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rotor runout warranty or not?

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Old 04-10-2011, 09:40 AM
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Default rotor runout warranty or not?

I have the maintenance manual, and according to page 1-33, the max brake disc lateral runout on a 2009 Ultra Classic is 0.008" measured at the outside diameter or the rotor.

If the bike is still under warranty, are these parts covered under the unlimited warranty, or is it like spark plugs, an expendable item??
 
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:09 PM
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Anybody know if the rotor, if out of spec, is covered under th warranty??
 
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:02 PM
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Doubt if it would be covered, as warpage can occur from extremely heavy use, abuse. Ask your dealer.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:20 AM
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If it is not covered under warranty, before replacing the rotor, you can try to straighten it. Get the wheel off the ground. Use a dial indicator to find the high spot and tap lightly with a leather (or rubber) mallet. Re-check. It may take a few minutes, but I have had success doing this when the rotor is only slightly out of spec.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:52 AM
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Default Specification

Originally Posted by rh8234
If it is not covered under warranty, before replacing the rotor, you can try to straighten it. Get the wheel off the ground. Use a dial indicator to find the high spot and tap lightly with a leather (or rubber) mallet. Re-check. It may take a few minutes, but I have had success doing this when the rotor is only slightly out of spec.
My left front rotor runout is only 0.002 which is OK but my right front is 0.115 out, (0.008 max allowed) which is probably what I am feeling when I put on the front brakes. Is this too far out to tap back into place? Secondly, do both sides need to be replaced if I can't get the right side into spec, or worse yet, make it worse? How hard is it to do with ABS brakes?
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Sandcrab
...my right front is 0.115 out, (0.008 max allowed) which is probably what I am feeling when I put on the front brakes. Is this too far out to tap back into place?...
.115 runout? You'd have to run into something to make it that bad! And you wouldn't need a dial indicator to see it.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:02 AM
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I have no ABS experience. The .115 runout is not too far to tap back not spec. If you do replace the rotor, you can replace only the warped one. No need to do both. Just be careful not to damage the good one when you are working on the warped one. THEY BEND EASILY!!! Lay a couple 2x4's on the garage floor and place the wheel on them so that the good rotor does not touch the floor. If you do replace the rotor, use new bolts. Do not re-use the existing ones. When you buy the new bolts, they will come with the locktitealready applied. Torque them to spec.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by lo-rider
.115 runout? You'd have to run into something to make it that bad! And you wouldn't need a dial indicator to see it.
I think I would have remembered if I ran into something, but I did have the front tire replaced twice in 14K miles. Maybe when they removed the tire, they bent it, I don't know.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 12:42 PM
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When changing a tire, it is VERY easy to bend a rotor! That's why I change my own tires. I always know who to blame for the screw-ups.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 06:53 PM
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Default Tap tap whack

Originally Posted by rh8234
I have no ABS experience. The .115 runout is not too far to tap back not spec.
Well, the rotor was bent inward, so I took a 1" piece of soft pine and put it through the wheel and tapped it outward. It moved about .020, so tapped it again, and it went about .030 on the second tap. So now I have confidence that I was doing the right thing, and did it again and it is now only out about 0.020, but I think I need to tap it in two places maybe 60 degrees apart to get it any better.

The wheel however now spins more freely without the "easy then hard" feeling I had earlier. I decided to wait until I could ride it and see how it feels before I do anymore tapping.

Thanks for the tip on taping it, that was good advice. Thanks
 


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