Mr Wizard where did you get the longer stud?

 

I went to the hardware store and bought an extension nut and a stainless bolt the same size as the horn stud. I measured how much I needed to extend the stud so the chrome acorn nut hold the horn.

I cut the extension nut down then the bolt. Applied blue locktite to the extension nut and studs.

 

I went to the hardware store and bought an extension nut and a stainless bolt the same size as the horn stud. I measured how much I needed to extend the stud so the chrome acorn nut hold the horn.

I cut the extension nut down then the bolt. Applied blue locktite to the extension nut and studs and added a large washer. You will see that the extension nut will fit inside the mounting hole of the fans.

In the large picture showing the horn it looks like the fans are behind the horn, not so... they are side by side and equal distance from the horn. The picture is just at an angle showing the left fan touching.

 

I did the same thing with my Softail to extend the stud out for the Coil Relocation and the Wards Fans. Used a coupler nut and a stud from Lowes. (remember the threadlocker!)

 

I will have to measure the air horn cover that i have. Not sure if the bracket on the air blowers. Would it hurt anything if the air blowers would sit behind the air horn cover, if i move the cover out enough to clear the blowers? As long as i have circulation.

 

Jason may be able to help you on this. But the one thing that is sure, the fans need to have clearance between the back of them and the cylinders/heads. If you just put the fan bracket up against the existing rubber on the stud, the fans will hit/touch the cylinders/heads and this is not good.

You can see in the photo I posted that I have the coil relocation bracket on the outside of the fan bracket, but I did put a space between the rubber and the fan bracket so that they do not touch the cylinders/heads.

Check with Jason on what space he recommends and what material to use.

 

Kevin,


I'm looking at doing this same set up on my Wide Glide. My questions is can I use the "Ready to Install" length Spark Wires, or will I need to get the standard and measure and cut them myself?


I really like the look of the black "Ready to Install" wires, and would prefer to go with them if they will fit in this configuration.

 

Sorry, just saw this post. Yes, the Ready to Install PRO Race will work in this configuration.

 

American Custom decated headers and their skip-on's and DynoJet Power Vision. Heat gone and a lot more responsive power.