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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 5:24:57 AM   
SPECIAL ED


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From: Templeton California
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Alright here's my fender chop job in a nut shell










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Post #: 41
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 6:05:34 AM   
Chipstah



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Awesome ideas guys - thanks for the thread topic mud.

Here's a few obvious (but not mentioned yet) el cheapo mods:

remove reflectors (fishing line & Goo-Gone do a good job). FREE if ya fish and clean much, otherwise under $10.

remove tank badge/emblem if the stick-on type. FREE (use supplies from above!)

remove fender !!!!!! FREE or make money by selling your fender!

slide fork up into trees to lower front. FREE

stainless headlight visor. FREE if ya make it or under $10 at swap meet.

remove battery cover band, fill holes with round black auto interior trim push on covers. Under $3

< Message edited by Chipstah -- 12/5/2007 6:16:15 AM >


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Post #: 42
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 7:41:14 AM   
Zimbob


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From: Grottoes Va.
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For all us "outlawed" smokers. Tank pocket. Get a cigg. holder; approx $6. Remove the belt loop; free, cut a slit on the bottom between the leather, ( cut the stitching ) take a piece of .062" alu. about 3/4" longer than the pouch, same width as the inside and drill a clearence hole for the screw in the bottom of the dash. slightly bend the alum. 3/4" from the end with the hole. this will help to hold it down, slide it into the slot in the pouch. Now just screw it down on the dash. If you have a tank bra, you won't see the mount. cost is less than $8. H.D wants $80 for the same thing and it won't hold a lighter either, this one will.

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Post #: 43
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 8:00:10 AM   
SPECIAL ED


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From: Templeton California
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Might as well throw my front fender in there too, a dremmel bit, some JB weld and a can of Krylon Semi Flat Black gets ya a custom front fender for around $20.If you don't know what I'm talking about I removed the mounting bracket from my fender with a dremmel, filled the holes with JB Weld and re mounted the bracket with JB Weld to the front of the original mounting point.Like so.. I also slotted the mounting holes to give me more adjustability









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Post #: 44
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 8:44:43 AM   
07bobber


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Zimbob

For all us "outlawed" smokers. Tank pocket. Get a cigg. holder; approx $6. Remove the belt loop; free, cut a slit on the bottom between the leather, ( cut the stitching ) take a piece of .062" alu. about 3/4" longer than the pouch, same width as the inside and drill a clearence hole for the screw in the bottom of the dash. slightly bend the alum. 3/4" from the end with the hole. this will help to hold it down, slide it into the slot in the pouch. Now just screw it down on the dash. If you have a tank bra, you won't see the mount. cost is less than $8. H.D wants $80 for the same thing and it won't hold a lighter either, this one will.


HEY ZIMBOB SHOW SUM PICS OF THIS MOD

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Post #: 45
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 3:31:30 PM   
Varmint

 

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Tank Mod.  Pictures aint that clear. Lotsa dust. And my lines in the backround look blue??? Frikin nikkon.
One pic thats not seen is the routing I did to the modded plate to accomodate for clearance. The battery on my camera died, and had to finish
'for the old lady threw a tantrum. (She's got me decorating for XMAS)

Real cheap mod.  Raised the tank up 1 3/4".  Took 2 hrs.

Materials:
One piece aluminum flat stock 1" x 3/16"  Cost: $.0  (had it laying around in my shop)
One piece 1/2" Aluminun tube stock. Cost:  $4.00  (lowes)
One 5/16" x 3 1/2" cap screw.  Cost: .69c
Two 5/16" acorn nuts.  Cost: $1.10
One can of spray paint.  Cost  $.0  (had it in my shop. Wish it was flat, not gloss)

Problems/complications...........F UCKIN' VENT HOSE, Wife.  Other than that, real smooth Mod.








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Post #: 46
divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 3:34:58 PM   
x2lee



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From: Appling GA
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Parts were less than 10 bucks, 2  30" 3/8s chrome over copper lav supply lines from Lowes, 6"
of 3/8 gas line some 3/8s clamps and some black drawtites... I took the line that reversed back into
the K&N off and just added the 3/8s lav line to it there. I cut it after bending where it I wanted it
at the 90 angle back down to the brake line. Run another one from the rear and bend it till you like the fit and use the drawtites to connect the line to the frame ( make sure to dump the oil where it dont get on your tire). I laced mine under the brake line to keep it from moving or rattling.  Trim the excess off the drawtights and no more oil in your filter...


