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I nixed the HD 12" Batwing Mini-Apes because the description in the catalog says that they extend above the fairing, but I like the way they look on your SG.

Do you have any head-on shots? I'd like to see how it looks from the front.

Thanks.

 

I've put these bars on two different bikes. The second one only took me three hours start to finish. Didn't swap one cable or extend one wire. All I did was reroute things. Absolutely 100% doable with nothing but the bars. As far as the mirriors go I can see out of mine just fine. Just have to dip your head to look under your arm, not a big deal to me.

 

Did you have to extend the left side switch harness (horn, high beam, etc.)?

 

You don't have to extend any wires just reroute.
I will post some more pics when I get home this evening

 

Nope. All you have to do is take the plugs off the brackets in front of the speakers and run them down the sides of the radio head unit. The TBW bundel is way long and it is left as it was. The brake line just needs to be broke loose at the master and angled down a bit. The clutch cable needs the zip tie cut from the right down tube and moved to the left and them run on the inside of the cross bracket. I used all stock wires, cables and lines. And like I said I've done this on two different bikes.

 

 

I've PMed this info to a couple guys already so maybe it will help/answer some questions.

1. For the bars check http://www.cyclepartsforless.com
They have FREE shipping over $100 so it may end up being cheaper that way. Also check www.lshd1.com and try to get the best price by checking them all...your welcome...LOL

2. Clutch cable routing:





Back through the fairing



Move it to the left down tube..gives you some length



Run it to the front of the fairing and on the inside of the support brackets inside the fairing.

3. The control plugs will move down from the support brackets and along the sides of the radio. It will be pretty obvious when you do it where they need to go.




4. Brake line...all you need to do is crack the banjo bolt loose and move it toward the bars. DON'T squeeze the brake leaver and just tighten it back up and you shouldn't need to do anything with the front brake.




5. TBW:

Used the stock one and I cut the green plug off...it's for heated grips (I was never gonna get so)

6. I internally wired my bars:

The clutch side goes through no problem.
Just fish a piece a string through with a small nut on the end and pull 'em through.

On the throttle side use the same nut trick. But on this side you will need to cut the sleeve off the switch wire bundel...(YOUR WELCOME TRUST ME!).

Then pull the TBW bundle but put on TWO pieces of string this time and drop the nut string attached the TBW bundle but attached the second string so as you pull the TBW it pulls the second string from the top (hope that makes sense) that way you have a string to pull the switch bundle.

It actually pretty easy once you read through this and look at it.

The plugs are a PITA and will take the most time cause they are small and I had to wear my reading glasses...LOL

If you have any more questions let me know.

 

I have them on my ultra

 

Your posts in this thread have been VERY informative, craigffb. In fact, I'm going to bookmark this thread for 'very near future' reference.

Thanks so much for taking the time. Hope you're available for follow-up questions.