Bought my new RCwheels, pulley and floating rotor from WanaRyde last spring.
I went for the best, so I thought, forged billet chromed everything.
When I mounted them on my 2015 FLSTC and dialed the rotors, the rear rotor was out .021, harley spec is .008 max. Holy crap.
The front rotor was .017 Double holy crap
The pulley was out .012
I took off the rear rotor and the hub was out .006.

I other words I have a bunch of junk on my hands.

I had waited so long to get the new wheels and tires that I had to buy new tires for my spoke wheels to continue riding.

The whole set up was sent back to RC and they remade the order.
I was waiting a long time to get things back so I called WanaRyde to see what was up. They said that they were working on getting the new front rotor closer to spec and the best they could do was .012. That's 1.5 out of spec!

It's getting close to needing new tires for this riding season and I have been so pissed with pouring 3500 down the sewer that I get sick when I think about opening the boxes again.

I did have an interesting conversation with WanaRyde and they claimed that no aftermarket wheel mfg builds to Harley spec. Max run out of .008
I asked what spec did they use and there was silence.


I find this hard to believe after all these wheels are made per order on a CNC machine. How can this stuff get out the door esp when it affects the safety of the motorcycle.

I've been quiet about this subject far too long because it is depressing to have been taken for so much $$.

 

Oh yeah, I did not include my question. Has anyone else heard the claim that none of the after market wheel makers manufacture to HD spec?

 

Interested to see the result of your findings.

 

We shoot for perfection. If it's not perfect, it doesn't leave the shop.

 

Honestly, it sounds like the hubs aren't accurate, and the runout on the rotor is the byproduct of the hub error by the time you reach the end of the rotor. The rotors are probably OK. You'd have to clock them 180 to see.

Are the rims true? The rotors are 1 piece, I presume. Rotor runout isn't a major issue by itself, since the caliper will follow the runout, but it's nice (and perfectly reasonable to expect) to be on spec to start with, since runout will eventually result in noise or pulsation. Brake pulsation doesn't usually come from rotor runout right away, unless and until the runout digs the rotor and makes a thickness variation. Then, it'll pulsate on brake apply. The first noticeable symptom of rotor runout will be a slightly lower brake grab, as the wobbly rotor will push the pads back a few thousandths of an inch, which adds clearance to the brake when you grab it next time.

 

What you do with your product is what I had expected RC components to do.
Do I have to ask that their high dollar premium forged billet wheel be made true? I assumed wrong that they know or care about what they build. $3500.00 is a high rice to pay for "that's the best that they can do".

I dialed out the hub on the rear wheel initially because I took off the rotor to check the hub knowing that runout in a hub would multiply itself by the time you got to the 11.5" rotor. I could not break everything apart because then " the customer messed it all up". I know how that game is played.
By the way I work in a highly technical field where I am no stranger to runout and dial indicators.



Like I said RC remade the whole order and WanaRyde admitted that they could only get the front rotor to .012. They would not comment on anything else before they reshipped the wheels. If they could not get it right I simply wanted a refund. NFW.

As far a checking all that you say, trying to get info from RC or WanaRyde about what went wrong is like asking the Pentagon if you could see a classified document. It was as if WannaRyde was afraid to question RC, RC would not respond to me at all.

Moral of this story, If it don't say HD on it I will not touch it with a ten foot pole.
Too bad one sloppy wheel maker has taken me completely out of the non branded after market arena.
Thank you for your reply and keep up the good work.

 

I forgot to mention that I dialed out the front and rear stock rotors on my 2015 FLSTC and they were .002 for the rear and .001 front.

 

Hey Steve, We do our best to help our customers but sometimes the manufacturers just limit what we can do. If I remember correctly, these were floating rotors by RC Comp. Rc components claims that their floating rotors are able to be up to 20 thousandths out. Yes we did get everything back to Rc comp, they remade it and they said everything was within spec. When we got them back, we attempted to dial them in better than how we received them back. We got them allot closer to Harley spec but not under them.

We have two trained professionals in house here and we test every wheel whether it's our brand or NOT. (This is something none of of our online competitors do but we do it to further ensure the product is good per the manufacturer specs) Based on RC Components other tolerances and since they're the floating rotor style, they tell us these products are fine and within their specs. So our hands are tied.... were stuck in the middle here.

If I also remember correctly, these products had never been ran on the bike. Maybe installed but not run... I don't remember their ever being a symptom of something being wrong. Based on everything Rc is telling us, these should work great once run on the bike and that "it's just the rotor design" that allows it to move and float more than a stock HD setup causing a reading over 8 thou. (I will admit you can grab that rotor ring that floats and pull on it and it will move 20 thou)

Its also important to note, Ride Wright mentioned above that the runout could be bad on the hubs. The hubs were definitely within spec and were good when tested by our crew. Again RC stated the runout that you're seeing is just in the stainless rings floating on the rotor center and again RC Comp says they're good.

If you've installed them on the bike and have run them and have a symptom of something being wrong, this will give WanaRyd more ammunition to go back to RC and say it actually is a problem because again, according to RC they are going to be great when they're ran on the bike.

 

I agree with WanaRyd in that floating rotors really have runout by their inherent nature. Since they do float (many do so rather loosely!), they won't beat the pads back, or give pulsation or low brake UNLESS there's thickness variation. Runout on a floating rotor just isn't an issue by itself. If the rotors mike out the same thickness in 8 places around the surface, then run them and they'll be just fine.

 

It'd be interesting to indicate the inner (fixed) part of the rotors if there's a spot along the perimeter to put the dial indicator.