2012 Street Glide Clutch Problems-Help
#1
2012 Street Glide Clutch Problems-Help
I'm having a problem with my clutch adjustment. I know it sounds stupid, but hear me out. The clutch grabs as soon as you lift if off the grip.
I have 14" apes on the bike. magnum black cables. I did not have this problem prior to the incident with Amtrak. HD put the bike together which included a new clutch cable.
It all started when i had to replace the clutch because the plates went bad...? after the install of the new clutch, is when we couldn't the adjustment right. We ended up changing out the whole clutch basket, tranny bearings, and cable. we also tried another lever to be sure that was not it. we ran the cable in multiple ways. the throw out bearings were also changed out. Can't seem to get it adjusted right. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have 14" apes on the bike. magnum black cables. I did not have this problem prior to the incident with Amtrak. HD put the bike together which included a new clutch cable.
It all started when i had to replace the clutch because the plates went bad...? after the install of the new clutch, is when we couldn't the adjustment right. We ended up changing out the whole clutch basket, tranny bearings, and cable. we also tried another lever to be sure that was not it. we ran the cable in multiple ways. the throw out bearings were also changed out. Can't seem to get it adjusted right. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#4
With all of that I trust the adjustment inside the derby cover has been checked and re-checked so all that leaves is the mid cable adjuster or faulty parts. How far un screwed is the cable adjuster and is there more unscrewing adjustment left? How much lever free play is there when the lever is fully released and should be against the perch?
Inside the derby cover, how has the contact point been determined? If the adjuster is turned by hand, a burred thread is easily mistaken for the first resistance. I now use a wrench to turn the adjuster in several times and watch for the plate at the center of the basket which the adjuster goes through to move just a little. Then I know I have the real point of contact and make the adjustment from there. Good luck, many will be curious as to what you find.
Inside the derby cover, how has the contact point been determined? If the adjuster is turned by hand, a burred thread is easily mistaken for the first resistance. I now use a wrench to turn the adjuster in several times and watch for the plate at the center of the basket which the adjuster goes through to move just a little. Then I know I have the real point of contact and make the adjustment from there. Good luck, many will be curious as to what you find.
Last edited by btsom; 05-23-2014 at 11:34 AM.
#5
The length of the inner cable properly proportioned to the length of the outer housing could be your problem. The inner cable doesn't have enough travel (not long enough) in the housing which makes the length of its travel shorter through the lever fulcrum.
I would double check that the longer (non stock) cable is the correct one for fitment. If that isn't it then i would readjust the clutch as follows. First I would set the internal adjustment at 1 turn out from seated and then when adjusting the cable put a little more slack in than normal....this should get your engagement a little further out from the grip.
And just to be clear....you did correctly install the damper spring and damper seat inside the clutch basket before you started dropping the discs and plates in or forgot to remove them and doubled them up?
I would double check that the longer (non stock) cable is the correct one for fitment. If that isn't it then i would readjust the clutch as follows. First I would set the internal adjustment at 1 turn out from seated and then when adjusting the cable put a little more slack in than normal....this should get your engagement a little further out from the grip.
And just to be clear....you did correctly install the damper spring and damper seat inside the clutch basket before you started dropping the discs and plates in or forgot to remove them and doubled them up?
Last edited by twincam47; 05-23-2014 at 11:41 AM.
#7
I have only seen this one time. The ball and ramp mechanism actually moved further into the sidecover from its intended seated position. The sidecover either from casting or machining was fine for a while, 5K miles, but then the mechanism dropped deeper into the cover. All that is contained by the snap ring so a closer inspection of that area or measuring a know good one against yours might be in order. Instead of the ball and ramp pushing against the stack up to the clutch basket, it actually pushes back into the sidecover thus reducing lift of the plates. I know its a long shot and a pita but if everything else is fine then i think you should look at the not so obvious now.
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#8
I have only seen this one time. The ball and ramp mechanism actually moved further into the sidecover from its intended seated position. The sidecover either from casting or machining was fine for a while, 5K miles, but then the mechanism dropped deeper into the cover. All that is contained by the snap ring so a closer inspection of that area or measuring a know good one against yours might be in order. Instead of the ball and ramp pushing against the stack up to the clutch basket, it actually pushes back into the sidecover thus reducing lift of the plates. I know its a long shot and a pita but if everything else is fine then i think you should look at the not so obvious now.
#9
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