Latest update 9/27/05

Just got this from K&N support

The new K&N air filter for the Screamin’ Eagle assembly is now available, part# HD-0800. This air filter replaces the Screamin’ Eagle air filter part number 29442-99B (Blue one). The HD-0800 will also replace the 29442-99C.


local://upfiles/2318/C996ADBC0D084A24B6E5A78312DC8C15.jpg


More information on the K&N filter here... http://www.hdforums.com/m_67662/tm.htm


K&N Customer Service 800-858-3333 or 951-826-4000. or see the above link for better pricing.


Also a reply from Zippers performance http://www.zippersperformance.com/

Our upgrade to the Screamin Eagle filter is # 162-295 and is $74.95.
This filter is taller than a stock and does require the use of a round EVO
style cover.

Here's a link to the taller filter... HERE (http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/showproduct.asp?cat=863&prod=2155)
Stock filter on the left, taller K&N one on the right.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/products/w117-296.jpg

Any update on whether the HD-0800 will also replace the 29442-99C. I was told that the B, C suffix means that the parts are backwardly compatable but would like to confirm that before jumping. Thanks, Steve

Steve

Nothing yet on that but I follow along the lines of what you said about retro fit also.

Just visited the K&N web site and the 29442-99C Harley filter element is listed in their cross-reference quide. The replacement K&N is indeed the HD-0800 element. Steve

I got mine from

FOX Performance
21999 Van Buren St., Suite 6
Grand Terrace, CA 92313 US
909.824.8008

for $33.12 plus $5.00 for shipping.

Holy Hannah! I put the new K&N filter on and here's what I found --

Whoever installed at the dealership must have used enough Loctite to choke a horse. Instead of removing the three screws that hold the filter on, the torque was sufficient to remove the three studs beneath the screws.

The three screws are star point torx heads. Why? Geez sakes, HD, stop using these damn things that require yet another tool to work on your bike. A nice allen head bolt would have worked just fine -- that's what's going in there this weekend.

Other than that, the filter is a good fit - excellent quality.



local://upfiles/1646/610EFB013C36461FA559B514D53FE671.jpg

any performance gains with this filter vs. SE version in stage 1 kit?

You can get this filter at Autozone $32.99 It's a special order part. (You may have to tell them that) but I ordered it before 4:00 P.M. and it was in the next day by noon.

Thats funny I went to Autozone and the guy told me he couldn't help me. Can you give your part #?

Zippers also sells a washable direct replacement filter for the SE assembly for $35

Larry

I ordered the HD-0800 filter yesterday from K & N direct. I checked with a number of K & N retailers in my area, including the local HD dealership, and none of them listed the new replacement air filter. I'm sure that I probably paid more. Oh well...

Hi and thanks for the heads-up on the new filter. I just received it and went to install, thinking this would be a two minute job. First, a little background:
2005 FLSTNI with Stage 1 kit, SE 16 ga exhaust and thundermonster baffles. When I went to remove the T-27 screws that hold the filter against the backplate, they came off fine, but the filter came off with them. When I looked at the backside of the filter (Blue one everybody seems to dislike) there were some sort of individual bolt covers that the screws sat in with just the ends sticking out to screw into the backplate. I could not figure out how to get those screws out of there; they just spun in place when I tried to unscrew. Not wanting to risk ruining the screws, I just re-installed the air cleaner. This seems like it should be a very easy job. What am I missing? Any advice from you all would be welcome, as I hate to have the dealer do this one for me. Thanks. TedMan

Ted

Not too clear from your discription, but did you look behind the backing plate itself. If they are the bolts I think you are talking about , there 's 2 nuts behind there to put a wrench on, but that removes the backing plate. Not sure if that's what you're trying to do here.

Looks like a go on the b and c suffix also.

ORIGINAL: 06WideGlide

Any update on whether the HD-0800 will also replace the 29442-99C. I was told that the B, C suffix means that the parts are backwardly compatable but would like to confirm that before jumping. Thanks, Steve

Same thing , no gain but it doesn't fall apart (the K&N)
ORIGINAL: 13zero6

any performance gains with this filter vs. SE version in stage 1 kit?

