I have determined that there are mods all over this site! Why can't we just have a post for DIY Mods? So I started this post as a DIY MODS post. Everyone has ideas on Do It Yourself ideas. So I would like to have this post as a sticky!But I guess it depends on Terry. So let's hear it from all you guys out there about all your DIY mods and keep this available to everyone! The money you save here may be your own. [sm=americanasmiley.gif][sm=biker2.gif][sm=goodidea.gif][sm=icon_cheers.gif][sm=patriot.gif]

06 Cop Glide

K&N 3909

DIY 2 x 1 Exhaust system.

Cut off and plated the hole on the rear header pipe that went to the LS muffler

Replaced RS muffler with LS muffler

Instant 2 x 1

Good Luck

That's a good idea. It would have to be further broke down into types of rides (like the current forum is).

+1 on the pipes! I did it and it works great! You can use your left muffler bracket for your plate as well! Another DIY is cut off your grab rail and replace it with caps or spikes like I did. Drill and tap grip ends and add spikes adds a custom look.That's just some of what I have done! I am all about saving money and a personal touch! Here are some pics!
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/rule.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/112407_1404001.jpg
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/112407_1659001.jpg

I had a smoked lay down lens cover that the bulb melted a hole into. I was just going to throw the lens away, and get a new one. But, instead, I took one of the many die I have laying around the house (I am a craps dealer at a casino), and added that to my lens cover.

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great idea! i bought a garage door opener remote-split the case and wired a momentary switch to it. drilled a hole in the bottom of my windshield bag for the switch, put the remote in the bag. works great for about 20 bucks.

Another little, and very inexpensive, thing I did was when I added the passing lamps to my rk custom. I wanted the extra light, at night, and I like the look. What I did not care for was the look of the black wire coming off the light bar, to behind the nachelle, and into the head light housing. What I did was to go to Autozone and buy this plastic, chrome looking, wire conduit. I wrapped it around the wires, and into the housing. I think it really makes the light bar look finished, and was cheap to do. Even though it is only plastic, it has held up really well. In fact, it looks as good as the day I did it.

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ORIGINAL: relli

great idea! i bought a garage door opener remote-split the case and wired a momentary switch to it. drilled a hole in the bottom of my windshield bag for the switch, put the remote in the bag. works great for about 20 bucks.
How did you wire the switch to the remote? I have a Craftsman garage door opener, and was thinking of a way to connect a romote to my bike. What kind of switch did you use, and where did you buy it?

split the case on the remote-under the button is a circuit board with two contact points where the button hits when ya press it. solder a wire to each, notch the edge of the case to accomidate the wires and close case. wire a momentary switch to the end of the two wires and mount where you want. i used my windshield bag (left side) but have also drilled a hole in a sidecover on my last bike and had it mounted in there.got everything from home depot.

Thanks. I was thinking of somehow wiring it to the left acc switch on the stering column. Is that possible? Also, I had not thought about putting it under the left side cover. That is agood idea.

I don't use a radio on a motorcycle, but I really enjoy my GPS. The solution to mounting location was solved by removing the radio & replacing it with a billet aluminum bracket. Got a guy at a machine shop to fabricate it for me for $40. A few nuts, bolts, & some black RTV brought the cost to about $50. As a side benefit the change left all the radio buttons on the controls with nothing to do. I wired the right hand mode button (supplies a short) to a spare garage door remote. Cost $0! Now I have GPS, phone, & garage door at my fingertips.

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Looks good. Good idea, although, I would love a radio on my bike. LOLORIGINAL: Jinks

I don't use a radio on a motorcycle, but I really enjoy my GPS. The solution to mounting location was solved by removing the radio & replacing it with a billet aluminum bracket. Got a guy at a machine shop to fabricate it for me for $40. A few nuts, bolts, & some black RTV brought the cost to about $50. As a side benefit the change left all the radio buttons on the controls with nothing to do. I wired the right hand mode button (supplies a short) to a spare garage door remote. Cost $0! Now I have GPS, phone, & garage door at my fingertips.

local://upfiles/37940/27CF5C0487004EE39476B7A7EFFB0CE7.jpg

local://upfiles/37940/7C38EEB6A6684AD191BE5D9E61C969F7.jpg

ORIGINAL: PapaTravis

Thanks. I was thinking of somehow wiring it to the left acc switch on the stering column. Is that possible? Also, I had not thought about putting it under the left side cover. That is agood idea.


http://www.hdforums.com/m_1869873/tm.htm

[quote]ORIGINAL: PapaTravis

Looks food. Good idea, although, I would love a radio on my bike. LOL[quote]

Looks *food*?! Nah, too chewy.......8^) I know losing the radio wouldn't be popular with a lot of people, but my last two bikes weren't even offered without a radio & I never even turn 'em on. There was no removing the one from the BMW, but the RG offered a useful alternative.

BTW, with a couple of diodes to control current flow you might be able to use one of the radio controls for operating a garage door opener. Just a thought............

If you figure it out let me know as I would like to do that also!
:eek:

Great stuff!

A close friend made his own heat grips. Says they work great. They look ok and seem warm.Bought the heat elements online(cheap). I thought this was creative and worthy of mentioning. Also they are farely indistructable and lots of left over heat element, unlike reports of the store bought ones brakeing:D. sorry no pix

Here is the most bang for the buck mod I have done yet! Crankcase breather hose. I cannot take credit for it. jag1886 (http://www.hdforums.com/showProfile.asp?memid=43689)give me this tip so hats off to him!
Normal braid line is not cheap. Last crankcase kit I bought was a braided line from head to head with banjo fittings built in was about $65.00.
Here is a step by step with pics!

Local hardware store for a 3/8" braided sink hose with fitings.
I bought 30" piece since this was a trial run and not sure of length, cost was $5.74
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod.jpg

Cut one end off between the nut and crimp so that the crimp keeps the braids together.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod1.jpg

Measure for length. I chose to run the hose straight down to the inside of the frame and so the hose stopped just below the frame.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod7.jpg

Tape the braided hose where your about to cut it and hacksaw it off!
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod4.jpg

I used a clamp that came with my air cleaner kit. I left the tape on and slid the hose on the clamp and attached to the vent tube.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod2.jpg

Make sure your hose doesnt get close to the pipes or any moving parts. Secure with a zip tie if needed.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod8.jpg

I had alot left so 30" might be a little much for my route.
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod5.jpg

Now sit back open a cold one and enjoy the $6.00 mod. I must add that it looks way better in person then the pics. Looks way better than a piece of black hose. Also, it took me longer to post this then do the job!!!Hope this saves someone some cash!
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/creepy_02/breathermod6.jpg

http://www.hdforums.com/m_2522190/tm.htm

Here's my version of an economy Garage Door Opener on an Ultra. Can be adapted any dry area you can fit the opener circuit board. I removed the circuit board from the case and soldered in a HD Odometer Reset Switch. Foam taped the circuit board underneath the console. Drilled a hole for the switch through the plastic portion of the console opposite the CB Intercom socket. Almost looks like it was designed that way especially since the Odometer Reset Switch matches the one on the fairing. You could do the same thing through the fairing and mount the transmitter inside the fairing. The batteries typically last more than a year or so. With that battery life you do not have to access it very often to change the battery.



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I did 3 cheap mods. I took one of those rubber antenas from the parts store and tuck it up under the fairing then shaved off the stock one, then i took the horn off and put it undr the fairing then shaved the braket off, i also took the rear fender tip light and re-wired it to be a brake light not a running light.

How did you wire the fender light to a brake light?

Basically did the same with mine but used a garage door opener that used a 12 volt battery. I then wired it into the bike so when the key is on it has power, key off no workeee. This keeps anyone from opening your door if your bike is outside and also you never have to worry about a battery

The garage door opener mod seems fairly popular. My solution was to take a regular opener, take it apart and solder the switch connector into the always on position. I then took my fairing off and soldered a couple of leads from my high beam light switch to the battery connectors so that when the high beams got power, so would the opener. I then put the fairing back on. This way, when I fire the high beams, the opener fires and the door opens. Added benefit is that the opener is out of sight, out of the weather, and will only work if the bike is powered. Cost - spare opener, which I had anyway.

Bill

Do you know what the part number is for the odometer reset button is? I have an 07 Road Kink, but I'm presuming this part is the same for most HD's.

I had the HD remote opener, but it quit working. When I started looking into it, 3 of the four wires going into the unit were broken, right were it goes into the epoxied unit. Pretty much no way of fixing. I figured I'd look at doing this mod, it's much cheaper than the piece of crap HD charges $70 for (transmitter only)

http://www.hdforums.com/m_2527943/tm.htm

ORIGINAL: fxesuperglide77

How did you wire the fender light to a brake light?


follow the wires from the light tip, it is a 3 prong plug, if you use a test lead you will see that one of the spots is running light and one is brake light, just moved pin inot other location. you have to open the plug and move the deutsh pin to the other spot to do this.

Thanks. that is an easy Mod.

