I'm thinking about installing an extra plate clutch pack in my 2012 TriGlide. When I started researching my options, I was presented with three options: clutch plates made with standard material, Kevlar, or carbon fiber. To my surprise, the Kevlar and the carbon fiber are within a few dollars of each other and they both appear to be very well suited for Big Twins. To give a little background, my Triglide has pretty much had a Stage 1 upgrade done. I plan to pull a 25 cu. ft. trailer behind it. I'm not into wheelies, hard acceleration, or racing. I'm just a 63 year old guy who wants to tour on my bike with my wife. I don't think that the clutch pack that's made with the standard clutch material is what I want, so I've narrowed it down to either carbon fiber, or Kevlar. Does anybody have any thoughts on which material is most appropriate for my needs? Also, who has the best prices. Thanks for any and all input, comments, or wise cracks
Ride Safe
Mike

 

I have a 2012 TriGlide. I had trouble with the oem clutch. I put in a Barnett 1+, a Hayden Primary Chain Tensioner and a ClutchWiz. See here: http://www.triketalk.com/forum/threa...Chain-Adjuster
Mr. Wizzard can answer all of your questions.. I followed him to the tee, no problems.

 

I agree this is the thread you need!

 

After installing a few dozen I have found no conceivable difference in the performance in the Kevlar as opposed to the Carbon Fiber.

Amazon via Power Motor Sports.

 

Thanks for the answers, guys. I've had trouble with that clutch since the day after I got the bike. Harley dealers got it back three times and each time, they adjusted the clutch and told me that everything was all right. Now that I'm pulling a trailer, I am very sure that the warranty is void. Also, I'm intrigued by Barnett's take on primary fluid. When I replace the clutch will I be good if I use Mobil 1 ATF?

 

Barnett says to use B&M Trickshift. It's thin and will assist with the cooling of the clutch basket. This is correct. The clutch doesn't need lubrication it needs cooling.

Problem is B&M Trick Shift is too thin and will leak through the inner primary seals and possibly through the primary outer gasket.

HD makes Formula+ for the primary. With a dry primary use 30 oz of Formula+ and 15 oz of any type of ATF. Doesn't matter what brand. The Formula+ is thinner than oil and the ATF thins the Formula+ a little more making a perfect combination of friction protection and cooling.

The ONLY issue I've had when doing this modification is some bikes have a hard time finding neutral until well after the clutch disc's wear in. To fix that from the start you remove the Damper Spring and leave the Damper Washer in. This releases some of the tension on the clutch plates which allows you to find neutral.

This is the Damper Spring. It is the first thin washer behind the last small clutch disc. It is slightly concave. The Damper Washer is the same size but flat. Leave in the Damper Washer.

 

I recently replaced the diaphram clutch spring with a Barnett Spring conversion kit as well as a Hayden tensioner. Bike has 32K and finding neutral was a chore. I noticed since I bought it new there was no play in the cable. When replacing the spring, the jam nut was on the adjustment rod so tight I took it to an Indy to impact the jam nut from the shaft. With the Barnett conversion and Hayden tensioner I can now find neutral without blipping the throttle. Running a 70/30 ratio of HD primary with Dexron. Works for me.

 

I sent an e-mail to Barnett Tool and Engineering yesterday to find out their feelings on oil to use for their clutch. Here is what Barnett's guy had to say:

"Problem with Formula Plus is the plates tick together so hard to find neutral and to shift. ATF Type F is more aggressive then Dextron is. Both work fine. Also any other oil designed to use in a motorcycle wet clutch application will be fine

I don't agree with mixing oils though!"

I guess that I'm just going to have to try something even if it is wrong!
Mike

 

They say that due to the cold weather climate some people live in.


Formula+ with a mix of ATF works just fine but I'm in a warm climate. Although I rode this winter when it was below freezing I had no issues.

Use what you want to use but if you are still having issues finding neutral then remove the damper spring.

 

another double post due to software error