I'm in the middle of changing handlebars on my TG Ultra Classic. Got the outer fairing off, inner fairing cap off. I see that the inner fairing is in the way of taking the handlebar clamp bolts out. I don't want to go through the tedious task of removing everything from the inner fairing and removing it. Any shortcuts? Can I remove the 4 inner fairing mounting screws to move it enough to get at the bolts? I've never done bars on a bat-wing before. Thought I'd ask before I start removing stuff I don't need to. This is probably the most complex mod I've ever done but will definitely take my time!

 

Boom

Grab some long, ball end allen wrenches and remove your radio. That should get you access to the bar clamps. Handle the radio gently. They don't like vibration.

 

Excellent! Thank you Mr. Wiz!!
Got everything apart OK. It was nice of them to put elongated holes on the inner fairing verticle crossmembers so access to the radio screws was easy with the t-ball allen wrench. Also had to loosen inner fairing mount screws and screws that hold on highway lights on forks to get at and remove bottom clamp screws. Now to the task of feeding the wires into the chubby bars.

 

At last, I'm finished!! My biggest problems were getting the inner fairing out of the way so I could access the handlebar mount bolts and installing the front radio screws (closest to inner fairing) for fear of stripping (they didn't get installed). I lost about 6" inches of right/left control cabling since I fed them thru the WO575 chubbies. I had to reroute inside the fairing to make connections. I also had to splice about 10" of wire to reverse control. cabling. Wasn't bad since there's only 4 wires. That length gave me extra routing room. Running the right control cable was a bear!! The small TBW connector in the bar created a very tight squeeze! I was advised to order CVO TBW connectorless cable---no time, didn't want to spend extra 90 bucks! Many lessons learned here. (cable lube and WD40)

All being said, the bar transition was well worth it! I can sit upright, relax against my backrest, and enjoy. The clutch pull seems easier, less stress on my wrists, and turning seems more sensitive and easier. I'll have to get some pictures today and post. The Wild1 support guy wanted to see finished results since someone from H-D said the 575s would not fit the Tri-Glide(?)
I wouldn't recommend anyone doing this unless you've got tools, lots of patience, and some soldering experience. Oh yeah--shrink tubing!! A must!

 

Congrats Boom... I hope you like yours as much as I do mine! Not only will you be in a better riding position but you will also reduce the butt burn, the trike will seem easier to turn in tight places.

Only issue I have with mine is the extra idle vibration. If you use a handlebar cup holder or GPS they will bounce a bit more. All I can say is... use a screw top on your drink or you leg will be wearing it.

 

Good to hear you got it finished, sure sounds like a lot of fussing around.

 

Haven't noticed the extra vibration but if I get a cup holder I'll take that in to oconsideration, lol.
Funny thing is, I do notice butt burn. I think I had that before the handlebar change. A Road Zepelin seat now seems to come to mind?? Worth 600 bucks anyone?

 

I don't think it would have been so bad if I'd worked on a batwing before. I wasn't prepared for the TBW connector and problems accessing handlebar mount screws with immovable inner fairing. Doing the handlebar wiring on my '05 Road Glide was a bit simpler. I like doing this mod by cut-and-solder as opposed to removing connector pins (which I still can't figure out).

 

Boom???
Now that you had time with your new handle bars, how's the bar working out for you? When you talk about routing the wires through the bar, are these wires the ones normally outside the bar and you stuffed them? I'm assuming the front brake line had to be replaced also!!
Butch

 

The brake line was the easy part - flexible not copper. No modifications there. I love the WO575s and their comfort. If I had to do it again, I'd get rid of the little green connector on TBW and solder the wires together. The connector made it difficult to cram everything thru throttle side of bar. I bought a special electricians lubricant at Home Depot that helped. The only thing you see outside the handlebars is the brake line, and +4" clutch cable.