ORIGINAL: bsea

The garage door opener mod seems fairly popular. My solution was to take a regular opener, take it apart and solder the switch connector into the always on position. I then took my fairing off and soldered a couple of leads from my high beam light switch to the battery connectors so that when the high beams got power, so would the opener. I then put the fairing back on. This way, when I fire the high beams, the opener fires and the door opens. Added benefit is that the opener is out of sight, out of the weather, and will only work if the bike is powered. Cost - spare opener, which I had anyway.

Bill
I'm no electronics expert, but I think I could handle that one, except aren't most garage door openers 9 volt?
Won't the constant power to the door opener damage it or overheat it?

heres a cheap ez one,,,, I got new 100th grip end caps for my Dyna,, took off solid chrome ones,,
had them layin around,,so, sanded the plastic off the back , ,,, and epoxied one to the top of the oil dip stick,cover, quick,EZ,free,,, looks OK, better than polished Alum.

another cheap trick....
I moved the "eyebrow cover" on the dyna,,,, needed long chrome spacers.
went to hardware store, plumbing section, found chrome tubes for sink/toilet, right diameter,
cut them down,,, work/look great,

I made this oil filter wrench http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1223 from a piece of tubing and a length of nylon strap material.
In one end I drilled a hole through the tube to accept a large phillips screwdriver to act as the lever arm. If you have access to w welder, you could weld a cheapo socket into the ID of the tube so you could use a ratchet.
On the other end, I cut a slot to accept the double thickness of the strap material.
Loop the strap aroung the filter, take up the slack, and twist it off, useing the phillips screwdriver.
This will also work on ANY diameter filter you come across. I use it on my F350 truck filter also.
My mechanic had a bike in for service, and could not get the filter off, no matter what wrench they used. The customer really torqued it on after he did the last oil change.
I brought my wrench into the shop and "Wholah......filter off".

change the brather valve (FLHT2002)

http://www.caputmundicrew.it/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1261


change rear belt


http://www.caputmundicrew.it/tutorialcinghia.pdf


it is in italian [:o]

Here is one that I did out of desperation to get a place for sunglasses, gum and maybe a pen and some toothpicks. I purchased the HD 3 pouch assembly and popped it on. I have the HD 6" windshield on and it stuck out past the ends a bit more than I liked. Since it was already installed, the dealer wouldn't take it back. I really didn't like the two pouch version, (too small of individual pouches), or the larger single pouch version. Instead of putting it up on e bay, I came up with this. After cutting the bracket, I trimmed up the ends at an angle and touched up the edges. The two left over pouches were removed from the bracket, and attached on the inside of each saddle bag to hold misc small items to keep them from rolling around. I used industrial strength Velcro from Home Depot. Luckily I have a friend that makes custom gun Belts and holsters and was able to stitch on part of the Velcro to the bag. They seem to be holding in place well. seems to be a great place for things like wire ties, tire pressure gauge, spare turn signal bulbs etc.

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Odometer reset button part number(s):

Switch = 67854-98

Rubber Boot = 67880-94

That's a great idea. I've been wearing my door opener in my Mil-Spec vest pocket. That's okay when I'm coming from base, but I don't always wear it just goofing around town. I'll have to look into this. Hmmm wonder if there are any Genie door remotes on ebay for $0.50?
k

ORIGINAL: cegusa

Here is one that I did out of desperation to get a place for sunglasses, gum and maybe a pen and some toothpicks. I purchased the HD 3 pouch assembly and popped it on. I have the HD 6" windshield on and it stuck out past the ends a bit more than I liked. Since it was already installed, the dealer wouldn't take it back. I really didn't like the two pouch version, (too small of individual pouches), or the larger single pouch version. Instead of putting it up on e bay, I came up with this. After cutting the bracket, I trimmed up the ends at an angle and touched up the edges. The two left over pouches were removed from the bracket, and attached on the inside of each saddle bag to hold misc small items to keep them from rolling around. I used industrial strength Velcro from Home Depot. Luckily I have a friend that makes custom gun Belts and holsters and was able to stitch on part of the Velcro to the bag. They seem to be holding in place well. seems to be a great place for things like wire ties, tire pressure gauge, spare turn signal bulbs etc.

local://upfiles/31912/94982B7913C94CFDA48EA1E7EE6748AA.jpg

local://upfiles/31912/045A5C40F91E40CEA4AC9D4B394C7012.jpg

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local://upfiles/31912/B81B597E8792407F9C014F3D038A74E7.jpg


Cegusa,

Awesome idea with the pouches. Just added another item to my Christmas list.

why is this not a sticky yet?

thanx a lot rahall. looks like about $8.50 will do the trick:D

Anybody have a way to protect the screw that holds the seat down? I now have a Road Zep and I'd like to keep it.

Arvid

Take the cap off of a sport drink(the kind that opens when you pull on it) and install on qt of oil and you have a clean way of adding oil when you are on the road.

I kept loosing the seat screw and finally realized it was the base part(that was clipped on)that had gottin loose therefore causing screw to break loose...ect this might be worth lookin at.

Still not a "sticky" yet? Seems wierd when I keep seeing posts on DIY mods. Be nice to have one place for them and not have to search for it when you want a cheap mod. My 2 cents....... Not to mention the over 1300 views. I even recently recieved an e-mail on more info on some of my mods posted. Hope I helped bdjhog. I am a hands on guy who likes to save a buck, are you??

STICKY PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

Come On Terry! Can You Make This A Stickey? It Will Save Us All A Lot Of Time In Search Of...

Here's some pics of a diy air horn install. The horn portion fits under the stock cowbell. The compressor gets mounted in the cavity under the seat. Pretty easy and loud too. Cost me around $50. Start off buy getting one of these:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2137/ Stebel Compact Nautilus Air horns. They even come with a relay. These are the same horns that the Mini-Beast and HD Premium air horn's use. 139 db.

Go to the auto store and getenoughrubber fuel line to connect the separated horn and compressor.
Also get a plastic nipple fitting to connect the fuel line to the horn section.
You'll need some heavy gauge wiring and a fuse too connect the compressor and relay to the battery

You can separate the compressor from the plastic horn section and cut off the curved mounting pieces that kept it connected to the compressor housing.Run stock horn wires under the tank and use them to fire the relay. ( This allows you to use the stock horn button.)

I ground off some of the plastic horns "flare" to keep it from "peeking" out from under the cowbell, the zip tied it under the cowbell from the backside.



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true duals with stock exhaust cut down pipe on rear cylender halfwaybetween head & end of pipe install42.5mm freeze plugs from parts store one in top & 1 in bottom then use muffler clamp to fasten the cut pipe back together or have local muffler shop weld it back together install heat sheld done. freeze plug diverts allrearexhaust through stock crossover pipe about 10 to 15 bucks total or buy the same kit from a guy on ebay he sells them for 125.00

lay down license plate for flht. Used a dremel to raise the holes in the bracket. Used a bench grinder to grind down the bolt heads until very thin and cut a screwdriver slot in them. Reinstalled and now I have a laydown license plate bracket for about 15 mins of work. No $$$$

This is the best cheap DIY mod I have done to my 07 Ultra. It is to put an alarm siren that works with the factory alarm.
Go to Radio Shack and purchase Part #273-079 less than $6.00.

My local Radio Shack did not have the part in stock, but allowed me to pay for it in the store and shipped it to my house free of charge. I had it 2 days after I ordered it.

Don't know why HD sells the alarm and siren seperate, but read the post about the "Radio Shack" siren so I thought it would be an easy inexpensive fix and it was.

here is the post that I read about it in posted by ROLLNTIGER.

Removed the right side saddle bag and cover and then removed the electronic control module, 2 hex head screws. Removed the plastic cover, two nuts. Cut the head off the factory wiring harness. The factory wiring harness has three wires black, brown, and green. The siren only has a black and red. Take two pieces of shrink tubing and place over the red and black wires from the siren. Wired the red from the siren to the brown from the wireing harness and the siren black to the bike green. The black I just tucked back into the wireing cover. Test your connections! Slide the shrink tubing back down and used the blow dryer on high setting to shrink the tubing. The siren is small enough that I used some 3M emblem tape and secured the siren where the wiring harness was located. Simple using "cutacroshorty" as my instuction manual.

I was surprised at how small the siren is and never thought it would be loud enough. For those that have the alarm but no siren this is a great mod.

I did not cut the head off the factory plug. I stuck the wires in the holes in the factory plug and taped it all together. When I pulled off my plastic cover the plug was being held in a clip on that cover. As far as the sound, the speaker itself is very loud (120db), but after it is taped inside the plastic cover and the side cover is put back on it is not as loud. It is still very noticeable, but just not blaring loud. Any other questions let me know. I don't know if it will work on the 06 models but it seems like I read where there is a difference between the 05 and the 07, not sure about 06.

Good luck and feel free to PM with questions.

www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,208,00.html (http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,208,00.html)

Seen this post earlier and thought it needed to be here!

ORIGINAL: 05 Ultra

Don't know if you can see this but I had to replace the gas cap on my truck and it came with the retaining strap that all cagers seem to have now. I popped the strap off the old one, drilled a 1/4" hole in the top of the Harley cap and secured the other end to the under side of the cover. Looks like Harley did it and you can't loose the cap.



