I tried to reinstall my fairing cap today after repainting it. Well I found out I can't do it with the bars all the way to the left in the locked position. I scratched the fairing cap trying to squeeze it in the left side. I'm repainting it again and need to have my bars straight. I guess I'll make the ignition tool with 1/4 inch copper tubing as shown in the video.My question is do I unlock the bars with the tool then straighten the bars and remove tool so I can install the fairing cap.After installing fairing cap do I just reinsert tool and then turn bars back to the lock position and then turn tool to the left in the lock position.I'm just afraid of screwing things up when I move the wheel.I know this is a dumb question but why can't you just stick the switch back on to unlock the fork instead of having to make a tool? To be safe I think I will just go to the hardware store and get some 1/4 inch copper tubing. Thanks for your comments.

 

Me thinks you are over thinking it. I did it all w/o even making the tool. The tool (real or copper tubing) helps keep things aligned. Trying to move the switch w/o the tool and things in that hole can loose their alignment and you might have to fight with it in the end to get everything lined up and in the right place. You can take the tool out while in any position but you have to MAKE SURE you remember what position it was in when you removed it.

 

I just came across some different instructions and wonder if this would solve my problem on being able to move the bars after removing the switch without having a tool. It looks to me by turning the bars to the right and removing the switch the bars wouldn't be locked. Would thing things get out of alignment doing it this way if I turned the bars to center then back to the right after the fairing cap is installed ? See the following instructions. 1. Turn the ignition KEY to unlock and leave the key inserted in lock assembly 2. Move ignition assembly to the Off position to unlock the forks. LEAVE THE KEY IN LOCK 3. Turn the Handlebars all the way to the right 4. With the ignition key still in the lock turn the LOCK ASSEMBLY to Accessory 5. Standing on the left side of the bike look at the lower left underside of the LOCK ASSEMBLY. You will see a small button in the rear left corner 6. Use a small screwdriver to depress the button and hold while pushing down on the KEY and turning it 60 degrees in the counter clockwise direction.7. Lift and remove **** 8. Reverse to reinstall except there is no need to depress the button.

 

Dude the best ignition tool I found is $6 Craftsman screwdriver. It fits perfectly. From locked position turn screwdriver just one click clockwise then you can move bars. You can remove screwdriver after this do your work etc. When ready install igniton lock move bars back to left locked position insert screwdriver and turn counterclockwise one click and bars will be locked install ignition and done.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/11557359-post24.html

 

If someone took the time to write it I'm sure it worked for them. Which means it should work for you.

Here is a video below. Makes it look like you can remove ignition switch without a key and handlebars will be free until you turn them all the way to the left. Turning bars all the way left will lock them.

 

Yup, that's what I've done on several occasions.

 

Thanks for your response and I considered trying to use one but was afraid I might get things out of alignment because it doesn't look like the flat part of the blade would hit the right spot. Are you letting the screwdriver go all the way down until it bottoms out? When I looked at pictures of how the tool was made it shows the flat part starting from the bottom coming up 2 1/4 inches.The flat part of a screwdiver is not that long it's more like 1 1/4 inches. I do have screw drivers all different sizes can you give me an idea what you used. Thanks.

 

Yep the screwdriver will go down till bottoms out. Here's the link to Craftsman one u may already have it.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-5...ype=SKIP_LEVEL

 

I saw the pictures of the screwdrivers you enclosed and appears I have that 6 inch screwdriver in my set. Are you letting it go all the way down until it bottoms out and then turning it one click clockwise to unlock the bars? I'm asking because I just can't tell if the flat part of the blade is going to be in the right spot. I thought maybe instead of bottoming out you just went part way down to make it hit the right spot. If I can just drop it in until it hits bottom and then turn one click to release the bars that would be great. I'm not going to do it tonight but if you could please confirm it would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

The only markings on my screwdriver other than craftsman is 1/4 made in the USA and some numbers on the other side.The blade measures exactly 6 inches not including the handle. Think I have the right one? Thanks again.