RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$
Login  | |
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/17/2008 6:19:26 PM
|
|
|
dawg
Posts: 5594
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Vermont
Status: online
|
I drilled a 37/64 hole in the top of my primary, tapped it with a 5/8-18 tap and installed a chrome EVO timing plug pn#94138-93T. Now I don't have to take off the derby cover to fill the primary and if I do take off the derby cover for a clutch adjustment, it is still easier to fill the primary through this hole. Now before anybody says you need to see the bottom of the clutch basket to see that the fluid touches the bottom of it, once you fill it a couple of times and each time it takes the same amount it ain't gonna shrink or expand and change the amount on you. I contemplated using a crush washer, but I thought about it and the top of the primary only gets splashed as the chain goes around, it doesn't have constant fluid resting on it. Therefore, I thought a little thread sealant and I'd be good to go. Here's a couple of finished pics.
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
 Attachment (2)
_____________________________
''''08 105th anniversary Ultra
D&D Fatcat
Zippers Filter Upgrade Kit
Zippers Redshift 575 cams
EVO Ind. 30 tooth
SERT
www.vtroaddawgs.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/18/2008 7:24:36 AM
|
|
|
drbillk
Posts: 54
Joined: 9/5/2007
Status: offline
|
Great mod... however, I'm guessing you drilled and tapped that into the primary with the cover completely removed from the bike, right? Did you do anything special to catch the metal shavings?
_____________________________
2004 Ultra Classic
95" Upgrade, Rinehart True Duals, SE Air Filter
Tru-Track, Way too much chrome!
"For those who fought for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know."
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/18/2008 2:26:40 PM
|
|
|
dawg
Posts: 5594
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Vermont
Status: online
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: drbillk
Great mod... however, I'm guessing you drilled and tapped that into the primary with the cover completely removed from the bike, right? Did you do anything special to catch the metal shavings?
I took the cover off after and cleaned up everything good. There wasn't much there because I sucked it with a vac as I went.
_____________________________
''''08 105th anniversary Ultra
D&D Fatcat
Zippers Filter Upgrade Kit
Zippers Redshift 575 cams
EVO Ind. 30 tooth
SERT
www.vtroaddawgs.com
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/19/2008 7:54:25 AM
|
|
|
Cold Rider
Posts: 21
Joined: 10/10/2005
Status: offline
|
I thought that I had a new mod for my HD. Should have known better!!! I started to remove my grab bar and relocate my license plate, and did a search on the Forum and found loads of good info!!! Should have known that too!!! Thanks Guys.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/20/2008 6:48:24 PM
|
|
|
Jonny Two Guns
Posts: 69
Joined: 10/31/2007
Status: offline
|
Hey Guys,
I just wanted to add one here as it works well and saved me money. All in all it cost about $28. Recently I got all the parts and added a detachable Tour Pak to the Road King Custom. I only see using it on long runs but then again riding season is not here yet. Anyway I wanted to make sure the Tour Pak didn't get scratched up when it is off the bike. I had investigated several options but they ranged from $60 to $160 and most were designed to attach to a wall with studs 16 inch on center. I have a Pole Barn and guess what? No studs 16 inches apart.
The first pic is the original concept and the parts list. I will itemize these as it did not show up very good. Also you will notice in the original design the bars were parallel. This turned out to be no good as the detachables are not parallel. As you will see in the other pics the are actually 1 then 2 then 1. the 4 rods allow my Tour Pak, The Detachable Rack and the Detachable Backrest to all be mounted at the same time. They have to be offset just a little as the rear most rod is common to the Tour Pak and the Detachable Rack
The parts list are as follows:
2 - 2 x 6 x 19 Boards, you may want to make it a little longer as you will notice in pic the backrest actually straddles the mounting post.
