While I wait for my 14 RK to be delivered, reading the Owners Manual and have a few questions.

The Touring Owners Manual says when changing the Primary, 38oz wet and 45 oz dry for the lube. What is the difference? When you remove the plug, doesn't all the lube drain out? I assume this would be dry. Nice you have to take a partial 13 oz out of a second quart bottle. Why not just sell F+ in 45oz bottles!

Engine Oil capacity says 4.0 qt. I assume that's dry. Oil change procedure says to initially add 3.0 qt then add as needed to get HOT reading on the dipstick. Seems like a PITA.

Same stuff for the transmission, Capacity chart shows 1.0 qt, but trans oil change procedure says 28oz then add till full.

My 2007 Dyna is nice, even numbers of Qts for everything.

Figure 26 on page 81 is messed up, guess the proofreader was on vacation.

 

Dry means after a rebuild and tear down, this isn't rocket science. Just don't over fill. 4 quarts in the crank case is too much. Congrats on the bike.

 

4 qt. (wet) is with the filter, put 3 qt., start the engine for 2 minutes (no danger), wait 5 minutes and adjust the level.

 

I've always assumed wet means there is still x amount of ounces in the engine/transmission even after you drain it. Oil attaches itself and unless it's "flushed" out somehow, it will be "wet". I may be entirely wrong on this, but again I assumed it.

Congrats on the new scoot by the way!!

 

I use formula plus For the primary and the transmission, buy a few quarts and fill them
according wet ounces or a little less then top off to full mark.

 

I suspect that the reason that the lube doesn't come in 45 fluid ounce bottles is because over the years, fluid contains have become pretty much standardized in capacity. Buying two bottles of lube doesn't bother me, I know I'll use it all up during the next change.

 

If you put more than a quart in the primary… your doing something wrong. Unless… as stated above, you just completed a complete rebuild. Then… maybe. As for the engine, start with three quarts and go from there. I usually end up using about 3 3/4 for the engine.

 

What KCFLHRC said...

 

OP, Kudos for cracking open the manual- really, many don't bother until after they've made an error.

the primary wet/dry is due to the clutch, it will hold lube unless disassembled.
when i do my primary fluid change, I will drain, then use a zip tie to hold the clutch lever, this allows the plates and disks to separate and held fluid to drain ( some of it). I may even start the motor and let centrifugal force help to drive it out

this is not an issue with the tranny or motor oil. both of which can drain more freely, esp when hot.

all levels should be checked visually, capacities are nominal and overfilling can cause problems.

mike

 

Plus, anytime you change the oil, the engine should have been up to operating temperature.