Heat Issue Help!!!!
#11
09-16-2014, 07:35 PM
Join Date: Feb 2007
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I've got pretty much the same set-up on my '13 RGU. Only difference is mine has the SE high flow intake under the stock cover. Presumably, your bike is moving a bit more air with the Big Sucker than is mine. Irrelevant.
Using Jackpot 2-1-2 ceramic with 4" Jackpot "normal" baffles. Didn't get the Jackpot cross-over pipe, but am thinking about it. Have the latest SE Professional Race Tuner with the latest software and maps downloaded from the Mothership. My lowers are installed and it's hotter than hell here, in Arizona.
My bike is 1000% (not hundred, but thousand) cooler with this set-up. By that I mean, only a small fraction of the heat that was evident on the stock bike remains. The remaining heat feels like normal cooling fin exchange to atmosphere to me. There is no hot spot evident on the exhaust system (with possible exception of cross-over pipe area below the bike). There is no cooling noise (tinking, plinking, ringing, popping) when the bike is shut off after a long ride in 105 degree weather. This says to me that the engine is running much cooler than stock. I've actually never had an H-D injected bike that has run this cool. (I believe those headers really flow well)
I started with the "Stage I, 103" race exhaust (whatever that means) and SE high flow air cleaner" MAP from H-D. Upon first flash -- in preparation for Smart Tune -- the MAP was very lean. It exhibited popping on decel, surging at cruise, and lots of heat. Here's where Fuel Moto could, and should, have been more helpful. At any rate, the best starting map from H-D was pretty far from the mark and way-lean.
After two smart tune sessions (on the road), the bike has no surging, no popping, and runs as cool as any air cooled bike possibly can. The tune isn't perfect, but it is very, very close. Heat all but gone.
Your dyno tuner doesn't know what he's doing. You could/should (IMHO) run a Smart Tune on top of the flash that's currently in your bike. I wouldn't go back to the same tuner you've been using, that's for sure. In other words, your bike is running too lean if you're still having heat problems with that set-up after tuning.
(p.s., I do have a sense that the restriction in the stock cross-over pipe is making the whole area under the trans -- and the trans itself -- hotter than necessary. I'm considering adding the Jackpot large diameter cross-over pipe to my set-up. Or, I may wrap the cross over. I'm concerned about the temperature inside the trans. This is my first bike with the new frame, and I'm not used to the temperatures I'm experiencing in the transmission lubricant)
(P.P.S., you either have ceramic coated 2-1-2 header, or you have a Stainless 2-1-2 header. The ceramic header from FM is mild steel, not stainless. And, the stainless headers are not coated)
Using Jackpot 2-1-2 ceramic with 4" Jackpot "normal" baffles. Didn't get the Jackpot cross-over pipe, but am thinking about it. Have the latest SE Professional Race Tuner with the latest software and maps downloaded from the Mothership. My lowers are installed and it's hotter than hell here, in Arizona.
My bike is 1000% (not hundred, but thousand) cooler with this set-up. By that I mean, only a small fraction of the heat that was evident on the stock bike remains. The remaining heat feels like normal cooling fin exchange to atmosphere to me. There is no hot spot evident on the exhaust system (with possible exception of cross-over pipe area below the bike). There is no cooling noise (tinking, plinking, ringing, popping) when the bike is shut off after a long ride in 105 degree weather. This says to me that the engine is running much cooler than stock. I've actually never had an H-D injected bike that has run this cool. (I believe those headers really flow well)
I started with the "Stage I, 103" race exhaust (whatever that means) and SE high flow air cleaner" MAP from H-D. Upon first flash -- in preparation for Smart Tune -- the MAP was very lean. It exhibited popping on decel, surging at cruise, and lots of heat. Here's where Fuel Moto could, and should, have been more helpful. At any rate, the best starting map from H-D was pretty far from the mark and way-lean.
After two smart tune sessions (on the road), the bike has no surging, no popping, and runs as cool as any air cooled bike possibly can. The tune isn't perfect, but it is very, very close. Heat all but gone.
Your dyno tuner doesn't know what he's doing. You could/should (IMHO) run a Smart Tune on top of the flash that's currently in your bike. I wouldn't go back to the same tuner you've been using, that's for sure. In other words, your bike is running too lean if you're still having heat problems with that set-up after tuning.
(p.s., I do have a sense that the restriction in the stock cross-over pipe is making the whole area under the trans -- and the trans itself -- hotter than necessary. I'm considering adding the Jackpot large diameter cross-over pipe to my set-up. Or, I may wrap the cross over. I'm concerned about the temperature inside the trans. This is my first bike with the new frame, and I'm not used to the temperatures I'm experiencing in the transmission lubricant)
(P.P.S., you either have ceramic coated 2-1-2 header, or you have a Stainless 2-1-2 header. The ceramic header from FM is mild steel, not stainless. And, the stainless headers are not coated)
#12
09-16-2014, 07:47 PM
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 81
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I've got pretty much the same set-up on my '13 RGU. Only difference is mine has the SE high flow intake under the stock cover. Presumably, your bike is moving a bit more air with the Big Sucker than is mine. Irrelevant.
Using Jackpot 2-1-2 ceramic with 4" Jackpot "normal" baffles. Didn't get the Jackpot cross-over pipe, but am thinking about it. Have the latest SE Professional Race Tuner with the latest software and maps downloaded from the Mothership. My lowers are installed and it's hotter than hell here, in Arizona.