8 - 3 inch 5/16 lag screws
8 - 5/16 washers
2 - 36 x 1/2 inch rods of all thread
16 - 1/2 inch nuts
16 - 1/2 inch washers
approx - 36 inches of tubing 1/2 inch ID and 5/8 OD (I had to buy 10 foot at Home Depot)
Cut the all thread to 18 inches. The rods can be shorter. It was just much easier to cut the rods in half. Note: 12 inch rods are not long enough. I made this mistake when buying the parts initially. I bought 4 - 12 inch rods at first and determined they were just not going to leave enought "play". Put 3 nuts on the rod. Two about 4 inches apart to clap in the vise the one at the 14 inch mark, one at the 18 inch mark and the other next to it just wide enough for the sawsall blade to pass between them. This guides the blade and also helps clean up the threads after the cut. When you back off the nuts it cleans the threads.
Mark a line down the center of the board, length wise, you will need this later. The poles in the barn are 5 1/2 inches deep. So I mesured and marked the board with a vertical line there (L1). Measure back 2 inches and mark a vertical line there (L2). Then I went back 4 inches, the approximate distance of the front of the backrest to the front mounting point on the quick disconnect mounting bracket. This leaves about 2 inches of play room to tilt the Tour Pak for mounting. Mark this point with a vertical line (L3). Then go back another 4 1/5 inches and mark this point with a vertical line (L4). This is the point for the rear mounting point of the quick disconnect mounting bracket.
To drill all the holes in the boards I attached the two boards together with clamps and drilled both boards at the same time. This assures parallel and uniform holes. At the intersection of the fourth vertical line (L4) and the center line drill a 1/2 inch hole. Then at the (L3) intersection measure 1 inch from each side of the center line and drill 2 - 1/2 inch holes. Then at (L2) measure 3/4 of an inch down from the center mark and drill a 1/2 inch hole. I then marked the board with an X from line (L1) to the opposite tip of the board and vise versa. Come in 1 1/2 inches from each tip of the x mark and drill 4 mounting guide holes. The size of your 8 lag bolts. Mine were 5/16.
Feed the nuts on to the center of the rod till there is about 4 inches between them. Then put a washer on each end. Put all four rods into one board. Then feed the opposite end into the other board. Now put on the outside washers and nuts. Do not tighten the nuts yet.
Attachment (5)
< Message edited by Jonny Two Guns -- 3/20/2008 7:18:52 PM >
_____________________________
Jonny Two Guns
2005 FLHRSI (Road King Custom)
"Forgiveness is easier to get than permission"
"I won't be wronged... I won't be insulted... I won't be layed a hand on... I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/20/2008 9:49:00 PM
|
|
|
Jonny Two Guns
Posts: 69
Joined: 10/31/2007
Status: offline
|
Okay Guys, I was borred and didn't want to go to bed early so I went out and took a few more pics. If you look close you can still see pencil marks on the board. Also notice when multiple items are on it there has to be a stagger in mounting as I mentioned in the first post. I showed how even the Rider Backrest can be positioned when the Detachable Rack is on or off.
I added a pic so you can see how it keeps the stuff up and out of harms way.
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
Thumbnail Image
Attachment (5)
_____________________________
Jonny Two Guns
2005 FLHRSI (Road King Custom)
"Forgiveness is easier to get than permission"
"I won't be wronged... I won't be insulted... I won't be layed a hand on... I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/22/2008 1:11:02 AM
|
|
|
RangeRat
Posts: 456
Joined: 6/8/2007
From: Florida
Status: offline
|
No wonder you're bored, weather (I see the snowplow). Sorry man, can't help rubbing it in a little.
_____________________________
Bring'em home or send us back!
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/22/2008 6:37:31 AM
|
|
|
Jonny Two Guns
Posts: 69
Joined: 10/31/2007
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: RangeRat
No wonder you're bored, weather (I see the snowplow). Sorry man, can't help rubbing it in a little.
Yeah,
Let's hope that crap is over!