ORIGINAL: Jezcruzen

I ordered the HD-0800 filter yesterday from K & N direct. I checked with a number of K & N retailers in my area, including the local HD dealership, and none of them listed the new replacement air filter. I'm sure that I probably paid more. Oh well...


You probably paid $50+ through K&N.

Fox performance is $33.12- pn HD-0800... http://fox-performance.com/merchant/merchant.mvc?


More info on the filter... HERE (http://www.hdforums.com/m_67662/tm.htm)

Thanks for reply. Just re-read my original post and I definitely was not clear. Here's what happened: I took off the air cleaner cover, so now I'm looking at the air filter itself with the 3 t-27 bolts holding it in place. I loosened each bolt, but instead of the bolts coming out of the filter like I expected, the filter came off with them. When I looked at the back of the filter, I see there are some type of studs with what measures out as 1/2 inch nut (that is part of the stud itself and is against the back of the filter) that the t-27s are sitting in, with just their ends sticking out. The t-27s don't actually turn, they appear to be "locked" into these studs, so when I was unscrewing them, really I was just turning the entire screw/stud. I could barely get a wrench on the base of these studs that is against the back of the filter to hold them while I tried to unscrew the t-27s, but I couldn't or didn't want to really ream on it for fear of breaking something. Could the t-27's just be loctited into them so that I should just go ahead and give it a more forceful try? Hope this explanation is clearer. I appreciate any feedback or advice. Thanks again.

Ted

Try a heat gun or the like and heat up the t 27's and get them hot. They most likely had someone apply some locktite to them in excess and it will take a bit of heat to soften them so they will release. Don't use an open flame, just thought I'd mention that too.;)

Thanks, TC. I'll give it a try.

Ted

K&N has a whole kit also for those who havent bought the SE stage I filter kit. it is RK-3909 (filter, spacers, breather bolts, backing plate, intake cone), and a trim ring for you to re-use the OE chrome oval cover. I also got it at AUTOZONE (had to explain to them that they could special order the parts even for a Harley) just under $105...2nd day shipping included. It makes a big difference over stock.

local://upfiles/7285/DD5AA34D8FEB403790077904CFE59008.jpg

I just got one from Fox and I think they are $35 now. Must have went up a bit.
The Blue factory filter had split on the inside.........I couldn't see any problems from the outside. Wow. Am I glad I decided to buy the K&N filter. Also, one of the three T27 headed screws that holds the filter to the standoff spacers jammed up and I wound up having to drill the head off and then using pliers to get the remaining screw portion out of the standoff.....nothing ever goes easy on these bikes...
Either way, 15 miles each way to HD for a $1.00 screw and I'm back in business. Rest of the install went well. As soon as my knee heals a bit, I'll go out and run it.

There's been a lot of people having problems with those blue filters coming apart. Lucky you caught it before it got sucked in to the motor.

What size star pattern torx head driver do we need? I forgot about these and am planning on doing the K&N filter swap this weekend. Thanks

T27

TDDave, thanks. I just hope I don't run into the same issues as some of the other guys with the excessive use of Locktite by the dealer.

Hopefully not, but if you do, just remove the filter along with the spacers and drill out the screw heads until you can "pop" the heads off. This will leave plenty of exposed thread on top of the spacer and will allow you to remove the screws with vice grips or channel locks.... Of course, another trip to HD will be necessary for new hardware but at least you won't have to buy new spacers as well. The one screw was so badly bound up on mine, even using heat wasn't enough to get it to budge.

I have a couple of questions if some pone does not mind answering.

1. Is this K&N filter teh one needed for the stage 1 high flow upgrade when you go to the new V&N stage 1 pipes for the 06 EFI Dyna?

2. What is the advantage of getting the whole K&N kit as opposed to just getting the filter? Does the kit actually increase the air flow into the engine where the filter alone does not?

Thanks!

ORIGINAL: Stucarius

I have a couple of questions if some pone does not mind answering.

1. Is this K&N filter teh one needed for the stage 1 high flow upgrade when you go to the new V&N stage 1 pipes for the 06 EFI Dyna?

2. What is the advantage of getting the whole K&N kit as opposed to just getting the filter? Does the kit actually increase the air flow into the engine where the filter alone does not?

Thanks!



