Re. : 1996 FLHTCI

Shifter Rod Lever loose, won't tighten ?

Not foot shifter or linkage.
Lever that slips over splined trans shaft.
Lever is located between trans and primary.
Foot shifter linkage attaches to this lever.
Lever switches gears in trans.

This lever is totally loose.
Allan bolt is on max tight.
With finger, can slide lever to end of splined shaft,
until it touches primary, lever barely engaging the shaft.
Lever is too thick to slip completely off shaft and remove it.

Seems a hundred years ago had same problem with another bike,
think '92 low rider. Can't remember what the repair was.

Any help?

 

BETTERLEVER.COM, thwhen u run it loose the knurl wears off the shaft better lever is about the only way to avoid pulling the primary and tearing into the trans to change the shaft.

 

sometimes u can get lucky and throw a grade8 bolt in it and tourqe the snot out of it,if u break or strip it u still got nothing to loose by trying.

 

$250.
Naw, there was a quicker, cheaper fix than that.

It was a neat mechanics', gear-head workaround.
I just can't remember what it was.

Maybe somebody else will.

 

Just changed mine on a 07 Ultra. Just put a screwdriver in slot and twist it open to get it off. Had to spread the new one open to get it on. I bought both the lever and bolt and bolt even come s with lock tight. Sure is nice to have a quiet bike again..

 

As was mentioned earlier, you can ( and I have successfully ) tighten it up. First remove the bolt. Lubricate the old bolt and run it in and out of the lever a couple of times. Discard the old bolt and use a new bolt ( grade 8 might be overkill but acceptable ). Put some Loc-Tite ( Blue ) in it and torque it down. It will tighten up and should resolve your problem unless the shift shaft out of the trans is shot. Hope this helps!

 

Thank you gentlemen.
Here's what I did in my shop (20 Mins.).
Caveat: Lever not removable on Evos (5spd) unless primary pulled.
Twin cams are different.

Re.: 1996 FLHTCI, 1st Yr. injected.

1. Removed allan bolt.
2. Used cutting wheel on Dremel w/flexible extension.
3. Guided wheel into existing pinch gap on existing lever. Used variable speed to carefully glide wheel back and forth, also, fingers to reposition lever on shaft as needed, to clean out, widen pinch gap nearest the shaft.
4. Squirted with brake cleaner.
5. Hit with air hose.
6. Used same allan bolt.
7. As I tightened bolt, could feel lever compressing, getting a new "pinch".
8. Actually tightened bolt to less than previous unsuccessful whammy torque.
9. Lever is tight--very tight on shaft now.
10. Will replace allan with Grade 8 Hex (5/16 24 x 1???)

Note: There is actually adequate room between the primary and trans to do this. Did not even have to put bike on lift.

Prognosis: Let's see if I can get another 35K miles on it.

Prequel: How I came to this plan.
If bolt is whammy tight onto lever, and if lever not compressing onto shaft, and lever is still floating around loosely on shaft, then, obstruction in pinch gap. Possibly bad original design or manufacture results in pinch gap closing on itself, nearest the shaft. Have seen some of these old bad levers, and it looks that way to me. The pinch gap does not remain parallel, instead, it meets itself at the inner end, closest to the shaft,
while the outer end, farthermost from the shaft is still showing a gap.
Thus, remove material from the pinch gap, closest to the shaft, and the lever should be able to tighten onto the shaft.

Please, hold your applause for the next 35K miles.

PS. I'm going to post this as an independent topic. Might be of help to another Evo guy some day.

 

The best solution....

 

$200.00 ... Lot of money for a little bit of stuff

 

Roger that, Uncle Larry.


Lever $225, w/shipping $250.
No way.
Better to turn a wrench and use your noggin.