Just purchased a beautiful 2009 tri glide with only 3000 miles on it. It has been parked for a couple years and I can't get the trunk open. The button clicks and the right side seems to release but the left side is stuck. I spayed a lot of silicone in the lock and along the seals. Any ideas? Would help if I saw a picture of the mechanism and inside the trunk. Could someone upload a pic please.

 

I hope this helps. This is my Triglide 2014.

 

If anything is going to hang up, I'd bet it'd be one of the bolts from the cables. Maybe tug it a tad to the right.

Also push IN on the hatch and then push the button and release/pull the hatch, maybe the button is going in but not pulling the little tab catching the groove on the pin out. But other than those and the seal, there doesn't seem to be a whole lot more that could hang up.

 

It is possible that the weather seal (gasket) is stuck in place as well. I have seen where someone had sprayed a silicone or other spray on the weather seal and caused it to stick to the other side of the box until pulled apart. It all depends on if or what they put on that seal to preserve it's life. We had a rider who had a leak in the door and he sprayed so much stuff trying to seal out the water that it made a total mess of the weather seal.
Frank

 

Has anyone had any problem with excessive heat at the air breather. I recently purchased a 2015 Freewheeler, and when I ride for 45 mins or more, the heat coming off the engine near the air breather is so hot that it burns me. I am not touching the breather at all when riding.

 

I had a similar problem with my 2013 Tri Glide Ultra classic. The big issues are 1. Your right leg is next to the ehhaust header, specifically the catalytic converter, which generates massive amounts of heat; 2. The mid body air scoops tend to gather the heat and hold it. If you lost the left side deflector, the air flow would be more unidirectional. My solution was to install a set of Hawgpipe head pipes with the cat removed. These were all of $75.00 after a core exhange. Changed them out myself then installed a K&N air filter in the stock housing and picked up some O2 sensor eliminators. The biggest help was to get a phase I tune on the engine, it got rid of the lean-burning nature of the beast. Total out of pocket cost was less than $300.

 

I had a lot of right side heat on my 2015 Tri Glide,installed a Cobra powerport headpipe{no cats}V/H trike deluxe mufflers and V/H FP,the heat is way less and the bike runs much better.Did all the work myself.

 

I have a 2015 Tri-Glide and so far all is good, even after the 1K check at the dealer.

I do think that MSOCKO3 has a good point about all calling the motor company, at least on the same morning if possible. You can tell the CS person that answers you are not trying to make it a bummer day for them since they talk to us, the customer first, but someone up the food chain needs to take notice and start doing something for the riders, I mean "customers".

 

I just got back from doing a Route 66 trip. Went through the desert twice - 120* temps - according to my LED dipstick the oil never went over 258*. I did not have any heat issues with the cat.
Matter of fact I was quite comfortable because I was wearing (for the first time) a set of "Heat Out" underwear and a "Cool Vest". I completely endorse those 2 products.

But I did realize that I do need more power (going through the mountains was a bit slow). So I'm thinking of going over to the dark side (which I never thought I'd do) and change over to the Cobra head pipes and slipons, Screaming Eagle Stage 2 A/C, and Race Tuner.

 

Anyone having a problem filling the gas tank full? I have to shake the bike to get more gas in.