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[URL=http://www.hdforums.com/upfiles/1197/3AD5442568644EE9AB7DB7A35E4442DA.jpg] (http://www.hdforums.com/upfiles/1197/BE43B3F2595143C6A9BEB10C5788A1D2.jpg)

ORIGINAL: cegusa

Here is one that I did out of desperation to get a place for sunglasses, gum and maybe a pen and some toothpicks. I purchased the HD 3 pouch assembly and popped it on. I have the HD 6" windshield on and it stuck out past the ends a bit more than I liked. Since it was already installed, the dealer wouldn't take it back. I really didn't like the two pouch version, (too small of individual pouches), or the larger single pouch version. Instead of putting it up on e bay, I came up with this. After cutting the bracket, I trimmed up the ends at an angle and touched up the edges. The two left over pouches were removed from the bracket, and attached on the inside of each saddle bag to hold misc small items to keep them from rolling around. I used industrial strength Velcro from Home Depot. Luckily I have a friend that makes custom gun Belts and holsters and was able to stitch on part of the Velcro to the bag. They seem to be holding in place well. seems to be a great place for things like wire ties, tire pressure gauge, spare turn signal bulbs etc.

local://upfiles/31912/8A0943C6A8744387849FAFCBA64F38C2.jpg


What is that saddle bag lock setup?

Phill, Here Ya Go, www.hdforums.com/m_2527943/tm.htm (http://www.hdforums.com/m_2527943/tm.htm)Post#15

One more about the garage door opener: I bought a "key chain" remote opener for my garage door, small and compact, about 1.25" wide x 2.50 long x .375 thick. I used Velcro to attach it to the side of my steering head on the inside of the fairing on the right side. Out of sight almost, out of mind, out of the weather. Has worked well for several months on the Ultra, worked great attached to the side of with windshield bag on my Fatboy for about 4 years before that. PACO

radio shck siren mod is great mount the siren under the fairing cap it is much louder


http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l193/edchristman/100_2003.jpg

Here's one I posted a while back for hanging your windshield and backrests in the garage. Mine is of scrap wood, but follow-on replies by others are VERY nice (and cheap!). [8D]

http://www.hdforums.com/m_2096147/tm.htm

These are all GREAT ideas please keep them coming...........It is a good time while the temps are so low to give them some thought!

Why did you switch muffler sides?
Shrty

I carefully pulled the reflectors of my bag latches, cleaned off the doulbe stick tape, sanded down the back side to remove the form marksand lightly painted them gloss black. I then reapplied them to the opposite side (since they are mirror image,) black out with double stick tape. Reflectors gone and it looks much better. Cost ZERO!

Erdnase,



[sm=ttiwwp.gif]

[sm=popcorn.gif]
I'm waiting.

ORIGINAL: harley_504

lay down license plate for flht. Used a dremel to raise the holes in the bracket. Used a bench grinder to grind down the bolt heads until very thin and cut a screwdriver slot in them. Reinstalled and now I have a laydown license plate bracket for about 15 mins of work. No $$$$


Pics 4 & 5 - This mod worked great for me too. Did it tonight. Thanks harley_504. It was something on my list from the catalog that will not cost me the $50. It was free.


Pic 3 - is a CD holder in my left side bag. It's one of the car visor holders that I cut the elastic straps off of, placed adhesive velcro on it and the insid of the bag, and stuck it on. It's removable if I need to and fits great! Also out of the way.


Pics 1 & 2 -are where I decided to mount myMP3 player(Creative Zen VisionM 30 gig). Used heavy duty velcro from WMT and ran a 6' aux audio cable up through my tank dash, down in front of the tank, zip tied to the main harness, and up in front of the neck to the stereo. Pretty clean and I like how it looks. Easy to use too.

I just bought my bike not too long ago, so I have not done much to it...yet.

I really like this thread. It needs to grow...keep'em comming!

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ORIGINAL: Erdnase

I carefully pulled the reflectors of my bag latches, cleaned off the doulbe stick tape, sanded down the back side to remove the form marksand lightly painted them gloss black. I then reapplied them to the opposite side (since they are mirror image,) black out with double stick tape. Reflectors gone and it looks much better. Cost ZERO!


I would also like to see a picture of this.

ORIGINAL: mvinc01

ORIGINAL: Erdnase

I carefully pulled the reflectors of my bag latches, cleaned off the doulbe stick tape, sanded down the back side to remove the form marksand lightly painted them gloss black. I then reapplied them to the opposite side (since they are mirror image,) black out with double stick tape. Reflectors gone and it looks much better. Cost ZERO!


I would also like to see a picture of this.

I thought about doing that but found inserts cheap on e-bay!
[sm=ttiwwp.gif]

Hey Fast Eddie,

How well does the garage door opener work from under the dash? I have Craftsman opener, and they seem to be a little weak.

Thanks

I don't know if this qualifies as a DIY but; take an old 5qt oil container, cut the side out and lay it down to use to drain your fluids...fits under the bike no problem:)

ORIGINAL: 2003FLHPI

I don't know if this qualifies as a DIY but; take an old 5qt oil container, cut the side out and lay it down to use to drain your fluids...fits under the bike no problem:)


It's simple, but still a good tip. I'd say it qualifies. Antifreez jugs work good for this too. Cut them so the handle and screw top/spout stay intact. Also makes a good parts cleaning bowl so you don't use all your wifes good tupperware out in the garage. :eek:

ORIGINAL: BGHFD

Hey Fast Eddie,

How well does the garage door opener work from under the dash? I have Craftsman opener, and they seem to be a little weak.

Thanks



it went from working about 1 block from the house to 1/2 block from house

For $89 I added two Polk Tweeters to my Hog Tunes and they make a WORLD of difference!!

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/texas-Steve/CIMG0001.jpg


Close UP
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/texas-Steve/polkclsoe.jpg

How did you hook up the wires for the tweeters? Do they just tap into the Hogtune speaker wires?

ORIGINAL: Rodent

How did you hook up the wires for the tweeters? Do they just tap into the Hogtune speaker wires?


The Tweeters come with a crossover for each one, and I simply soldered the crossover lead to the Hog Tunes speaker wires on the speaker spades. I tie wrapped the tweeter crossovers (there about the size half a deck of cards) to one of the big wire harness in the batwingjust to hold them in place. The crossovers are totally covered with epoxy so not to worry about shorting etc.

Easy mod, and great sound.

Another mod I did for about $40 was the Moon Shield http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230155606674&indexURL= 1#ebayphotohosting This realy made a difference in wind (notice that it has "wings" that extend over the edge above the speakers), this helps with wind and you can hear your speakers better.

ORIGINAL: texas steve
For $89 I added two Polk Tweeters to my Hog Tunes and they make a WORLD of difference!!


Does the crossover retain the 2Ω impedence for the Hogtunes? What is the impedence of the Polk tweeters and what is the effect impedence after added the tweeters? The reason I ask is that if impedence is increased the output of the stereo will be lower, and it lacks power to begin with. Decrease it and the stereo may be in peril of being damaged.

Any photos of this crossover and the splice job?

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: texas steve
For $89 I added two Polk Tweeters to my Hog Tunes and they make a WORLD of difference!!

Does the crossover retain the 2-ohm impedence? Any photos of this crossover and the splice job?


It does increase the impedence, but there was no audible decrease in volume. I tested both connected and not with jumper wires, and no volume loss.
Unfrotunatley I did not take any pictures and the faring is back on - sorry. But it is realy easy, and of curse they dont have to be Hog Tunes speakeres they could be anybrand. I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs. Great improvement, and the small tweeters fit well on the fairing. You could take out two gages and put them in there if you prefer, but where I put them aims them directly to you.

ORIGINAL: texas steve

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: texas steve
For $89 I added two Polk Tweeters to my Hog Tunes and they make a WORLD of difference!!

Does the crossover retain the 2-ohm impedence? Any photos of this crossover and the splice job?


It does increase the impedence, but there was no audible decrease in volume. I tested both connected and not with jumper wires, and no volume loss.
Unfrotunatley I did not take any pictures and the faring is back on - sorry. But it is realy easy, and of curse they dont have to be Hog Tunes speakeres they could be anybrand. I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs. Great improvement, and the small tweeters fit well on the fairing. You could take out two gages and put them in there if you prefer, but where I put them aims them directly to you.



I was editing my original message above while you were responding, so there's more to the question--but I think you answered it. I assume the impedence increased to 4Ω. How do the tweeters attach, what size hole needed to be drilled, and what did you use to drill it?

[It does increase the impedence, but there was no audible decrease in volume. I tested both connected and not with jumper wires, and no volume loss.
Unfrotunatley I did not take any pictures and the faring is back on - sorry. But it is really easy, and of curse they dont have to be Hog Tunes speaker's they could be any brand. I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs. Great improvement, and the small tweeters fit well on the fairing. You could take out two gages and put them in there if you prefer, but where I put them aims them directly to you.

