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Derby Torx Screw Replacement

  #1  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:19 AM
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Default Derby Torx Screw Replacement

I have a very small leak from the gasket at the primary case/cover that I need to take care of. At that time, I would like to replace all the OEM Torx screws for the Derby cover. Checking out page 520 of the Harley P&A catalog, they have different sizes available with no pricing. Page 517 has a set of chrome Torx specifically for the Derby but doesn't list a size for a hex equivalent.

Anyone know exactly what size I would need to replace the Derby Torx screws? Not sure if I want to go with these from Harley since they are chrome, unless I want to change out all the primary case/cover hex to chrome too. I guess I should ask about the sizes for the primary case/cover too in case I want to replace those with chrome.
 

Last edited by UltraClassicElectraGlide; 08-26-2014 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:23 AM
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1/4-20 x 5/8 grade 8 for derby cover.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:31 AM
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Default torx

I just replaced mine. You don't have to get the chrome ones. The parts department should have the stock ones for $1.05 ea.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dawg
1/4-20 x 5/8 grade 8 for derby cover.
Thank you both dawg and indyfjr for posting the information. I think I'll stick with the zink so I guess the sizes for the primary don't really matter right now.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:52 AM
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I wouldn't change them - those are some very strong screws, in fact so strong that I've seen them hold fast (when over torqued) and twist my snap-on T-27 bit. Chrome rusts, zinc takes a lot longer for that to happen.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by p51bombay
I wouldn't change them - those are some very strong screws, in fact so strong that I've seen them hold fast (when over torqued) and twist my snap-on T-27 bit. Chrome rusts, zinc takes a lot longer for that to happen.
I've never had an issue with the Torx, but thought it was a common complaint here that it's easy to strip the head and that many suggest changing them out to the hex. I just want to be proactive in preventing a problem down the road since that's the kind of luck I usually have when I put a tool in my hand.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by UltraClassicElectraGlide
I've never had an issue with the Torx, but thought it was a common complaint here that it's easy to strip the head and that many suggest changing them out to the hex. I just want to be proactive in preventing a problem down the road since that's the kind of luck I usually have when I put a tool in my hand.
That's funny, because that's the same luck that I have when I put a tool in my hand...
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by UltraClassicElectraGlide
I've never had an issue with the Torx, but thought it was a common complaint here that it's easy to strip the head and that many suggest changing them out to the hex. I just want to be proactive in preventing a problem down the road since that's the kind of luck I usually have when I put a tool in my hand.
I would venture a guess that most that have an issue are either not using the right size bit (T25 is close) and or are using a cheap tool. At one time I had a spare primary with a derby cover that I was getting powder coated. Went to remove the DC and several of the screws were so over torqued that the would not budge. Got out a hand impact and they still would not budge but the had never stripped. In fact, the bond between the bit and screw was so good that the snap-on T27 bit twisted and they still didn't strip. Drilled off the head and I could unscrew them with my fingers - not corroded or stuck, just way too tight. Torqued to spec they are easy to remove.
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by UltraClassicElectraGlide
I've never had an issue with the Torx, but thought it was a common complaint here that it's easy to strip the head and that many suggest changing them out to the hex. I just want to be proactive in preventing a problem down the road since that's the kind of luck I usually have when I put a tool in my hand.
The ones that had problems with the torx were using a t-25 bit to try and remove a t-27 bolt. Hex has less area for the bit to grab and a smaller diameter of the bit to try to turn the same size fastener, sound like a good idea?
 
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by qtrracer
The ones that had problems with the torx were using a t-25 bit to try and remove a t-27 bolt. Hex has less area for the bit to grab and a smaller diameter of the bit to try to turn the same size fastener, sound like a good idea?
Probably not easy finding a grade 8 hex in that size either.
 

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