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I cut the rear line off flush where the muffler mount ends because I installed hooker headers last week. I added a short piece of gasline cut on a slant to keep the oilfoam away from my tires. Here is a pic. You cant really see the exit you have to bend down to see it.


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< Message edited by x2lee -- 2/11/2008 4:19:24 PM >


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Post #: 47
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 3:38:41 PM   
JRK5892



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mud... how about that breather mod??? when you re ran your breather lines?????

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Post #: 48
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 4:31:49 PM   
74c10sb


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this is a simple mod for any one running an a/n big sucker or hd stage 1 air filter
if you are running one of these filter kits then you probly already noticed that the
front of the filter seems to be the only part that gets dirty and the rest stays that
nice redish color what i did was take a piece of paper cut to the inside of the filter
to get the holes in the right place i rotated the filter about 180 and drilled new 1/4"
holes now this gives you a nice clean surface for the incoming air just make sure that
you remove any metal shavings from the filter


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< Message edited by 74c10sb -- 12/6/2007 7:04:29 AM >


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Post #: 49
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 4:56:30 PM   
TARTAN2


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Great thread Mud as usual


Heres one for blacked out top fork tubes


Get a length of 53mm plastic gutter tube from hardware store $4 - $6 , measure length from bottom of top yoke to top of bottom yoke , cut to size , cut down the back , wrap masking tape twice around tubes to stop rubbing , add a small spot of silicon onto the masking tape to stop cover from spinning , spread open the pipe , place over the fork tube and it will snap back into shape ..... a little polish and bob's your uncle !


Time 30 minutes ...cost pennies !!!!!

 

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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 7:23:18 PM   
HOGRIDA_06



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Varmint, Nice post, thats how I lifted my tank.  Only difference is instead of the piece of tubing I used two short bolts.  Also used Stainless instead of aluminum.

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Post #: 51
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 7:36:03 PM   
HOGRIDA_06



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quote:

ORIGINAL: HOGRIDA_06

Front turn signal relocation..............

1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2"..............

Drill hole in one end big enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt...............

Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt)..................

Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long.................

Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer.   



Took some pics. tonight.   The thread of the bolt is 5/16-24, 2.5" long should be plenty long enough.  The tubing spacer needs to be about a .5" shorter than the bolt. 





I run cheap aftermarket LED's but heres a crappy pic. of this set up on my bike.


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Post #: 52
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 8:28:45 PM   
caveman76


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From: springfield missouri
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by the way hog rida I got that plate bracket and installed it. looks as good as i thought it would. simplicity is a good style imoa. thanks for the quaility i was also impressed w/the price.

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Post #: 53
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 9:52:01 PM   
128auto


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$25 remote control garage door opener
$5 side mounted curve license plate mod
$5 labor turn signal relocation mod
All for less than $50, labor excluded


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Post #: 54
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:49:59 PM   
mudpuddle


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Nice job mat.

Keep us updated, interesting.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: matkiwi

£2 ($5) seat mod ...

Took out the centre and fitted memory foam and trimmed the sides. Its a very easy job to do and the seat is far more comfortable. Just used an old knife and heated it in a flame to cut smoothly and evostick glue to put it all back together. A few trys to get it perfect so don't reglue the cover till you are happy ... duck tape is your friend. Under the top piece of foam are several layers to get the right depth and some back support. Leave the original firmer foam on the sides to balance the seat.

I'm very happy with it but you really need lumbar support for a longer trip, I do this by strapping a bag on my luggage rack ... 500mile days are no problem. Longer reach for my legs on the highway pegs plus they don't feel so 'spread' anymore after a ride.

I'm now in the process of making a new seat as a winter project but I'm struggling to get it even close to being as comfortable as this seat !

Mat

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Post #: 55
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:50:17 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: XKROME
as far as the length i didn't measure but it took a couple of try's on the first one
because i came up short. it takes more than you would think
to do a double layer, i think about 6 feet is long enough.
i went to my local Tandy Leather
and they had a tool that cut them out of a single
2 foot square piece of leather and charged me 5$


Thanx for the info XK.

