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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/23/2008 3:01:10 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus


lonewaite,
That green "AC Delco" tool is a small screwdriver.


The kind that every guy who's ever worked on computer equipment



seems to collect by the dozen.
Know I have a couple of dozen laying around.
They are advertizing givaways.

********************
Frank



Frank, most all of mine have a magnet on one end.

I'm guessing that would probably be a no go for the PC techs.

mud

< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 3/30/2008 7:23:02 AM >


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Post #: 761
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/23/2008 5:01:12 PM   
Citoriplus



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quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
lonewaite,
That green "AC Delco" tool is a small screwdriver.
The kind that every guy who's ever worked on computer equipment seems to collect by the dozen.
Know I have a couple of dozen laying around.
They are advertizing givaways.

********************
Frank


Frank, most all of mine have a magnet on one end.
I'm guessing that would probably be a no go for the PC techs.

mud

I have been in the business for over 30 years now, and have collectd a bunch over the years. Most have a phillips at that end, but by no means are they all that way and there really isn't any need to worry about a magnet. Years ago when floppy disks really were floppy they 'could' be dangerous to the stored info on one. But I don't think in the 30 odd years I have been working in the field that I have ever seen a case where a magnet that small did any kind of harm unless they were deliberatly applied to the disk media.
On the other hand the magnets can and have been VERY handy getting very tiny screws out of small spaces when they have been accidentally dropped. Even tiny screws can cause all kinds of ugly things to happen if they fall onto printed circuit boards with the power on.
I even have a couple that are labeled Castle that have schrader valve ends so you can use the back end to remove the valve from tires or fuel rails.

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Post #: 762
RED oil filter - Freebee - 3/24/2008 6:08:47 AM   
Bobber Rider


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well, this one doesn't really involve any innovative manufacturing,
but for a small effort and no $$$ it upgrades the bikes looks.

take one new oil filter of your choice
(I used HD 5 micron black, less then 10$, but you had to spend that anyway)
carefully cover the open (bottom) end with masking tape, making sure no paint or particles will get inside the filter body
remove the new rubber gasket and insert with a used one (if you're like me, never-throw-away-anything-type-of-guy, you should have a couple laying around from your previous oil changes) as it will get paint on it
scuff the original black paint lightly with some 600 grit
spray with your choice of paint
let cure (preferably think ahead and paint the filter months before you will actually use it, so the paint has time to harden)
don't forget to remove the masking tape from the bottom side and reinstall the new gasket

 


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Post #: 763
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/24/2008 7:54:09 AM   
stell55chevy


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Lonewatie, i just copied your name from profile and pasted it. does it automatically.

thanks for the nag input by the way.

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Post #: 764
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/24/2008 7:54:46 AM   
stell55chevy


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meant Bag by the way haha! typo

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/25/2008 9:50:40 AM   
mudpuddle


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Front end assembly flops around when up on the lift - right??

Some of the time this is not an issue.
Many times though I do not want things moving around.

So, when needed, I strap the forks.



I use 2 of the two footers looped together behind the neck.

This allows adjustment independently left or right,
for ease of centering, or whatever you want.

If your dealer likes you, they will give you as many
of these little ratchet straps as you want.

Every new machine they receive uses several of these
to secure the machine inside the crate when shipped.

mud



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Post #: 766
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/26/2008 6:18:44 AM   
JRK5892



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MUD THAT FRONT FENDER IS SICK!!! man that is exactly what i have been looking for... very sharp!

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Post #: 767
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/26/2008 2:52:20 PM   
Punty



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Indeed Mud,

+1

that fender looks Great. 

Was it a $50 or less mod?

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Post #: 768
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/26/2008 7:27:02 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: JRK5892

MUD THAT FRONT FENDER IS SICK!!!
man that is exactly what i have been looking for...
very sharp!



Jrk, build one it ain't that bigga deal.

I'm gonna put a step by step soon.

mud

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Post #: 769
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/26/2008 7:27:26 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Punty

Indeed Mud,

+1

that fender looks Great. 




Was it a $50 or less mod?


Punty, it's really under five bux.

First picture shows stock compared to now.

mud.......








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Post #: 770
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/26/2008 10:07:01 PM   
RudeDog


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You gotta be shittin me! That is a super simple mod!!

Mud YOU ARE THE MAN! Good thinkin'

BTW, off topic but I had to mention, I just got done watching "The Big Lebowski" and after a hard day of Dyna mods it is defitinely worth checking out.