[/quote]

I was editing my original message above while you were responding, so there's more to the question--but I think you answered it. I assume the impedance increased to 4Ω. How do the tweeters attach, what size hole needed to be drilled, and what did you use to drill it?

[/quote]

It comes with a tweeter "cup" and the tweeter snaps into the "cup". The cup has two holes in the back, one in thecenter for drilling a small whole (you then use a nut/bolt to hold it to the fairing) and the other hole is for the wires to go thought the fairing. Both holes small than a pencil. Just use a regular drill bit - Really easy.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/texas-Steve/tweeter.jpg

The sound is a major improvement.[sm=goodidea.gif]

ORIGINAL: texas steve

It does increase the impedence, but there was no audible decrease in volume. I tested both connected and not with jumper wires, and no volume loss.
Unfrotunatley I did not take any pictures and the faring is back on - sorry. But it is really easy, and of curse they dont have to be Hog Tunes speaker's they could be any brand. I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs. Great improvement, and the small tweeters fit well on the fairing. You could take out two gages and put them in there if you prefer, but where I put them aims them directly to you.


I wouldn't want to remove any gauges, but obviously the speakers would have to go with the bike when sold, as otherwise there'd be two holes in each side of the fairing. Not a big problem.

What I think might be good would be to buy an inexpensive 4-channel amp as has been discussed on another thread, then wire it normally as a four-speaker system. I only wish there was a way to enhance the bass, but other than mounting speakers in the tour pak or saddlebags I don't see an option.

ORIGINAL: texas steve
I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs.



I just got to thinking, if you wired them directly to the old speakers (pos/pos, neg/neg) you are running in parallel, and thus your impedence would be 1Ω. It's been a while since I did stereo wiring and I'm rusty, so correct me if I'm wrong. That's why your volume didn't decrease and should actually increase, but it could also overwork your amp and cause premature failure. I think the best idea would be to add an aux. 4-ch. amp that specs at 2-4Ω, as I assume the Polk tweeters are 4Ω. Or, buy a 4Ω 2-ch. amp and wire the speakers in series. The 4-ch. alternative should allow you to tune the volume from the two speakers sets, which would be an advantage.

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: texas steve
I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs.



I just got to thinking, if you wired them directly to the old speakers (pos/pos, neg/neg) you are running in parallel, and thus your impedence would be 1Ω. It's been a while since I did stereo wiring and I'm rusty, so correct me if I'm wrong. That's why your volume didn't decrease and should actually increase, but it could also overwork your amp and cause premature failure. I think the best idea would be to add an aux. 4-ch. amp that specs at 2-4Ω, as I assume the Polk tweeters are 4Ω. Or, buy a 4Ω 2-ch. amp and wire the speakers in series. The 4-ch. alternative should allow you to tune the volume from the two speakers sets, which would be an advantage.



I blieve you are correct (yes the Polk Mdl# DB1000 are 4 ohm). I could simply add a 1 ohm resistor as well?

ORIGINAL: texas steve

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: texas steve
I simply soldered on tothe speaker lugs.



I just got to thinking, if you wired them directly to the old speakers (pos/pos, neg/neg) you are running in parallel, and thus your impedence would be 1Ω. It's been a while since I did stereo wiring and I'm rusty, so correct me if I'm wrong. That's why your volume didn't decrease and should actually increase, but it could also overwork your amp and cause premature failure. I think the best idea would be to add an aux. 4-ch. amp that specs at 2-4Ω, as I assume the Polk tweeters are 4Ω. Or, buy a 4Ω 2-ch. amp and wire the speakers in series. The 4-ch. alternative should allow you to tune the volume from the two speakers sets, which would be an advantage.



I blieve you are correct (yes the Polk Mdl# DB1000 are 4 ohm). I could simply add a 1 ohm resistor as well?


My old self-schooling on these matters is slowly coming back. You would be getting 1Ω output if both sets of speakers were 2Ω, but if one is 2Ω and the other 4Ω, that would be...
uh, 1.5Ω? That's pretty close. Your idea of adding the proper resister value would fix it.

[I blieve you are correct (yes the Polk Mdl# DB1000 are 4 ohm). I could simply add a 1 ohm resistor as well?
[/quote]

My old self-schooling on these matters is slowly coming back. You would be getting 1Ω output if both sets of speakers were 2Ω, but if one is 2Ω and the other 4Ω, that would be...
uh, 1.5Ω? That's pretty close. Your idea of adding the proper resister value would fix it.[/quote]

For a "Tiger" fan your pretty smart!! I live in Houston and have many freinds who went to LSU, and have been at several of the tailgate parties!! You guys know how to party!!!

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/texas-Steve/th_images.jpg


Have a GREAT Xmas!!

ORIGINAL: texas steve

For a "Tiger" fan your pretty smart!! I live in Houston and have many freinds who went to LSU, and have been at several of the tailgate parties!! You guys know how to party!!!

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/texas-Steve/th_images.jpg



We know how to party and play football. Hopefully, that knowledge will come through on Jan. 7th.

Geaux Tigers!!

I looked through here and didn't see my mod, so I will post it for ya.

I have size 14 shoes that do not fit between the front and rear foot shifters. So, I went to the local dealership and bought a $1.59 chrome short screw that matches the heel shifter screw and spacer and pulled the heel shifter offand replaced it with the short chrome shifter and some locktight. Took me all of 2 minutes and $1.59. The spacer from the dealership and the bolt are the same diameter as the front but only sticks out 1/2" instead of the stock2". Made all the difference in the world as I can now put my skiis on the floorboards with no issues. I will add a pic later this morning if I remember.

[sm=ttiwwp.gif]
I am Interested In this one. :D[:-]:eek:

In the spirit of "Improvosational Engineering" (I prefer that over jury rigging) I was removing myfairing from my Ultra yesterday and was being real carefull not to rub up against my spot lights and scratch anything, when it hit me. I reached into my rag bag (I keep for waxing and polishing) and pulled out two sweat socks, covered thespot lights and slid the fairing off, no fuss, no muss, no scratches.

Put a Harley Bar and Sheild on the socks, and they'd be Genuine Harley Davidson Scratch Inhibitors, $39.95.

Steve, could I change my tock speakers to 4 ohm, add the tweeters like you did and that be back to 2 ohm?

yep you would then have 2 ohm which is the factory standard.

Looks like a pair of DBF Dolphins, I happen to have a set of those myself.

SS-339 1966-1970

I made a nice inexpensive mod to my '06 RKC today. Found a guy that had a set of new takeoff hand controls from an '08 RKC for $30. Swapped them onto my '06, the updated levers on the '08 look really nice.

Just a quick one back to the Polk Tweeters. What is the final fix. I have the 4 Hogtune speaker system, I want to install the Polk Tweeters, (which is a clean way of adding more sound, but I can't find a local dealer), and not being stereo savy, I need to know what I need to purchase, where to purchase it from, and how to wire it up. It looks like more than a simple wire hook up, but sounds like it would be a super add on.
Inquiring minds want to know.

Wire Horn to Police Siren Switch.
I really wanted to do this to my Street Glide but can't due to the volume control switch but for the rest of you, I did this on my old Softail Custom:

Ahem....obtain the bottom switch housing halfs from a police bike.Idon't know what HD wants for them but I digress. (mine were $8, I didn't ask where they came from) Left one has the long Siren switch and right one has pursuit switch. Wired the pursuit switch to my passing lights and the horn to the siren switch. (no pictures, it was a long time ago but it ain't rocket science, just move the wires)

The cool thing is the Siren - now horn switch is right where it should be, by your thumb and it works in both directions. You can push it in with your thumb or flick it out with your thumb.
Now you no longer need to grope for the damn horn button!

Guys

I got asked by a PM to help out--and Im always happy to help

The tweeters will get paralleled in. So--the positive wire from the radio goes into the front speaker, and "y" off to the positive input of the tweeters x-over. The positive output of the crossover will then go to the positive in on the tweeter--do the same for the negative and your all set

The Crossover divides the frequencies of the tweeters from the "mids" so the overall load stays correct. You will be fine if 4 ohm tweets are used.

I have also had guys use Memphis tweets in this config with great results as well

Hope this helps--any other questions, and please email me at info@hogtunes.com

PEZ

Pez, I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product. I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2) Soif I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4 and that =1.3 ohms. If I'm doing it wrong please let me know. If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker. Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.

[sm=ttiwwp.gif]ORIGINAL: PEZ

Guys

I got asked by a PM to help out--and Im always happy to help

The tweeters will get paralleled in. So--the positive wire from the radio goes into the front speaker, and "y" off to the positive input of the tweeters x-over. The positive output of the crossover will then go to the positive in on the tweeter--do the same for the negative and your all set

The Crossover divides the frequencies of the tweeters from the "mids" so the overall load stays correct. You will be fine if 4 ohm tweets are used.

I have also had guys use Memphis tweets in this config with great results as well

Hope this helps--any other questions, and please email me at info@hogtunes.com

PEZ

ORIGINAL: texas steve

Pez, I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product. I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2) Soif I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4 and that =1.3 ohms. If I'm doing it wrong please let me know. If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker. Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.


