Just started the process of replacing my inner primary bearing and race process. Will be upgrading my compensator to the SE version as well as using the Hayden tensioner. Thought I would post pics as I a go along to share with others in case they need to do this as well.

Started by draining the primary oil. While that was draining, removed seat and disconnected both positive and negative terminals of the battery. I decided to do the positive since I need to remove the battery wires to the started to get at the starter bold. Removed the front and rear passenger footboards and shifter arm. I think the longest time was spent on removing the front floorboard. Just getting access to the bolts difficult with the oil cooler in the way.

The drain plug looked real nasty and had a bunch of metal particles/shavings on it (Pic #1). I just changed oil this spring and did not have that much on it at the time. Certainly an indication of something going on.



Below is a pic after the primary cover was removed. The chain was so tight on the bottom I had to pry it up to get the tie-wrap around the tensioner. The top of the chain had a little slack in it if you pressed hard. I could not even get the bottom of the chain to move by pressing on it.



Here are some pics of the primary chain tensioner removed to show the wear on the pad. Does not look too bad after 35,000 miles on it.

Top view



Side view



Here is a pic after I removed the tensioner, lock nut, retaining clip, and plate from the main shaft (rear shaft- the one with the clutch on it). Note, while the nut to remove the clutch is a left hand thread, the lock nut is a normal or clock wise thread.



I did get the starter bolts out. Some tips are to remove the vent hose so you can get easy access to the front bolt. Remove the battery starter wires from the solenoid terminal to get easy access to the rear starter bolt. It took a while to even find that bolt. Thought it would be good to disconnect the positive wire from the battery as well, since I removed the starter wires.

Well that is as far as I got today. I will post more pics as I make more progress.

Hope this is helpful.

 

Good thread. Looking forward to seeing the finish product.

 

What makes you think there is something wrong with the inner primary bearing, other than the drain plug, which from the pics looks pretty normal being that u still have the stock compensator.

 

Fireaxxe:

I have been hearing noises from the primary, very similar to noises and behaviors as when the first IPB went out a couple of years ago. I am making some presumptions that it is the same thing again. Will know for sure once I get it torn down the rest of the way.

The amount of metal shavings and particles is more than normal, especially since the oil was changed out about a 1-2 months ago and less on the plug at that time.

 

 

Following, thanks for posting.

 

Just installed the SE compensator and new auto tensioner on my 07 RKC. Slightly less mileage than yours but wear on my tensioner looked about the same as yours. Primary chain was very tight when I pulled the cover!
I considered tearing it down further but the PO of my bike claimed "inner clutch" bearing was previously replaced.
Looking forward to your pics!

 

Now I'm starting to wonder if the old style compensators are shortening the life of the IPB also. Never thought about that, I know they go hard on starter clutches.

 

My opinion is the new style SE one that frets all the steel shavings off due to sorry steel, heat treating or ramp design would have more to do with a bearing problem.

 

I would suspect the automatic chain tensioner as being the cause for bearing failures. That thing keeps the chain way too tight. I'm just an observer, but bearing problems seem to have started when the moco eliminated the old style 'adjust it yourself' tensioner....