I have been a member of this forum for over 6 months now, and in reading alot of the posts, doing alot of research, and in building "Susie" my 2005 FXDI Superglide EFI, I have found some neat ways to build a real powerful street bike without spending the big bucks. So with that said I'll give some of my lessons here, in the hopes that maybe I am not the only one here who desn't want to take a second loan out to hop-up their TC88A.....[]

It is my opinion, that the 88 incher has more than enough size to do the job for a street bike. To build up more power, some things can be done to readily help you get on the path. They are:

1. Air intake upgrade.
2. Hi-Flow mufflers
3. Factory downloads
4. Aftermarket tuning aids
5. Gearing changes
6. Gear driven camshafts, for both reliability and performance
7. Automatic primary chain adjuster (more for reliabilty than performance, but worth mentioning nevertheless....)

In using my bike Susie, I have found that the above improvements related in a 18 horsepower and 18 torque improvement, without having to go into the engine more than the little required for the cam change. The following is my personal recommendation for the "budget minded" enthusiast.

1. Air intake=Arlen Ness makes the "Big Sucka" intake kit which is very similar to the H/D piece offered, but comes with the re-usable K&N filter. This works really well!

2. S&S mufflers. These muflers have just enough baffling to help the engine run properly, and add a real nice sound. They are louder than the SE mufflers, and are constructed alot better!!!! These are in my opinion, the best mufflers you can buy!!! They are a TRUE performance muffler, and are used by the S&S factory in their super big 124 inch bikes as a testament to their ability to make power!!!!!

3. Factory downloads. Your nearby dealer has the ability to install the factory "stage I" download into your computer. This gives you a raised Redline from 5500 RPM to 6200 RPM, as well as giving you a more advanced timing curve and more aggressive air to fuel ratio. Of course if your engine is carburated none of this applies.[&:]

4. Aftermarket tuning aids. SE has their race tuner (SERT) that can be used. I opted for the DynoTech Power Commander. The one available is their PC III USB. This unit fits under your seat, and effectively intercepts the signal sent to your factory computer and modifies it as it is programmed, wether by yourself, or preferrably on a dyno. In using my PC on Susie, I have been able to have her DYNO tuned perectly, and if for some reason the PC unit quits working, I can "limp home" on the factory download. The factory download keeps the redline at 6200 RPM. Without the download, even with the PC, you will not have the higher redline, so you must have both if you want more of the "sweet spot" from 5500 RPM to 6200 RPM that comes from my recommendations.

5. Gearing changes. SE, or Screamin' Eagle makes what is commonly referred to as a "gear down kit". What this is, is a new primary chain and gears set that changes the front, engine primary sprocket from the stock 25 tooth sprocket to a 21 tooth sprocket. So what does this mean? It means that your bike will be WAY more responsive around town, etc. as the bike feels lower geared and is able to make more acceleration from the power that the motor is currently generating. This does however make the engine spin at a higher RPM on the highway. Some have found it to be too much, and have later had the stock gearing re-installed. I personally have found it not to be bad at all. V-twin's, despite popular belief, are NOT designed to be lugged around at low RPM. It is in fact bad for the motor, and will over time cause excessive wear on the rod journal bearings. If you do the gear down kit, make sure that you spend the extra 30 bucks and put the SE pressure plate in for the clutch as well. There have been reports of people h

 

Joe,

I think your information is really good. There are many here that will save a lot of money if they follow your recommendations. The only thing I found fault with was the harley download. If you are going to spend the money for the download and the PCIII I would just install the SERT in the first place. Many of the smaller bikes (especially the 06's) don't have as much room under the seat and fitting the PCIII there can be a real pain in the butt. By the time you pay for both of them you could have gotten a SERT on sale or from Eastern Performance Cycles for about the same or less and you CAN change the redline without the download.

Sounds like you've got your bike just where you want it. Thanks for the information. All who read this can benifit because what works on your bike will work on just about any bike on here with a few modifications.

[sm=biker2.gif]

 

Really good information!

This is probably the way I'll take. Except that I'll buy the SERT instead of the PCIII.

Thanks Joe!

/Dan B
06 FXDCI

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: traveler

I have been a member of this forum for over 6 months now, and in reading alot of the posts, doing alot of research, and in building "Susie" my 2005 FXDI Superglide EFI, I have found some neat ways to build a real powerful street bike without spending the big bucks. So with that said I'll give some of my lessons here, in the hopes that maybe I am not the only one here who desn't want to take a second loan out to hop-up their TC88A.....[]

It is my opinion, that the 88 incher has more than enough size to do the job for a street bike. To build up more power, some things can be done to readily help you get on the path. They are:

1. Air intake upgrade.
2. Hi-Flow mufflers
3. Factory downloads
4. Aftermarket tuning aids
5. Gearing changes
6. Gear driven camshafts, for both reliability and performance
7. Automatic primary chain adjuster (more for reliabilty than performance, but worth mentioning nevertheless....)
I like all the traditional recommendations here cept this one......ill explain below
In using my bike Susie, I have found that the above improvements related in a 18 horsepower and 18 torque improvement, without having to go into the engine more than the little required for the cam change. The following is my personal recommendation for the "budget minded" enthusiast.

