Installing a Garage Door Transmitter in a 2014 Ultra Limited
#42
09-17-2013, 12:45 PM
Less wiring & you can add multiple transmitters to one receiver and it's half the price of the HD one. I bought mine locally for $50.00 plus $25.00 for each additional transmitter. I have 3 transmitters, one on the bike, one in my truck & one in the wifes SUV.
#43
09-17-2013, 01:26 PM
Cruiser
Especially since there are so many more aux switch locations on '14's. I think the answer lies in the fact that many don't have any understanding of switches, wiring, and...well...electrical stuff. They want something plug and play. You can't even say the "high beam" kit is neccesary for riders w/o fairings, as several guys on this forum installed a Harley odometer button onto the side of their dash on tank. Here is a very well done instructional thread w/pics on how a guy used the water proof Harley odometer reset button/switch to hide a button in his inner fairing:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...with-pics.html
Post #82 shows a pic of it being done on a tank dash. Several posts in the thread show it being installed in other places on inner fairing, using an unused auxiliary spot on a batwing dash, using a side cover, the side of a bag lid, and using an existing hole in frame right under the seat that is easy to get to.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...with-pics.html
Post #82 shows a pic of it being done on a tank dash. Several posts in the thread show it being installed in other places on inner fairing, using an unused auxiliary spot on a batwing dash, using a side cover, the side of a bag lid, and using an existing hole in frame right under the seat that is easy to get to.
#44
09-17-2013, 02:40 PM
Elite HDF Member
I do have an understanding of the 2014 model. It uses CANbus. As such, the wiring for the switches is different. How the signal gets from one point to another has been changed, as well as where the signals can go. That does not change the fact that a signal has to get from one place to another. If your bike is equipped with PTT, you can still wire a garage door opener straight to the wiring inside the fairing. You are worrying about plug&play stuff with connectors. If you don't have the ability to work with wiring and understand it, that's fine. I was trying to help those that do.
??? It's possible neither one of us knows what you are talking about here.
The dash has a row (or bank) of holes where switches either are or can be mounted. The unused holes have covers. You can mount any damn thing you want in those locations. There may be wiring supplied, there may be wiring local you can tap into, you may have to run a power wire from the battery to power what you add, and you may chose to supply external power (like a garage door opener would have). Whichever the case may be you can mount any switch you want there.
As far as a battery goes, garage door batteries typically last about 5 years, so you won't have to remove the fairing much to replace the battery. Maybe once? Your concern about removing the batwing tells me you have likely never removed one? Or maybe have done it once? The batwing is extrememly easy to remove and everyone I've talked to so far says it is even easier on the '14's. No biggie man.
Now comes by far the most valid concern: Drilling a hole. OK, I get that. Especially for someone that is not very handy. I'm not telling you to drill a hole, and I totally understand being weary of doing so. Using the hole under the seat does not mean drilling a hole. Using the dash panel involves drilling a hole in a tiny piece of plastic that can't cost more than $2 to replace if you change your mind or screw up. Or you could get a more capable buddy to help.
Again, I don't care what you do or how you do it. I was trying to help. My input could save money, effort, time, and even raise the coolness factor of your ride. Give you something custom to brag about on bike night and/or with your buddies. I definitely didn't need you to suggest I don't know what is going on. It is clear by the posts in this thread that nobody actually knows what is going on. At least with respect to installing a garage door opener on a 2014.
My posts are to help and several other people have weighed in with the same goal as myself. I sincerily hope my presence in this thread helps out fellow forum members. To those that don't appreciate my input? Best of luck to you, so sorry to bother you, and ride safe...
The dash has a row (or bank) of holes where switches either are or can be mounted. The unused holes have covers. You can mount any damn thing you want in those locations. There may be wiring supplied, there may be wiring local you can tap into, you may have to run a power wire from the battery to power what you add, and you may chose to supply external power (like a garage door opener would have). Whichever the case may be you can mount any switch you want there.