I really like this one.
Need to find time to execute this on the MudGlide.

The rear turn signal relocate is a good one as well.

mud

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Post #: 56
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:50:37 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: SPECIAL ED

Alright here's my fender chop job in a nut shell



Good job ED.

Appreciate the pix.

Simple operation. Easy cabin fever fix for many.

mud

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Post #: 57
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:50:55 PM   
mudpuddle


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Way to tie up the loose ends Chip.

I know you got a few more up your sleeve.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: Chipstah

Awesome ideas guys - thanks for the thread topic mud.

Here's a few obvious (but not mentioned yet) el cheapo mods:

remove reflectors (fishing line & Goo-Gone do a good job). FREE if ya fish and clean much, otherwise under $10.

remove tank badge/emblem if the stick-on type. FREE (use supplies from above!)

remove fender !!!!!! FREE or make money by selling your fender!

slide fork up into trees to lower front. FREE

stainless headlight visor. FREE if ya make it or under $10 at swap meet.

remove battery cover band, fill holes with round black auto interior trim push on covers. Under $3

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Post #: 58
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:51:12 PM   
mudpuddle


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Thank you Zim.

a MUSTHAVE add.

Still waiting for *someone* *doug*
to detail the steps for the lighter.

mud



quote:

ORIGINAL: Zimbob

For all us "outlawed" smokers. Tank pocket. Get a cigg. holder; approx $6. Remove the belt loop; free, cut a slit on the bottom between the leather, ( cut the stitching ) take a piece of .062" alu. about 3/4" longer than the pouch, same width as the inside and drill a clearence hole for the screw in the bottom of the dash. slightly bend the alum. 3/4" from the end with the hole. this will help to hold it down, slide it into the slot in the pouch. Now just screw it down on the dash. If you have a tank bra, you won't see the mount. cost is less than $8. H.D wants $80 for the same thing and it won't hold a lighter either, this one will.

(in reply to Zimbob)
Post #: 59
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:51:37 PM   
mudpuddle


Posts: 4448
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Good one Varmint.

Very basic,

good starter project. 

Very few tools required.

A cabin fever special.

mud


quote:

ORIGINAL: Varmint

Tank Mod.  Pictures aint that clear. Lotsa dust. And my lines in the backround look blue??? Frikin nikkon.
One pic thats not seen is the routing I did to the modded plate to accomodate for clearance. The battery on my camera died, and had to finish
'for the old lady threw a tantrum. (She's got me decorating for XMAS)

Real cheap mod.  Raised the tank up 1 3/4".  Took 2 hrs.

Materials:
One piece aluminum flat stock 1" x 3/16"  Cost: $.0  (had it laying around in my shop)
One piece 1/2" Aluminun tube stock. Cost:  $4.00  (lowes)
One 5/16" x 3 1/2" cap screw.  Cost: .69c
Two 5/16" acorn nuts.  Cost: $1.10
One can of spray paint.  Cost  $.0  (had it in my shop. Wish it was flat, not gloss)

Problems/complications...........F UCKIN' VENT HOSE, Wife.  Other than that, real smooth Mod.


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Post #: 60
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 10:52:10 PM   
mudpuddle


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Hey lee - why dont you move the pix over here??

Nice job you did on it.

Doesn't seem it went over all that well

at the Chat section of this forum.

You're welcome over here.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: x2lee

Under 10 bucks mod, no more oil on your jeans or side of bike.
http://www.hdforums.com/m_2495121/tm.htm

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Post #: 61
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 10:52:48 PM   
mudpuddle


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Good thinkin c10.

Keep em comin.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: 74c10sb

this is a simple mod for any one running an a/n big sucker or hd stage 1 air filter
if you are running one of these filter kits then you probly already noticed that the
front of the filter seems to be the only part that gets dirty and the rest stays that
nice redish color what i did was take a piece of paper cut to the inside of the filter
to get the holes in the right place i rotated the filter about 180 and drilled new 1/4"
holes now this gives you a nice clean surface for the incoming air just make sure that
you remove any metal shavings frome the filter


Thumbnail Image


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Post #: 62
RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 10:53:10 PM   
mudpuddle


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I have been wondering how you did that
since I first saw your pix.

