I would like to make a few suggestions if I may. It will pull it, not legally and definitely not safe at 70mph. You can do a few things to likely improve the durability. If it is automatic transmission, change to synthetic fluid and have a towing shift kit put in the transmission. If it doesn't already have a temp gauge on the transmission have one installed. Need to stay below 300 degrees. It will probably run 220 to 240. If you can't keep it in that area put an additional trans cooler on. I would do that anyway if it were mine. Watch the trans temp when engine braking down long grades and backing up as it can get hot. You may want to consider an aftermarket transmission and torque converter with lock up clutch and fluid pressure management system. It is quite pricey though.

If the truck isn't level while hooked up may consider airbags. Probably won't need them on the 350. Level the trailer also. If you pull it nose high the back tires will come apart pretty soon. Also when backing in and turning sharp on asphalt it will try to tear the tires and rims up. I wet my driveway and road down when I back in at my home. If not will have permanant black marks on the road and driveway. If the tires are Chinese made or over 5 years old you will be well advised to change them. I use Firestones myself, but any good brand other than the chinese tires will probably work.

Change the rear end oil to a heavy weight synthetic lube. Service the Coolant system and make sure fan clutch is working right. If not it will heat up on long pulls. Air the trailer tires up to the max pressure on the sidewall. Probably 80#'s with E range tires. Air the rear truck duals up to what ever manufacturer says for fully loaded. My dually with E range was 70#'s. I think you have 3 axles on the trailer, make sure you have a very good electric brake controller made for 3 axles. I like this one http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Contro...sha/90195.html. Adjust the trailer brakes and check wheel bearing seals for leaks. If you go to the mountains pick roads that don't have long grades. Don't lug the engine to below 1400 rpms as the egt will go up, but you probably already know that. Interstates are usually pretty safe in the Smokies. The local roads in Mountains can be very difficult. Don't go site seeing in mountainous areas with the camper hooked. Back roads are fine in flat country. I believe I would do several short less than 100 mile trips before I went off very far to work out all the bugs and learn how all the systems work. I don't know about your home state but La. has some excellent state parks that are very reasonable. There is always something broke or needing fixed on a camper. It generally costs me over $2000 each time I buy a new camper. Did buy a used one once that belonged to a camping buddy and it was the best one I ever owned. Didn't spend a penny to get it going. He is the one that bought the 40 ft. 19000# 4 slide monster and pulled it with a truck nearly identical to yours. Went through 3 transmissions in a year and bought a converted to single axle 1998 Red Volvo truck with sleeper. Went all over the country with it. Only paid $20000 for it with less than 400,000 miles on it. Used this rig for 3 years and sold it for more than he had in it.

As far as camping in the front yard that is good practice. Also load and unload your bike. Going up isn't too bad, but coming down with the front wheel sliding and picking up speed tends to bother me. I put the sucker in gear now and use the clutch and front brake. Also jacking the front end of camper up some helps too or backing up to an incline. I have a rubber nonskid coating on door and floor. I am set up to haul 2 Limited's so you are near the edge of the ramp and I don't need that 900# sucker in my lap.

Wish you luck and above all be safe and enjoy. Don't get in any hurry as that is when they will bite you. My top speed is 65 with 37 foot 1 super slide and sleeps 8 easily. Has 3 full size queen beds. The camper is a 2012 also and had more things wrong than any other camper ever owned. I pull with 2012 Dodge 2500 crew cab. Have had 6 in it for several weeks at a time.

 

Second that have Fuzion 35 Footer tow F350 Dually
Best toy hauler so far

 

Brother your tow rig is fine for what your towing. Its not safe and I wouldn't do it but I've seen plenty of 2500 single rear trucks towing toy haulers your size. Getting advice about a tow rig on a Harley forum is what it is, head over to the diesel forums and you'll hear a different story form the guys that just deal with your combo. You have DRW and a diesel, your fine. Most don't haul with all there fresh or gray tanks full anyways.

 

Great advice.

 

Your tow rig is fine. Someone is toying with ficticious GVRW. The only thing you need to worry about is that your tag is rated for truck + hauler. You are pulling a recreational camper, not wound up in interstate commerce and CDL. Technically you could pull it with a Yota...because you are recreational.

 

Another thing that helped me is I had some friends that camped and we joint camped together several times and they helped a bunch when it came to campground knowledge and camper knowledge especially the sewer system as they will bite you real quick and it don't wash off real easy. You can also go to the RV forums and they will have lots of information on how to manage the sanitation system and freshwater systems. It isn't the same as home. Look up leveling, chocking, cleaning sidewalls and rubber roof, checking caulking and recaulking, I don't know what year your unit is but I would have a rv repair shop give the roof and all caulking checked asap. Water leaks can ruin your day and camper. Forest River recommends checking every 90 days. Lots of info on all this out there. I don't always practice what I preach, but I have regretted it on couple of occasions. One the rubber roof and underlayment had to be replaced from a leak. Only $3500. Bathroom floor had to be replaced on another Sewer vent in roof leaked rain water and drained down the pipe and rotted floor under cabinet and tub shower. $400 material and 4 days in purgatory doing it myself. Rain and sun is your enemy on the camper maintenance. The roof vent covers unless they have a cover over them will rot and crack in only 5 or 6 years. Luckily they are cheap and easily replaced. I am not even trying to discourage you. I wish I had avoided these problems.

 

Thank you! Thank you!
To all that have given their time and effort to help me out. I will try to respond to the questions/comments in no particular order. ( just as they come to me!)
I do apologize for not being to remember your names or butchering the spelling...
Ke5be... I think.. On my 97 I have an triple gauge pod. Showing EGT, trans temp and boost ( a fun one... It actually shows dollars flowing out of the exhaust pipe.) I also have the biggest Haden tranny cooler made, and I have a magna dyne inline filter with magnets in it to help not recirculate minute metal particles. That the factory pan filter would miss. I have a chip in the computer especially for towing with a real tight second gear lockup. I also have the lockup torque converter. I also have the rear end with 4.10 gears someone else asked that.
Yes the tranny is the weak link in the Ford trucks. I have weighed my truck and it weighs 7500 lbs with a half tank of fuel in each tank. I also have a free flowing air filter and no mufflers on the truck with 3.5 in exhaust.

The idea of the med duty tractor (volvo) was a good one but not practical for me as I usually travel with more than one companion.
The synthetic fluid idea was a good one. I do know that synthetics handle the heat better..

Once again thank you!

 

I got the deal of the century!!! On this thing. I couldn't have bought one half the size ...new for the money I paid for this one!

 

Well not as worried about you as I was. You got it going on with the mods you have done to that rig. Just watch that Trans temp and you should be ok. Have fun and watch those down grades as you know the diesels don't engine brake very well. Who knows may run up on you some days.

 

Used is ok but toy haulers have come a long way in the last few years. I have a travel trailer (bumper pull) but I do agree that the 5th wheels are much easier to tow. The issue with them is it basically takes up all of your bed space. I usually put things in the bed that would not be possible if I was towing a 5th. Also toy haulers can be tax deductible as a second home if certain requirements are met. I think that includes a separate bedroom and a kitchen. I have a ford 1 ton diesel that tows my 8,000 lb hauler with no problem. Started with an f150 and it was the tail wagging the dog.
Get good wheel clocks!
Mine is a mvp vortex and we love it.