RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 5:24:57 AM
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SPECIAL ED
Posts: 1628
Joined: 6/13/2006 From: Templeton California Status: offline
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Alright here's my fender chop job in a nut shell
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06 STREET BOB, WORLDS MOST EXPENSIVE RAT BIKE
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 6:05:34 AM
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Chipstah
 Multiple Time Contributor Posts: 1802
Joined: 12/15/2006 From: The Woods of NH Status: offline
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Awesome ideas guys - thanks for the thread topic mud. Here's a few obvious (but not mentioned yet) el cheapo mods: remove reflectors (fishing line & Goo-Gone do a good job). FREE if ya fish and clean much, otherwise under $10. remove tank badge/emblem if the stick-on type. FREE (use supplies from above!) remove fender !!!!!! FREE or make money by selling your fender! slide fork up into trees to lower front. FREE stainless headlight visor. FREE if ya make it or under $10 at swap meet. remove battery cover band, fill holes with round black auto interior trim push on covers. Under $3
< Message edited by Chipstah -- 12/5/2007 6:16:15 AM >
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'07 Bobstah Lowered w/Progressives V&H SS wrapped Tank Lift Mustang Vintage Solo Tombstone Taillight It's Not How Fast You Go, It's How You Go Fast!
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 7:41:14 AM
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Zimbob
Posts: 991
Joined: 12/14/2006 From: Grottoes Va. Status: online
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For all us "outlawed" smokers. Tank pocket. Get a cigg. holder; approx $6. Remove the belt loop; free, cut a slit on the bottom between the leather, ( cut the stitching ) take a piece of .062" alu. about 3/4" longer than the pouch, same width as the inside and drill a clearence hole for the screw in the bottom of the dash. slightly bend the alum. 3/4" from the end with the hole. this will help to hold it down, slide it into the slot in the pouch. Now just screw it down on the dash. If you have a tank bra, you won't see the mount. cost is less than $8. H.D wants $80 for the same thing and it won't hold a lighter either, this one will.
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If you choke a Smurf, what color does he turn ? 2007 Road King Classic - new project 2002 sportster 883R/1200 - traded 1985 Honda VF700S - wore slam out 1969 Triumph TR6R - wore slam out
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 8:00:10 AM
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SPECIAL ED
Posts: 1628
Joined: 6/13/2006 From: Templeton California Status: offline
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Might as well throw my front fender in there too, a dremmel bit, some JB weld and a can of Krylon Semi Flat Black gets ya a custom front fender for around $20.If you don't know what I'm talking about I removed the mounting bracket from my fender with a dremmel, filled the holes with JB Weld and re mounted the bracket with JB Weld to the front of the original mounting point.Like so.. I also slotted the mounting holes to give me more adjustability   
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06 STREET BOB, WORLDS MOST EXPENSIVE RAT BIKE
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 8:44:43 AM
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07bobber
Posts: 1512
Joined: 3/27/2007 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Zimbob For all us "outlawed" smokers. Tank pocket. Get a cigg. holder; approx $6. Remove the belt loop; free, cut a slit on the bottom between the leather, ( cut the stitching ) take a piece of .062" alu. about 3/4" longer than the pouch, same width as the inside and drill a clearence hole for the screw in the bottom of the dash. slightly bend the alum. 3/4" from the end with the hole. this will help to hold it down, slide it into the slot in the pouch. Now just screw it down on the dash. If you have a tank bra, you won't see the mount. cost is less than $8. H.D wants $80 for the same thing and it won't hold a lighter either, this one will. HEY ZIMBOB SHOW SUM PICS OF THIS MOD
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KEEP THE SHINY SIDE UP!!!