_____________________________
Jonny Two Guns
2005 FLHRSI (Road King Custom)
"Forgiveness is easier to get than permission"
"I won't be wronged... I won't be insulted... I won't be layed a hand on... I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/22/2008 7:52:06 AM
|
|
|
UltraKla$$ic
Posts: 5056
Joined: 12/20/2006
From: Lake Charles, La.
Status: offline
|
I have a Pole Barn and this mod will come in very handy for my removable tourpak and backrest.
Thanks for posting Johnny.
_____________________________
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 3/22/2008 8:18:14 AM
|
|
|
wydopn231
Posts: 702
Joined: 4/10/2007
Status: offline
|
I maybe a little etream for some of you.I welded in some some filler that work with my leather bags,seems all the ones i found are for hard bags.I frenched the plate and new tail light.as for the grab rail im intstalling two pices of tube welded together with rib in middle and mounting two led bulbs in them on each side and connecting them to turn signals.Now when hit the turn button two big shotgun barrles light up realy gets thier attention.also split both sides of tanks and widened 2" each side in front to nothing at rear give the old girl that true super model figure.Oh yea adding to pistol grips in front of saddle bags give that concealed shotgun look when seeing dbl barrle turnsignals and the wooden pistol grips.As soon as get parts back from painter(little brother) and replace factory skins Ill post some pics.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/22/2008 9:41:01 AM
|
|
|
djamann
Posts: 410
Joined: 2/3/2007
Status: offline
|
Great set up. I can see you and I have very similar tastes. I have a charcol gray Dodge 2500 crew cab and a black pearl road king too. I REALLY wish I had gone with the detachable back rest & luggage rack. I would have made my ride so much more flexible. Hindsight is 20/20 they say
Great looking garage. Mine has a 28" snowblower instead of a 4 wheeler with a plow. I'm sick of this white crap too. I did get out for a short ride last Saturday when it hit 40 and the roads were clear
_____________________________
Dave
07 Black Pearl FLHR
V&H slip ons
Mustang touring seat
Panacea smoked LED taillight & turn signals
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/22/2008 6:07:12 PM
|
|
|
Jonny Two Guns
Posts: 69
Joined: 10/31/2007
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: djamann
Great set up. I can see you and I have very similar tastes. I have a charcol gray Dodge 2500 crew cab and a black pearl road king too. I REALLY wish I had gone with the detachable back rest & luggage rack. I would have made my ride so much more flexible. Hindsight is 20/20 they say
Great looking garage. Mine has a 28" snowblower instead of a 4 wheeler with a plow. I'm sick of this white crap too. I did get out for a short ride last Saturday when it hit 40 and the roads were clear
HeyDave,
I noticed you live in Findlay. Not really too far away. I live in between Urbana and St. Paris. Did you guys get slammed two weekends ago? Retorical question really, I know you did. We all did! We got about 20 inches here. I bet that snow blower got a workout then huh?
Yeah, looks like we have some of the same likes. Do you have the Cummins or the Hemi? Mine is the Cummins and I love my truck but at $4.09 a gallon it is sitting right now. It was my daily commuter to Columbus. I bought a new Civic Coupe last month and it gets 40 mpg. Actually it's a good thing cause it needs front U-Joints, Brakes, Dif Flush and a Front Dif Rear Seal. I got all the parts there in the barn. You can see the parts piled up there in the last pic. Just gotta get a decently warm day to go out and get the stuff in. Of course if it gets too nice, I'll want to ride...lol
Gotta get it done here quick, a few of us are going to Run the Dragon's Tail here in a few weeks. We are trailering down and will need it. Well, catch you later...
_____________________________
Jonny Two Guns
2005 FLHRSI (Road King Custom)
"Forgiveness is easier to get than permission"
"I won't be wronged... I won't be insulted... I won't be layed a hand on... I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them.
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/23/2008 7:34:32 AM
|
|
|
djamann
Posts: 410
Joined: 2/3/2007
Status: offline
|
Jonny,
We got hit, but not as bad as your neck of the woods. We saw about 7-8 inches up here, but the blower was out several times that weekend. I'm really sick of this stuff, can wait until the roads are free of ice & salt. It is supposed to warm up (40's) this week so we'll see.