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/27/2008 11:13:07 PM   
JRK5892



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Mud I AM IN! you give me a step by step... I will build it! now i am pumped! in the past i have taped off and but TONS of front fenders to shorten them up but they where always chrome... i am intrested in this one... i really dig it!

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Post #: 772
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/29/2008 8:34:15 AM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: JRK5892

Mud I AM IN! you give me a step by step... I will build it!
now i am pumped! in the past i have taped off and but TONS of front fenders
to shorten them up but they where always chrome...

i am intrested in this one... i really dig it!



Here ya go JRK.

First, I drilled the four rivits out
and moved the fender back about three and a half inches on the bracket.



Welded the fender to the bracket and welded the original rivit holes closed,
and added a radiused piece at the bracket/fender intersection.

Half inch round stock welded on as a center rib.

Also shown is a duckbill at the lower end.



The rib is welded about every inch and a half on each side,
welds on the other side are in between, splitting the difference.

Below is also shown the holding fixture I made for this project.



I road tested this for 5-6 months last year,
suspecting there would be a problem with fracturing.

Yep, fracturing on both sides where the red line is in the image above.

So I welded the cracks, and added an inner rib, shown below.



I don't like the duckbill.



Pain in the ass, but I removed it





Now this end of the rib is terminated with about a half an erection.

The filler I like for this sort of operation is called All Metal, an Aluminized resin.
It gets so hard a cat can't scratch it, just like last night.

Any shaping, tooling, sanding, is best done SOON after the initial set.



I diminished the leading end of the rib to disappear into a thin point. 



I still want to reposition the fender a bit closer to the tire.
I'll get to that soon, I guess.........






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Post #: 773
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/29/2008 5:26:38 PM   
JRK5892



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THANKS BUD! I am on it! i will start in about a week! thanks! not sure i will do the rib down the middle but i love everything else about it! thanks mud!

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Post #: 774
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 6:42:32 AM   
WyndellF

 

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+1

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Post #: 775
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 9:16:26 AM   
matkiwi


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quote:

ORIGINAL: JRK5892

THANKS BUD! I am on it! i will start in about a week! thanks! not sure i will do the rib down the middle but i love everything else about it! thanks mud!


Joe ... if you are making it I'm expecting a row of lights down the middle at least !

seriously ... How about an LED mod from you for a front LED marker light to go on the front ... the bagger lights look out of scale on a Dyna but an extra centre light would be a useful safety aid ...

Mat


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Post #: 776
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 1:14:27 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: WyndellF




+1



Wendell, I guess you're sayin +1 on the front fender.

Below is a click variation.

mud................



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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 2:35:23 PM   
JRK5892



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hey bud i have done a version already with those LEDS on front... but i made them turn sigs..


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Joe Knapp

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 4:22:43 PM   
0ut1aw


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Dang Mud I wish I lived next door to you....

Heres a stupid little trick or two worth its time to do

On long rides I find a 12volt power supply really handy.  You can buy one at checkers for about 10 bucks, it even has a cap on it.  Find a place to zip tie it off wire it into the battery and you've got 12v power everywhere you ride.  Mine is under my seat, you don't even see it.



On the other side of my seat I took a garage door opener, wrapper it in plastic and zip tied it up, also can't hardly see it.  No cost at all.




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Attachment (2)

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 4:24:26 PM   
XKROME


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I'm a short chit and find it hard to keep my feet on the forward pegs at high speed and i always feel like my feet are slowly sliding off the pegs Even at low speed. another member is sending me a how to for making new brackets but for now i tried this.
found some 1/8'' thick leather and cut a small wedge to work up into bottom gap between peg and mount using a small screw driver.


lifted the outside of the peg just a little


i haven't ridden it yet (nasty a$$ weather) but just  sitting on it feels much better. if it cures the problem i'll probably just leave it instead of building new brackets.

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Will be a small Bobber

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/30/2008 7:41:26 PM   
Citoriplus



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xxchrome,
If you like it that way you can make a more permenent 'fix' by getting a piece of metal and filing it to fit then use a little JB Weld (very little) to hold it in place. The leather will eventually get pounded down or fall out where the metal eill keep its size and the glue will keep it in place.
I suggest roughing up the surface's to be glued and use a piece of aluminum or brass for the spacer. They are easy materials to work with and should last a long time. But worse comes to worse you should be able to knock them out later with a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer if necessary.

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Post #: 781
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 2:41:15 PM   
RazorFXDB

 

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I gotta learn how to weld ....

Just as soon as I finish painting the kitchen.