1. yes HD - 0800

2. you need the SE kit to install this filter, the replacement K&N for the stock air box doesn't give you much improvement over stock because of it's low profile as compared to the HD 0800 filter used in the SE kit.

[/quote]


1. yes HD - 0800

2. you need the SE kit to install this filter, the replacement K&N for the stock air box doesn't give you much improvement over stock because of it's low profile as compared to the HD 0800 filter used in the SE kit.
[/quote]


Does the K&N kit accomplish the same as the SE kit?

Also, What would happen if you did the stage one high flow airfilter upgrade but not he pipes? Would this create a mix problem?

Thanks.

Justa quick thought on the loctited screws - I have a hand held impact driver that works wonders. It's like a spring-loaded hex-shaped anvil with a 3/8" drive end. Put your socket/torx driver on it, seat it in the screw and a sharp rap with a hammer will usually bust things loose. You don't wanna hit it hard and screw something up, but striking it plants the driver into the screw head so THAT doesn't round off and applies a turning force.

It's $50.95 now!

Will HD be releasing a SE Stage 1 kit that includes this new filter?

I need to get one soon, and I was wondering if I should go with an aftermarket one to get a K&N right from the beginning.

ORIGINAL: Scott FXSTI

Will HD be releasing a SE Stage 1 kit that includes this new filter?

I need to get one soon, and I was wondering if I should go with an aftermarket one to get a K&N right from the beginning.


Good question.... the were using them as part of the kit but decided to use a cheaper filter (blue banded one) that came apart causing injestion into the engine. I would think this would have caused them to switch back again, however they still market the kit with yet another filter in it rather than the K&N and K&N has since overcome the hold that HD had on them NOT to produce and sell the HD 0800 filter on their own. My guess would be that they are not going back to the K&N in their kit for profit reasons which doesn't figure to me if they are loosing sales over it. JMHO

ORIGINAL: Stucarius

Does the K&N kit accomplish the same as the SE kit?

Also, What would happen if you did the stage one high flow airfilter upgrade but not he pipes? Would this create a mix problem?

Thanks.




Don't know which K&N kit you refer to here but the K&N filter will flow more than a stock filter will.

If you did the intake without the exhaust, you wouldn't get the real benefit of doing the upgrade as the exhaust would then restrict flow through the engine. It also may cause an overly rich mixture as the stage one is accompanied with a reprogramming of the ecm (fuel enrichment) to achieve the maximum benefit which will usually net you 8-10 HP combined.

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

ORIGINAL: Stucarius

Does the K&N kit accomplish the same as the SE kit?

Also, What would happen if you did the stage one high flow airfilter upgrade but not he pipes? Would this create a mix problem?

Thanks.




Don't know which K&N kit you refer to here but the K&N filter will flow more than a stock filter will.

If you did the intake without the exhaust, you wouldn't get the real benefit of doing the upgrade as the exhaust would then restrict flow through the engine. It also may cause an overly rich mixture as the stage one is accompanied with a reprogramming of the ecm (fuel enrichment) to achieve the maximum benefit which will usually net you 8-10 HP combined.



I think he is speaking of the RK-3909 kit that is listed on the previous page of this thread.

It should accomplish the same as the HD stage 1 kit. However, I don't want to go that route right now because I want other options beside the Stock oval for my cover.

The first post on this string shows a taller filter next to the Screamin Eagle filter (blue) and has a link to Zippers. In this post it is stated that the taller filter is a K&N it is NOT a K&N.

Does anyone know if the K&N filter kit part # rk-3909 fits delphi injected models?

The K&N RK-3909 kit will fit all Twin Cam models, carb and injected, except the older injected models using the Magneti-Marelli system.

I just replaced the Harley Davidson white/blue filter which came with the Screamin' Eagle intake kit on my Heritage... The K&N HD 0800 fit perfectly and took 15 minute (max) to install. One of my mounting studs also came off with the old filter, but it was easy to get it loose and back onto the bike.

The attached pic shows how crappy the Harley filter is... Yup, that section of my Harley filter is missing and I was flowing unfiltered air! At least my motor is still running fine after ingesting the filter material which formally filled the hole and any debris which found it's way through the hole.