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divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 3:34:58 PM
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x2lee
 Posts: 3283
Joined: 4/27/2007 From: Appling GA Status: offline
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Parts were less than 10 bucks, 2 30" 3/8s chrome over copper lav supply lines from Lowes, 6" of 3/8 gas line some 3/8s clamps and some black drawtites... I took the line that reversed back into the K&N off and just added the 3/8s lav line to it there. I cut it after bending where it I wanted it at the 90 angle back down to the brake line. Run another one from the rear and bend it till you like the fit and use the drawtites to connect the line to the frame ( make sure to dump the oil where it dont get on your tire). I laced mine under the brake line to keep it from moving or rattling. Trim the excess off the drawtights and no more oil in your filter... Thumbnail Image
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I cut the rear line off flush where the muffler mount ends because I installed hooker headers last week. I added a short piece of gasline cut on a slant to keep the oilfoam away from my tires. Here is a pic. You cant really see the exit you have to bend down to see it. Thumbnail Image
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< Message edited by x2lee -- 2/11/2008 4:19:24 PM >
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Thomas Its all fun and games until the flying monkeys attack...
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 3:38:41 PM
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JRK5892
 Posts: 3321
Joined: 3/8/2007 Status: offline
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mud... how about that breather mod??? when you re ran your breather lines?????
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Joe Knapp Chicago, IL "PUT YOUR KNUCKLES TO THE WIND"
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 4:31:49 PM
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74c10sb
Posts: 28
Joined: 12/31/2006 Status: offline
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this is a simple mod for any one running an a/n big sucker or hd stage 1 air filter if you are running one of these filter kits then you probly already noticed that the front of the filter seems to be the only part that gets dirty and the rest stays that nice redish color what i did was take a piece of paper cut to the inside of the filter to get the holes in the right place i rotated the filter about 180 and drilled new 1/4" holes now this gives you a nice clean surface for the incoming air just make sure that you remove any metal shavings from the filter Thumbnail Image
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< Message edited by 74c10sb -- 12/6/2007 7:04:29 AM >
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 4:56:30 PM
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TARTAN2
Posts: 338
Joined: 10/17/2007 Status: offline
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Great thread Mud as usual Heres one for blacked out top fork tubes Get a length of 53mm plastic gutter tube from hardware store $4 - $6 , measure length from bottom of top yoke to top of bottom yoke , cut to size , cut down the back , wrap masking tape twice around tubes to stop rubbing , add a small spot of silicon onto the masking tape to stop cover from spinning , spread open the pipe , place over the fork tube and it will snap back into shape ..... a little polish and bob's your uncle ! Time 30 minutes ...cost pennies !!!!!
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''Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly''
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 7:23:18 PM
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HOGRIDA_06
 Posts: 1515
Joined: 3/8/2006 Status: offline
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Varmint, Nice post, thats how I lifted my tank. Only difference is instead of the piece of tubing I used two short bolts. Also used Stainless instead of aluminum.
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Live Fast, Die Fun HoGRiDA '06 FXDBI
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 7:36:03 PM
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HOGRIDA_06
 Posts: 1515
Joined: 3/8/2006 Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: HOGRIDA_06 Front turn signal relocation.............. 1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2".............. Drill hole in one end big enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt............... Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt).................. Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long................. Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer. Took some pics. tonight. The thread of the bolt is 5/16-24, 2.5" long should be plenty long enough. The tubing spacer needs to be about a .5" shorter than the bolt. I run cheap aftermarket LED's but heres a crappy pic. of this set up on my bike.
