I read the shop manual for my 2014 flhxs and looks pretty easy to do the 1000 service.
Got a couple of questions
1. is this laundry list of parts correct? For first time I will buy all hd parts and fluids.
- oil filter
- oil
- three o rings for the three sump bolts
- derby gasket
- paste teflon sealer for sump bolt threads
- oil filter wrech with opening for crank sensor

I am going with formula + oil in the primary just from what I have read as far as shifting smoothness, syn 3 for engine and tranny.

Where can I get the hd tool that allows for torquing the rear axel without taking the muffler off?

Just curious, anyone with experience have seen that the 'critical bolts listed' needed to be tightened at 1000 miles?
tks Ferd

 

Looks you got it covered. Never used the teflon paste though. I would rethink your oil choices for the tranny and crank case but that is entirely up to you. I just remove the muffler to get at the axle nut. A good rubber strap wrench will work for the oil filter. The critical fastener part shouldn't be skipped either, matter if fact don't skip anything if you don't want any warranty claim issues.

 

do you use any thread sealer or does the o-ring do the job?

 

I personally use thread sealer.

The recommended O-rings are too big, and squish outward when tightening the bolts. I use a smaller o-ring, and in fact buy them from Home Depot. Get the #207 O-rings from Home Depot at a fraction of the cost (come 10 per pack at about $3 per), they work perfect and fit nice and tight on the bolt. Been using them for 15K miles now, and not a single issue.

 

Good for you on getting the service manual...lots of good info that should answer a bunch of questions.

As mentioned above, forget about the teflon. A good clean surface and slightly oiled o-ring should seal just fine. Just don't smash, twist, or pinch the ring...it doesn't take much to snug the drain plugs in place. Be careful with aftermarket o-rings - some can't handle the heat and will deteriorate then leak.

DO make sure you have the correct size derby cover bit (assuming you have the torx-type). A slightly under-sized bit will damage the bolts making them very difficult to remove. And make sure you remove every derby cover bolt before you drain the primary...nothing as irritating as draining the primary only to find out you can't refill it.

Type or brand of fluids your particular bike likes will take some time to learn. Not every bike loves Syn, Mobil, or whatever...it may take some experimenting.

Hope that helps!

 

No thread sealer, just the HD o-ring. If the o-ring squishes out then you are over tightening.

 

No thread sealer, just torque everything properly. Most people tend to over-torque the derby cover. Don't do that, and use a bit of anti-seize on those threads.

 

Sound like you got everything covered.
I would go with a heavier gear oil, rather than 20/50.
I think that is a tad light for gear oil.

I went with these for all my drain plugs.
http://www.drainplugmagnets.com/harleydavidson.php
They don't need paste or O-rings that I've seen yet, or that wear out anyway.

 

Got ripped off today on my 1000 mile service on my 2013 road glide ultra. Had planned to do it myself but jumped on my bike at 10:00 pm last night and went to Beaumont where my mother had been taken to the hospital with a broken hip. I was at 1086 miles when I left and would have been at 1200 before I got back home so I went to cowboy harley in Beaumont which was a couple of blocks from the hospital. Paid $335 for the service and when they gave me my bike back the technician had left his invoice in the bike with hours and supplies equaling $97. He realized he had left it in the bike and came to get it. I said I noticed he had written his work up as costing $97 and told him they had charged me $335. He smirked and said he didn't know why and walked off. I will never have the dealer do service again. That's pure bull ****!

 

Check your derby cover bolts, but they are most likely T27, do not make the mistake of using a T25. Recommend using a torque wrench on the derby bolts going back in, as they are very easy to over tighten and strip. You also will not need a new derby cover gasket. That one is rubber and is good for several removals.

Here's a link to another forum thread with a good video that may help.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-r...stuctions.html