Bottom Line: Regardless of which filter you choose, pull the POS Harley Davidson filter out and replace it with something... Anything... K&N filters are good and I highly recommend them, but for your motor's sake remove the HD filter.

Edmo

local://upfiles/1690/42BBD7D4CFF34B3D82C6E2E847D0BA8F.jpg

I went with the K&N rk-3909. Works awesome. It took maybe 15 minutes to install. Huge difference over stock.

ORIGINAL: TCSTD

ORIGINAL: Jezcruzen

I ordered the HD-0800 filter yesterday from K & N direct. I checked with a number of K & N retailers in my area, including the local HD dealership, and none of them listed the new replacement air filter. I'm sure that I probably paid more. Oh well...


You probably paid $50+ through K&N.

Fox performance is $33.12- pn HD-0800... http://fox-performance.com/merchant/merchant.mvc?


More info on the filter... HERE (http://www.hdforums.com/m_67662/tm.htm)


I just went to Fox performance website and the filter is listed for $50.95

Like scttrg8, I also ordered the K&N RK-3909 kit...from Summit Racing, for my '04 EGC...carburated. Based on what I have been reading.....most of the fuel injected types need dyno and maps for such a chg out. Thats not including exhaust which might be an add'l dyno...etc....enough of the FI models.....

Do I need to tune the carb for the K&N, ie...go up on slow jet....say 48? Believe 45 is standard for the FLHTC....one of the local dealers parts guy gave me advice on the 48....he installed the K&N and slip-ons...not sure what kind.....

Or can I just adjust the mixture scew to compensate for the add'l air flow the K&N will produce? Plan on staying with stock exhaust for the time being. But don't want to burn to lean with new filter. Like a few of you.....enjoy hearing the radio while cruising.


local://upfiles/16474/15879D093BF04BEE88DE77793242474C.jpg

Put the K&N HD 800 in my 06' heritage classic efi.........was very excited to finally get one....have a K&N in everything else I own and love 'em. But.......my bike ran like crap after I installed it so I put the HD filter back in..........hated to.....but I couldnt figure any other option.....bike ran fine again when I changed them out. If there is anything someone can enlighten with about this, Id love to hear it as i am a hugh fan of K&N products, first time I have ever been let down with aything I bought from them.
By the way.....got the race download prior to the filter change.

I'm new on this site. There must be a whole bunch of data and opinions about this. Here is mine. Put the filter on. Add a PCIII. Put on whatever pipes you like the sound of. Download your new PCIII map as per the PCIII peoples recommendations. Your bike will run perfect. Did this to my 05' Ultra Classic and all went real good.

I'm new on this site. There must be a whole bunch of data and opinions about this. Here is mine. Put the filter on. Add a PCIII. Put on whatever pipes you like the sound of. Download your new PCIII map as per the PCIII peoples recommendations. Your bike will run perfect. Did this to my 05' Ultra Classic and all went real good.

[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

Go to any pep boys & get it for $40.00 [sm=americanasmiley.gif]
must be order, have it 3 to 5 days

Reply to Dyna2005. Just think of the mechanics that have to buy the tools to work on the new model cars and trucks, like I have to do. I think the auto industry has stock in the tool companies or own them.

I just ordered (11-15-06) a HD0800 from Auto Zone for $41.99 before taxes.
Tom
ORIGINAL: fatheadonsoftail

It's $50.95 now!

K&N RK3909 kit 1 5/8' thick filter

K&N RK3910 kit 2 1/4' thick filter

stock filter covers can be used.

Which one should be used

Which K&N element will I need if I replace the element in my Ness Big Sucker?

Thanks.

Taller= more air in and if fuel is enriched= more power;) I'd go for the taller one.

ORIGINAL: norm9533

K&N RK3909 kit 1 5/8' thick filter

K&N RK3910 kit 2 1/4' thick filter

stock filter covers can be used.

Which one should be used

HD 0800 K&N

ORIGINAL: AsahiToro


Which K&N element will I need if I replace the element in my Ness Big Sucker?

Thanks.

ORIGINAL: glide

HD 0800 K&N

ORIGINAL: AsahiToro


Which K&N element will I need if I replace the element in my Ness Big Sucker?

Thanks.





