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103 cu. in. to 110 cu.in Modification

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  #21  
Old 03-13-2011, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddy WMC
If you also look at many of the posts by the Socko's, you'll read about refused warranty issues they had because M3 did the work. M1 and M3, please correct me if I'm mistaken. I just chose to stay with the listed mods and HD parts to keep my warranty intact. The Fuelmoto header was not an issue with my dealer.
Your right on the money, I started this thread https://www.hdforums.com/forum/tri-glide-models/556098-warranty-and-modifications-food-for-though.html last August about some of the issues we had with the lame dealer we used to do business with. Some dealers are good about people who work on their own, and others seem to have a fit either because their mechanics are a group of parts changers that don't have very good trouble shooting abilities, such as the dealer we used to do business with. Then there are dealer who have true mechanics who can trouble shoot and don't have any issues with the owner turning a wrench or two. The dealer we moved our business to doesn't have any issues with us turning wrenches, we told them right up front we do a lot of our own work and they thought it was cool, but then their also a bunch of gear heads.
 
  #22  
Old 03-16-2011, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by tbob
I think the 120R motor would be a better choice over the 110 for the money.
+1 on the 120R. Plus you still have your original complete 103. The cost for the 120r would be around 2k more then the 110 conversion. But you will still have your 103 motor which is worth 3k+. But if it were me id keep the 103. The cost to install the 120r would be around the same as doing the 110. Around 20 hours labor. I bought a SE 113 kit last year before the 120r engine was offered. Paid $ 2,500 plus tax for the 113 kit. It's for sale 2k free shipping. Comes with heads, cams, pistons, Throttle Body, injectors and tuner retailed for over 3K. Two weeks after I bought the 113 kit the 120r moter is offered for around under 5k. After all this writting I would stay with the 103 do cams, header pipe, slipons, air cleaner and down load. As far as the 30tooth sprocket I personaly don't need it. I weigh 185 lbs ride mostly solo, don't have my trike loaded down With luggage and bling. I have know problems getting out of the hole. Plus I like my top end speed. Each to his own. We all have are different ways of riding. We have a member CubBear she and her Husband Mac God Bless him. Rode all ove the USA and Canada put 25K on there stock 09 Tri Glide.In a years time. There bigest problem was a leaky trunk. Congrats and lots of luck on your new Trike.
 

Last edited by carlo; 03-16-2011 at 05:31 AM.
  #23  
Old 03-17-2011, 10:02 PM
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We did the Fullsac pipe, stage 1 air, Wood 555 cams and TTS all at the same time on my wife's 2010 Triglide and saw a nice increase in get up and go. At the same time I had a 103 build on my '09 Heritage with 255 cams. Totally different weight and three tires on the road vs two, but both builds were a big difference. If I did it again, I'd probably go with the Wood 555 on my Heritage only because the Fuelmoto dyno results looked a little better than what came out of my bike!
 
  #24  
Old 03-18-2011, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by blade76
We did the Fullsac pipe, stage 1 air, Wood 555 cams and TTS all at the same time on my wife's 2010 Triglide and saw a nice increase in get up and go. At the same time I had a 103 build on my '09 Heritage with 255 cams. Totally different weight and three tires on the road vs two, but both builds were a big difference. If I did it again, I'd probably go with the Wood 555 on my Heritage only because the Fuelmoto dyno results looked a little better than what came out of my bike!
Did you have your TG on a dyno and if so what were the numbers??
 
  #25  
Old 01-02-2012, 10:15 PM
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Default Woods 555 vs Andrews 54

If your thinking about a Woods 555, I suggest you look at the Andrews 54. The cams are almost identical. There is a Dyno comparison on here and the Andrews actually made a bit more on the top end. Save yourself the $100. The Dyno sheet Jamie from Fuel Moto posts was a perfect day, and his Dyno posts BIG numbers.
My best advice be very wary of any and all Dyno claims. Most are BS.
With that said, it is a nice package for a lot of folks. I have built many with the Andrews 54.
The SE255 cams are absolutely done at 4000RPM. Not a fan. Might be ok for a trike.
On a trike the best modification you can make is instal a Baker DD7 Trans. Do some research, and you will get much more bang for he buck. Remember we don't ride dynos, we ride motorcycles.
It is the same principle as a hot rod car, you can hav the baddest motor, but not paired with the right transmission and gear, your have nothing.
 
  #26  
Old 01-03-2012, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Harleydave12003
If your thinking about a Woods 555, I suggest you look at the Andrews 54. The cams are almost identical. There is a Dyno comparison on here and the Andrews actually made a bit more on the top end. Save yourself the $100. The Dyno sheet Jamie from Fuel Moto posts was a perfect day, and his Dyno posts BIG numbers.
My best advice be very wary of any and all Dyno claims. Most are BS.
With that said, it is a nice package for a lot of folks. I have built many with the Andrews 54.
The SE255 cams are absolutely done at 4000RPM. Not a fan. Might be ok for a trike.
On a trike the best modification you can make is instal a Baker DD7 Trans. Do some research, and you will get much more bang for he buck. Remember we don't ride dynos, we ride motorcycles.
It is the same principle as a hot rod car, you can hav the baddest motor, but not paired with the right transmission and gear, your have nothing.
I agree we don't ride dynos, and some folks say the Andrews 54 doesn't come alive until you get 10.3 - 10.5 compression, then there are those who like it fine bolted in with no other changes, its a mixed bag. For my use the Wood 555 a good tune and a 30 tooth transmission sprocket was the ticket, I can pull my trailer with ease and pass cars with out wondering if I have enough room. On the 2011 and present Trikes they already have the 30 tooth sprocket so they have decent gearing. Myself I wouldn't spend the money on a DD7, $2,500+ for the gear set is a bit of scratch, some folks I've chatted with who installed the DD7 said if they had to do it again they'd pass.
 
  #27  
Old 01-03-2012, 10:46 AM
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My 2010 runs great with the SE 255 and 30 tooth, air and exhaust. I ride two up all the time and it pulls great.
 
  #28  
Old 01-03-2012, 05:28 PM
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Default Fuelmoto 107

I installed the Fuelmoto headpipe, slip-on mufflers, A/C and PowerCommander V myself. It helped with the heat.
Later, I drove it to Little Chute, WI and had Fuelmoto install their 107 kit. It's very reasonable in price, increased the performance significantly, took only 1 day to do it, and gave me an excuse to take a nice round-trip ride. It includes a larger bore, new pistons and rings, TW-555 cam, adjustable push-rods, gaskets and labor. They installed a Bailsey oil pump spring while it was apart.
I have several thousand miles on it now and it runs very well, quiet valve train noise, wheelies in first gear when I get a little stupid and has a slight lope at idle. It's well thought out, proven and priced right. I like it and I'd do it again.
 
  #29  
Old 01-04-2012, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockwall TG John
My 2010 runs great with the SE 255 and 30 tooth, air and exhaust. I ride two up all the time and it pulls great.
Same here. Pretty happy with the results @ 10,000+ miles on the clock. To me the 30 tooth had more impact than the cam...
 
  #30  
Old 01-04-2012, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBobs
Same here. Pretty happy with the results @ 10,000+ miles on the clock. To me the 30 tooth had more impact than the cam...
I believe you are %100 correct. The 30 tooth sprocket had a major impact on the performance of the TG.
 


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