Wobble after new wheels/tires
#1
Wobble after new wheels/tires
I'm getting a noticable high speed wobble around 75 mph especially on right hand curves after doing a couple of different projects on my '08 Deluxe.
I just got back from Sturgis and both tires were shot. I only replaced the tire on the front (it was a 21" Vee Rubber tire) with the same model but I'm not sure if he zeroed it out or not. He was evasive when I asked him and said he did but that most Vee Rubber tires are good to go and don't need it. :/ I don't think this is the issue anyways.
I had the stock rear tire so I decided to replace it and got a deal (from the same guy that supposedly zeroed out my new front tire) on a new Ride Wright wheel with a Dunlop WW Tire of the same size as the original. I was following my service manual to replace it myself.
Where I messed up was I over-torqued the rear axle nut big time (to the point that I stripped it.) I set my torque wrench to 100 Ft-Lbs according to the service manual's specs and my torque wrench never clicked! (The max setting was marked as 100 Ft-Lbs so I think it wasn't able to do it on hindsight). I have since purchased a torque wrench that maxes out at 250. I tightened the nut so tight that it was not flush with the swing arm (slight gap at the back of the nut - I've included a picture of that). I finally realized I was screwing up and stopped where I was. I was able to tension the belt with the same number of turns that I used to take the wheel off (15 turns on each tensioner bolt) and checked it using the recommended tension gauge. This is important later.
I realized I had forgot to install my swing arm covers so I had to remove the rear axle nut again. When I did, I had to use a breaker bar ALL the way through the unscrewing process. The nut threads had stripped from the amount of torque that I had put on it. Luckily, I did not strip the axle threads. I got a new 24mm nut and it threaded right on. Unfortunately, the same number of turns on the tensioner screws no longer comes even close to tensioning the belt. I had to max out the tensioner bolts in order to tension the belt properly. Also, the tension belt is now scraping a groove into my plastic debris deflector which tells me that the rear wheel is definitely out of alignment.
I have no idea how many parts I screwed up here and I just need help with where to start. I was going to start by ordering a chrome swing arm to replace the swing arm that I obviously bent since I could at least get some satisfaction out of changing it to chrome. But why do I have to max out my tensioner bolts just to get tension in the belt? Also, is there a possibility that it's something simpler and cheaper like maybe I crushed the wheel bearings with all that pressure? Or did my frame move and is there an adjustment bolt to realign it somewhere? Or possibly something more expensive like screwing up something with the other sprocket. Did I stretch the belt somehow? Maybe, also, since both tires and the rear wheel are new additions, is it possible the wobble is coming from something like the tires not being true. I kind of doubt this theory with the tension belt being so obviously misaligned.
I've included a few pictures of the belt rubbing a little groove in the debris deflector and the gap in the rear axle nut. Any help would be very much appreciated. Obviously I won't be riding it anymore until this issue is addressed and solved and I only put about 2 hours on it before I realized something is bad wrong so hopefully I haven't caused any more damage.
I just got back from Sturgis and both tires were shot. I only replaced the tire on the front (it was a 21" Vee Rubber tire) with the same model but I'm not sure if he zeroed it out or not. He was evasive when I asked him and said he did but that most Vee Rubber tires are good to go and don't need it. :/ I don't think this is the issue anyways.
I had the stock rear tire so I decided to replace it and got a deal (from the same guy that supposedly zeroed out my new front tire) on a new Ride Wright wheel with a Dunlop WW Tire of the same size as the original. I was following my service manual to replace it myself.
Where I messed up was I over-torqued the rear axle nut big time (to the point that I stripped it.) I set my torque wrench to 100 Ft-Lbs according to the service manual's specs and my torque wrench never clicked! (The max setting was marked as 100 Ft-Lbs so I think it wasn't able to do it on hindsight). I have since purchased a torque wrench that maxes out at 250. I tightened the nut so tight that it was not flush with the swing arm (slight gap at the back of the nut - I've included a picture of that). I finally realized I was screwing up and stopped where I was. I was able to tension the belt with the same number of turns that I used to take the wheel off (15 turns on each tensioner bolt) and checked it using the recommended tension gauge. This is important later.