Now comes by far the most valid concern: Drilling a hole. OK, I get that. Especially for someone that is not very handy. I'm not telling you to drill a hole, and I totally understand being weary of doing so. Using the hole under the seat does not mean drilling a hole. Using the dash panel involves drilling a hole in a tiny piece of plastic that can't cost more than $2 to replace if you change your mind or screw up. Or you could get a more capable buddy to help.
Again, I don't care what you do or how you do it. I was trying to help. My input could save money, effort, time, and even raise the coolness factor of your ride. Give you something custom to brag about on bike night and/or with your buddies. I definitely didn't need you to suggest I don't know what is going on. It is clear by the posts in this thread that nobody actually knows what is going on. At least with respect to installing a garage door opener on a 2014.
My posts are to help and several other people have weighed in with the same goal as myself. I sincerily hope my presence in this thread helps out fellow forum members. To those that don't appreciate my input? Best of luck to you, so sorry to bother you, and ride safe...
#45
09-17-2013, 03:04 PM
Cruiser
I do have an understanding of the 2014 model. It uses CANbus. As such, the wiring for the switches is different. How the signal gets from one point to another has been changed, as well as where the signals can go. That does not change the fact that a signal has to get from one place to another. If your bike is equipped with PTT, you can still wire a garage door opener straight to the wiring inside the fairing. You are worrying about plug&play stuff with connectors. If you don't have the ability to work with wiring and understand it, that's fine. I was trying to help those that do.
??? It's possible neither one of us knows what you are talking about here.
The dash has a row (or bank) of holes where switches either are or can be mounted. The unused holes have covers. You can mount any damn thing you want in those locations. There may be wiring supplied, there may be wiring local you can tap into, you may have to run a power wire from the battery to power what you add, and you may chose to supply external power (like a garage door opener would have). Whichever the case may be you can mount any switch you want there.
As far as a battery goes, garage door batteries typically last about 5 years, so you won't have to remove the fairing much to replace the battery. Maybe once? Your concern about removing the batwing tells me you have likely never removed one? Or maybe have done it once? The batwing is extrememly easy to remove and everyone I've talked to so far says it is even easier on the '14's. No biggie man.
Now comes by far the most valid concern: Drilling a hole. OK, I get that. Especially for someone that is not very handy. I'm not telling you to drill a hole, and I totally understand being weary of doing so. Using the hole under the seat does not mean drilling a hole. Using the dash panel involves drilling a hole in a tiny piece of plastic that can't cost more than $2 to replace if you change your mind or screw up. Or you could get a more capable buddy to help.
Again, I don't care what you do or how you do it. I was trying to help. My input could save money, effort, time, and even raise the coolness factor of your ride. Give you something custom to brag about on bike night and/or with your buddies. I definitely didn't need you to suggest I don't know what is going on. It is clear by the posts in this thread that nobody actually knows what is going on. At least with respect to installing a garage door opener on a 2014.
My posts are to help and several other people have weighed in with the same goal as myself. I sincerily hope my presence in this thread helps out fellow forum members. To those that don't appreciate my input? Best of luck to you, so sorry to bother you, and ride safe...
??? It's possible neither one of us knows what you are talking about here.
The dash has a row (or bank) of holes where switches either are or can be mounted. The unused holes have covers. You can mount any damn thing you want in those locations. There may be wiring supplied, there may be wiring local you can tap into, you may have to run a power wire from the battery to power what you add, and you may chose to supply external power (like a garage door opener would have). Whichever the case may be you can mount any switch you want there.
As far as a battery goes, garage door batteries typically last about 5 years, so you won't have to remove the fairing much to replace the battery. Maybe once? Your concern about removing the batwing tells me you have likely never removed one? Or maybe have done it once? The batwing is extrememly easy to remove and everyone I've talked to so far says it is even easier on the '14's. No biggie man.
Now comes by far the most valid concern: Drilling a hole. OK, I get that. Especially for someone that is not very handy. I'm not telling you to drill a hole, and I totally understand being weary of doing so. Using the hole under the seat does not mean drilling a hole. Using the dash panel involves drilling a hole in a tiny piece of plastic that can't cost more than $2 to replace if you change your mind or screw up. Or you could get a more capable buddy to help.