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Live Fast, Die Fun HoGRiDA '06 FXDBI
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 8:28:45 PM
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caveman76
Posts: 29
Joined: 8/20/2007 From: springfield missouri Status: offline
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by the way hog rida I got that plate bracket and installed it. looks as good as i thought it would. simplicity is a good style imoa. thanks for the quaility i was also impressed w/the price.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:49:59 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Nice job mat. Keep us updated, interesting. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: matkiwi £2 ($5) seat mod ... Took out the centre and fitted memory foam and trimmed the sides. Its a very easy job to do and the seat is far more comfortable. Just used an old knife and heated it in a flame to cut smoothly and evostick glue to put it all back together. A few trys to get it perfect so don't reglue the cover till you are happy ... duck tape is your friend. Under the top piece of foam are several layers to get the right depth and some back support. Leave the original firmer foam on the sides to balance the seat. I'm very happy with it but you really need lumbar support for a longer trip, I do this by strapping a bag on my luggage rack ... 500mile days are no problem. Longer reach for my legs on the highway pegs plus they don't feel so 'spread' anymore after a ride. I'm now in the process of making a new seat as a winter project but I'm struggling to get it even close to being as comfortable as this seat ! Mat
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:50:17 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: XKROME as far as the length i didn't measure but it took a couple of try's on the first one because i came up short. it takes more than you would think to do a double layer, i think about 6 feet is long enough. i went to my local Tandy Leather and they had a tool that cut them out of a single 2 foot square piece of leather and charged me 5$ Thanx for the info XK. I really like this one. Need to find time to execute this on the MudGlide. The rear turn signal relocate is a good one as well. mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:50:37 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: SPECIAL ED Alright here's my fender chop job in a nut shell Good job ED. Appreciate the pix. Simple operation. Easy cabin fever fix for many. mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:50:55 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Way to tie up the loose ends Chip. I know you got a few more up your sleeve. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: Chipstah Awesome ideas guys - thanks for the thread topic mud. Here's a few obvious (but not mentioned yet) el cheapo mods: remove reflectors (fishing line & Goo-Gone do a good job). FREE if ya fish and clean much, otherwise under $10. remove tank badge/emblem if the stick-on type. FREE (use supplies from above!) remove fender !!!!!! FREE or make money by selling your fender! slide fork up into trees to lower front. FREE stainless headlight visor. FREE if ya make it or under $10 at swap meet. remove battery cover band, fill holes with round black auto interior trim push on covers. Under $3
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:51:12 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Thank you Zim. a MUSTHAVE add. Still waiting for *someone* *doug* to detail the steps for the lighter. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: Zimbob For all us "outlawed" smokers. Tank pocket. Get a cigg. holder; approx $6. Remove the belt loop; free, cut a slit on the bottom between the leather, ( cut the stitching ) take a piece of .062" alu. about 3/4" longer than the pouch, same width as the inside and drill a clearence hole for the screw in the bottom of the dash. slightly bend the alum. 3/4" from the end with the hole. this will help to hold it down, slide it into the slot in the pouch. Now just screw it down on the dash. If you have a tank bra, you won't see the mount. cost is less than $8. H.D wants $80 for the same thing and it won't hold a lighter either, this one will.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:51:37 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Good one Varmint. Very basic, good starter project. Very few tools required. A cabin fever special. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: Varmint Tank Mod. Pictures aint that clear. Lotsa dust. And my lines in the backround look blue??? Frikin nikkon. One pic thats not seen is the routing I did to the modded plate to accomodate for clearance. The battery on my camera died, and had to finish 'for the old lady threw a tantrum. (She's got me decorating for XMAS) Real cheap mod. Raised the tank up 1 3/4". Took 2 hrs. Materials: One piece aluminum flat stock 1" x 3/16" Cost: $.0 (had it laying around in my shop) One piece 1/2" Aluminun tube stock. Cost: $4.00 (lowes) One 5/16" x 3 1/2" cap screw. Cost: .69c Two 5/16" acorn nuts. Cost: $1.10 One can of spray paint. Cost $.0 (had it in my shop. Wish it was flat, not gloss) Problems/complications...........F UCKIN' VENT HOSE, Wife. Other than that, real smooth Mod.