I realized I had forgot to install my swing arm covers so I had to remove the rear axle nut again. When I did, I had to use a breaker bar ALL the way through the unscrewing process. The nut threads had stripped from the amount of torque that I had put on it. Luckily, I did not strip the axle threads. I got a new 24mm nut and it threaded right on. Unfortunately, the same number of turns on the tensioner screws no longer comes even close to tensioning the belt. I had to max out the tensioner bolts in order to tension the belt properly. Also, the tension belt is now scraping a groove into my plastic debris deflector which tells me that the rear wheel is definitely out of alignment.
I have no idea how many parts I screwed up here and I just need help with where to start. I was going to start by ordering a chrome swing arm to replace the swing arm that I obviously bent since I could at least get some satisfaction out of changing it to chrome. But why do I have to max out my tensioner bolts just to get tension in the belt? Also, is there a possibility that it's something simpler and cheaper like maybe I crushed the wheel bearings with all that pressure? Or did my frame move and is there an adjustment bolt to realign it somewhere? Or possibly something more expensive like screwing up something with the other sprocket. Did I stretch the belt somehow? Maybe, also, since both tires and the rear wheel are new additions, is it possible the wobble is coming from something like the tires not being true. I kind of doubt this theory with the tension belt being so obviously misaligned.
I've included a few pictures of the belt rubbing a little groove in the debris deflector and the gap in the rear axle nut. Any help would be very much appreciated. Obviously I won't be riding it anymore until this issue is addressed and solved and I only put about 2 hours on it before I realized something is bad wrong so hopefully I haven't caused any more damage.
#2
Swing Arm
I bought a new swingarm off of eBay. I'll let you know if this fixes it. Does anyone have any other advice?
I'm getting a noticable high speed wobble around 75 mph especially on right hand curves after doing a couple of different projects on my '08 Deluxe.
I just got back from Sturgis and both tires were shot. I only replaced the tire on the front (it was a 21" Vee Rubber tire) with the same model but I'm not sure if he zeroed it out or not. He was evasive when I asked him and said he did but that most Vee Rubber tires are good to go and don't need it. :/ I don't think this is the issue anyways.
I had the stock rear tire so I decided to replace it and got a deal (from the same guy that supposedly zeroed out my new front tire) on a new Ride Wright wheel with a Dunlop WW Tire of the same size as the original. I was following my service manual to replace it myself.
Where I messed up was I over-torqued the rear axle nut big time (to the point that I stripped it.) I set my torque wrench to 100 Ft-Lbs according to the service manual's specs and my torque wrench never clicked! (The max setting was marked as 100 Ft-Lbs so I think it wasn't able to do it on hindsight). I have since purchased a torque wrench that maxes out at 250. I tightened the nut so tight that it was not flush with the swing arm (slight gap at the back of the nut - I've included a picture of that). I finally realized I was screwing up and stopped where I was. I was able to tension the belt with the same number of turns that I used to take the wheel off (15 turns on each tensioner bolt) and checked it using the recommended tension gauge. This is important later.
I realized I had forgot to install my swing arm covers so I had to remove the rear axle nut again. When I did, I had to use a breaker bar ALL the way through the unscrewing process. The nut threads had stripped from the amount of torque that I had put on it. Luckily, I did not strip the axle threads. I got a new 24mm nut and it threaded right on. Unfortunately, the same number of turns on the tensioner screws no longer comes even close to tensioning the belt. I had to max out the tensioner bolts in order to tension the belt properly. Also, the tension belt is now scraping a groove into my plastic debris deflector which tells me that the rear wheel is definitely out of alignment.
