Help with changing rear break pads
#2
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
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I haven't done it on a tri-glide, but since all the cars and bikes I've done this to have been pretty much the same, I'd think the tri-glide will be, too. Depending on the caliper style, I use a c-clamp or large water pump pliers, whichever fits best, to squeeze the caliper shut. Either one can scratch the outside of the caliper, so I use some kind of padding material; a piece of leather works real well. If you've been topping off the brake reservoir as the pad wears, you may need to remove some fluid. I watch the level carefully as I close the caliper, stop and remove some if the level starts getting too high. This isn't a problem if you're changing the fluid at the same time, just drain it first. Don't take the cap off the reservoir while closing the caliper either, some fluid may squirt out without the cap on. Squeeze a little, check the level, put the cap back on, repeat as necessary. And remember, conventional brake fluid is a good paint remover, if you didn't know that already. Silicon fluid supposedly doesn't damage paint, but I've been careful not to test that theory. It can be a little tedious with the fluid level if you have to remove some, just have patience and you'll get it right.
#4
You may have to back off on the parking break adjustment a the calipers and the handle, if your not using a shop manual for the Triglide you should get one.
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