LA Choppers Twin Peaks 10''
#1
LA Choppers Twin Peaks 10''
I ride a '10 SG trike. My concern are the holes for the internal wiring.
Forum, Touring Models, Title,"LA Choppers Twin Peaks" posts #30-32 stated throttle sticking because of the hole configuration. The fix was to dremmel a groove. I ran across other views were the holes were drilled or filed larger to keep the wires from pinching.
I did sit on a '16 Glide with the 10" Twin Peaks a good fit for me because I have a long reach. These are the bars for me but alternating them just doesn't seem right!
Any thoughts?
Forum, Touring Models, Title,"LA Choppers Twin Peaks" posts #30-32 stated throttle sticking because of the hole configuration. The fix was to dremmel a groove. I ran across other views were the holes were drilled or filed larger to keep the wires from pinching.
I did sit on a '16 Glide with the 10" Twin Peaks a good fit for me because I have a long reach. These are the bars for me but alternating them just doesn't seem right!
Any thoughts?
#2
I put on a different set of bars than that on my '14 (didn't like 'em and replaced them, too, but that's another story.)
When I went to put the TBW sensor into the end of the newer bars, there was an interference, the slot that a tab fits in was cut a little too narrow. I opened it up a squinch with a Dremel tool. No biggie, went right in. But...
When I slid on the grip, it kind of dragged, and when turned it would only go about halfway back to zero throttle. The spring couldn't overcome the friction.
Here it turned out that when they punched the slot, it also bent the corner of the bar up on one side of the slot. It stuck out like a bad tooth.
Same thing, I ground it down with a Dremel, and it worked just fine.
I could also see a set of bars maybe coming with some burrs not removed. No matter what, if you're at all handy, a little work with a Dremel or a file isn't very hard. Just don't try to take too much off at a time and you'll be fine. You could even use an angle grinder LIGHTLY if that's all you have on hand. Clean it up good afterwards, too, not a great place for metal filings.
Likewise the second set of bars came, and the holes where the controls cables go in (under the lever clamps) were too small to allow running the connectors through them. A few minutes with the little grinder, and problem solved.
Cutting a groove would be more involved, but it can't be that hard. Figure out how little you can get away with removing. Measure, mark, measure again, protect what you aren't removing with a couple of layers of DUCT TAPE to prevent marring, and have at it. Be careful not to go all the way through.
Making the holes longer (NOT wider) shouldn't affect strength if you don't get carried away.
In any case, you won't be removing enough metal anywhere to impact the strength, I'd say go for it. Hope that helps.
When I went to put the TBW sensor into the end of the newer bars, there was an interference, the slot that a tab fits in was cut a little too narrow. I opened it up a squinch with a Dremel tool. No biggie, went right in. But...
When I slid on the grip, it kind of dragged, and when turned it would only go about halfway back to zero throttle. The spring couldn't overcome the friction.
Here it turned out that when they punched the slot, it also bent the corner of the bar up on one side of the slot. It stuck out like a bad tooth.
Same thing, I ground it down with a Dremel, and it worked just fine.
I could also see a set of bars maybe coming with some burrs not removed. No matter what, if you're at all handy, a little work with a Dremel or a file isn't very hard. Just don't try to take too much off at a time and you'll be fine. You could even use an angle grinder LIGHTLY if that's all you have on hand. Clean it up good afterwards, too, not a great place for metal filings.
Likewise the second set of bars came, and the holes where the controls cables go in (under the lever clamps) were too small to allow running the connectors through them. A few minutes with the little grinder, and problem solved.
Cutting a groove would be more involved, but it can't be that hard. Figure out how little you can get away with removing. Measure, mark, measure again, protect what you aren't removing with a couple of layers of DUCT TAPE to prevent marring, and have at it. Be careful not to go all the way through.
Making the holes longer (NOT wider) shouldn't affect strength if you don't get carried away.
In any case, you won't be removing enough metal anywhere to impact the strength, I'd say go for it. Hope that helps.
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wam6187
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03-08-2016 06:54 PM