RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:46:15 AM
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mudpuddle
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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Full Index is on Page 1 Posting #1 -
Page 01
front sig tuck. . . . . . . . . . . . mud post#1
http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2546488
quote:
ORIGINAL: TOMMAY
Here ya go,Mud.
http://www.hdforums.com/m_627446/tm.htm
Thanx Tom. That's a good one.
Still haven't found the time to shine mine up.
To my eye, I prefer polished aluminum over chrome.
mud
< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 3/18/2008 10:08:23 AM >
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:52:31 AM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Not sure if a Softail guy is allowed to post over here in Dyna country
******************************
Use some SS treaded rod, I used SS carrage bolts
and cut the threaded section to lengths needed.
Jam acorn nuts on the ends with some JB Weld so they don't come apart.
I would have used a stainless steel pin through the nut and rod
but couldn't find any,
and the JB seems to do the job well enough anyway.
And the finished product.
I think they look a lot better,
you can remove them a lot easier than the soft Torx headed bolts
and I don't have to worry about them rusting.
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 11:30:07 AM
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Far 3ast
Posts: 321
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Hey Ed, where did you find fork gaiters to fit your bike? I want a set for my FXDX, I'm afraid the Nightster ones will be too short, and dirt bike ones are waaay too long. How about helping a brother out 
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 12:15:20 PM
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Citoriplus
Posts: 5118
Joined: 9/21/2006
From: Rochester, NY
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
Thanks,
You don't "have" to use grade 5 or better stainless steel or bolts for it like I did. Common Home Depot or Lowes mild steel treaded rod works just as well for most things. Just don't use that kind of thing for any parts that usually call for a grade 5 or better fastener.
I use all stainless because I like the idea of using stainless steel to reduce or eliminate the problems associated with rusted in bolts later.
One thing to be aware of, at least with the fender strut bolts, is that the bolts are not of a uniform length. Something I didn't know when I was doing it so I made the mistake of making them all the same length.
OOPS!!
I think on the fender struts its some kind of clearance issue with the tire so its something that needs to be considered.
So make sure of your measurements before you start it'll save save you from some extra work.
_____________________________
07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 2:25:55 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
quote:
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
Thanks,
You don't "have" to use grade 5 or better stainless steel or bolts for it like I did. Common Home Depot or Lowes mild steel treaded rod works just as well for most things. Just don't use that kind of thing for any parts that usually call for a grade 5 or better fastener.
I use all stainless because I like the idea of using stainless steel to reduce or eliminate the problems associated with rusted in bolts later.
One thing to be aware of, at least with the fender strut bolts, is that the bolts are not of a uniform length. Something I didn't know when I was doing it so I made the mistake of making them all the same length.
OOPS!!
I think on the fender struts its some kind of clearance issue with the tire so its something that needs to be considered.
So make sure of your measurements before you start it'll save save you from some extra work.
Appreciate all the input.
Myownself, there will be no farm grade fasteners on my sickle.
Torque values are important as well.
Many do not realize those values are calculated for a reason.
For example, overtorqueing a fastener, you are stretching it.
Here's another under 50 project -
build a taillite can with attached license plate and inspection sticker.
Built this for the MudSickle earlier this year.
First couple pix are the can.
Just about ready to be welded shut.
I use the paper cocacola 12 pack cartons for cutting
out my patterns before sizing the sheet metal.
Next picture is underside showing shaped license plate insp stkr metal.
Heavier stock at the top of the picture welds into the fender at three points,
and is tapped to accept the 3 bolts that attaches the can
and license plate insp stkr platform.
Here next, a trial fit to fender before I folded the inspection stkr area down
to conform to tire radius.
This photo also shows some of the area where I welded the fender together.
I started with three softail fenders,
split one in half lengthwise,
widened to fit width of the 06 Dyna struts.
Used the other two for parts and pieces here and there.
You can also see the license plate lights receptacles.
Next, just about done with the can.
I did get a lecture from a cop after a pullover for a 95 in a 65 indiscretion.
He mentioned the lack of visibility of the tag expiration sticker
after listing 6 or 8 other infractions that he could write up.
He read me the riot act for about 10 minutes
then handed my paperwork back
and said I need to slow it down a little.
No tickets.
54 LEDs on the brake/tail,
6 on each turn sig.
Lites up real good.
Next picture - the MudSickle in service
for a 5/6 month road test.
At this time parts are all on the shelf
waiting patiently for me to find time
to squirt some color on em.
Duct tape seat, another cheap project.
< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 12/7/2007 2:31:22 PM >
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 2:28:04 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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Yeah troll, after radicalizing my motor, works good.
06 LowRider seat.
mud
quote:
ORIGINAL: shoptroll
quote:
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
quote:
ORIGINAL: shoptroll
The link under my sig pic will take you to the gallery of all the stuff I've made
and everything was made for next to nothing
and made with basic hand tools and power equipment.
Thanx for pointing that link out troll.
I know for a fact that you do great work,
as I have one of your tank lifts on the MudGlide
(pictured below in my sig
click the blowup for a closer view)
On the MudSickle I raised the tank by
cutting off the flange and rewelding it
for a 2 1/4" lift.
The trolllift, I requested 1 1/4"
and that's exactly what was delivered.
mud
Thanks for the kind words! What kind of seat is on your bike? That bad-boy sure is dished out! Don't think you'll be slidin' off the back anytime soon! 