Again, I don't care what you do or how you do it. I was trying to help. My input could save money, effort, time, and even raise the coolness factor of your ride. Give you something custom to brag about on bike night and/or with your buddies. I definitely didn't need you to suggest I don't know what is going on. It is clear by the posts in this thread that nobody actually knows what is going on. At least with respect to installing a garage door opener on a 2014.
My posts are to help and several other people have weighed in with the same goal as myself. I sincerily hope my presence in this thread helps out fellow forum members. To those that don't appreciate my input? Best of luck to you, so sorry to bother you, and ride safe...
#46
09-17-2013, 04:47 PM
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Newark, TX
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Thank You. that is what I was looking for.
1. Mount the transmitter in the front fairing where either the equalizer or CB would go with circuitry facing up. You can also mount it so the circuitry is facing forward which may give you better range.
2. The white wire from the transmitter is spliced to the Blue/White wire going to the high-beem.
3. Now you'll need to remove the gas tank which is easier than it sounds. Remove the 50AMP main breaker. There are two bolts under your seat and two bolts under the front of the tank (covered by rubber caps), remove all 4 bolts. There is a compression fitting under the left side of the tank. The ring slides up and the hose is pulled down. A few drops of gas may come out but nothing a little rag wont catch. There is one cable with a quick disconnect and two gas oversplill lines you'll just pull out.
4. Take the tank off and set it aside on a blanket. Under the tank is where all the wires are ran. Take the cap off and you'll see all the wires that are ran from the fairing to the seat. This is where you'll put the wires from the transmitter.
5. You'll need some either 18 or 20 AWG wire to run the BLACK wire from the transmitter to under your seat. This is ground so if you want you can also just run it to a ground in the fairing. Since I had to run power to the accesory cable I ran the ground with it.
6. The next two wires from the transmitter are the Black wire and the Orange/White wires. Run them from the fairing to the cable try under the tank and to under the seat.
7. Take the accesory power cable (69200722) and connect it to the Accessory Connector under the left side cover. (I'll try to attach a picture)
8. Run the other end of that cable through a hole under the left side cover to the battery compartment and secure it in that area with a zip tie.
9. Splice the Black wire on the Acc cable to the Black wire on the transmitter.
10. Splice the Violet/Blue wire on the Acc cable to the Orange/White wire on the transmitter.
11. Make sure all splices are weather proof.
12. Put the tank back on, tighen all 4 bolts and connect the connector you pulled apart in step 3. Re-run the fuel overspill lines through the same path you removed them from. Connect the fuel line on the left side.
13. Put the 50AMP breaker back and and follow the instructions for pairing the transmitter and receiver.
Let me know how it goes.
2. The white wire from the transmitter is spliced to the Blue/White wire going to the high-beem.
3. Now you'll need to remove the gas tank which is easier than it sounds. Remove the 50AMP main breaker. There are two bolts under your seat and two bolts under the front of the tank (covered by rubber caps), remove all 4 bolts. There is a compression fitting under the left side of the tank. The ring slides up and the hose is pulled down. A few drops of gas may come out but nothing a little rag wont catch. There is one cable with a quick disconnect and two gas oversplill lines you'll just pull out.
4. Take the tank off and set it aside on a blanket. Under the tank is where all the wires are ran. Take the cap off and you'll see all the wires that are ran from the fairing to the seat. This is where you'll put the wires from the transmitter.
5. You'll need some either 18 or 20 AWG wire to run the BLACK wire from the transmitter to under your seat. This is ground so if you want you can also just run it to a ground in the fairing. Since I had to run power to the accesory cable I ran the ground with it.
6. The next two wires from the transmitter are the Black wire and the Orange/White wires. Run them from the fairing to the cable try under the tank and to under the seat.
7. Take the accesory power cable (69200722) and connect it to the Accessory Connector under the left side cover. (I'll try to attach a picture)
8. Run the other end of that cable through a hole under the left side cover to the battery compartment and secure it in that area with a zip tie.