I have the Hemi in my Dodge. I've been driving trucks for 20+ years, but this is my first 3/4 ton and really didn't want to go there. My wife wants to get a 5th wheel sometime, so this is to apeez her. I'm not paying as much for fuel as if it were diesel, but I'm lucky to get 11 MPG with my normal drive. Once the weather breaks, I'll be more than happy to ride The Pearl that gets 40+ MPG - and it is much more enjoyable to ride.
I don't get into that kind of wrenchin on my truck, no problem with accessory bolt on, but drive train work I leave to the pros. I do plan on doing my own standard service on The Pearl though, that is within my reach.
I don't get to do any overnight rides yet, my wife & young kids don't ride so it is tough to get away for a weekend w/o them. Some buddies & I are riding out to Milwaukee this September - the weekend after the big party. We got the OK from our spouses too late in the game to get hotels at a reasonable distance and price for the event.
Have fun on your trip, keep the rubber on the road
Later
_____________________________
Dave
07 Black Pearl FLHR
V&H slip ons
Mustang touring seat
Panacea smoked LED taillight & turn signals
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 3/23/2008 9:51:02 AM
|
|
|
glide2005
Posts: 186
Joined: 7/15/2007
Status: offline
|
I like lights on the rear of my bike,the more the better.So on my last bike,03 Superglide,I installed a pair of 1939 led tail lights in the saddle bags and in my pressent bike 05 EGC a third brake light off e-bay for 10 bucks.
Attachment (2)
_____________________________
Nothin better than wind in your hair and bugs in your teeth.
H.O.G. member
SCRC member,Conroe chapter # 120
2005 Electra Glide Classic
13" Cyclesmith Apes
V&H True Duals
Wild Piggs
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 3/23/2008 6:59:50 PM
|
|
|
longacre
Posts: 2
Joined: 4/27/2007
Status: offline
|
Hello,
I wanted to do the same thing and mount a garage door opener on my Ultra Classic, however did not want to drill any holes so here is what I did. I went to sears and purchased an extra garage door opener remote. I took it the battery out and took it apart, I shorted the momentary on button that activates the garage door with a short piece of wire (soldered the two switch legs together.) Then I took two wires about 12 inches long and soldered to the two battery terminals on the opener (one to positive, one to negative) and melted two holes in the case the the wires wouldn't be smashed when I reassembled the opener. Then, removed the headlight from my ultra classic, took a piece of double sided tape and taped the opener inside my faring close to the top, above the headlight, wired the positive wire to the headlight high beam lead and the negative to ground, replaced the headlight and voila! Now when I want to open my garage door, I flash my high beams and it applies 12 volts to the opener, since the momentary on button is shorted, the opener sees it as a button press and the garage door opens, when I am safely inside I flash them again and the door closes...works great and no drilling. Cost about $30 bucks total.
Bryan
< Message edited by longacre -- 3/23/2008 7:10:45 PM >
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 3/31/2008 9:58:35 PM
|
|
|
stro1965
Posts: 2096
Joined: 2/27/2007
From: Bellevue, NE
Status: offline
|
I bought an eBay windshield pouch and modified the center one to accept my GPS. I didn't want to see wires hanging around anywhere so I spliced in a spare cigarette lighter inside the fairing and ran the audio cable as pictured. When I close up the pouch it looks like any other, you'd have to really study it to see anything out of the ordinary.
_____________________________
2007 Peace Officer Ultra Classic
Thundermax Auto Tune
S/E Air Cleaner
V&H Pro-Pipe
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 4/5/2008 9:15:15 AM
|
|
|
Lost1
Posts: 1492
Joined: 3/10/2007
Status: offline
|
For those unhappy with the stock horn's performance (or the lack thereof) here's how I replaced the cheesy stock item with a pair of FIAMM Freeway Blaster 130dB electric horns. The installation is simple (takes about an hour or so) and the bike will look completely stock when done. I chose FIAMM's because I've had them on every bike I've ever owned, they're reliable, and they'll wake up the dead! 