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 5:06:15 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: 0ut1aw

Dang Mud I wish I lived next door to you....

Heres a stupid little trick or two worth its time to do


On long rides I find a 12volt power supply really handy. 

***********************

On the other side of my seat I took a garage door opener,
wrapper it in plastic and zip tied it up, also can't hardly see it. 
No cost at all.





Way to go outlaw. hidden comfort components.

Is the door opener button on the unit, or remotely mounted??

The house next door to me - on both sides - are for sale.
I make a lotta noise.

mud

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Post #: 783
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 5:06:39 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: XKROME

I'm a short chit and find it hard to keep my feet on the forward pegs at high speed
and i always feel like my feet are slowly sliding off the pegs Even at low speed.
another member is sending me a how to for making new brackets but for now i tried this.
found some 1/8'' thick leather and cut a small wedge to work up into bottom gap
between peg and mount using a small screw driver.







Good thinking Jay. Like your use of leather.
That cocked up peg should do the trick.
Keep us posted.

I just got back from Tandy's, picked up some leather,
and some lacing so I can start getting my seat finished.

mud

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Post #: 784
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 5:07:06 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: RazorFXDB


I gotta learn how to weld ....



Just as soon as I finish painting the kitchen.



Ray, get a bigger brush.

mud

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 6:10:43 PM   
XKROME


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

xxchrome,
If you like it that way you can make a more permenent 'fix' by getting a piece of metal and filing it to fit then use a little JB Weld (very little) to hold it in place. The leather will eventually get pounded down or fall out where the metal eill keep its size and the glue will keep it in place.
I suggest roughing up the surface's to be glued and use a piece of aluminum or brass for the spacer. They are easy materials to work with and should last a long time. But worse comes to worse you should be able to knock them out later with a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer if necessary.

good idea, i took a chance on the weather today  and rode to work (38* this mornin brrr) the pegs feel much better. think I'll have to make it more permanent and i think i know just the piece of aluminum to do it with.

_____________________________

~Jay

''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''

Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber

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Post #: 786
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 7:47:32 PM   
RudeDog


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quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

I just got back from Tandy's, picked up some leather,
and some lacing so I can start getting my seat finished.

mud


Did you get the link to the thread requesting help with your seat? Are you going to DIY? That may be cheaper than $50.00! NEW POST MUD!


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Post #: 787
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 3/31/2008 7:47:38 PM   
Citoriplus



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quote:

ORIGINAL: XKROME

quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

xxchrome,
If you like it that way you can make a more permanent 'fix' by getting a piece of metal and filing it to fit then use a little JB Weld (very little) to hold it in place. The leather will eventually get pounded down or fall out where the metal will keep its size and the glue will keep it in place.
I suggest roughing up the surface's to be glued and use a piece of aluminum or brass for the spacer. They are easy materials to work with and should last a long time. But worse comes to worse you should be able to knock them out later with a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer if necessary.

good idea, i took a chance on the weather today  and rode to work (38* this mornin brrr) the pegs feel much better. think I'll have to make it more permanent and i think i know just the piece of aluminum to do it with.

I like the idea because I'm a short chit as well, one of the primary reasons I got a Softail Custom instead of a Wideglide. For short trips the stockers are fine, but your right longer or higher speed rides do tend to have my feet looking for some support.
I was thinking of drilling and tapping the peg or its mounting to put a set screw in it for an adjustable stop. But I think your idea may be better, it looks much more solid.
When you get the instructions for the new mounting post it up here or send me a copy. I'd like to see if its adaptable to a Softail.

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U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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Post #: 788
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 4/3/2008 7:21:39 PM   
0ut1aw


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mudpuddle
Date 3/31/2008 6:06:15 PM



quote:

ORIGINAL: 0ut1aw

Dang Mud I wish I lived next door to you....

Heres a stupid little trick or two worth its time to do


On long rides I find a 12volt power supply really handy. 

***********************

On the other side of my seat I took a garage door opener,
wrapper it in plastic and zip tied it up, also can't hardly see it. 
No cost at all.





Way to go outlaw. hidden comfort components.

Is the door opener button on the unit, or remotely mounted??

The house next door to me - on both sides - are for sale.
I make a lotta noise.

mud

Door opener is still in tact and in the unit.  Wrapping in plastic came after riding in the rain.  Had to disassemble and clean and buy a new battery. 

I make plenty of noise too so my neighbors tend to move away fast.

T

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73 Sporty
02 Sporty
99 FXDL
Crashin Sucks (Especially High Sides)


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