9. Splice the Black wire on the Acc cable to the Black wire on the transmitter.
10. Splice the Violet/Blue wire on the Acc cable to the Orange/White wire on the transmitter.
11. Make sure all splices are weather proof.
12. Put the tank back on, tighen all 4 bolts and connect the connector you pulled apart in step 3. Re-run the fuel overspill lines through the same path you removed them from. Connect the fuel line on the left side.
13. Put the 50AMP breaker back and and follow the instructions for pairing the transmitter and receiver.
Let me know how it goes.
#47
09-17-2013, 06:30 PM
Cruiser
So the directions say "If the newly installed transmitter has both a white wire and a yellow wire, splice those wires to the corresponding headlamp wires (white to white, yellow to yellow)". In the 2014 the high beam is Blue/White so you want to splice the White wire to it. I believe the low beam is Blue/Yellow so I would think the Yellow wire from the transmitter would go there. If you tried that with no luck, I'm not sure. I tried to scan the directions and attach them but the PDF was too large. I'm sure your local dealer could get them.
#48
09-18-2013, 04:01 PM
#49
09-18-2013, 04:52 PM
Elite HDF Member
So the directions say "If the newly installed transmitter has both a white wire and a yellow wire, splice those wires to the corresponding headlamp wires (white to white, yellow to yellow)". In the 2014 the high beam is Blue/White so you want to splice the White wire to it. I believe the low beam is Blue/Yellow so I would think the Yellow wire from the transmitter would go there. If you tried that with no luck, I'm not sure. I tried to scan the directions and attach them but the PDF was too large. I'm sure your local dealer could get them.
#50
10-02-2013, 09:24 PM
Tourer
For those of you who aren't clear on how to wire your garage door transmitter to your 14..
The transmitter I have has four wires to it. Orange/white, black, white, and yellow. You don't need to buy the Harley adapter plug others have mentioned here or go through all the trouble of running the wires under the tank. Everything can be done in the fairing.
First I stripped some of the black sheathing from the transmitter wires so I could run the different color wires different directions and used two sided tape to fasten the transmitter with the circuit side up to the top of the bracket that holds the stereo. Picture 4
Picture 1... I stripped some of the sheathing off of the wires that go to the cig lighter at a junction point
Pic 2..a different farther away picture of the two wires I used from the cig lighter/power port for power and ground so you can see in the fairing where they are.
I hooked the orange/white/power wire on the transmitter to the purple/power wire of the cig lighter.
Then the black/ground wire of the transmitter to the black/ground wire of the cig lighter.
Picture 3 is of the headlight plug. If you look at the wires going to the headlight there is a blue/white wire. Hook the white wire on the transmitter to this wire
Then find the blue/yellow wire right beside it and hook the yellow wire from the transmitter to it...
It is just that easy and the opener will work when you go to high beam then back to low like on the older bikes or if you just press down to the passing flasher that flashes the high beam...
The transmitter I have has four wires to it. Orange/white, black, white, and yellow. You don't need to buy the Harley adapter plug others have mentioned here or go through all the trouble of running the wires under the tank. Everything can be done in the fairing.
First I stripped some of the black sheathing from the transmitter wires so I could run the different color wires different directions and used two sided tape to fasten the transmitter with the circuit side up to the top of the bracket that holds the stereo. Picture 4
Picture 1... I stripped some of the sheathing off of the wires that go to the cig lighter at a junction point
Pic 2..a different farther away picture of the two wires I used from the cig lighter/power port for power and ground so you can see in the fairing where they are.
I hooked the orange/white/power wire on the transmitter to the purple/power wire of the cig lighter.
Then the black/ground wire of the transmitter to the black/ground wire of the cig lighter.
Picture 3 is of the headlight plug. If you look at the wires going to the headlight there is a blue/white wire. Hook the white wire on the transmitter to this wire
Then find the blue/yellow wire right beside it and hook the yellow wire from the transmitter to it...
It is just that easy and the opener will work when you go to high beam then back to low like on the older bikes or if you just press down to the passing flasher that flashes the high beam...