1. Air intake=Arlen Ness makes the "Big Sucka" intake kit which is very similar to the H/D piece offered, but comes with the re-usable K&N filter. This works really well!

2. S&S mufflers. These muflers have just enough baffling to help the engine run properly, and add a real nice sound. They are louder than the SE mufflers, and are constructed alot better!!!! These are in my opinion, the best mufflers you can buy!!! They are a TRUE performance muffler, and are used my the S&S factory in their super big 124 inch bikes as a testament to their ability to make power!!!!!
S&S slips on are pretty good, but Cycle shack makes a killer performing slip on, for half the price.
3. Factory downloads. Your nearby dealer has the ability to install the factory "stage I" download into your computer. This gives you a raised Redline from 5500 RPM to 6200 RPM, as well as giving you a more advanced timing curve and more aggressive air to fuel ratio. Of course if your engine is carburated none of this applies.[&:]
Factory downloads do raise the rpm limit, but their afr curves are off many times making for asomewhat poorly tuned bike. BTW, "advanced" timing curve means the spark happens farther and farther before TDC of the compression stroke. Advancing the curve many times hurts performance to keep the engine from excessively pinging. Nature of the beast.

4. Aftermarket tuning aids. SE has their race tuner (SERT) that can be used. I opted for the DynoTech Power Commander. The one available is their PC III USB. This unit fits under your seat, and effectively intercepts the signal sent to your factory computer and modifies it as it is programmed, wether by yourself, or preferrably on a dyno. In using my PC on Susie, I have been able to have her DYNO tuned perectly, and if for some reason the PC unit quits working, I can "limp home" on the factory download. The factory download keeps the redline at 6200 RPM. Without the download, even with the PC, you will not have the higher redline, so you must have both if you want more of the "sweet spot" from 5500 RPM to 6200 RPM that comes from my recommendations.

5. Gearing changes. SE, or Screamin' Eagle makes what is commonly referred to as a "gear down kit". What this is, is a new primary chain and gears set that changes the front, engine primary sprocket from the stock 25 tooth sprocket to a 21 tooth sprocket. So what does this mean? It means that your bike will be WAY more responsive around town, etc. as the bike feels lower geared and is able to make

 

Thanks for the responses,

I went with the HB 125 for reliability reasons. I'll have to keep an eye on it!

The SERT tuner is a nice way to re-tune your bike, but I have ZERO experience with it, with the PC, I do, and so therefore I can only speak on it's behalf......"it works for me"[&:]

If the Cycle Shack mufflers are of the same build quality as the S&S's and are cheaper, well, then "they're ya go!". Again, never seen them, but I have compared the SE II's to the S&S mufflers, and the build quality is apparent.

I don't know if Susie has a 37 tooth clutch basket or not. With the SE gear down kit and SE pressure plate, I have had no problems at all! I don't mind higher rev's.

Also, need to note that when I did the cam swap, I used the SE quick fit chromoly pushrod kit, to save the time and expense of taking the heads off.

Happy New Year!

joe

 

If you want to tinker with the setup, that's cool. My recommendation on this is to get a good baseline tune from someone with a similar arrangement. Although DYNO time costs alot of money, once you have all of your mods done, having it tuned by a real seasoned professional with alot of experience with the SERT would be well worth the money. My local dealer is a BIG Dynotech shop, using the PC III USB, so that's what I have, and that's what I know. I got lucky I guess on my facotry download prior to my PC, as when we dyno'ed it prior to PC tuning, the bike was almost perfect. I understand some are not that fortunate.......[&o]

Keep us up to date on your coming's and going's!

joe

 

Ya, I be keeping an eye on that thing, the nylon tensioner pad is known to be junk too, there are numerous threads in other forums where people have had problems with the tensioner pad cracking or splitting with minimal miliage, numerous.

 

I hope it is ok to post on this post as it was not asked of me...

I have to agree on the 21 gear down kit works well for racing or stop light stuff but makes riding any legnth of distance hard.

I tried a hb125 in my own bike when it was a 117 and had a very hard time getting it to prime, then once it did it would be fine until you changed the primary fluid thenit would not prime back up unless you removed it and primed it then re-install. After doing that twice I went back to the basic stock set up.

 

I'm confused........I never meant any disrespect to anyone, at any time!

I started this thread with the SOLE purpose of letting people know what I have been able to achieve.

Let's all be friends, and not let this get ugly.

joe

 

I dont see how HDWRENCH was getting ugly at all, thats normally my job it seems. He was pretty polite giving his own pennies on the item and his opnions. Welcomed in my book.