Thanks glide,

I guess I should have asked this as well. Is the K&N element significantly better than the Ness replacement element in terms of build quality, air flow, etc.? Do they both stick out from the bike the same distance? They're both basically the same price online.

I guess I should have asked this as well. Is the K&N element significantly better than the Ness replacement element in terms of build quality, air flow, etc.? Do they both stick out from the bike the same distance? They're both basically the same price online.


They are about the same in flow as they are both the gauze type of filter media. I believe the ness is a filter made by a company by the name of airaid and is very similar to the K&N filter. They both will work the same for your application and both are oiled types cleaned and oiled the same, also the same size too.

The Ness is the same. Hd and K&N have been in disagreement about something so you wont be able to get it from the dealer, unless you buy the Ness element (made by K&N probably).

I got a replacement from my harley dealer it was a Drag Specialty part.. Worked fine.

Ride safe

Wolf

Does anyone have any comparison data between this new K&N filter with SE backplate vsthe Ness Big Sucker? I am running stock airbreather with dual header thundercones, pcIII, stock ecm on an 04 flhrsi. Not sure what to get now. Was going to go with the ness as of yesterday but have not ordered it yet.

just fitted k/n rk3909 can anyone tell me whatyour supposed to do with what i think is the air flow wire .when not connected engine management light comes on.

Just got the K/N filter through the local Checker Auto for $49.99 + tax . Run their filters in my bikes, car and F250 Ford and have for years .........[sm=goodidea.gif]

Regarding installation of the K&N: I just installed my rk3909and had the same question as crossy, and a couple more. That wire lead is supported by aclip on the back ofthe stock backplate, but there are no instructions about what to do with it when the stock backplate goes away. I just supported it with acable tie back there. Hope that works.

I also reused the stock football cover, which K&N shows being replaced with the stock rubber gasket still attached. Problem is that stock gasket doesn't mate to anything any more, and will definitelyjust fall off unless it is glued on. That raw metal back edge does seem to need something.

Thethird issue I had is that the bigcenter hex nut holding the cover on will have toindent the center of thecover over a half inch if fully tightened. Seems like just following the directions would crush in the center of the cover. Ileft it firmed up but not tightened down. Now I guess I'll go back and put a spacer in there behind the cover. Anybody else have this problem?

I'd appreciateadvicefromanybodysmart. Orfrom any of thethousands ofdumb people who are stillsmarter than me. :-)

G'day Snowmass

I have just completed a K&N 3909, Python 2 into1 and thundermax autotune install and I had similar q's about the K&N, I just took the rubber gasket off. There are torque numbers in the service manual for all fastners, stick to them and you should be OK. It doesn't look like denting mine.

Here is a link about the actuator for the inlet solenoid. http://www.hdforums.com/m_1975535/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#1995437Big joe choppers in Australia is where I got mine, (via the net) all works fine, bar the 6th gear light, I'll be checking out the remedy for that soon, though not tonight - it's my birthday, and I think I might get drunk........

Good luck

Ciao

T1
>ORIGINAL: snowmass

Regarding installation of the K&N: I just installed my rk3909and had the same question as crossy, and a couple more. That wire lead is supported by aclip on the back ofthe stock backplate, but there are no instructions about what to do with it when the stock backplate goes away. I just supported it with acable tie back there. Hope that works.

I also reused the stock football cover, which K&N shows being replaced with the stock rubber gasket still attached. Problem is that stock gasket doesn't mate to anything any more, and will definitelyjust fall off unless it is glued on. That raw metal back edge does seem to need something.

Thethird issue I had is that the bigcenter hex nut holding the cover on will have toindent the center of thecover over a half inch if fully tightened. Seems like just following the directions would crush in the center of the cover. Ileft it firmed up but not tightened down. Now I guess I'll go back and put a spacer in there behind the cover. Anybody else have this problem?

