Need advice on cams and motor work 2012 limited
#11
I would certainly recommend talking to a decent tuning shop. We have at least two who are HDF sponsors, including FM and Hillside. Phone and discuss what you want your bike to do, they are bound to have a proven package that will give top results. A darned sight easier than inventing one yourself!
#12
I've been wanting to upgrade my internals also my biggest question is how strong is the bottom end on these bikes i've read here and there that the crank design is not exactly the best for holding up to power. I'd hate to invest 3-4k on heads,cams,injectors to have my case blow apart after 20-30k miles.
Really if im going to throw much more money than that wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a crate engine or am I miss understanding. My goal I guess would be to make my RG as fast as my V-rod was but I am nervous to upgrade the engine and lose 1/2 the reliability in the process. Any suggestions or other links to check out?
Really if im going to throw much more money than that wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a crate engine or am I miss understanding. My goal I guess would be to make my RG as fast as my V-rod was but I am nervous to upgrade the engine and lose 1/2 the reliability in the process. Any suggestions or other links to check out?
#13
I just had my SG done with the Head-Quarters 107 kit (10.5:1 compression) also had the heads ported too. My builder said there wouldn't be any problems with the bottom end, the engine will last like a normal engine with regular maintenance, he's been building them for years. It dyno'd at 121.4 Tq/115 Hp, this thing flies. This is how they SHOULD come from the factory, but alas.....
#14
I've been wanting to upgrade my internals also my biggest question is how strong is the bottom end on these bikes i've read here and there that the crank design is not exactly the best for holding up to power. I'd hate to invest 3-4k on heads,cams,injectors to have my case blow apart after 20-30k miles.
Really if im going to throw much more money than that wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a crate engine or am I miss understanding. My goal I guess would be to make my RG as fast as my V-rod was but I am nervous to upgrade the engine and lose 1/2 the reliability in the process. Any suggestions or other links to check out?
Really if im going to throw much more money than that wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a crate engine or am I miss understanding. My goal I guess would be to make my RG as fast as my V-rod was but I am nervous to upgrade the engine and lose 1/2 the reliability in the process. Any suggestions or other links to check out?
If you want to make big reliable power build a 124 at 10:5 -10:8 to 1. It will add about $2300 to your build.
Last edited by sporacer; 09-28-2014 at 06:39 AM.
#15
I've been wanting to upgrade my internals also my biggest question is how strong is the bottom end on these bikes i've read here and there that the crank design is not exactly the best for holding up to power. I'd hate to invest 3-4k on heads,cams,injectors to have my case blow apart after 20-30k miles.
Really if im going to throw much more money than that wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a crate engine or am I miss understanding. My goal I guess would be to make my RG as fast as my V-rod was but I am nervous to upgrade the engine and lose 1/2 the reliability in the process. Any suggestions or other links to check out?
Really if im going to throw much more money than that wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a crate engine or am I miss understanding. My goal I guess would be to make my RG as fast as my V-rod was but I am nervous to upgrade the engine and lose 1/2 the reliability in the process. Any suggestions or other links to check out?
A crate engine will cost a great deal more than 3-4K, but if you want nuclear bunker reliability buy an S&S engine. They do a nice line in 124" engines, but be prepared to hang on tight! One member has reported around 145/145.....
#16
#17
I was planning on getting the SE stage 4, the Race one not the one that keeps the warranty. But then I was looking at FM 117'' will have to weigh my options. I don't beat on the bike but when i'm around my buddies sometimes I get a little carried away.
If it only costs a little more to split the cases i'll go that route, but it does seem like alot of guys are running stock bottoms without issues like you mentioned.
If it only costs a little more to split the cases i'll go that route, but it does seem like alot of guys are running stock bottoms without issues like you mentioned.
#18
spor a question
spora i have a 103 mva heads 95cc hd head gasket .045 10.5:1 pistion believe dome puts cc at 12 from what some one posted in here. static if im doing this right is 10.2 has an andrews 32 cam now just not enough pull, andrews recommended this cam for my ultra . had se255 at first cpp was way too high 208 actual comp with guage 230 pulled very hard had 100 tq 93 hp but motor felt different while driving with the 255 with huge compression
using big boyz with these numbers, trying the 777 i get 193 cpp u think that is about the range the 777 likes to be in
using big boyz with these numbers, trying the 777 i get 193 cpp u think that is about the range the 777 likes to be in
Last edited by 2009blackpearle; 09-30-2014 at 01:43 PM.
#19
[QUOTE=2009blackpearle;13271827]spora i have a 103 mva heads 95cc hd head gasket .045 10.5:1 pistion believe dome puts cc at 12 from what some one posted in here. static if im doing this right is 10.2 has an andrews 32 cam now just not enough pull, andrews recommended this cam for my ultra . had se255 at first cpp was way too high 208 actual comp with guage 230 pulled very hard had 100 tq 93 hp but motor felt different while driving with the 255 with huge compression
using big boyz with these numbers, trying the 777 i get 193 cpp u think that is about the range the 777 likes to be in[/QU
Yes you are in the range of operation with that cam but are on the low side for compression. How far down in the hole are the pistons?
I would really be rethinking your combination. You have a head that needs compression and a big cams to work properly. What is your goal for power?what exhaust and tuner are you using?
using big boyz with these numbers, trying the 777 i get 193 cpp u think that is about the range the 777 likes to be in[/QU
Yes you are in the range of operation with that cam but are on the low side for compression. How far down in the hole are the pistons?
I would really be rethinking your combination. You have a head that needs compression and a big cams to work properly. What is your goal for power?what exhaust and tuner are you using?
#20
had pics cant find them
thanks spora i had pics of the 10.5 pistons in the holes but cant find them, have copies at work. if i recall the flat sides of piston looked about same as the stock 103 about .006 below deck, the crowns on the 10.5 was about at least .125 above deck. if i put .030 in for head gasket cpp jumps up to 201.. Im trying to decide what I will do when the time comes with some extra money, stick with heads that are probably way too big for my build or get a set of ported stock heads and go with stock 103 flat tops I have from first build with the 255 cams, or take my cylinders I have on the bike now and get a fuel moto 107 kit. I still have stock 96 in cylinders from the bike. I do have the stock heads but hate the manual decompression releases. while im picking your brain oil pumps I see the 400 buck cam plate with bigger oil pump and hyd chain shoes, I think the new twin cams already have the pump on the stock plates, and the 400 buck conversion is for bikes with spring shoes? is there another pump that will pump more oil a bit higher pressure, also looking at axtell oil spring, Im so tired of noisey lifters have a set of crapola c hd lifters in it now boy they bleed fast. sorry im on some one elses thread hope any thing i asked helps person who started this