This worries me too, and I eagerly await a clarification. If Pez says it will work reliably, I believe it. Now, I need to research these "Memphis tweets," and looking at them on their site makes me think the all-black design would look better than the Polk tweeters from a visual standpoint. The cost seems to be about the same, so what is best for this application, the soft-dome, aluminum-dome, or power-reference type? The last is considerably cheaper than the first two, $60 vs. $90.

Edit: The aluminum-dome tweeters are on Ebay for $65 w/shipping: http://tinyurl.com/2d62w6

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: texas steve

Pez, I know your good at what you do because a lot of people buy your product. I used to do a lot in electronics but it was many years ago, so I have to ask a question;.

From my memory (whats left of it) I recall the laws of resistance and if wired in parallel you have (s1Xs2 / s1+s2) Soif I have the main speaker at 2 ohms and the tweeter at 4 ohms I get
2X4/2+4 and that =1.3 ohms. If I'm doing it wrong please let me know. If that is the case our HD/HK is looking for 2 ohms, therefore it will be really pushing the output transistors.

I was thinking if I use a 1 ohm resistor ( perhaps 10 watt, as I believe you should use 10 watts per every 100W of power) across the positive and negative of the each ( L R) main speaker. Would this work?

Thanks for all your help, and great products.


This worries me too, and I eagerly await a clarification. If Pez says it will work reliably, I believe it. Now, I need to research these "Memphis tweets," and looking at them on their site makes me think the all-black design would look better than the Polk tweeters from a visual standpoint. The cost seems to be about the same, so what is best for this application, the soft-dome, aluminum-dome, or power-reference type? The last is considerably cheaper than the first two, $60 vs. $90.

Edit: The aluminum-dome tweeters are on Ebay for $65 w/shipping: http://tinyurl.com/2d62w6



Here is the reply from another speaker specilist and it matches what PEZ replied to me;

"When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."

So no problem!!

ORIGINAL: texas steve

Here is the reply from another speaker specilist and it matches what PEZ replied to me;

"When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."

So no problem!!


Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info! I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions. First, do I want to drill into my fairing? Ouch! That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever. Second, which speaker to get? Polk or Memphis? Aluminum or silk dome?

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.

[/quote]

Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info! I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions. First, do I want to drill into my fairing? Ouch! That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever. Second, which speaker to get? Polk or Memphis? Aluminum or silk dome?

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.



[/quote]

Get the aluminun as they are weatherproof.....the silk domes will get trashedif they get wet.I have the Memphis PR15's and they sound Geat!

local://upfiles/14102/1E58EC57EEBF45088D533B0AB1A57E81.jpg

local://upfiles/14102/86E924DFCF274BF7A9D62A9563A9CCE1.jpg

ORIGINAL: SGLarry




Man, this place is a cornucopia of useful info! I'm convinced on the impedence issue, but there are more decisions. First, do I want to drill into my fairing? Ouch! That goes against my grain, as the speakers will need to stay with the bike forever. Second, which speaker to get? Polk or Memphis? Aluminum or silk dome?

Another pressing question is whether or not to install an auxillary amp, which wouldn't affect the speaker decision as long as the amp can operate down to 2Ω.



[/quote]

Get the aluminun as they are weatherproof.....the silk domes will get trashedif they get wet.I have the Memphis PR15's and they sound Geat!

[/quote]

Well, the improvemnet in sound with the tweeters are well worth the holes. Which of course you wont see because the speakers are there. If you sell your bike, yes the low price of the speakers goes with the bike, but in the intrem you now ENJOY the sound!! By the way the Polks are marine rated as well.

here is the equasion for figuringohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5 1 devided by 4 =.25 so .25+.5=.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be1.33 ohms

if you use a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuringohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5 1 devided by 4 =.25 so .25+.5=.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be1.33 ohms

if you use a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


Ture, however the impeadence/resistance of a speaker is not constant. The formula aboves assumes a constant resistance, and it a accurate formula for pure resistance. Speakers change resistence as the frequency changes. Two audio experts (not me) were both given the question and both, seperately of eachother came to the same conlusion.

""When the tweeter with is crossover is wired in parallel with the existing speaker the amp will basically only see the impedance of the original speaker below the cut-off of the tweeter. Above that cut-off frequency the amp will see the tweeter in parallel with the Harley speaker. However, in all likelihood that speaker is a cone with a voice coil that has some inductance so its impedance is actually rising in this range anyway, which means paralleling the tweeter will likely not cause a real drop in the load to below 2 ohms, so all should be good."

So It Is safe to put in tweeters In a 2ohm system with no problems, Right? Is that the bottem line?

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuringohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5 1 devided by 4 =.25 so .25+.5=.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be1.33 ohms

if you use a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


If you wanted to have everything according to spec (2Ω) you could also connect the two speaker pairs (2 and 4Ω) in parallel, then connect a 2Ω resistor in series with the 2Ω speakers. That would put you at 2Ω, right?

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuringohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5 1 devided by 4 =.25 so .25+.5=.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be1.33 ohms

if you use a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


If you wanted to have everything according to spec (2Ω) you could also connect the two speaker pairs (2 and 4Ω) in parallel, then connect a 2Ω resistor in series with the 2Ω speakers. That would put you at 2Ω, right?


Absloute bottom line according to the speaker and crossover people I contacted is that speakers are not pure resistive, and thefore the formuala used for resistance is technically correct, but in practice, with speakers, it is not. Their opinion is it will be fine, and dont add the resistor (according to them). Mine are working great (Polks parallel) and the sound is a great improvement. So Iclick you and I are both fine. By the way the two experts were PEZ and a crossover builder for Theil speakers.

Iclick, how did your Tigers do? I did not get to see the game!

ORIGINAL: texas steve
Iclick, how did your Tigers do? I did not get to see the game!


LSU plays OSU in the BCS National Championship Game on Jan. 7th. SEC is doing well, 4-for-4 so far in bowl games--but Ark. is floundering against Mizzou at the moment. UT is handling Wisc. fairly well thru the 3rd quarter. More scores at the top of the hour. Stay tuned to this channel for complete sport coverage.

Thanks for the input on the tweeters. I'm leaning toward the Memphis tweeters (aluminum cone), only because I see an Ebay seller offering 11 sets for $50 + $15 shipping per pair. I haven't seen the Polk's anywhere for less than about $90/pr.

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: texas steve
Iclick, how did your Tigers do? I did not get to see the game!


LSU plays OSU in the BCS National Championship Game on Jan. 7th. SEC is doing well, 4-for-4 so far in bowl games--but Ark. is floundering against Mizzou at the moment. UT is handling Wisc. fairly well thru the 3rd quarter. More scores at the top of the hour. Stay tuned to this channel for complete sport coverage.

Thanks for the input on the tweeters. I'm leaning toward the Memphis tweeters (aluminum cone), only because I see an Ebay seller offering 11 sets for $50 + $15 shipping per pair. I haven't seen the Polk's anywhere for less than about $90/pr.


i ordered the polk componant system from parts express 5 1/4", the tweets ,& crossovers for 40.00 & baffles to help enhance the lws &mids should be here tomarrowhttp://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=267-737 &
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-786

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors!Vis versa, if you want to add tweeters and don't plan on mounting fairing mounted mirrors, borrow a mirror template and drill the holes for fairing mirrors. Then mount you tweeters. If you decide you don't like the tweeters remove them and install fairing mount mirrors, the holes are already there. Tweeters can come in handy! Just an idea..

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors!Tweeters can come in handy!

thats what im doing with my tweets

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two gages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put gages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors!Tweeters can come in handy!

thats what I'm doing with my tweets


Yep that will work - but - I temporally put them there (just held them in place) and the sound improved, but not as much as where I have them now. Higher up they are more aimed at your ears, and the separation (stereo) is much better as well. I too liked the idea of putting them in the gauge area. The temp gauge is useless anyway!!! Now if you switch and put the tweets in place of the gauges beside each main speaker (and move the others down) that would be good. I was going to do that, then I saw how difficult it appeared, so I went with the way I did it. You can look back at the previous page in this post and they don't look abstruse at all.

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors!Vis versa, if you want to add tweeters and don't plan on mounting fairing mounted mirrors, borrow a mirror template and drill the holes for fairing mirrors. Then mount you tweeters. If you decide you don't like the tweeters remove them and install fairing mount mirrors, the holes are already there. Tweeters can come in handy! Just an idea..

I'm one of those guys that wants to delete the fairing mount mirrors. I installed Wild1's 575 chubby bars and love them but, they really reduce the rear view visibility with the fairing mount mirrors. I've been trying to figure out something to cover the holes and I hope this is it.
Do you know for sure the tweeters will cover the holes or are you just thinking they will?

