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Fork tube swap write up...

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  #11  
Old 04-18-2012, 04:03 AM
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VooDoo13
I put in 11 oz of fork oil, could this of caused the forks to start clucking.
How would I be able to remove an oz of fluid without taking the forks
completly apart.
I only took the forks as far as you did in your write up, just changed over to chrome sliders.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 03 Softail
VooDoo13
I put in 11 oz of fork oil, could this of caused the forks to start clucking.
How would I be able to remove an oz of fluid without taking the forks
completly apart.
I only took the forks as far as you did in your write up, just changed over to chrome sliders.
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
You could have a loose neck bearing, this has been known to happen since HD no longer used a lock plate.
 
  #13  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:57 AM
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I'll check the neck bearing, put when you push the bike up against a wall to compress
the forks you can hear the cluck in the forks.
It just started doing this after changing the sliders.
thanks
 
  #14  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:32 PM
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Yes locate the problem before you change anything. But best way to remove oil is going to be the same way you drained it the first time. And use a measuring cup. Just don't remove to Much and make sure to remove the same amount. But I would confirm everything is tight and it's not something else.
 
  #15  
Old 06-06-2014, 08:53 PM
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Feels like a stupid question, but I read in my manual that a lot of things should be trashed (the 6mm screw and crush washer, quad seal, orings, etc). I'm looking to swap my stock front forks out for wrinkle coated sliders and cowbells. Do I really need to trash the screws and seals if they're still in good shape? I only have about 16k on my '08 FLHX. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good seal kit if I need to do that? I'm partial to J&P and eBay because I'm cheap.
 
  #16  
Old 06-06-2014, 09:10 PM
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Wow i have been off the grid a while. Its an honor to see so many people getting help from it.To be honest the cost would be worth it in the end. My wife's bike was still new.i can't imagine it would be more than a $150 for parts. Just imagine if you done and then have to do if again. My time is worth that much. Not to mention the satisfaction of knowing it was done.
 
  #17  
Old 06-06-2014, 09:24 PM
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all that stuff comes in the rebuild kit, bolt not really needed but don't cheap out on seals, bushings and washer - beats having to go in again.
 
  #18  
Old 06-06-2014, 10:44 PM
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You guys are right. I posted that, and then immediately regretted it. If I'm going to do something, do it right. Especially if I'm entrusting my life or the life of my passengers to the work.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/221-411 This is the link I found on jpcycles. The only thing I notice it's missing from the picture is the crush washer for the 6mm bolt. And not that I'm trying to cheap out, but would this kit I found on eBay work just as well? http://www.ebay.com/itm/181341100602
 
  #19  
Old 06-06-2014, 11:14 PM
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Some things are worth the extra cost for OEM, cables, gaskets and seals are among those on the list - I'd stick with OEM with those.
 
  #20  
Old 11-28-2014, 06:00 PM
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Well, I enjoyed your informative thread
 


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