Fork tube swap write up...
#1
02-17-2012, 08:27 PM
Fork tube swap write up...
Well this will be my 1st time actually trying to do a write up. Im not sure if there is a difference in procedure from tri glide to street glide.
Step 1. Get bike level and use a Lift to elevate front end.
Step 2. Remove Ignition switch
( to remove Switch assembly first move to the left in lock position. I do not turn it all the way. This way the bars do not lock. Insert key and turn to the left.
Under the switch there will be a silver tab. Use a small flat screwdriver to push this in.
The switch will then be free to slide up and out. REMEMBER if you turn it while taking it out you will have a problem getting it back in.
Step 3. Next just use a cressant wrench to remove the nut holding down the inner switch assy and set off to the side t goes in this order bottom to top and will only FIT one way
To remove the lower fairing there will be 2 T27 torx screws holding it on from the side. Remove these and turn the bars all the way to one side and work it out, unplug the switches and put rubber grommets off to the side. End result is this.
Next will be to remove the lower outer fairing skirt. You must remove the lower Blinker Torx screws with a T40. Then remove the Lower inner fairing torx screw T27. It is your choice to remove tho complete outer fairing I opted not to.
Step 4. You will remove The front calipers using zip Ties tie them up out the way to whatever you feel is safe. I opted for the steering stabilizer. Remove wheel and fender. If you need details on this take your bike to the dealer and have them do the complete job cause it is self explanatory.
End should look like this except I took the outer fairing skirt off after the photo.
Step 5. Next get a small bucket I used a butter bowl and set under the fork. There is a 6mm allen screw coming from the bottom up..
To loosen the best way I found is put a screw driver in the caliper hole and use a wrench as a leverage bar unless you have a 3-4'' inch socket allen. It doesn't take but a little pressure and it will pop loose. remove it and let it drain..
To help the draining use supplied tool.
Loosen and remove top plug from fork to help the oil drain faster.
Watch your tank if your not careful you will hit and scratch it. Be sure to put it back in after draining so nothing gets in it.
Step 6. Removal of slider. To remove the slider All that is needed is to slide the fork down till it bottoms out. Take a small flat screwdriver and remove the retaining ring.
Then with a hammer affect slide it up and down bottoming out to push seal up and out...
You should end up like this...
Take note the bottom of the shock there is now a sleeve that resembles a bullet. DO NOT LOOSE THIS. it will fall off.
At this point It is up to the discretion of the owner to decide what will be replaced. Being my wife only has a couple thousand mile on it i did not worry about it. IT IS UP TO YOU.
To remove these just use you fingernail and separate a little and it will slid down and over. THIS MUST BE DONE TO REMOVE THE FORK BOOTS WITHOUT TAKING THE COMPLETE FOR OFF.
Pay attention on the order
Step 7. Installing new fork slider. Dab a finger into the fork oil and coat the seat in the top of the slider and around the seal. MAKE SURE THE BULLET LOOKING SHIM IS ON THE BOTTOM STILL. If you have a seal install tool then you are the man and don't need this tutorial. IF you don't you can use a piece of 2" PVC. I opted to cut to 3" long and split it down the middle.
Take and slid the seal in as far by finger. Won't go much. find the bottom out point and slide it up about 2" so there is room to seat it. Get a block of wood or something that you can put under the fork to give it a solid foundation.
Put the PVC around the fork tube and with a hammer tap the seal down slowly being sure to work around it evenly till it is bottomed out at that point you will see the retaining ring seat. Put the ring in and make sure it seats in just as it was before you removed it.
DO NOT FORGET the 6mm allen at this time You may have an issue of it lining up as I did. To fix this I to and ground the tip of the screw to a point.
Tighten it up to required torque specs.
END RESULT ON ONE SIDE
Repeat process for other side...
You have 2 options at this point you can remove the complete fork add oil and put it back in or use a flexible funnel and fill it to specified amount.
To remove the fork is simple at this point And is exactly what I will be doing when adding my fork boot instead of disassemble of the slide from tube.
to replace a fork boot see below.
To do so at this point Just use the wrench supplied from above remove fill caps.
Take a 1/2 drive 3/4 socket break the bolt loose and slide fork out.
Then to remove the Boot Use a 3/8 wrench and a 1/4 drive 3/8 socket
Remove the inside bolt with socket and outside with wrench.
AT THIS POINT I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH FORK OIL TO USE. guess Ill call the dealer.
If anyone feels I have left something out please feel free to add or tell me.
Step 1. Get bike level and use a Lift to elevate front end.
Step 2. Remove Ignition switch
( to remove Switch assembly first move to the left in lock position. I do not turn it all the way. This way the bars do not lock. Insert key and turn to the left.
Under the switch there will be a silver tab. Use a small flat screwdriver to push this in.
The switch will then be free to slide up and out. REMEMBER if you turn it while taking it out you will have a problem getting it back in.
