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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/24/2007 4:48:04 PM   
iclick



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quote:

ORIGINAL: texas steve

For a "Tiger" fan your pretty smart!!   I live in Houston and have many freinds who went to LSU, and have been at several of the tailgate parties!!  You guys know how to party!!!





We know how to party and play football.  Hopefully, that knowledge will come through on Jan. 7th.

Geaux Tigers!!


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/25/2007 7:50:14 AM   
MustBBrent

 

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I looked through here and didn't see my mod, so I will post it for ya.  

I have size 14 shoes that do not fit between the front and rear foot shifters.  So, I went to the local dealership and bought a $1.59 chrome short screw that matches the heel shifter screw and spacer and pulled the heel shifter off and replaced it with the short chrome shifter and some locktight.  Took me all of 2 minutes and $1.59.  The spacer from the dealership and the bolt are the same diameter as the front but only sticks out 1/2" instead of the stock 2".  Made all the difference in the world as I can now put my skiis on the floorboards with no issues.  I will add a pic later this morning if I remember. 

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/25/2007 10:53:01 AM   
fxesuperglide77


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I am Interested In this one.

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/25/2007 11:23:01 AM   
berettag


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In the spirit of "Improvosational Engineering" (I prefer that over jury rigging) I was removing my fairing from my Ultra yesterday and was being real carefull not to rub up against my spot lights and scratch anything, when it hit me. I reached into my rag bag (I keep for waxing and polishing) and pulled out two sweat socks, covered the spot lights and slid the fairing off, no fuss, no muss, no scratches. 

Put a Harley Bar and Sheild on the socks, and they'd be Genuine Harley Davidson Scratch Inhibitors, $39.95.

< Message edited by berettag -- 12/25/2007 2:51:38 PM >


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/26/2007 12:47:22 PM   
earlehd

 

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Steve, could I change my tock speakers to 4 ohm, add the tweeters like you did and that be back to 2 ohm?

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/26/2007 1:36:54 PM   
texas steve


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yep you would then have 2 ohm which is the factory standard.



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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/26/2007 7:41:04 PM   
gyzharley

 

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Looks like a pair of DBF Dolphins, I happen to have a set of those myself.

SS-339   1966-1970

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Post #: 87
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/26/2007 7:55:42 PM   
ssummers

 

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I made a nice inexpensive mod to my '06 RKC today.  Found a guy that had a set of new takeoff hand controls from an '08 RKC for $30.  Swapped them onto my '06, the updated levers on the '08 look really nice.

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/27/2007 7:13:42 PM   
Rodent


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Just a quick one back to the Polk Tweeters. What is the final fix. I have the 4 Hogtune speaker system, I want to install the Polk Tweeters, (which is a clean way of adding more sound, but I can't find a local dealer), and not being stereo savy, I need to know what I need to purchase, where to purchase it from, and how to wire it up. It looks like more than a simple wire hook up, but sounds like it would be a super add on.
Inquiring minds want to know.

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/27/2007 7:52:56 PM   
txgeezer


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Wire Horn to Police Siren Switch.
I really wanted to do this to my Street Glide but can't due to the volume control switch but for the rest of you, I did this on my old Softail Custom:

Ahem....obtain the bottom switch housing halfs from a police bike. I don't know what HD wants for them but I digress. (mine were $8, I didn't ask where they came from)  Left one has the long Siren switch and right one has pursuit switch.  Wired the pursuit switch to my passing lights and the horn to the siren switch. (no pictures, it was a long time ago but it ain't rocket science, just move the wires)

The cool thing is the Siren - now horn switch is right where it should be, by your thumb and it works in both directions.  You can push it in with your thumb or flick it out with your thumb.
Now you no longer need to grope for the damn horn button!

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/28/2007 2:36:41 PM   
PEZ

 

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Guys

I got asked by a PM to help out--and Im always happy to help

The tweeters will get paralleled in. So--the positive wire from the radio goes into the front speaker, and "y" off to the positive input of the tweeters x-over. The positive output of the crossover will then go to the positive in on the tweeter--do the same for the negative and your all set

The Crossover divides the frequencies of the tweeters from the "mids" so the overall load stays correct. You will be fine if 4 ohm tweets are used.

I have also had guys use Memphis tweets in this config with great results as well

Hope this helps--any other questions, and please email me at info@hogtunes.com

PEZ

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/28/2007 3:06:27 PM   
texas steve


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Pez,  I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product.    I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2)   So if I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4  and that =1.3 ohms.  If I'm doing it wrong please let me know.   If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.   

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker.  Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/28/2007 4:10:12 PM   
fxesuperglide77


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quote:

ORIGINAL: PEZ

Guys

I got asked by a PM to help out--and Im always happy to help

The tweeters will get paralleled in. So--the positive wire from the radio goes into the front speaker, and "y" off to the positive input of the tweeters x-over. The positive output of the crossover will then go to the positive in on the tweeter--do the same for the negative and your all set

The Crossover divides the frequencies of the tweeters from the "mids" so the overall load stays correct. You will be fine if 4 ohm tweets are used.

