So I have had a scraping noise "scrape, scrape, scrape" while rolling to a stop for a long time. The noise goes away when I apply the brakes. I have read a lot about it and have cleaned the calipers a dozen times and scuffed the pads, it gets ok for a couple of days then returns. I have HD chrome calipers on there since the prior owner bought it new.

The fact that the noise is not constant but appears to follow a warped rotor, I decided to change the rotors as I found good deal on PM one piece rotors brand new on Ebay.

I am planning on going with the Lyndall Z+ pads and changing the rotors as soon as it warms up. Is there anything I ned to watch out for and should I change the original front wheel bearings with 30,000 miles on them while it is apart. While the wheel is off I was going to really clean the caliper pistons and seals. What brake fluid is stock and should I replace the fluid while its apart? I really didnt want to drain all the fluid in the lines just siphon the fluid from the master cylinder and replace it with new. What kind of DOT fluid does it take.

Your help is appreciated. Thanks

 

anything??????

 

DOT 5 is the specified fluid. I would rebuild the calipers & MC, cost about $25 ea. for rebuild kits. No special tools needed. Makes a big difference in performance and feel after rebuild. The wheel bearings should be ok.

 

Considering HD recommends changing the brake fluid every two years, I would bleed/change the whole system. Get speed bleeders and install when you service the calipers. I agree with above and get the seal rebuild kit. Consider floating rotors too.

 

Get your self a $10.00 Harbour Freight dial indicator and 0-1 micrometer. Then check your rotors for run out and see how parallel the are ever 45 degrees or so. Make sure they are not too thin. Mine were at minimum at 35K. If the run-out is in tolerance, more then likely being a 03, the pistons should be blown out and checked for rust. If it all looks good, then rebuild with new rubber. Rebuild master with the complete kit. Drain all the fluid and forget clean seals. The you will have a new system that will last another 11 years.

 

The new brake "feel" after changing all the fluid and a good bleed is worth the time.

 

I Already got the Performance Machine rotors, They are going on, some say to use new rotor bolts but I dont see why. My real questions was the brake fluid and the wheel bearings. Youtube shows the bearing change process but requires special tools. I am afraid of draining all the fluid as getting the whole system blead out of all air bubbles seems impossible.

 

It's not impossible, just may take a little time. Get the speed bleeders and you won't have to worry about air bubbles as it makes it much easier. Some say don't worry about new bolts, but to me it's cheap insurance as they do stretch, etc.

 

Where in NH are you?

 

No problem to get air out. Very simple one man operation on a Harley since you can pump it up and simple break the bleeder with the other hand. Just have a piece of clear tigon tubing over the bleeder in a jar. Have the bleeder broke and an open box wrench position in the correct position to loosen about 45 degrees. As the lever or brake pedal get close to the bottom, turn the wrench back lightly snug and re-pump it back up. A couple time, refill cylinders. The cap on a Harley master cylinder needs to be loose doing this since it does not have an air bleed on it. There is a slit on the upper side of the gasket that allows air to reach the center top above the flexible bellow. However to bleed the system, cap needs to be loose. That is why you hear of people having trouble. The reason I mentioned above in my other post to check rotors was to find out what your problem was. If the bolts look good they can probably be used with proper loctite. Usually, removing them breaks the finish. I really do not believe you really stretch a grade 5 steel bolt in an aluminum hub. I think they actually are grade 8 but the modified button head kicks them back to 5. The drive pulley is grade 8 and that is why it has the hex. However if the torx is all rusty or the threads rust later in the holes, the next time may just need new rims if the threads come out with the bolts. Only easy way I can get them out is with my impact wrench. The new replacement may come with the dry loctite on them. If the seals are good and the bearings tight and smooth they can be reused. They are easy to check with wheels off. Not sure what bearing you have. Softail double row bearing like on my 04 easily go 100K if they are not pressure washed. Some of the single row newer setups are not so durable.