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Rear cylinder destroyed

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  #11  
Old 07-26-2014, 01:27 AM
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This makes once that I agree with safetyman and mkguitar, (well today)
 
  #12  
Old 07-26-2014, 01:53 AM
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Sooo defensive. Didn't mean to hurt yer feelins...
 
  #13  
Old 07-26-2014, 02:08 AM
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Son, I don't have any feelings.
 
  #14  
Old 07-26-2014, 02:36 AM
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Sorry to hear of your trouble. As far as what you might need, you won't know for sure until you have the motor opened up and inspected. It very well may be isolated to just the rear cylinder, and the repairs shouldn't take more than a day or so, once the parts are in.


The stage IV kit is a good one, and should be noticeably stronger than a stage I build. These big twin motors are stone reliable, if built correctly. You can easily pull a little over one hp per cubic inch out of a twinkie without risking reliability, we've been doing it for years. A stock TC96 puts out 68 rear wheel hp, which is a very anemic .70 hp per cubic inch. There's a lot of room for improvement, without reliability taking a hit.
 
  #15  
Old 07-26-2014, 05:59 AM
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A dear friend and co-worker did similar, decided his 88ci RK wasn't enough so upgraded it to a 95, that seemed a bit underpowered with the OEM 2000 HD fuel injection that he couldn't get any more from and then scissored a crank so he went full tilt for a 107 upgrade with a Delphi system.


He loves long distance touring, currently on a jaunt thru NB into WY then MT and ID then AB Canada then returning home after 25 road days. His biggest concern is inability to get parts for repairs in short order on the road, most everything is off the shelf but by order only from specialty houses, he only gets 34mpg with the high horse power and doesn't or rather didn't care until he figured fuel stop distances beyond WY so he bought two of the saddlebag gallon carriers which cost gear space.


Yeah every added benefit of high horsepower will have drawbacks, he is still finding his. At best guess the old RK with a 5 gallon tank, the added HP doesn't serve it very well as my 2012 RGU 103 decat with a Stage 1 will almost keep up acceleration wise but run off from him when I step into 6th gear that he doesn't have as to top end plus I sit over 6 gallons of fuel at an average 45mpg. He is now rethinking what he spent to get here, has 15K in the engine/fuel system and some odds and ends he did during the build like repaint, custom graphics, etc. that took the tag to over 19K and yes he now realizes he could have just bought a better?/new ride for less.
 
  #16  
Old 07-26-2014, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SafetyMan
Not being critical, but this is exactly why I don't open the engine. Stg 1, yes, tuner, intake, exhaust.

Think of it this way... What is the most high performance engine you can think of?

8000HP top fueler maybe?

How long do they run?

1/4 mile, IF lucky. Then they get torn down, and rebuilt.

Stepping down... NASCAR engines? 800HP, they HOPE to get 500 miles out of one of them.

The other end... Toyota Camry 2.whatever liter, run for 400,000 miles.


On our bikes, we want something in between. The more HiPo you go, the less reliable you get.


If you want a bar slammer, something around town, a break down isn't really a big deal.
If you want to tour, dedicate precious vacation time to actually going somewhere on your scoot, a break down can be the difference between a great vacation and a nightmare.




I'm not preachin' just giving food for thought.

This is true nascar engines hope to get 500 miles out of their engine,but keep one thing in mind they are turning 9000 rpms ,I wonder how many miles they would go if they were running 2500 rpms.
 
  #17  
Old 07-26-2014, 06:35 AM
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Have them open it up and look , you shouldn't have concerns if fixed correctly . As far as the don't build a motor comments ignore them , it's not the build as much as who does the build , dealers usually have limited ability. My 2001 FLHTC was punched from a 88 to 95 along with a lot more work by a quality builder , 10 years later when I sold it I had no issues , my 2011 FLTRX I drove off the dealers show room floor to my builder and had the motor built , 3 years later no issues. Sorry for your luck.
 
  #18  
Old 07-26-2014, 08:14 AM
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No will know until the engine is at least partially opened. If the bits went through the rear cylinder, and did not hole,or,break the piston, than it's likely the front cylinder is fine. They may want to pull the front head to check, and that's fine. If the rear piston is holed or broken out, pieces could be throughout the engine. How good will the rebuild quality be? Can't say. If this is shop number 1, that you had problems or concerns with... But everyone makes a mistake, and they may well do it just fine. You might want to ask to look it over with them when they have it torn down enough in their opinion to make the final decision on what they need to do. Just to see if you agree.
 
  #19  
Old 07-26-2014, 09:55 AM
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Thanks. So if the piston is cracked then likely there is metal in the front cylinder as well? I assume then there would be metal in the crank case?
 
  #20  
Old 07-26-2014, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by EdandGrace
Thanks. So if the piston is cracked then likely there is metal in the front cylinder as well? I assume then there would be metal in the crank case?
And through out the oil system.
 


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