Are you kidding? HD has been hiring all the auto industry lay-offs. The good engineers are still with the auto industry. Think about it.

 

If you could get the SWR as low as possible on the channel you want to use. Then leave the meter in the circuit it would work better, when you remove the meter the true SWR Changes. If anything changes it will effect the SWR. Even the bow the wind puts on the rod will effect it, that is why you see trucks with the antennas bent in to the wind.

 

Folks, I was having range problems with my CB also. I called around and this antenna was recommended for my RoadGlide. Hustler RG27 Center Loaded CB Antenna for Autos and Bikes. You can also get an adapter to go from Harley to standard CB antenna. This can be purchased from Sierra Electronics. Once installed, much clearer communication and better range, not great but better. Good Luck

 

There is nothing typical about RF propagation. Just because SafetyMan is convinced his radio works best there has no bearing on your radio.

If the SWR is the same on every channel, and your radio has the same output all around the band, the only difference would be in band noise and number of radiators (signal emitters) that already exist on your chosen channel.. basically.

If your bike emits a birdie on one channel, but not on another, steer away from the birdie....

other than that, its all a crap shoot.. best performance is achieved when your antenna is resonant at your chosen frequency of operation.

 

Oh I have gone through this with my Street Glide. I am a Road Captain in my HOG Group and we use radios a lot. I won't even get into the challenges of putting a radio on a Street Glide but it was done.

To answer your question. In general.... there is no channel that is better than another. It is entirely different for everyone. After much discussion and research we have found that even the CB modules themselves vary greatly in quality. Sure, they all have the same model # stamped on them, but are some are just stronger than others.

Antennas! Yes, the Harley antenna can be tuned, it is done buy removing the cap on the end of the antenna and cutting it down VERY gradually (by someone that knows what they are doing) until the optimum results are achieved.

Thinking of buying a SWR meter? OK. But do your research before you start nipping your antenna down, once it's cut, it can't be un-done. For proper SWR readings you need to be away from EVERYTHING as every building, power line and even where you are standing has a result on the SWR meter. If you are planning on tuning your radio in the garage... you are just going to botch it up.

What worked for me was antenna experimentaion. I originally had the mid-length Harley fiber glass antennas that... well they sucked. I even had them professionally tuned and they still sucked. Now again, there are many variables in play. I ride with someone who has the very exact antenna and works wonderfully well for them. Just for me, it did not.

I then went to J&M antennas, better but still had room for improvement.

I think there may have been a few more antennas that I tried, but what worked for me... again me.... was the older style whip antenna that Harley made... the one that everyone bitches about hitting them in the eye or getting stuck in the crevices of the garage door as it opens or closes... yup, thats the one that has worked the best for me.

 

Pretty sure you can buy tune able antennas right? I had a K40 trucker antenna before and it worked better but it won't bend so I stuck with the whips....I will eventually switch to something else but girl now it works fine.

 

Tried to pull off the little tip on the stock Harley antenna, but doesn't seem like it's gonna come off. Maybe I just need to use more force?


Also, when you clip down the antenna for tuning, do you clip the whole mast, or just the wire inside the mast? I watched a video from J & M and they just pulled the wire from inside the top of the mast and clipped the wire, the actual mast length stayed the same. Not sure if Harley's antennas are the same though?

 

The tip comes off hard, but it will come off.

The '14 style fiberglass mast doesn't have a wire that can be pulled out & cut, so I cut the mast itself. You'll get a bit of splitting of the tip, but it's of no consequence.

The tip won't fit after trimming the mast. I solved this by using a twist drill, held the tip & turned the twist drill by hand. Simple, easy, no power tool needed. You'll want to refit the cap after each cut before checking the SWR; it will be different with vs without the cap. When you're satisfied with the match, use a dab of silicone to hold the tip on. Let it set up overnight before riding just to ensure it stays put.

 

Wow! You just lost me. I thought the wire was the length that needed trimmed since it is what tries to make it 11 feet tall. Are you saying you just reduce the height the wire is by pushing it down? Then why cut the fiberglass? Or do you cut off the whole amount of the cap and have to? I'm so confused now!

 

The new antenna masts don't have an externally wound wire. You can't pull out & cut off something that's not there. Pull the cap, snip the mast, re-attach the cap, measure the SWR, repeat as needed. The actual procedure is pretty simple. Understanding what you're doing, what the SWR readings mean & interpreting what to do is a bit more complex.