ORIGINAL: Wally

ORIGINAL: CREEPSHOW

I was just thinking about the speaker holes and thought if you had a standard, put them where the two guages go. That way if you were to remove them, you could put guages in, no holes! Also, for the guys who are worried about the fairing mount mirrors, this is a way to cover those holes if you remove the mirrors, if ya don't like the mirrors or bought a bike with them and wanna remove the mirrors!Vis versa, if you want to add tweeters and don't plan on mounting fairing mounted mirrors, borrow a mirror template and drill the holes for fairing mirrors. Then mount you tweeters. If you decide you don't like the tweeters remove them and install fairing mount mirrors, the holes are already there. Tweeters can come in handy! Just an idea..

I'm one of those guys that wants to delete the fairing mount mirrors. I installed Wild1's 575 chubby bars and love them but, they really reduce the rear view visibility with the fairing mount mirrors. I've been trying to figure out something to cover the holes and I hope this is it.
Do you know for sure the tweeters will cover the holes or are you just thinking they will?


I to have 575s and like my bars low with max pull back. So my mirrors are only blocked just a little at the bottom. You could go with the Kurykan mirror brackets and mirrors that extend out on the orginal fairing holes. Or they also make a windshield chrome peice that has mirrors at each end.

My bars are up as high as they can go for my long arms. I'm 6'3". I may be interested in the Kuryakyn mirrors that use the same holes as the HD fairing mirrors but, I'm way more interested in finding something that will fill the holes in the fairing and look nice.
My original question stands.
Do you know for sure the tweeters will cover the holes or are you just thinking they will?

ORIGINAL: Wally

My bars are up as high as they can go for my long arms. I'm 6'3". I may be interested in the Kuryakyn mirrors that use the same holes as the HD fairing mirrors but, I'm way more interested in finding something that will fill the holes in the fairing and look nice.
My original question stands.
Do you know for sure the tweeters will cover the holes or are you just thinking they will?


The answer is yes, you can put tweeters there. But , you'll have to put a 1" hole where the fairing mirrors were.
I did it.

As far as being reversable, yep, you can do putthe fairing mirros back ontoo. I did that too, as I decided that i didn't like the mirrors on the controls either. So I used a stick of the moldable JB weld ( yeah, that's right I saidi t, JB WELD,) ;-) to fill in the hole's and re-drilled and mounted the fairing mirros back on. Left the the tweeters flush mount bezels there too.

Here's before and afrter pics of the tweets mounted where the fairing mirrors were and then re-located to the upper fairing using the surface mounts.
( The Memphis Tweeters include 3 different mounting options. :-)


local://upfiles/14102/47E0ADC8D97D4786A82A489D7B80E4C0.jpg

local://upfiles/14102/514CBB4CE28E42AE9DD780CE9BDF14B2.jpg

local://upfiles/14102/75C7E6EBBB5741BE892AF445DB2D97CF.jpg

That's what I'm talking about. Memphis Tweeters are what brand?
Where would I find them?
Thanks
For what it's worth, I'm wondering if those are model 575 wild1's, as they sure look different than mine, and I definately won't be going back to the fairing mirrors as I'm real happy with the mirrors I have on the bars. I know they aren't as sleek, but the safety value went way up when I added the bar mirrors.

ORIGINAL: Wally

That's what I'm talking about. Memphis Tweeters are what brand?
Where would I find them?
Thanks
For what it's worth, I'm wondering if those are model 575 wild1's, as they sure look different than mine, and I definately won't be going back to the fairing mirrors as I'm real happy with the mirrors I have on the bars. I know they aren't as sleek, but the safety value went way up when I added the bar mirrors.



Check out Memphis Audio on the Web. They are the PR 15's. I got them locally here in Pittsburgh at Audio Commications.

The bars in the "before" pics are NOT 575's. I don't know who's they are, but I didn't like them ,so I swapped out for the WO 575's
which are in the "after" pics.

Larry

ORIGINAL: Wally

That's what I'm talking about. Memphis Tweeters are what brand?
Where would I find them?
Thanks
For what it's worth, I'm wondering if those are model 575 wild1's, as they sure look different than mine, and I definately won't be going back to the fairing mirrors as I'm real happy with the mirrors I have on the bars. I know they aren't as sleek, but the safety value went way up when I added the bar mirrors.



One seller on Ebay has the Memphis tweeters listed for $50 + 15 shipping. These are the aluminum-cone variety, which I understand is best for weather resistence. I might bite on this one, although I'm still traumatized by the thought of drilling the inner fairing. I don't like altering anything on the bike permanently unless necessary, but this may qualify.

http://tinyurl.com/2n8kv9

Do a Google search on "Memphis tweeters" and you'll find more sellers.

ORIGINAL: texas steve

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: XfasteddieX

here is the equasion for figuringohms or resistance in series 2+4=6 ohm load

in parallel 1 devided 2 =.5 1 devided by 4 =.25 so .25+.5=.75 then devide 1 by .75 =1.33 ohms

so if you use a 2 & 4 ohm speaker in parallel your load should be1.33 ohms

if you use a 4 ohm & 4 ohm in parallel cut 4 in half so so it will be 2 ohms


If you wanted to have everything according to spec (2Ω) you could also connect the two speaker pairs (2 and 4Ω) in parallel, then connect a 2Ω resistor in series with the 2Ω speakers. That would put you at 2Ω, right?


Absloute bottom line according to the speaker and crossover people I contacted is that speakers are not pure resistive, and thefore the formuala used for resistance is technically correct, but in practice, with speakers, it is not. Their opinion is it will be fine, and dont add the resistor (according to them). Mine are working great (Polks parallel) and the sound is a great improvement. So Iclick you and I are both fine. By the way the two experts were PEZ and a crossover builder for Theil speakers.

Iclick, how did your Tigers do? I did not get to see the game!


As someone who spent 20+ years in the car audio business i agree with Pez and the others, as long as the crossover is used there is no impedence problem. This is a great idea that i am seriously going to have to consider doing myself.

Oh yeh one other thing.....GO BUCKEYES !!! ;)

I Don't have Pics., But it Should be Pretty self evident in its description. I Started doing this minor mod about 20yrs ago, and it's CHEAP!
Size 14, or 15 Boots, do Not allow much room on the Floorboards, so I remove the Rear Shift Lever, and depending on the levers, I have found the Rear to be Slightly Longer, so I put it where the Front Lever goes, and leave the other lever off altogether. Then I Grab a Nice shiny Closed end Lug nut, that's close to the Shift Lever Shaft Diameter, drill the Threads out of the Lug nut, drill and tap a SMALL Hole for a Set Screw, (to Hold the Lug nut on), TRY to Drill and Tap it where the Old lever Screw would have been, there is a little Groove there.Don't forget your Loctite on the Set Screw too. There are TONS of Lug Nuts out there, so look for what YOU Like, and Go for it! Good Luck.

One final question for you Larry.
In my case, I have painted the inner fairing and reinstalled the fairing mirrors over the paint, before I realized the 575's were blocking the mirrors. When I removed the mirrors to see what could be installed there to cover the holes, I now see a ring in the paint the same size as the mirror base. It won't buff out, I'll need to put on something that is as large as the speaker base or a ittle larger.
Do You know if the Memphis Tweeters base is large enough to not only cover the fairing mirrors holes , but also the ring left in the paint by the mirror base?

ORIGINAL: Wally

One final question for you Larry.
In my case, I have painted the inner fairing and reinstalled the fairing mirrors over the paint, before I realized the 575's were blocking the mirrors. When I removed the mirrors to see what could be installed there to cover the holes, I now see a ring in the paint the same size as the mirror base. It won't buff out, I'll need to put on something that is as large as the speaker base or a ittle larger.
Do You know if the Memphis Tweeters base is large enough to not only cover the fairing mirrors holes , but also the ring left in the paint by the mirror base?


If you look at the first 2 pics in my previuos post (beforeI re-located the tweeters to the upper part of the faring,) you'll notice the "flush" mount option has a bezel ring that the goes around tweeters that they mount in to. They will cover the marks left behind by the fairing mirrors. In the 3rd pic, I just re-mounted the mirrors over the bezel. As you can see the ring is wder than the the base of the mirrors, so it should cover any marks on the fairing. Now, mind you, when you mount "flush mount the tweeters in this area it's not a perfectly flat area, so the there will be a slight space on the upper and lower parts of the bezel. Looks fine IMO.

Larry

ORIGINAL: DB10881
Oh yeh one other thing.....GO BUCKEYES !!! ;)


Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg

Steve, those Polks look great and I am thinking of doing the same thing since I am getting the inner fairing painted in a couple of weeks...I am thinking about loosing the ambient air gauge and the voltmeter gauge and moving up the oil pressure gauge.
The holes for the gauges are approx 2.25". What is the diameter of the speaker covers etc and do you think they'd fit? I pretty much don't have any other place to put them on my Road Glide... inner fairing is kinda busy lol.

Thanks
BM

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: DB10881
Oh yeh one other thing.....GO BUCKEYES !!! ;)


Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg


Too funny.....after we win you can send me a pic of your scoot decorated with a scarlet and gray sweater vest...lol

good luck [:@]

Looking for ideas/options for mounting a mini-tach on a Fat Bob.