I bought the horns from JC Whitney for $36 for a set of 2 (high & low tone.) High tone P/N is ZX133190A and the low tone is P/N ZX133191R. You may be able to find these same horns at a local auto parts store as well.
I bought a roll of 14ga stranded wire, a standard 15 amp fuse holder & fuse, some crimp-on male & female spade connectors, and a 12v, 30A relay (Part #275-226) from Radio Shack at a total cost of about $12.
Remove the stock horn & mount one Fiamm horn where the stock horn was. (No mods are necessary as the FIAMM mounts using the same bracket as the stock horn, & the chrome cowbell cover fits over the new horn so it still looks stock.) Leave the 2 stock horn wires disconnected for now.
The other horn you can mount anywhere. I mounted mine to a frame inboard of the right-hand saddlebag using an existing frame bolt (see pic.)
I mounted the 12v/30A relay in a cubbyhole just forward of the battery under the seat. (Your mount location may vary depending on what you prefer.)
All that's left is the wiring, which is simple (even for the electrically challenged, which I most certainly am) as the 4 terminals on the relay are numbered. Use crimp-on connectors as necessary. Using the diagram on the back of the relay package as a guide:
Using the 14ga wire you bought, lengthen and run the existing horn positive wire to terminal 86 on the relay.
Do the same for the existing horn negative wire & connect to terminal 85 on the relay. (These wires activate the relay when you push the horn button.)
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button- you should hear the relay click. If all is well turn off ignition. If not, double-check your connections.
Next, using the 14ga wire, run a 15A fuse-protected 12v hot wire from the + terminal of the battery to terminal 87 on the relay. (Leave fuse out till all wiring is finished.)
Then run two wires off relay terminal 30/51, connecting one of the wires to a terminal on each of the horns. (These are the hot wires to the horns.)
Each horn will have a terminal remaining. Using the 14ga wire, make a short jumper wire and connect one end to the remaining horn terminal on each horn & the other end to any ground. (I just used any available frame screw close to the horn.)
Tape all connections, then connect the fused hot wire, turn on the ignition, & the horns should blow when you push the stock horn button.
[My picture shows how I mounted & wired the rear horn. The wiring for the front horn under the cowbell is similar.]
Thumbnail Image
Attachment (1)
_____________________________
'07 Electra Glide Classic- Black Cherry Pearl
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Heres one I fabed up - 4/6/2008 9:58:36 AM
|
|
|
1ADAM12
Posts: 113
Joined: 7/12/2006
Status: offline
|
Great idea im going to do that .u find so much mod here its great
_____________________________
RIDE IT LIKE U STOLE IT
06 ROADKING DEEP COBALT BLUE
16" WILD ONE APES
SE HVY DUTY AIR CLEANER
DUAL THUNERHEADERS
SERT
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" WAY TO GO :) - 4/6/2008 12:57:32 PM
|
|
|
FLHRI Rider
Posts: 33
Joined: 3/28/2008
Status: offline
|
if your still looking for an odometer reset switch for your garage door opener, i have one that im willing to give for cost of shipping
_____________________________
1996 FLHR-I
Porker Pipes
Lufkin, Texas
The heavens call God just, for He is Judge!
Ride Hard or Stay Home
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 4/6/2008 3:09:46 PM
|
|
|
relli
Posts: 1336
Joined: 10/3/2006
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: Lost1
For those unhappy with the stock horn's performance (or the lack thereof) here's how I replaced the cheesy stock item with a pair of FIAMM Freeway Blaster 130dB electric horns. The installation is simple (takes about an hour or so) and the bike will look completely stock when done. I chose FIAMM's because I've had them on every bike I've ever owned, they're reliable, and they'll wake up the dead!
