On my '12 TG I had the H-D race tuner, Fatshotz slip-ons, SE air cleaner put on before I picked up the bike due to all the posts on the Trike forum. I don't think I really needed all that, so with the '14 TG all I've done is the floor board spacers and a "crotch cooler like I did on the '12. I also think I have a higher tolerance for heat then most riders.
I'm not having a heat issue.
Try going with the less expensive route first before doing the cat swap and other engine mods.
Trikes are a lot warmer then the other models.
I have heard good thinks about the Wards fans and if I were to go to other cooling means, it would be those fans......not the H-D fan. From what I hear all that one does is blow hot air onto your right leg making it more uncomfortable.

 

Thanks Gary, I'll keep that recommendation in mind. So this past weekend I installed the lift kit from Dennis and it was a snap, as he says follow the instructions and all will go well. Upon finishing that I went to adjust my air shock pressure and I was at zero. Took the bike to the HD dealer and they set it up for 35#. (I did buy the air pump to check and adjust pressure myself). Went for a ride and it was great. A couple of days later I checked the air shock pressure and it had dropped 15#. Wow!. I adjusted it back to 35#. I have searched this site for air shock leaks and can't find a thread. So how often should the air shocks be looked at to check pressure. I remember air shocks on cars and it would be months before they needed refilling. I would assume the air in these shocks to hold a few weeks if not months, but what is the concensus out there?

 

I have owned my 2014 Trike since October of 2013. I have not yet had to readjust the 25# of pressure I have in my shocks. It has held since leaving the dealership and I have the hand pump to check so I do not lose pressure each time i check it which has been once a month when I check tire pressures.
Hope this helps.
Frank

 

I had the same leaking problem. Told the service department about it and they reseated all the lines during the 1000 mile service. No issues since.

 

Thanks guys, I guess its back to the dealership to find/fix the leak.

 

I have a 2011 TriGlide. Reverse motor went bad recently. Glad I had the extended warranty. Motor alone was $1,483.00. Ouch......

 

I think with the TG you almost have to have the extended warrantee. IMHO

 

Just a thing that showed up on a long vacation ride that you may want to watch out for.

It seemed that the button to release the trunk latch was getting a bit slow to pop back out. So when you'd close the trunk, the latch may not be fully engaging the pin in the trunk. If the button isn't fully out, it keeps the latch from fully engaging the pin. So unless it's FULLY out, the latch is NOT fully engaged. It popped open on us once on a bump before we left, but I thought it was our fault, not getting it shut hard enough.

Then we hit a dust storm on the long trip out west, and it got worse, enough that the trunk popped open a couple of times on some large bumps. Fortunately we didn't lose anything (because it was packed so darned tight, but that's another story.) The first time someone flagged us down, and the second time we felt it.

A couple of squirts of graphite lock lube and some exercising and it was better. It still seemed a bit slow to come back out. You can pull out on it prior to shutting the trunk, haven't had it open up since. You may want to lube yours. Just an FYI.

 

I had the same problem with my trunk door opening on bumps. There is a set ring on the stem of the latch on the door. You can loosen it and adjust the shaft to extend out making it slide and lock snug. With mine the shaft did not lock into the opening of the latch. Works good so far.

 

This was an ongoing problem on older TG's. What I found was the lock doesn't engage completely and people were slamming the door shut. I took a lesson from my VW bug days. In order to close a door, you had to quickly shut the door to just about fully closed, then stop(letting the air out)and then close the door normally - worked every single time.
I do that with my TG's trunk door with the exception of quickly closing the door(it's not air tight like the VW). Just close it normally and then give it a good push until you hear the click. I believe that will take care of the problem.....unless it is a defective part.

Good luck.