I have no idea how many parts I screwed up here and I just need help with where to start. I was going to start by ordering a chrome swing arm to replace the swing arm that I obviously bent since I could at least get some satisfaction out of changing it to chrome. But why do I have to max out my tensioner bolts just to get tension in the belt? Also, is there a possibility that it's something simpler and cheaper like maybe I crushed the wheel bearings with all that pressure? Or did my frame move and is there an adjustment bolt to realign it somewhere? Or possibly something more expensive like screwing up something with the other sprocket. Did I stretch the belt somehow? Maybe, also, since both tires and the rear wheel are new additions, is it possible the wobble is coming from something like the tires not being true. I kind of doubt this theory with the tension belt being so obviously misaligned.
I've included a few pictures of the belt rubbing a little groove in the debris deflector and the gap in the rear axle nut. Any help would be very much appreciated. Obviously I won't be riding it anymore until this issue is addressed and solved and I only put about 2 hours on it before I realized something is bad wrong so hopefully I haven't caused any more damage.
I just got back from Sturgis and both tires were shot. I only replaced the tire on the front (it was a 21" Vee Rubber tire) with the same model but I'm not sure if he zeroed it out or not. He was evasive when I asked him and said he did but that most Vee Rubber tires are good to go and don't need it. :/ I don't think this is the issue anyways.
I had the stock rear tire so I decided to replace it and got a deal (from the same guy that supposedly zeroed out my new front tire) on a new Ride Wright wheel with a Dunlop WW Tire of the same size as the original. I was following my service manual to replace it myself.
Where I messed up was I over-torqued the rear axle nut big time (to the point that I stripped it.) I set my torque wrench to 100 Ft-Lbs according to the service manual's specs and my torque wrench never clicked! (The max setting was marked as 100 Ft-Lbs so I think it wasn't able to do it on hindsight). I have since purchased a torque wrench that maxes out at 250. I tightened the nut so tight that it was not flush with the swing arm (slight gap at the back of the nut - I've included a picture of that). I finally realized I was screwing up and stopped where I was. I was able to tension the belt with the same number of turns that I used to take the wheel off (15 turns on each tensioner bolt) and checked it using the recommended tension gauge. This is important later.
I realized I had forgot to install my swing arm covers so I had to remove the rear axle nut again. When I did, I had to use a breaker bar ALL the way through the unscrewing process. The nut threads had stripped from the amount of torque that I had put on it. Luckily, I did not strip the axle threads. I got a new 24mm nut and it threaded right on. Unfortunately, the same number of turns on the tensioner screws no longer comes even close to tensioning the belt. I had to max out the tensioner bolts in order to tension the belt properly. Also, the tension belt is now scraping a groove into my plastic debris deflector which tells me that the rear wheel is definitely out of alignment.
I have no idea how many parts I screwed up here and I just need help with where to start. I was going to start by ordering a chrome swing arm to replace the swing arm that I obviously bent since I could at least get some satisfaction out of changing it to chrome. But why do I have to max out my tensioner bolts just to get tension in the belt? Also, is there a possibility that it's something simpler and cheaper like maybe I crushed the wheel bearings with all that pressure? Or did my frame move and is there an adjustment bolt to realign it somewhere? Or possibly something more expensive like screwing up something with the other sprocket. Did I stretch the belt somehow? Maybe, also, since both tires and the rear wheel are new additions, is it possible the wobble is coming from something like the tires not being true. I kind of doubt this theory with the tension belt being so obviously misaligned.
I've included a few pictures of the belt rubbing a little groove in the debris deflector and the gap in the rear axle nut. Any help would be very much appreciated. Obviously I won't be riding it anymore until this issue is addressed and solved and I only put about 2 hours on it before I realized something is bad wrong so hopefully I haven't caused any more damage.
#3
I think you bent your swingarm "ears". Did you have the spacers back in the right way? They need to be correct. Try this alignment tip, .....sounds like your rear wheel is WAY out of alignment or a good excuse for chrome one. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...gzDclHO1PttSdg
Last edited by Riffraff123; 12-02-2014 at 10:03 PM. Reason: added comment
#4
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