I won't to see what I can do to get more trq lower down in the band
Here is my current setup
It is a SE 110.

SE dome 10.5 pistons
SE 110 heads stock
54mm tb with 4.9 inj
Dave mackie 598 duration is 254 intake and 256 exhaust
la chopper duals/ similar to rinehart
SE stage 1 AC

 

dip at 2500 looks like drag pipe dip - how big are the baffles in those pipes? I added Big City Thunder QQ baffles ahead of my V&H with 2.5" internals and got my low end torque back.

 

Dip at low is from very rich mixture or slow timing. That is what the AFR table at the bottom of the chart shows. Could be slow timing or combination of both. The whole Chart line is all over the place. The 100% column for VE should be around 95 to 100 at 2000 and up to 115+ by 3000 then after 3000 it should be still around 115 to prevent the really lean mix it is showing after 3000. The timing at 2000 should be around 20 at 2000 and is probably around 7 or 8 and up to about 28 at 3000 and is actually 18 or 19 and go to a high of 30 to 32 in the 100% area on up from 3000. 28 to 30 degrees max is ok in the 100% range. You didn't say what tuner you are using. I bet it is also a bear to ride slow below 2500 without it jumping and jerking and not have good throttle response off idle. If you can change your tune and have access to your tune map if you want send me a PM with it and your email and I will see if can help. Anytime you see more torque at 2000 rpms than at 2500 something is wrong with the tune. That is not a cam dip. Lot of tuners just assume nothing can be done about it. Not saying dyno tunes are bad. Some are though. The big valves in the 110 add to the difficulty of getting the tune right down low. You also didn't say what motor size is either. These numbers will work for 103 to 107. I doubt it is a 96 with 80+ torque at 2000. All the timing and VE numbers I listed are for flash tuners. If you have a PCV or PCIII or Fuel Pak these numbers don't work for them.

 

It is a 110.
Pm sent Ke5rbd.

 

who said it was a cam dip?

 

My guess is a combo of bad tune, pipes and big 110 chambers dropping ccp.

 

You've had a lot of work done to your motor, maybe more than once? Your setup is giving you power when you don't need it, in the high rpm range. Getting it where your torque curve comes in earlier and stays relatively flat from 1800 rpm to 3500 rpm (where you probably ride majority of the time) will require talking to a good tuner/engine shop. I would not make any changes till I talked to someone who understood how you ride and then fix it once. Bottom line is it could be a bad tune, wrong cams, size of the throttle body or a combination. The true duals are affecting your power curve only if the rest is off.

 

I did all the work at one time. I put a 110 kit in. Had crank balanced, trued, welded, and case bored. Only thing it already had engine wise was the exhaust.

 

This is the guy that figured out my 110 problems when no one else could. He's 8 hours from me but he's the only guy I will let tune my bike. I'm sure there are other decent guys but I don't know any better.
His Name is Russ. call his cell phone number on his site.
http://thunderxperformance.com/

 

Change that for a 2-into-1, which will give you much better low/mid range torque. True duals are just drag pipes with mufflers. I picked up 15% more torque changing over on my 107".