8-Ball-
Hello all, new to the forum and my first question here. Bike is a 2000 FLHTC fuel injected. While riding, bike shut down (like out of fuel) was able to restart right after. This happened a couple more times, then would not re-start. Trailered it home. When turning on the ignition switch I could hear fuel pump run for just a second (not long enough to build up pressure) and engine light came on for just as long (just a second while pump was running). While wiggling ign switch could get pump to come on once and a great while, and only for a split second. I looked down in the fuel tank and while pump would flicker and run, I could see fuel moving in the tank. I pulled the pump out and found a pin hole in the fuel line. I've replace the fuel lines and filter in the tank, but still have electrical problem. Pump only comes on for a brief second while rocking ign switch back and forth. I replaced ign switch believing it had shorted, still same problem. While cranking I left the spark plugs (as I have read in other posts that compression is needed for spark???) in bike and checked for spark- none... ANY IDEAS??? Will bad crank pos sensor cause fuel pump to not cycle and a no spark issue? Thanks for any help. Oh, should also mention, bike will belch out the exhaust when turning ign switch on and off, and swapped relays, checked all fuses etc...

 

Never mind.

 

Thanks Kenny, Just replaced the filter (its in the tank) when I replaced hose that had the pin hole in it. Parts come in a kit, two fuel hoses, clamps, and the fuel filter. Plugs are dry. Not getting power to my fuel pump. I'll check for voltage at coil and get back to ya.

 

Check your grounds. Also there is a Crank Position Sensor connector behind the right side cover that will sometimes work itself loose. It is the round, black connector under there. In front of the ECM. Twist it tight, and zip tie it so that it cannot come loose.

 

the early twin cams may also have the tip over sensor bracket crack or break.
this allows the 'tilt" switch to flop around on it's wires...causing the motor to die.
( there was a recall on this)

the switch is usually inboard of the right side cover.

DO NOT EVER crank the motor with the plug wires disconnected...this can blow the ignition system = $$$.
there is a correct way to do this, in which the plug bodies MUST be connected to the chassis ground ( held against the motor will do).

mike

 

Now that you have said that you replaced the fuel pump I would go through your work again looking for pinched wires, or a connector that is not tight.

 

Checked grounds and connection for crank sensor both tight. Also checked tip over sensor (which I believe is on the left side under side cover below frame) and that seems ok too. Thanks though for the suggestions!

 

Didn't replace pump, replaced filter and hoses. I can run jumper to pump and get it to work, but when I turn ign switch to "on" cant get power to pump.

 

Was getting pump to blip on for a millisecond here and there while flipping ign switch on and off and could get engine light to blip also (with pump) now I don't even get that....relay on left side (under seat) clicks. The start relay used to click, but now doesn't any more either.

 

Maybe your ignition switch is messed up. Check for continuity between pump and switch and switch to power. Something might have wiggled lose inside your ignition switch which is why it works sometimes when you wiggle it.