Step 3. Next just use a cressant wrench to remove the nut holding down the inner switch assy and set off to the side t goes in this order bottom to top and will only FIT one way
To remove the lower fairing there will be 2 T27 torx screws holding it on from the side. Remove these and turn the bars all the way to one side and work it out, unplug the switches and put rubber grommets off to the side. End result is this.
Next will be to remove the lower outer fairing skirt. You must remove the lower Blinker Torx screws with a T40. Then remove the Lower inner fairing torx screw T27. It is your choice to remove tho complete outer fairing I opted not to.
Step 4. You will remove The front calipers using zip Ties tie them up out the way to whatever you feel is safe. I opted for the steering stabilizer. Remove wheel and fender. If you need details on this take your bike to the dealer and have them do the complete job cause it is self explanatory.
End should look like this except I took the outer fairing skirt off after the photo.
Step 5. Next get a small bucket I used a butter bowl and set under the fork. There is a 6mm allen screw coming from the bottom up..
To loosen the best way I found is put a screw driver in the caliper hole and use a wrench as a leverage bar unless you have a 3-4'' inch socket allen. It doesn't take but a little pressure and it will pop loose. remove it and let it drain..
To help the draining use supplied tool.
Loosen and remove top plug from fork to help the oil drain faster.
Watch your tank if your not careful you will hit and scratch it. Be sure to put it back in after draining so nothing gets in it.
Step 6. Removal of slider. To remove the slider All that is needed is to slide the fork down till it bottoms out. Take a small flat screwdriver and remove the retaining ring.
Then with a hammer affect slide it up and down bottoming out to push seal up and out...
You should end up like this...
Take note the bottom of the shock there is now a sleeve that resembles a bullet. DO NOT LOOSE THIS. it will fall off.
At this point It is up to the discretion of the owner to decide what will be replaced. Being my wife only has a couple thousand mile on it i did not worry about it. IT IS UP TO YOU.
To remove these just use you fingernail and separate a little and it will slid down and over. THIS MUST BE DONE TO REMOVE THE FORK BOOTS WITHOUT TAKING THE COMPLETE FOR OFF.
Pay attention on the order
Step 7. Installing new fork slider. Dab a finger into the fork oil and coat the seat in the top of the slider and around the seal. MAKE SURE THE BULLET LOOKING SHIM IS ON THE BOTTOM STILL. If you have a seal install tool then you are the man and don't need this tutorial. IF you don't you can use a piece of 2" PVC. I opted to cut to 3" long and split it down the middle.
Take and slid the seal in as far by finger. Won't go much. find the bottom out point and slide it up about 2" so there is room to seat it. Get a block of wood or something that you can put under the fork to give it a solid foundation.
Put the PVC around the fork tube and with a hammer tap the seal down slowly being sure to work around it evenly till it is bottomed out at that point you will see the retaining ring seat. Put the ring in and make sure it seats in just as it was before you removed it.
DO NOT FORGET the 6mm allen at this time You may have an issue of it lining up as I did. To fix this I to and ground the tip of the screw to a point.
Tighten it up to required torque specs.
END RESULT ON ONE SIDE
Repeat process for other side...
You have 2 options at this point you can remove the complete fork add oil and put it back in or use a flexible funnel and fill it to specified amount.
To remove the fork is simple at this point And is exactly what I will be doing when adding my fork boot instead of disassemble of the slide from tube.
to replace a fork boot see below.
To do so at this point Just use the wrench supplied from above remove fill caps.
Take a 1/2 drive 3/4 socket break the bolt loose and slide fork out.
Then to remove the Boot Use a 3/8 wrench and a 1/4 drive 3/8 socket
Remove the inside bolt with socket and outside with wrench.
AT THIS POINT I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH FORK OIL TO USE. guess Ill call the dealer.
If anyone feels I have left something out please feel free to add or tell me.
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02-19-2012, 08:12 AM
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#9
04-17-2012, 07:58 PM
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how muck fork oil did you put in the forks? I did the slider swap and everything went
very well, bike handles great, looks great, the only thing is that I've devoleped
a cluck in the front forks now, it's not real bad, but if you push the front tire up against a wall to make the forks compress you will here the cluck.
I'm wondering if I didn't put enough fork oil in or if i did something wrong.
I used the screaming eagle heavy fork oil if that would make a difference.
any help on this would be very helpfull.
thanks
very well, bike handles great, looks great, the only thing is that I've devoleped
a cluck in the front forks now, it's not real bad, but if you push the front tire up against a wall to make the forks compress you will here the cluck.
I'm wondering if I didn't put enough fork oil in or if i did something wrong.
I used the screaming eagle heavy fork oil if that would make a difference.
any help on this would be very helpfull.
thanks
#10
04-17-2012, 08:14 PM
Put 10oz per side. Now if you swapped out the shocks as well then you should put 11oz per side. It was they call wet and dry. Dry is no oil in shocks or tubes ever and the wet would be as in a service. I also put the oil in and and compressed the shocks a few times so no air was trapped. I havent had a problem with hers as of yet.