ORIGINAL: DB10881
ORIGINAL: iclick
ORIGINAL: DB10881
Oh yeh one other thing.....GO BUCKEYES !!! ;)

Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg

Too funny.....after we win you can send me a pic of your scoot decorated with a scarlet and gray sweater vest...lol
good luck [:@]


We'll see, but to be honest, I wouldn't bet a nickle on this game either way. I think the team that wins will be the one that is the least off its "A" game, and LSU hasn't been on its "A" game since VT in September. Don't get me started. LSU is great on talent, short on discipline.

ORIGINAL: lonewatie

Looking for ideas/options for mounting a mini-tach on a Fat Bob.

I wanted a tach on my Roadie but after installing the detachable fairing could not mount it on the bars. Found this to be a great way to mount the HD mini tach and takes no time to glance at it while maintaining eyes on the road. I bought the mount from a buddy on eBay for $35. It is billet stainless and polished to a high gloss, matches the chrome very well. I am pretty sure he has a few more if you are interested PM me and I will put you in touch. I do not make or sell these, just came across it and it solved the issue...

The tach is a HD mini with silver face to match my gauges. Drilled 2 small holes in the dash and it is solid and does NOT vibrate, even at idle! The mount has the notch cut in it for the HD tach but any 2 5/8 inch gauge will fit it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/mikefragala/Road%20King/tach.jpg

When you say drilled in the dash, do you mean the speedometer housing? From the pic looks like the tach mount is attached to the speedometer housing on the front side, do I understand correctly? Thanks.

ORIGINAL: bigdaddy11311

ORIGINAL: lonewatie

Looking for ideas/options for mounting a mini-tach on a Fat Bob.

I wanted a tach on my Roadie but after installing the detachable fairing could not mount it on the bars. Found this to be a great way to mount the HD mini tach and takes no time to glance at it while maintaining eyes on the road. I bought the mount from a buddy on eBay for $35. It is billet stainless and polished to a high gloss, matches the chrome very well. I am pretty sure he has a few more if you are interested PM me and I will put you in touch. I do not make or sell these, just came across it and it solved the issue...

The tach is a HD mini with silver face to match my gauges. Drilled 2 small holes in the dash and it is solid and does NOT vibrate, even at idle! The mount has the notch cut in it for the HD tach but any 2 5/8 inch gauge will fit it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/mikefragala/Road%20King/tach.jpg

ORIGINAL: a.boogeyman

Steve, those Polks look great and I am thinking of doing the same thing since I am getting the inner fairing painted in a couple of weeks...I am thinking about loosing the ambient air gauge and the voltmeter gauge and moving up the oil pressure gauge.
The holes for the gauges are approx 2.25". What is the diameter of the speaker covers etc and do you think they'd fit? I pretty much don't have any other place to put them on my Road Glide... inner fairing is kinda busy lol.

Thanks
BM



Answered in a PM to you as it was long!!

Yup, the speedometer is less than an inch thick under the dash. Just drilled two small holes and attached the mount with stainless hex bolts with lock washers and nuts on the inside.\

Mike

Maybe this fits in here....it's been posted in an earlier thread, and everybody seemed to like it. It's an Excel spreadsheet I built using the 2007 Touring maintenance schedule. Use it to keep your service records so you don't have to mark up your manual...or to keep track of what's been done if you don't have the manual at all...

http://mikechildree.com/07TourMnt.xls

ORIGINAL: mchildree

Maybe this fits in here....it's been posted in an earlier thread, and everybody seemed to like it. It's an Excel spreadsheet I built using the 2007 Touring maintenance schedule. Use it to keep your service records so you don't have to mark up your manual...or to keep track of what's been done if you don't have the manual at all...

http://mikechildree.com/07TourMnt.xls



Thanks, I downloaded from your last post, really helpfull.

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: DB10881
ORIGINAL: iclick
ORIGINAL: DB10881
Oh yeh one other thing.....GO BUCKEYES !!! ;)

Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg

Too funny.....after we win you can send me a pic of your scoot decorated with a scarlet and gray sweater vest...lol
good luck [:@]


We'll see, but to be honest, I wouldn't bet a nickle on this game either way. I think the team that wins will be the one that is the least off its "A" game, and LSU hasn't been on its "A" game since VT in September. Don't get me started. LSU is great on talent, short on discipline.





Keep on DREAMIN LSU is not going to have a chance against OSU..............

I know I am beating the garage door opener thing but I can't resist:

http://www.hdforums.com/m_1388961/tm.htm

For those of you that have the key fob security system and would like to add a siren or wire your bikes horn into the system here is what i did.

I picked up two 5 prong relays at the auto parts store. Under the fairing I wired up by the diagram I attached. I know this drawing looks busy but it is really not that bad. I could have used one relay and depended on horn power from the security system but I didn't know if it would supply enough current over time and not ruin the security system. With the second relay I am able to pull 12 volts to the horn. If you do not want to use your horn you can wire into a siren of your choice instead of splicing into the horn power wire.

Total cost less than $9.00.

local://upfiles/8414/DF9AD23CC71C46A9BEA4B13AB6F12D31.jpg

ORIGINAL: HarlyFan

Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg

Too funny.....after we win you can send me a pic of your scoot decorated with a scarlet and gray sweater vest...lol
good luck [:@]
[/size]

Keep on DREAMIN LSU is not going to have a chance against OSU..............



Did something go wrong?

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: HarlyFan

Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg

Too funny.....after we win you can send me a pic of your scoot decorated with a scarlet and gray sweater vest...lol
good luck [:@]
[/size]

Keep on DREAMIN LSU is not going to have a chance against OSU..............



[size=4]Did something go wrong?



Uhm uhm, well....besides getting their butt kicked... i dunno.

ORIGINAL: DB10881

ORIGINAL: iclick

ORIGINAL: HarlyFan

Fear not the vest.

http://www.iclickphotos.com/Motorcycle/fear.jpg

Too funny.....after we win you can send me a pic of your scoot decorated with a scarlet and gray sweater vest...lol
good luck [:@]
[/size]

Keep on DREAMIN LSU is not going to have a chance against OSU..............



Did something go wrong?



Uhm uhm, well....besides getting their butt kicked... i dunno.


[size=3]It kinda looked that way from my armchair, too. Just wanted his take on the situation since he was so quick to opine. (Not to rub it in or anything, you know.)

Ive got an 01 ultra and I dont use the CB so I dont know if it affects it but I went to Advance Auto bought two 15" Antenaes with a curly and replaced my 42" whip ant looks great I bought for a GM product and they screwed right on used some locktight to keep em from unscrewin vibration and filled the gap where they didnt screw down all the way with acouple of "o" rings looks great and two ants were 9.00 bucks

Here's one for the Roadie Riders....

Wide Glide bars on Road Glide (http://www.hdforums.com/m_2693997/tm.htm)

Creepshow I like your license plate relocation idea.My question is how do you get the main license plate bracket of the rear fender.Do you have to go under the rear fender? Thanks Kerry you have a great looking glide.

ORIGINAL: kjtoys

Creepshow I like your license plate relocation idea.My question is how do you get the main license plate bracket of the rear fender.Do you have to go under the rear fender? Thanks Kerry you have a great looking glide.


Well, I have a standard. The original plate bracket was bolted to the grab rail above the tailight. It looks like this.

local://upfiles/42745/FA6636275A3341FBB22926187C88E8D8.jpg

ORIGINAL: kjtoys

Creepshow I like your license plate relocation idea.My question is how do you get the main license plate bracket of the rear fender.Do you have to go under the rear fender? Thanks Kerry you have a great looking glide.


The best way to get at the nuts that attach the license bracket is to remove the tail light. First remove the lens, unplug the four blade connectors on the back, and then two bolts that attach the tail light reflector. Once the light is removed you have a large hole from which to access the area where the nuts holding the license bracket are located.

thanks ill try that

I just installed a shortie antenna, I bought it at the auto parts store and it cost $6.98 plus tax. I am sure that someone else has done it but I thought I would share anyways. At least the bike does not look like a remote control scoot...

local://upfiles/45508/4737F25100D94BFFADBECAAA58021EE5.jpg

How is the reception, is it as good as with the whips or not as good? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and adding a booster unit if needed, so I'd like you know if I need the booster. Thanks.

I live and ride in the miami metro area, the reception is perfect, miami is as flat as a pankake not mountains or hills to deal with, it works 100% no difference..

Save your money instead of buying these short antennas just remove the stock and cut the bottoms of to whatever length that you like............

The ones on my tourpac where cut off when I bought the bike. They work fine.

The top ofthe aluminum oil dipstick looked plain,, I took my state quarter
layed iton a thick towel-------hit the back side with a pin punch----that made
the face of the quarterrise up and gave it the curviture of a dome,,fits nicely
over the dipstick with high temp RTV silicone--now I can pick my bike out of the crowd.
..well at least before I told you guys,,,,[sm=oopssign.gif]

ORIGINAL: Razerman

The top ofthe aluminum oil dipstick looked plain,, I took my state quarter
layed iton a thick towel-------hit the back side with a pin punch----that made
the face of the quarterrise up and gave it the curviture of a dome,,fits nicely
over the dipstick with high temp RTV silicone--now I can pick my bike out of the crowd.
..well at least before I told you guys,,,,[sm=oopssign.gif]


Interresting...Gotta pic of it?

