[quote=09 yellowbird;12618015]When it comes to my bike and my money, I ask A LOT of questions haha

 

I've had good results on my StreetGlide with TTS MasterTune. I had it professionally dyno tuned since the engine is now 124". One thing I love about TTS is the ability to read and erase DTC's.

 

laptop piece of this is incorrect. One of the many pieces of software that come with the device is called "Flight Recorder" where as you plug the device into you computer, set it in FR mode, then plug it into the bike and go ride gathering data in different throttle positions and rpms. Then you take that data combine it with the previous tune file to make a new map and flash to bike. rinse and repeat process until your VEs are changing less than 5%.

IMO this is the best tuner available on the market. Is it the easiest to use, no sir but it's pretty darn close. Lots of people in the TTS section to help you along the way if you are a DIYer.

As for the headpipe, I'm not a V&H fan but will say what's the point of changing the headpipe unless you're having issues with it. The V&H, just like the FullSac are both free-flowing headpipes.

 

CANBUS is even FASTER!

 

Best piece of advice you've gotten so far. If you're not going to do the tuning, go with what your trusted tuner recommends.

 

As usual Ultra, always there with lots of info and input. Thanks. The only reason Im thinking about ditching the V&H for the Fullsac is the O2 bungs. Ive heard the V&H doesnt get the sensor in the flow properly, so youre not getting very accurate readings. Still dont know how true that is. Doing research as usual

 

Shows how long it's been since I've done a VTune... Do you know if this is just a Mastertune 2 feature or will the original Mastertune box do this? How much memory does it have for data collection?

 

black or blue box?

 

my suggestion would be pick up the TTS first, get it married to the bike (even if you're not going to tune yourself), plug it in and do a run to capture generic o2 data for about 20 minutes after it's warmed up to operating temps. That chart will show clear as day whether or not your o2 sensors are reading correctly. Then if needed you can go through the expense of the head pipe swap or have those bungs removed and proper bungs welded in.

I know V&H had some issues in the past with head pipes and poor o2 sensor placement and depth but to my knowledge and reading, that has been corrected.

 

Black.