I have also had guys use Memphis tweets in this config with great results as well

Hope this helps--any other questions, and please email me at info@hogtunes.com

PEZ


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/30/2007 10:36:11 AM   
iclick



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quote:

ORIGINAL: texas steve

Pez,  I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product.    I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2)   So if I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4  and that =1.3 ohms.  If I'm doing it wrong please let me know.   If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.   

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker.  Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.


This worries me too, and I eagerly await a clarification.  If Pez says it will work reliably, I believe it.  Now, I need to research these "Memphis tweets," and looking at them on their site makes me think the all-black design would look better than the Polk tweeters from a visual standpoint.  The cost seems to be about the same, so what is best for this application, the soft-dome, aluminum-dome, or power-reference type?  The last is considerably cheaper than the first two, $60 vs. $90.

Edit:  The aluminum-dome tweeters are on Ebay for $65 w/shipping:  http://tinyurl.com/2d62w6


< Message edited by iclick -- 12/30/2007 10:46:43 AM >


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/30/2007 4:31:13 PM   
texas steve


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quote:

ORIGINAL: iclick

quote:

ORIGINAL: texas steve

Pez,  I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product.    I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2)   So if I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4  and that =1.3 ohms.  If I'm doing it wrong please let me know.   If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.   

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker.  Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.


This worries me too, and I eagerly await a clarification.  If Pez says it will work reliably, I believe it.  Now, I need to research these "Memphis tweets," and looking at them on their site makes me think the all-black design would look better than the Polk tweeters from a visual standpoint.  The cost seems to be about the same, so what is best for this application, the soft-dome, aluminum-dome, or power-reference type?  The last is considerably cheaper than the first two, $60 vs. $90.

Edit:  The aluminum-dome tweeters are on Ebay for $65 w/shipping:  http://tinyurl.com/2d62w6



Here is the reply from another speaker specilist and it matches what PEZ replied to me;
 
"When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."
 
So no problem!!

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 12/31/2007 5:43:25 PM   
iclick



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quote:

ORIGINAL: texas steve

Here is the reply from another speaker specilist and it matches what PEZ replied to me;
 
"When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."
 
So no problem!!


Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info!  I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions.  First, do I want to drill into my fairing?  Ouch!  That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever.  Second, which speaker to get?  Polk or  Memphis?  Aluminum or silk dome? 

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.



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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 7:19:35 AM   
SGLarry


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[/quote]

Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info!  I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions.  First, do I want to drill into my fairing?  Ouch!  That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever.  Second, which speaker to get?  Polk or  Memphis?  Aluminum or silk dome? 

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.



[/quote]

Get the aluminun as they are weather proof.....the silk domes will get trashed if they get wet. I have the Memphis PR15's and they sound Geat!


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 7:43:45 AM   
texas steve


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quote:

ORIGINAL: SGLarry




Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info!  I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions.  First, do I want to drill into my fairing?  Ouch!  That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever.  Second, which speaker to get?  Polk or  Memphis?  Aluminum or silk dome? 

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.





Get the aluminun as they are weather proof.....the silk domes will get trashed if they get wet. I have the Memphis PR15's and they sound Geat!



Well, the improvemnet in sound with the tweeters are well worth the holes.  Which of course you wont see because the speakers are there.  If you sell your bike, yes the low price of the speakers goes with the bike, but in the intrem you now ENJOY the sound!!   By the way the Polks are marine rated as well.

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 8:40:54 AM   
XfasteddieX


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here is the equasion for figuring ohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5   1 devided by 4 =.25  so  .25+.5 =.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be 1.33 ohms

if you use  a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 8:47:48 AM   
texas steve


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quote:

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuring ohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5   1 devided by 4 =.25  so  .25+.5 =.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be 1.33 ohms

if you use  a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


Ture, however the impeadence/resistance of a speaker is not constant.  The formula aboves assumes a constant resistance, and it a accurate formula for pure resistance.   Speakers change resistence as the frequency changes.   Two audio experts (not me) were both given the question and both, seperately of eachother came to the same conlusion.  

""When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."


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RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 1/1/2008 10:01:40 AM   
fxesuperglide77


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So It Is safe to put in tweeters In a 2ohm system with no problems, Right? Is that the bottem line?

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 10:05:08 AM   
iclick



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quote:

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuring ohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5   1 devided by 4 =.25  so  .25+.5 =.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be 1.33 ohms

if you use  a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


If you wanted to have everything according to spec (2Ω) you could also connect the two speaker pairs (2 and 4Ω) in parallel, then connect a 2Ω resistor in series with the 2Ω speakers.  That would put you at 2Ω, right? 

