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Tire HELP!! Belted, Bias, Radial??

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Old 02-22-2010, 11:57 AM
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Default Tire HELP!! Belted, Bias, Radial??

I am having trouble understanding the differences between Belted, Bias, and Radials. I kinda get Bias vs Radial, (Radials seem to have softer side walls), but on the Dunlop fitment info it says my rear is Belted?? Everyone has said don't mix Bias and Radial tires, although some bikes come with Radials on rear and Bias on the front. That's what I did with mine. I put an ME 880 Marathon 170/60R 17 (Radial) on the rear, and a 90/90 21 (Bias) on the front. Metzeler does not make a 21" Radial for the front. It just feels like my back end is always swaying back and forth at freeway speed.

I have an 06 Dyna Wide Glide. The rear had a Dunlop K591 160/70 B17. The front had a Dunlop MH90 21. I think they were both Bias tires. After reading all the posts about how much better Metzeler's are for longevity I have tried to switch. Man have I made work for myself!! The 17" rear rim size limits a lot of other choices.

I've got it down from a high speed death wobble over 70 mph to an annoying, unsteady feeling like when you have heavy winds buffeting you on the freeway, or maybe like when a tire is low on air.

Note: Could a lack of fork oil be doing this?? Maybe the softer side wall rear tire is magnifying a soft front fork issue. I have noticed lately that my front fork oil has possibly leaked out. I had a Progressive lowering spring kit installed about 18,000 miles ago by a small shop. It does feel really soft with a lot of spring travel and the forks have been a little wet. There does not appear to be any way to check the fork oil or seals without just doing all the labor again. Our local "Reputable" shops want about $500.00.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:32 PM
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Rather than try to understand what the various tyre constructions mean I stay with the tyres recommended by my preferred brand. Makes life much easier! Take a look at Metezeler's website and see what they recommend for your bike. They may also suggest different pressures to the stock Dunlops.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:43 PM
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my 09 dyna came with a dunlop always felt like I was sliding through the corners. changed to a michlin and I can rub the footpegs now and feel safe.
 
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:34 PM
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I have been to the Metzeler site sooooooo many times trying to understand my wobble and stability problem that it's ridiculous! Everyone will gladly tell you what is recommended by the Dealer and what you should have done. All of that is not very helpful if you deviated a little and are trying to correct a problem. Who has, or even want's a completely stock Harley. Yes, in hindsite, I probably should have stayed with the Dunlops. I now have two new Metzelers installed and don't want to just throw them away and put Dunlops on. It may be that I have a radial on the back of a Harley and it just won't work. That's why I am asking questions. I am sure that there is someone out there that has had this problem and corrected it.
 
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Old 02-23-2010, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by C&S 75
I have been to the Metzeler site sooooooo many times trying to understand my wobble and stability problem that it's ridiculous! Everyone will gladly tell you what is recommended by the Dealer and what you should have done. All of that is not very helpful if you deviated a little and are trying to correct a problem. Who has, or even want's a completely stock Harley. Yes, in hindsite, I probably should have stayed with the Dunlops. I now have two new Metzelers installed and don't want to just throw them away and put Dunlops on. It may be that I have a radial on the back of a Harley and it just won't work. That's why I am asking questions. I am sure that there is someone out there that has had this problem and corrected it.
I have owned Harleys since the 70s, when they came new on Goodyears and have never fitted stock tyres when buying replacements! So I am with you there, but personally prefer Avons. I have just fitted a 150 rear, to replace the stock MT, but used one from a part of their range as recommended by Avon, so there is no problem with construction type.

If your bike is handling differently from when you had the Dunlops, it is fair to assume the Metzelers are the cause. Do they recommend different tyre pressures from the stock Dunlops? (Avon use higher pressures). Other than checking that your bike is in top shape, such as wheel alignment OK, steering bearings adjusted right, etc, you may have to come to terms with throwing those tyres away. Over the years, I have done just that with Metzelers and Pirellis (not current versions), which is why I use and love Avons.
 
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by C&S 75
I am having trouble understanding the differences between Belted, Bias, and Radials. I kinda get Bias vs Radial, (Radials seem to have softer side walls), but on the Dunlop fitment info it says my rear is Belted?? Everyone has said don't mix Bias and Radial tires, although some bikes come with Radials on rear and Bias on the front. That's what I did with mine. I put an ME 880 Marathon 170/60R 17 (Radial) on the rear, and a 90/90 21 (Bias) on the front. Metzeler does not make a 21" Radial for the front. It just feels like my back end is always swaying back and forth at freeway speed.

I have an 06 Dyna Wide Glide. The rear had a Dunlop K591 160/70 B17. The front had a Dunlop MH90 21. I think they were both Bias tires. After reading all the posts about how much better Metzeler's are for longevity I have tried to switch. Man have I made work for myself!! The 17" rear rim size limits a lot of other choices.

I've got it down from a high speed death wobble over 70 mph to an annoying, unsteady feeling like when you have heavy winds buffeting you on the freeway, or maybe like when a tire is low on air.

Note: Could a lack of fork oil be doing this?? Maybe the softer side wall rear tire is magnifying a soft front fork issue. I have noticed lately that my front fork oil has possibly leaked out. I had a Progressive lowering spring kit installed about 18,000 miles ago by a small shop. It does feel really soft with a lot of spring travel and the forks have been a little wet. There does not appear to be any way to check the fork oil or seals without just doing all the labor again. Our local "Reputable" shops want about $500.00.

I remember your post from last month about the "wobble" on your Dyna. Did you ever read my response? If so, did you pay any heed to what I said?

I am re-posting my original reply (after finding your original post) for your (and everyone else's) convenience. Please read and consider.

***************************************
***************************************

The old caveat has long been not to mix bias ply with radial tires. However, that has been slowly changing. If the fitment has been actually tested and given the green light by either the bike manufacturer or the tire manufacturer, then it is OK.

The stock rear on a 2006 Dyna Wide Glide is a 160/70B17 BIAS PLY. According to the Metzeler website, this is still the only approved fitment for your bike by them. They cannot recommend anything else to you. It's a liablity thing.

Now, just because it isn't an approved fitment does not necessarily mean that this is why you had such a severe wobble. But another big red flag went up when I read you were using a tube in a radial...tire manufacturers are picky about what tube to use and in what manner, again for liability reasons.

Taken from the Metzeler Tire Guide:

Conditions for fitment of Metzeler tubes in Metzeler radial tires are as follows:

01. Metzeler Racing, Sport and Sport Touring radial tires are not to be used with tubes

** You are OK here, you are using an ME 880 Marathon

02. Use only Metzeler tubes with Metzeler tires.

** BIG problem for you. You stated you are using a heavy-duty Michelin tube. The reasons are obvious. If there is a tire issue or failure that is found to be due to the tube, the tube is of another manufacturer, so Metzeler has no liability and therefore cannot help you.

03. Maximum motorcycle speed permitted after the installation of Metzeler tubes in Metzeler tires is 120 mph.

** should not be an issue for 99 percent of cruiser riders

04. Existing tire and tube specifications of the motorcycle manufacturer must be maintained.

** I don't see a problem, here

05. Never repair a punctured/damaged tubless tire with a tube or by any other means

** does not apply in this case




So, two obvious issues to look at:

1) the apparent misapplication of the tire for the bike, and

2) the use of another manufacturer's tube contrary to the manufacturer of the tire it is inserted in




Check these out, but don't also discount what has already been said. Improper mounting and such could also be a factor.






Cheers
 
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