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 10:52:10 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Hey lee - why dont you move the pix over here?? Nice job you did on it. Doesn't seem it went over all that well at the Chat section of this forum. You're welcome over here. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: x2lee Under 10 bucks mod, no more oil on your jeans or side of bike. http://www.hdforums.com/m_2495121/tm.htm
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 10:52:48 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Good thinkin c10. Keep em comin. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: 74c10sb this is a simple mod for any one running an a/n big sucker or hd stage 1 air filter if you are running one of these filter kits then you probly already noticed that the front of the filter seems to be the only part that gets dirty and the rest stays that nice redish color what i did was take a piece of paper cut to the inside of the filter to get the holes in the right place i rotated the filter about 180 and drilled new 1/4" holes now this gives you a nice clean surface for the incoming air just make sure that you remove any metal shavings frome the filter Thumbnail Image
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RE: divert your crankcase oil with a forcewinder - 12/5/2007 10:53:10 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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I have been wondering how you did that since I first saw your pix. Quick thinkin TARTAN. Outta the box. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: TARTAN2 Great thread Mud as usual Heres one for blacked out top fork tubes Get a length of 53mm plastic gutter tube from hardware store $4 - $6 , measure length from bottom of top yoke to top of bottom yoke , cut to size , cut down the back , wrap masking tape twice around tubes to stop rubbing , add a small spot of silicon onto the masking tape to stop cover from spinning , spread open the pipe , place over the fork tube and it will snap back into shape ..... a little polish and bob's your uncle ! Time 30 minutes ...cost pennies !!!!!
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/5/2007 10:53:38 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4448
Joined: 5/30/2006 From: the 50s & the 60s Status: offline
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Thanx RIDA. The very basics get the job done every time. mud quote:
ORIGINAL: HOGRIDA_06 Front turn signal relocation.............. 1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2".............. Drill hole in one end big enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt............... Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt).................. Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long................. Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer. Took some pics. tonight. The thread of the bolt is 5/16-24, 2.5" long should be plenty long enough. The tubing spacer needs to be about a .5" shorter than the bolt. I run cheap aftermarket LED's but heres a crappy pic. of this set up on my bike.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 6:50:53 AM
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Smiley51
Posts: 349
Joined: 7/1/2007 Status: offline
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Theeboy On the rear turn signal mod you didn't use any kind of a spacer for the signals. You just used shorter bolts? And are those the OEM signals with the smoked lens? Man I am pumped about this thread there are some cool and cheap mods. This is like Christmas presents. Smiley
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 11:06:40 AM
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TheeBoy
Posts: 303
Joined: 2/13/2007 Status: offline
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Yup, basically, I weny under the rear fender, loosenedthe bolt that attaches the light to the fender mount and cut the stock turn signal off. removed the stock count that causes the light to sticik out about 3", removed the appropriate amount of wiring from the signal, soldered and electrial taped back together and went to ace hardware aobut 3 times to find a bolt the proper length I remember it being about 1" or even 3/4". bolted the rear signal straight to the fender. make sure to tighten them down real good and be aware they still may move if you torque them by had but other than me f---ing with it and making sure they are still tight they haven't moved on their own in over 1500 miles I actually have the kuryakyn panacea break light and turn signal, that's way my signals are smoked
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 11:08:18 AM
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TheeBoy
Posts: 303
Joined: 2/13/2007 Status: offline
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I mean *removed the stock mount that causes the ....* should read my sh!t over before I post it
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/6/2007 1:02:20 PM
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tree88
Posts: 183
Joined: 5/27/2007 From: killeen texas Status: offline
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Another air cleaner "mod"- after pricing a replacement element for my bike, i decided that it was too d@mn expensive, so i stopped by the local auto parts store (twilight zone in this case), and picked up an edelbrock pro-flo air cleaner assembly meant for a 4bbl holley. upon returning home i removed the factory air filter and cut the top off of it (the mounting flange) and discarded the rest. I had to open the neck on the new filter up from 5 1/8" to 6 1/4" to get it to fit over the backing plate for the carb (not that hard, just used pliers, hammer, dolley and patience). ran the stock air filter cover screw through the top plate backwards (threads pointing out) and put a nut, as well as some loctite, on the backside to prevent it coming out. re-mounted the top plate and then secured the base for the new air filter to it. then i snapped on the top part of the pro-flo. The proflo is designed to be run dry or with a slight bit of oil in the foam element... don't worry about oiling it, the bike will do it for you. It flows 1000cfm and only needs to washed with soap and water every 2000miles. total cost 29.75 (24.95 for the pro-flo, 1.97 for loc-tite, and 1.35 for the nut... plus tax.) btw- i sealed the air filter base to the backing plate with some black rtv (not included in price total) Thumbnail Image
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Believe nothing you hear, half of what you see, and pretty much everything thats on the police report.
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