My bike is 1000% (not hundred, but thousand) cooler with this set-up. By that I mean, only a small fraction of the heat that was evident on the stock bike remains. The remaining heat feels like normal cooling fin exchange to atmosphere to me. There is no hot spot evident on the exhaust system (with possible exception of cross-over pipe area below the bike). There is no cooling noise (tinking, plinking, ringing, popping) when the bike is shut off after a long ride in 105 degree weather. This says to me that the engine is running much cooler than stock. I've actually never had an H-D injected bike that has run this cool. (I believe those headers really flow well)
I started with the "Stage I, 103" race exhaust (whatever that means) and SE high flow air cleaner" MAP from H-D. Upon first flash -- in preparation for Smart Tune -- the MAP was very lean. It exhibited popping on decel, surging at cruise, and lots of heat. Here's where Fuel Moto could, and should, have been more helpful. At any rate, the best starting map from H-D was pretty far from the mark and way-lean.
After two smart tune sessions (on the road), the bike has no surging, no popping, and runs as cool as any air cooled bike possibly can. The tune isn't perfect, but it is very, very close. Heat all but gone.
Your dyno tuner doesn't know what he's doing. You could/should (IMHO) run a Smart Tune on top of the flash that's currently in your bike. I wouldn't go back to the same tuner you've been using, that's for sure. In other words, your bike is running too lean if you're still having heat problems with that set-up after tuning.
(p.s., I do have a sense that the restriction in the stock cross-over pipe is making the whole area under the trans -- and the trans itself -- hotter than necessary. I'm considering adding the Jackpot large diameter cross-over pipe to my set-up. Or, I may wrap the cross over. I'm concerned about the temperature inside the trans. This is my first bike with the new frame, and I'm not used to the temperatures I'm experiencing in the transmission lubricant)
(P.P.S., you either have ceramic coated 2-1-2 header, or you have a Stainless 2-1-2 header. The ceramic header from FM is mild steel, not stainless. And, the stainless headers are not coated)
Using Jackpot 2-1-2 ceramic with 4" Jackpot "normal" baffles. Didn't get the Jackpot cross-over pipe, but am thinking about it. Have the latest SE Professional Race Tuner with the latest software and maps downloaded from the Mothership. My lowers are installed and it's hotter than hell here, in Arizona.
My bike is 1000% (not hundred, but thousand) cooler with this set-up. By that I mean, only a small fraction of the heat that was evident on the stock bike remains. The remaining heat feels like normal cooling fin exchange to atmosphere to me. There is no hot spot evident on the exhaust system (with possible exception of cross-over pipe area below the bike). There is no cooling noise (tinking, plinking, ringing, popping) when the bike is shut off after a long ride in 105 degree weather. This says to me that the engine is running much cooler than stock. I've actually never had an H-D injected bike that has run this cool. (I believe those headers really flow well)
I started with the "Stage I, 103" race exhaust (whatever that means) and SE high flow air cleaner" MAP from H-D. Upon first flash -- in preparation for Smart Tune -- the MAP was very lean. It exhibited popping on decel, surging at cruise, and lots of heat. Here's where Fuel Moto could, and should, have been more helpful. At any rate, the best starting map from H-D was pretty far from the mark and way-lean.
After two smart tune sessions (on the road), the bike has no surging, no popping, and runs as cool as any air cooled bike possibly can. The tune isn't perfect, but it is very, very close. Heat all but gone.
Your dyno tuner doesn't know what he's doing. You could/should (IMHO) run a Smart Tune on top of the flash that's currently in your bike. I wouldn't go back to the same tuner you've been using, that's for sure. In other words, your bike is running too lean if you're still having heat problems with that set-up after tuning.
(p.s., I do have a sense that the restriction in the stock cross-over pipe is making the whole area under the trans -- and the trans itself -- hotter than necessary. I'm considering adding the Jackpot large diameter cross-over pipe to my set-up. Or, I may wrap the cross over. I'm concerned about the temperature inside the trans. This is my first bike with the new frame, and I'm not used to the temperatures I'm experiencing in the transmission lubricant)
(P.P.S., you either have ceramic coated 2-1-2 header, or you have a Stainless 2-1-2 header. The ceramic header from FM is mild steel, not stainless. And, the stainless headers are not coated)
#13
09-16-2014, 08:14 PM
#14
09-17-2014, 04:55 AM
Cruiser
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Florida
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#15
09-17-2014, 05:09 AM
Tourer
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Conover, NC
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Im having heat issues right achilles area and calf.... I have ceramic coated in/out headers (fullsac), FM Jackpots, PM Big Air, Powervision and good tune. I'm going to wrap the front header with exhaust wrap under the heat shield to move heat rearward.
I also don't recall this much heat with the stock headers... either.... maybe the cat was a big heat sink....
Let me know if you find out anything and I'll post results after I get the exhaust wrapped.
I also don't recall this much heat with the stock headers... either.... maybe the cat was a big heat sink....
Let me know if you find out anything and I'll post results after I get the exhaust wrapped.
#16
09-17-2014, 05:19 AM
#17
09-17-2014, 06:20 AM
Stellar HDF Member
#18
09-17-2014, 11:21 AM
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Pine Tree, with the use of a IR temp device, I'm finding that the heat is not coming from the header but more so the rear cylinder. Ran yesterday with a local temp hi 60's to low 70's, rear cylinder 320F, my buddy who road with me temps were 250, I did take into consideration that I have lowers and he doesn't, but the difference was way greater than what I expected and he's running 110 heads. Beginning to wonder what my oil is doing, no oil temp gauge so in the dark for now. Got an oil cooler, so the cheapest rout for now is to change the oil and see if there is a difference, and check oil cooler to make sure it's working. Thanks for the reply.