I'd appreciateadvicefromanybodysmart. Orfrom any of thethousands ofdumb people who are stillsmarter than me. :-)

I went through all this TWICE (K&N Vs SE) Here is the situation/outcome:
Situation: I have an 06 heritage Softail Classic...My brother has an 06 Fatboy. Let me say 2 things up front. 1.) I swear by K&N filters. They are American made (I'm a retired soldier), and work GREAT (I have them on all my vehicles). 2.) I HATE giving money to the "stealership" Harley is the only bike I'll ride (OK I have a polaris quad...but that ain't a bike). I feel like the "stealership's" ideal customer is somone who comes in with deep pockets & says, "How do I become a biker?"
Having said all that I put an SE stage1 filter on my bike...& went out and bought the K&N replacement element for it (the SE filter is a dry filter). I then installed a K&N filter kit on my brother's Fatboy. I was VERY disappointed to find the K&N kit was made very cheap. Where the SE kit had a cast aluminum back plate...the K&N had a very cheasy stamped backplate with these flimsy aluminum standoff pins that look like the threads will fall apart in the 1st time you remove the filter element to clean it. I do have to admit the SE kit sold by the "stealership" is much better made...but I also reccomend buying the K&N replacement (Oiled) element to put in it. I got mine (replacement K&N element for the SE stage 1 fikter kit) at a website called www.fuelmottousa (http://www.fuelmottousa)
-Clutch-

I simply reused all the Stage 1 parts except the filter and the football style top. Replaced the filter with the K/N unit and used a Dewey's custom billit aluminum open top { exposes the entire filter } { the K/N round gasket had a sticky side }, the stayed on the inside of the top..bolted it back on ..taa-daa[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

I just put on my K&N filter with backplate, got the download, runs fine. BUT what is that little wire bundle that was attached to the back of the original backplate? it was stuck in by a ribbed plastic nipple and has a connector/wire. Anybody know what I mean?? I've asked on the Dyna forum and got nada..I just shoved it up by the new filter between it and the injector, any harm in that?

Thanks much, T1. That is helpful. Seems like there must be a bunch of nice folks down under.

Clutchglass, I'm thinking that K&N must have improved their quality since you got yours. My K&Nbackplate is apparently cast aluminum, not stamped. And you're right about those flimsy aluminum standoff pins.

Tmitchellofpg, I'm sure glad you posted that pic of your gorgeous red fatboy. Makes me want to come back to this page. I think my cobalt blue softail custom is the best looking bike in town, so I'll need for youto stay away from here.

Yeah labfreak I know what you mean. That's the wire I was talking about at the top of post #60 a little ways up this page. It seems to be a lead that is properly capped off, so I just tied mine up with a cable tie.Someinstructions from K&N wouldhave been nice.

snowmass thanks! I thought I was going nuts! I'd asked about this little wire harness on the Dyna forum and got zilch. Thanks for restoring my sanity...now what the hell is it for???

local://upfiles/38236/4A5FD8D53E0049D382290B9765F0B07C.jpg

. http://www.hdforums.com/m_1975535/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#1995437 (http://www.hdforums.com/m_1975535/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#1995437)


It is a solenoid actuator for international bikes that activates a flap that regulates air intake. it opens up above approx 1500revs to let more air in when needed. There is also one on the exhaust to run all exhaust through bottom pipe untill about the same rev range. These have to be removed when doing after market upgrades like A/c and pipes.

T1

ORIGINAL: labfreak

snowmass thanks! I thought I was going nuts! I'd asked about this little wire harness on the Dyna forum and got zilch. Thanks for restoring my sanity...now what the hell is it for???

local://upfiles/38236/4A5FD8D53E0049D382290B9765F0B07C.jpg

I have the new SE update filter, but it's a dry filter. Any way to clean it like a k&n? Can I use the k&n cleaner (not the oil) spray to clean it?

I've ordered the SE air filter kit part number 29773-02C. It should be here in a few days. Books says 'washable filter'. I hope the instructions tells how to 'wash' it.

ORIGINAL: Mike05

I've ordered the SE air filter kit part number 29773-02C. It should be here in a few days. Books says 'washable filter'. I hope the instructions tells how to 'wash' it.

Mike,
K&N makes a "filter recharge kit" that costs about $15 at autozone. If the SE filter element you get is a dry element just use the cleaner in the kit & follow the instructions. If you luck out & get the oiled filter, the recharge kit has oil in it as well. Regardless. just follow the simple instructions TO THE LETTR (no hair dryers, or compressed air) and you can't go wrong. Also, you should only have to do this about every 25k miles (actualy I think the kit says 50k).
-clutch-

I just ordered the HD0800 today from Autozone,$45 out the door.This was the best price I could find.