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Post #: 102
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 10:10:22 AM   
texas steve


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quote:

ORIGINAL: iclick

quote:

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuring ohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5   1 devided by 4 =.25  so  .25+.5 =.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be 1.33 ohms

if you use  a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


If you wanted to have everything according to spec (2Ω) you could also connect the two speaker pairs (2 and 4Ω) in parallel, then connect a 2Ω resistor in series with the 2Ω speakers.  That would put you at 2Ω, right? 


Absloute bottom line according to the speaker and crossover people I contacted is that speakers are not pure resistive, and thefore the formuala used for resistance is technically correct, but in practice, with speakers, it is not.  Their opinion is it will be fine, and dont add the resistor (according to them).   Mine are working great (Polks parallel) and the sound is a great improvement.  So Iclick you and I are both fine.  By the way the two experts were PEZ and a crossover builder for Theil speakers.

Iclick, how did your Tigers do?  I did not get to see the game!

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 10:40:07 AM   
iclick



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quote:

ORIGINAL: texas steve
Iclick, how did your Tigers do?  I did not get to see the game!


LSU plays OSU in the BCS National Championship Game on Jan. 7th.  SEC is doing well, 4-for-4 so far in bowl games--but Ark. is floundering against Mizzou at the moment.  UT is handling Wisc. fairly well thru the 3rd quarter.  More scores at the top of the hour.  Stay tuned to this channel for complete sport coverage. 

Thanks for the input on the tweeters.  I'm leaning toward the Memphis tweeters (aluminum cone), only because I see an Ebay seller offering 11 sets for $50 + $15 shipping per pair.  I haven't seen the Polk's anywhere for less than about $90/pr.

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Post #: 104
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 12:14:56 PM   
XfasteddieX


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quote:

ORIGINAL: iclick

quote:

ORIGINAL: texas steve
Iclick, how did your Tigers do?  I did not get to see the game!


LSU plays OSU in the BCS National Championship Game on Jan. 7th.  SEC is doing well, 4-for-4 so far in bowl games--but Ark. is floundering against Mizzou at the moment.  UT is handling Wisc. fairly well thru the 3rd quarter.  More scores at the top of the hour.  Stay tuned to this channel for complete sport coverage. 

Thanks for the input on the tweeters.  I'm leaning toward the Memphis tweeters (aluminum cone), only because I see an Ebay seller offering 11 sets for $50 + $15 shipping per pair.  I haven't seen the Polk's anywhere for less than about $90/pr.


i ordered the polk componant system from parts express 5 1/4", the tweets ,& crossovers for 40.00 & baffles to help enhance the lws &mids should be here tomarrow   http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=267-737  &
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-786


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 12:16:21 PM   
CREEPSHOW


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I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors! Vis versa, if you want to add tweeters and don't plan on mounting fairing mounted mirrors, borrow a mirror template and drill the holes for fairing mirrors. Then mount you tweeters. If you decide you don't like the tweeters remove them and install fairing mount mirrors, the holes are already there. Tweeters can come in handy! Just an idea..

< Message edited by CREEPSHOW -- 1/1/2008 12:22:47 PM >


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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 12:22:18 PM   
XfasteddieX


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quote:

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors! Tweeters can come in handy!

thats what im doing with my tweets

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RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 12:48:58 PM   
texas steve


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quote:

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

quote:

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two gages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put gages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors! Tweeters can come in handy!

thats what I'm doing with my tweets


Yep that will work - but - I temporally put them there (just held them in place) and the sound improved, but not as much as where I have them now.   Higher up they are more aimed at your ears, and the separation (stereo) is much better as well.    I too liked the idea of putting them in the gauge area.   The temp gauge is useless anyway!!!   Now if you switch and put the tweets in place of the gauges beside each main speaker (and move the others down) that would be good.  I was going to do that, then I saw how difficult it appeared, so I went with the way I did it.  You can look back at the previous page in this post and they don't look abstruse at all.

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(in reply to XfasteddieX)
Post #: 108
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 1/1/2008 4:57:49 PM   
Wally


Posts: 1975
Joined: 9/10/2005
From: Ontario, Canada
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors! Vis versa, if you want to add tweeters and don't plan on mounting fairing mounted mirrors, borrow a mirror template and drill the holes for fairing mirrors. Then mount you tweeters. If you decide you don't like the tweeters remove them and install fairing mount mirrors, the holes are already there. Tweeters can come in handy! Just an idea..

I'm one of those guys that wants to delete the fairing mount mirrors. I installed Wild1's 575 chubby bars and love them but, they really reduce the rear view visibility with the fairing mount mirrors. I've been trying to figure out something to cover the holes and I hope this is it.
Do you know for sure the tweeters will cover the holes or are you just thinking they will?