I put a powered antenna inside the fairing and the reception seems fine. Out of site, and cleans up the bike a bit. While on a trip last year, some asshole broke off my shorty antenna and left it lying on the ground by the bike, with the American flag still attached!

Razorman, I did something similar to adorn my dipstick. I bought a 1" Sportster chrome caliper cover ($5 from HD), which is self-adhesive, and stuch it in the center of the dipstick head. Perfect fit. Not as creative as your approach, but looks much better than stock, and cheaper than a custom dipstick from HD.

PapaTravis, I'm diggin' that die you have for a nut cover on the console. Was it an easy drill or is there a special no melt speed?

I figure I'll post this here on the sticky because I "Did it myself" and it saved me a ton of $$$.

Well, I received my PCIII/Rush/K&N AC kit yesterday and installed it yesterday afternoon. It all went together very simply. Had to call FM once while resetting the throttle position, but then figured it out while on hold with them.

No issues. Great power. No pinging or exhaust leaks (used high temp gasket on the slip ons). Did I mention great power? I don't know where my MPG's will land yet, but I'll worry about that later. I have no hesitation whatsoever, anywhere. Even on startup, I let the ECM cycle through and then hit the starter. Even with the computer delay, I only noticed one rotation before it fired right up and ran smooth. There has not been any coughing, or stuttering, or anything as of yet. The bike seems to just run wayyyy better. I have noticed that the right side header is much hotter now due to the pipe configuration. Watch your boots.

I really like the sound of the Rush custom slip ons. They are louder than my stock, but when cruising down the road, I don't hear them anymore than I did my stock mufs. This is nice because it does not affect my stereo sound. But, you jump on it and they really wake up.You hear avery nice,loud,aggressive rumble on acceleration. You do notice the right side sound more, also due to the muffler configuration. It's not at all anoying though.

I will continue to listen for any pinging and watch my MPG. But for now, I really like this setup. It is very clean, easy, affordable and powerful. Exactly what I was looking and hoping for.

I did pics whilst I did the bike prepand install.I posted a step by step tutorial on my Photobucket page.

I'm sure most of this is child's play for most of you guys out there, but maybe I can help someone decide whether or not to do this themself, if they are unsure.

I skipped taking pics of some of the AC and PCIII install steps. It is all in the directions of the kits and is very straight forward.

Here are the two links. G'Luck!

Fuel Moto PCIII-Rush-K&N AC Preparation (http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/mvinc01/PCIII%20Rush%20KN%20AC%20Prep/)

Fuel moto PCIII-Rush-K&N AC Install (http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t172/mvinc01/PCIII%20Rush%20KN%20AC%20Install/)

That is a great idea. I have been wondering how to route a vent line. I tied a black hose but didn't like the look. thanks for posting.

Great pics of the install mvinc01. Love seeing installation pics since it helps to understand the process. Never hesitate to do them, you have folks who appreciate it!

Thanks Raxus. I love that sig pic man. She's frickin' hypnotic....getting sleepy....very sleepy....[sm=insomnia.gif]

I had a big time bone-head accident the other night, so I had to pull my fairing yesterday to do some minor repairs. Below are a couple more little things I did tonight while it was off.

Pics #1 & 2 Here's my version of the GarageDoor Opener mod.Had a spareCraftsman opener thatI paintedblack.Purchased the HD OdometerReset Button #67854-98 $9.95 and the rubber boot #67880-94$2.95 & some male/female shielded connectors.I cut the wires on the momentary switch in half and soldered the ends of two to the terms in the opener. Then crimped the male/female connectors on all four ends. This gave me the openerwith wires coming out of a hole going to the switch with QD's in the middle. Cut down some of the material under the glove box lid and drilled a hole in the front ofit. Mounted it all up with the screw on boot, and some HD velcro underneath. It works great and is easily removeable for batery change or throwing into another vehicle.

The scratches on the door are from and old cell phone mount I had there for my MP3 player. Next time I find $40 in the couch cushions, I'll proly replace it and redo the opener and B&S emblem.

Pic #3 Wanted to see what the red lighted guages look like. The lights in all the small guages just pop in. The Speedo and Tach are sealed units. I don't know if it's possible to change them. I'll see how this looks on my next night ride. So far, I kinda like it.

Also threw some poly-fill quilt batting inside the fairing, to back pack the Hog Wired speakers for a little better sound.

Next will probably come the Tune Trapper and an Hogtunes fairing amp.

I have some of that Profinish protective film coming in the mail. I'll probably do some detailed pics and a detailed write up of that install.

Side note...Then, after I got it all buttoned up,two of the windshield grommets were damaged in the accident and broke off whileI was reinstalling the shorty shield. The last thing I had to do. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the fairingagain to replace, butI have a funny feeling I will have to.[:@]

Anyone know what these little rubber nuts cost?Or a part number?





local://upfiles/26031/E20779F249164B73A7B21DBC5B733EC4.jpg

local://upfiles/26031/3CD301A2FB2649009ADC966E5F090BAD.jpg

local://upfiles/26031/87857741A8664913B7B698FC4F3AE47A.jpg

Thanks for all the info guys, i have learned alot from everybody. i actually was thinking about purchasing the HD garage door opener kit until i got some ideas from this site. what i did was solder wires to opener then conect them to a momentary contact toggle switch and installed the switch to an existing hole in the frame works like a charm and looks good thanks again.

local://upfiles/43419/00CADF5E6B3F43B4BBAAF4040F90DD2C.jpg

I did cut the original antenna before I just like this new antenna with the coil look to it....

If you want to totally get rid of your whip radio antenna, just unplug it from the radio inside the fairing and install a marine antenna. Just zip tie it to existing wired inside fairing and you wont notice a difference in reception. $15.00 PS just tuck the wire away somewhere and remove the old whip bracket.

ORIGINAL: big_al

I just installed a shortie antenna, I bought it at the auto parts store and it cost $6.98 plus tax. I am sure that someone else has done it but I thought I would share anyways. At least the bike does not look like a remote control scoot...

local://upfiles/45508/4737F25100D94BFFADBECAAA58021EE5.jpg


i just cut my stock one down.....free....:D


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/pughman/008-1.jpg

I did cut mine before but this one looks alot better with the spiral on it....

Cheap Police Saddlebag Inserts

$15 chrome plastic ones...i just got a set and recommend them...for the $ well worth it...my 2¢
Ebay Item number: 290202876501

$4 Black or Chrome car door edge covers for the lid too...i went with black, just cut to fit
at any auto parts store, walmart,etc

helluva lot less expensive than what if seem out there...sorry not looking to spend $200+

ORIGINAL: torq

Thanks for all the info guys, i have learned alot from everybody. i actually was thinking about purchasing the HD garage door opener kit until i got some ideas from this site. what i did was solder wires to opener then conect them to a momentary contact toggle switch and installed the switch to an existing hole in the frame works like a charm and looks good thanks again.

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i like that

yes you can change the speedo & tach but ittakes some modifictions to the speedo housing & back side of guage face i did mine my self

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ORIGINAL: mvinc01

Thanks Raxus. I love that sig pic man. She's frickin' hypnotic....getting sleepy....very sleepy....[sm=insomnia.gif]

I had a big time bone-head accident the other night, so I had to pull my fairing yesterday to do some minor repairs. Below are a couple more little things I did tonight while it was off.

Pics #1 & 2 Here's my version of the GarageDoor Opener mod.Had a spareCraftsman opener thatI paintedblack.Purchased the HD OdometerReset Button #67854-98 $9.95 and the rubber boot #67880-94$2.95 & some male/female shielded connectors.I cut the wires on the momentary switch in half and soldered the ends of two to the terms in the opener. Then crimped the male/female connectors on all four ends. This gave me the openerwith wires coming out of a hole going to the switch with QD's in the middle. Cut down some of the material under the glove box lid and drilled a hole in the front ofit. Mounted it all up with the screw on boot, and some HD velcro underneath. It works great and is easily removeable for batery change or throwing into another vehicle.

The scratches on the door are from and old cell phone mount I had there for my MP3 player. Next time I find $40 in the couch cushions, I'll proly replace it and redo the opener and B&S emblem.

Pic #3 Wanted to see what the red lighted guages look like. The lights in all the small guages just pop in. The Speedo and Tach are sealed units. I don't know if it's possible to change them. I'll see how this looks on my next night ride. So far, I kinda like it.

Also threw some poly-fill quilt batting inside the fairing, to back pack the Hog Wired speakers for a little better sound.

Next will probably come the Tune Trapper and an Hogtunes fairing amp.

I have some of that Profinish protective film coming in the mail. I'll probably do some detailed pics and a detailed write up of that install.

Side note...Then, after I got it all buttoned up,two of the windshield grommets were damaged in the accident and broke off whileI was reinstalling the shorty shield. The last thing I had to do. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the fairingagain to replace, butI have a funny feeling I will have to.[:@]

Anyone know what these little rubber nuts cost?Or a part number?





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loca