I got the part# for the Screamin Eagle kit. Went to dealer and walked out with K/N HD0800 filter, All the parts for 110.00 dollars.

I had the same issue with the bolts on a previous bike. It was not loctite but hardened *gunge* (technical term). I am guessing it was from water and oil vapor combining, entering the bolt threads, then hardening. Came out ok with a lot of force after letting the backplate and studs soak in kerosene for half a day.

Mike

I say *gunge* because I found the same stuff in the breather pipes. Would have been a lot of loctite.

Yeah man... the SE blue rubber started degrading and the filtering media started tocome apart pretty quickly on mine. The K&N is superior to the SE... got mine at Republic Cycle-Dallas for $42... alot less than the $50+ in some places. I wish I knew about the place that had 'em for around $35... That one guy was right-The Autozone guys(in my town) were clueless:no help at all. I'm no engineer, but I'd swear my bike is breathing better with the K&N.

Does K&N have a filter that replaces the new 08 SEAC kit filter?

Talked to K&N rep and they say they don't have a replacement filter for the 08 touring models yet.

Oh I thought the HD 0800 would fit 08 models. I was going to pick one up to install on my new RK with my new pipes. I was hoping you could use the stock air cleaner cover and just replace filters. Is this switch to K & N with pipes good enough to benefit from a remap of the ECU?

Question for snowmass, what baffles do you have in your Rush and what PCIII map are you using? I have the Rush with 1.75, K&N (3910) and using the Map for the rush 1.75 with SE Air Filter.

Thanks

Shawn
05 RK Custom Stage 1(K&N Tall)

I run the Arlen Ness big sucker kit on my bike. It has a K&amp\\;N type filter that fits under the stock cover.
&nbsp\\;
I recently removed the stock cover and install a custom cover that leaves the entire filter element exposed.
&nbsp\\;
The filter is now potentially exposed to rain, bugs and road debris.
&nbsp\\;
It is obvious that the cleaning and maintenance of the filter will be required more often, but other than that I can see no problems with running an exposed filter.
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I am certainly not an expert on this subject so my question is.............
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Are there other issues or problems with running an exposed filter that I may not be aware of ??
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BTW,&nbsp\\;after instlling the Arlen&nbsp\\;Ness kit, re-jetting te carburetor and installing Vance &amp\\; Hines long shots I have&nbsp\\;definitely increased the performance of the engine. I am very pleased with this setup.&nbsp\\;

BTW, what's up with all the backslashes and semi-colans I get every time I post ????????

Anyone know the K&N part number that replace the SE STAGE 1 29406-08 ?? thanks

davidarg,
I'm with you, just want to replace my SE air cleaner with a K & N.... tried doing a search, emailed K & N... no luck.
What gives ? they make every other trinket and doo dad for the bike.... why can't I get an air filter ??
P O 'd in Poway Ca.
BTBILL

I tried emailing them too with no luck. Found enough info here in HDF to figure it out though.

When I bought my bike it already had the Arlen Ness Big Sucker, I know its supposed to be a good set up and all. Found the breather was dribbling a bit of oil sittin in the bottom of the filter ever couple thousand miles not much just some normal venting.

Found a package deal on a new SE backing plate, K&N HD0800, filter oil and cleaning solution replaced the football with a round HD bar & shield nostalgic cover. No more oil dripping (the SE tube drip it right back into the throttle body) Picked up about 2 or 3 mpg in the process, never had the SE blue filter to try out but K&N beats the Arlen Ness in my book any day!

I had a dealer install the SE Stage 1 a/f on my 07 Ultra.

Sometime later, I pulled the cover to check the filter ..... and the service dept installer screwed up and ruined the seal - a rip in it. I tossed the SE filter and replaced it with a K&N air filter.

Have used K&N air filter in my Pickup for 7 - 8 years. Last time I cleaned it, noticed small holes in the cotton filter media. Called K&N about it. They sent me a new filter and UPS return label to ship back the old one at NO CHARGE! Made me happy!!! :-)

yea if it rains your filter will get wet (duh)
and your bike will be hard to start...
on an old bike i had i would carry a platic bag tofit over it if it looked to rain...