Hi all,
Been having problem with carpal tunnel on my left hand/arm for a year or so. It is mostly traffic jam induced coming from holding clutch. Getting progressively worse lately, especially after a ride in traffic. I would get up in the middle of the night with extreme burning sensation and had to take painkiller just to be able to go back to sleep or function normally.

I have been trying to reduce clutch effort by re routing clutch cable with less bend, change to 'High Efficiency' clutch cable, and switching clutch spring from 'pink' to stock 103" spring. The effort is so much less now but still giving strain to my wrist and fingers when constantly holding clutch on traffic. Still getting the carpal extreme pain at night or early morning after a ride.

Now I guess I will need something that will almost totally eliminate the clutch effort or better yet, elliminate the need to pull the clutch altogether.
I was thinking about AIM VPC 68T (the most effort reduction model) or EFM auto clutch. One is $225 and one other is $1.300.

I have no experience with both, but from what I read both are great product, I need feedback from users that have been using either one.
- what kind of effort reduction do you guys see with 68T VPC mated with stock 103" spring and Barnett cable? Still have some pull effort or feels like one finger pull that you can hold on to without effort at all all day long?
- EFM autoclutch is $1.300, but if VPC does not elliminate my pain, I will fork out the cash and pay for it EFM. Does anyone have experience with EFM Autoclutch?

Naturally if it works I tend to go to the cheaper route, but my main prority is to help me with my carpal tunnel syndrome whatever the cost is so I can go back to riding normally, and no, please do not suggest me to switch to Jap bike with auto, please also do not tell me to quit crying and train my hand, I am 5'9" with mass, so I am fine in that department folks LOL!!

Thanks a lot for the advices folks!!

 

I run the AIM VPC on my 06 Street Bob with an SE 120R in it. While the VPC does provide more clamping force at RPM, it is also harder to pull when shifting at rpm so it won't do your carpal tunnel any favors other than compensating for lighter spring pressure when holding the clutch at stop lights (rpm driven clamping force would compensate for lack of spring pressure to keep clutch from slipping).

Have you considered a hydraulic clutch set up? There are a few out there and with reduced reach levers you might be able to withstand the hydraulic pressure better than the spring pressure??

 

Thanks for the advice,
make sense on the VPC, even the website says so, harder pull at RPM.
How much would a complete hydraulic conversion cost? This make sense, but I have been hearing complaints with hydraulic loosing pressure when used in extreme heat and extreme traffic that I constantly encounter here.

Actually if EFM works as advertised, this might be the best thing after sliced bread for me.... Any experience?

Thanks.

 

My suggestion is get the carpal tunnel fixed. Had both hands done and no more numb hands while riding or sleeping.

 

I, too, had both wrists fixed (not at the same time as there are some things your wife won't do) and fixed all my problems.

 

I urge you to find someone that has a Barnett Scorpion clutch with the low tension springs. I have one in my bike and I have never found a smoother, easier clutch to pull. It is more than adequate for a bulit engine, also. Good luck!

 

I only get the severe carpal tunnel symptom after I ride the 2010 FLHTP, I was fine with the other bike (1997 fatboy+barnett HE + easy boy+ 14" ape) would get slight burn/tingle after a long day in the saddle but nowhere as bad.
I am planning to get this CPS fixed but I also need to fix the bike so it doesn't encourage the pain even after the CPS got fixed, I read on the net that even after you get CPS fixed you still need to elliminate the cause because it can get back and bite you in the 4$$ again. The city traffic here is just plain suck and really trigger CPS to anyone with potential to get it.

Interested to get any suggestion to elliminate (elliminate not reduce) clutch effort in my bike, 1 finger pull effort would be what I am aiming for. Barnett scorpion and light spring seems like a good idea, but I am very keen to hear people's opinion about the EFM auto clutch, if it does work as advertised, it will be dandy. It is a serious grand to drop on a clutch, being outside the US, I pay shipping cost + 45% tax on top of total cost, US dollar is really strong right now making it very very expensive, so i need to make sure it does work, if it does work, I don't mind dropping the dough.

Thank you very much to the great folks here!!

 

Saw a website for clutch wiz just now. It looks promising.... Anyone have experience with it? The working principle is the same as AIM VPC VP68T by moving the clutch spring pressure point to the innermost side giving much more leverage than stock ring. The testimonial claims one finger clutch pull effort.
It seems that the lever effort on idle will be the same to VP68T but it will retain light clutch pull on higher RPM unlike VPC stuff that will get heavier as the RPM increase. Anyone with experience and could give a pointer?

Thanks in advance!!

 

I try the MRC Clutch Effort Reduction Kit (www.phaedruscycle.com/). It replaces the OEM clutch ramp. I'm running a Scorpion clutch with a combo of green and red springs to hold a 120R. Clutch is as easy as stock pull.

 

Hydraulic is probably not going to be easier to pull unfortunately. Many benefits to running one but easier pull usually isn't one of them.

Just to test go sit on one of the new 2014 touring bikes.

lp