Quick thinkin TARTAN.
Outta the box.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: TARTAN2

Great thread Mud as usual


Heres one for blacked out top fork tubes


Get a length of 53mm plastic gutter tube from hardware store $4 - $6 , measure length from bottom of top yoke to top of bottom yoke , cut to size , cut down the back , wrap masking tape twice around tubes to stop rubbing , add a small spot of silicon onto the masking tape to stop cover from spinning , spread open the pipe , place over the fork tube and it will snap back into shape ..... a little polish and bob's your uncle !


Time 30 minutes ...cost pennies !!!!!



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Post #: 63
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:53:38 PM   
mudpuddle


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Thanx RIDA.

The very basics get the job done every time.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: HOGRIDA_06

Front turn signal relocation..............

1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2"..............

Drill hole in one end big enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt...............

Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt)..................

Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long.................

Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer.   



Took some pics. tonight.   The thread of the bolt is 5/16-24, 2.5" long should be plenty long enough.  The tubing spacer needs to be about a .5" shorter than the bolt. 





I run cheap aftermarket LED's but heres a crappy pic. of this set up on my bike.


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Post #: 64
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 11:03:27 PM   
mudpuddle


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Thanx auto.

nice stuff.

Also reminds me that we have a **** here.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: 128auto

$25 remote control garage door opener
$5 side mounted curve license plate mod
$5 labor turn signal relocation mod
All for less than $50, labor excluded



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Post #: 65
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 6:50:53 AM   
Smiley51


Posts: 349
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Status: offline
Theeboy On the rear turn signal mod you didn't use any kind of a spacer for the signals. You just used shorter bolts? And are those the OEM signals with the smoked lens? Man I am pumped about this thread there are some cool and cheap mods. This is like Christmas presents.
                                                              Smiley

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Post #: 66
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 11:06:40 AM   
TheeBoy

 

Posts: 303
Joined: 2/13/2007
Status: offline
Yup, basically, I weny under the rear fender, loosenedthe bolt that attaches the light to the fender mount and cut the stock turn signal off.  removed the stock count that causes the light to sticik out about 3", removed the appropriate amount of wiring from the signal, soldered and electrial taped back together and went to ace hardware aobut 3 times to find a bolt the proper length  I remember it being about 1" or even 3/4".  bolted the rear signal straight to the fender.  make sure to tighten them down real good and be aware they still may move if you torque them by had but other than me f---ing with it and making sure they are still tight they haven't moved on their own in over 1500 miles

I actually have the kuryakyn panacea break light and turn signal, that's way my signals are smoked

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Post #: 67
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 11:08:18 AM   
TheeBoy

 

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I mean  *removed the stock mount that causes the ....*   should read my sh!t over before I post it

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Post #: 68
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 1:02:20 PM   
tree88


Posts: 183
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From: killeen texas
Status: offline
Another air cleaner "mod"- after pricing a replacement element for my bike, i decided that it was too d@mn expensive, so i stopped by the local auto parts store (twilight zone in this case), and picked up an edelbrock pro-flo air cleaner assembly meant for a 4bbl holley. upon returning home i removed the factory air filter and cut the top off of it (the mounting flange) and discarded the rest. I had to open the neck on the new filter up from 5 1/8" to 6 1/4" to get it to fit over the backing plate for the carb (not that hard, just used pliers, hammer, dolley and patience). ran the stock air filter cover screw through the top  plate backwards (threads pointing out) and put a nut, as well as some loctite, on the backside to prevent it coming out. re-mounted the top plate and then secured the base for the new air filter to it. then i snapped on the top part of the pro-flo. The proflo is designed to be run dry or with a slight bit of oil in the foam element... don't worry about oiling it, the bike will do it for you. It flows 1000cfm and only needs to washed with soap and water every 2000miles. total cost 29.75 (24.95 for the pro-flo, 1.97 for loc-tite, and 1.35 for the nut... plus tax.) btw- i sealed the air filter base to the backing plate with some black rtv (not included in price total)



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