I bought the horns from JC Whitney for $36 for a set of 2 (high & low tone.) High tone P/N is ZX133190A and the low tone is P/N ZX133191R. You may be able to find these same horns at a local auto parts store as well.
I bought a roll of 14ga stranded wire, a standard 15 amp fuse holder & fuse, some crimp-on male & female spade connectors, and a 12v, 30A relay (Part #275-226) from Radio Shack at a total cost of about $12.
Remove the stock horn & mount one Fiamm horn where the stock horn was. (No mods are necessary as the FIAMM mounts using the same bracket as the stock horn, & the chrome cowbell cover fits over the new horn so it still looks stock.) Leave the 2 stock horn wires disconnected for now.
The other horn you can mount anywhere. I mounted mine to a frame inboard of the right-hand saddlebag using an existing frame bolt (see pic.)
I mounted the 12v/30A relay in a cubbyhole just forward of the battery under the seat. (Your mount location may vary depending on what you prefer.)
All that's left is the wiring, which is simple (even for the electrically challenged, which I most certainly am) as the 4 terminals on the relay are numbered. Use crimp-on connectors as necessary. Using the diagram on the back of the relay package as a guide:
Using the 14ga wire you bought, lengthen and run the existing horn positive wire to terminal 86 on the relay.
Do the same for the existing horn negative wire & connect to terminal 85 on the relay. (These wires activate the relay when you push the horn button.)
Turn on the ignition and press the horn button- you should hear the relay click. If all is well turn off ignition. If not, double-check your connections.
Next, using the 14ga wire, run a 15A fuse-protected 12v hot wire from the + terminal of the battery to terminal 87 on the relay. (Leave fuse out till all wiring is finished.)
Then run two wires off relay terminal 30/51, connecting one of the wires to a terminal on each of the horns. (These are the hot wires to the horns.)
Each horn will have a terminal remaining. Using the 14ga wire, make a short jumper wire and connect one end to the remaining horn terminal on each horn & the other end to any ground. (I just used any available frame screw close to the horn.)
Tape all connections, then connect the fused hot wire, turn on the ignition, & the horns should blow when you push the stock horn button.
[My picture shows how I mounted & wired the rear horn. The wiring for the front horn under the cowbell is similar.]
Thumbnail Image
ive thought of adding a couple of mini stebels to that area. have to wonder if it would fit
_____________________________
07 FLHTC classic vivid black
06 Kawasaki ltd500 ruby red
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 4/6/2008 4:24:46 PM
|
|
|
Lost1
Posts: 1492
Joined: 3/10/2007
Status: offline
|
quote:
ORIGINAL: relli
ive thought of adding a couple of mini stebels to that area. have to wonder if it would fit
They might- the FIAMM's are pretty good sized horns & they fit real well...
_____________________________
'07 Electra Glide Classic- Black Cherry Pearl
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
RE: Stripped Transmission Dipstick Hole - 4/8/2008 5:17:18 AM
|
|
|
Wally
Posts: 1977
Joined: 9/10/2005
From: Ontario, Canada
Status: offline
|
Well done Lost1.
When you go to change the cover, you can save some money and time if you drive your wheels up onto the flat of a 2 x 4 or wider 2" such as a 2 x 8. With the bike parked on the wood, it will lean a lot further to the left when you put it on the jiffy stand. Now when you remove the transmission side cover you won't loose much if any of your oil. If you put it up and leave it for a while before you remove the cover, there won't even be a drop.
Good luck.
_____________________________
99' Ultra - SE Intake,D & D Fatcat,Revolution 98",BC Gerlomy Bored Throttlebody,GMR heads, Andrews 37 Cams, Tour Pac Quick- Tach,Sundowner, Hog Tunes, SERT, Sirius
105 tq. 95 hp
|
|
|
|
|
RE: "DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$ - 4/11/2008 5:39:17 PM
|
|
|
trfnj74
Posts: 28
Joined: 6/25/2007
Status: offline
|
| | |
Printable Version