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 2:34:47 PM
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Dawg Rider
Posts: 577
Joined: 7/19/2007
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Mainly for Super Glides- you can take off and spray the trim down the tank silver to match the engine (or any other color, I guess). Something a little different than the usual black or chrome. I don't have pix during the job, but you can see the results in this shot.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Morebarnsbikes015.jpg
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 3:01:15 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Dawg Rider
Mainly for Super Glides-
you can take off and spray the trim down the tank silver to match the engine
(or any other color, I guess).
Something a little different than the usual black or chrome.
I don't have pix during the job, but you can see the results in this shot.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb259/jfeason/Morebarnsbikes015.jpg
That is a real nice touch Dawg.
The contrast is very nice.
Did you smooth off the wrinkles,
or was it wrinkled to start??
mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 4:23:01 PM
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SPECIAL ED
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1970 Triumph or BSA they're 2" by 6 3/4", 2" is just a tiny bit bigger than 49mm. I think with the FXDX youre going to need something a little closer to 39mm?
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 7:05:17 PM
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Citoriplus
Posts: 5118
Joined: 9/21/2006
From: Rochester, NY
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quote:
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Here's another under 50 project -
build a taillite can with attached license plate and inspection sticker.
Built this for the MudSickle earlier this year.
Damn Mud, you did some really nice looking work. Wish I had seen that before I spent a bunch on the Tri-Bar LED tailight HD sells. I might have tried doing the same thing to my Softail Customs fender.
Oh well it doesn't look too bad the way it is and the light is nice and bright.
But having the turn signals "built in" like you did would be a nice way to get rid of the stock signals.
_____________________________
07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 8:21:59 PM
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SPECIAL ED
Posts: 1635
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Templeton California
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quote:
At this time parts are all on the shelf
waiting patiently for me to find time
to squirt some color on em.
You still gonna go with black? The more I see your bike with the raw metal tins the more I'm thinking silver would look sweet.Maybe some old school "70s" metal flake?.
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06 STREET BOB, WORLDS MOST EXPENSIVE RAT BIKE
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 8:57:34 PM
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XKROME
Posts: 596
Joined: 7/6/2007
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i think i'm going to do this on the forks between the triple trees after i put the gators on also. get rid of a little more shiny just blackened my Vance n Hines strait shots with BBQ paint and they took bad a$$, the OL sez "it looks like she's been juicing and put on 50 lbs o muscle," i'll get some pix tomorrow.
has any one ever dulled up their aluminum? I kinda like the brushed look and would be interested in a "how to"
_____________________________
~Jay
''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''
Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:07:33 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Damn Mud, you did some really nice looking work.
Wish I had seen that before I spent a bunch on the Tri-Bar LED tailight HD sells.
I might have tried doing the same thing to my Softail Customs fender.
*************************************
Thanks for the compliment Citori.
You can still pull it off.
winters long up there in Rochester????
Sell the Tri-Bar when you're done.
Gotta hang out over here more often, maybe??
We welcome all here.
mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:08:03 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: SPECIAL ED
quote:
At this time parts are all on the shelf
waiting patiently for me to find time
to squirt some color on em.
You still gonna go with black?
The more I see your bike with the raw metal tins
the more I'm thinking silver would look sweet.
Maybe some old school "70s" metal flake?.
ED, any time I said the tins were goin arrest me black,
it was in jest.
I have seriously stated that I am leaning hard to the 07 Silver Pewter
with some conservative Old School Striping.
Striping in vivid carnival colors - not overstated though.
The old striper I know down here
has been laying pigment down for about 50 years.
Now that I think about it, I better give him a call soon.
mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:12:27 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: XKROME
i think i'm going to do this on the forks between the triple trees after i put the gators on also.
get rid of a little more shiny
just blackened my Vance n Hines strait shots with BBQ paint
and they took bad a$$,
the OL sez "it looks like she's been juicing and put on 50 lbs o muscle,"
i'll get some pix tomorrow.
has any one ever dulled up their aluminum?
I kinda like the brushed look and would be interested in a "how to"
XK, I like that idea for the leather strap wrapped forks.
Give it a shot and let's have a look.
mud
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:30:25 PM
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dklozik
Posts: 260
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You can dull up aluminum with some scotch brite pads. I used to get mine from an automotive paint supply place.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 9:43:31 PM
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XKROME
Posts: 596
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got some black mini apes today, they were a little over the limmit at $59
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~Jay
''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''
Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/7/2007 10:48:35 PM
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Citoriplus
Posts: 5118
Joined: 9/21/2006
From: Rochester, NY
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quote:
ORIGINAL: dklozik
You can dull up aluminum with some scotch brite pads. I used to get mine from an automotive paint supply place.
I used the same stuff on a plate I made to back up my license plate and it works real nice.
One thing you want to remember is to rub it in one continuous direction.
If you stop and reverse direction it doesn't look as nice when your finished.
For larger flat surfaces try getting a sanding disk for a drill and cut a pad to fit it.
Run it a low speed without too much pressure while you put a little soap and water on it and it will work well.
The soap and water combination works as a nice cutting oil.
Its a bit messy, but it works really nice for flushing the crud off, and it lets you see what your doing while your working.
_____________________________
07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 4:41:07 AM
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XKROME
Posts: 596
Joined: 7/6/2007
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
quote:
ORIGINAL: dklozik
You can dull up aluminum with some scotch brite pads. I used to get mine from an automotive paint supply place.
I used the same stuff on a plate I made to back up my license plate and it works real nice.
One thing you want to remember is to rub it in one continuous direction.
If you stop and reverse direction it doesn't look as nice when your finished.
For larger flat surfaces try getting a sanding disk for a drill and cut a pad to fit it.
Run it a low speed without too much pressure while you put a little soap and water on it and it will work well.
The soap and water combination works as a nice cutting oil.
Its a bit messy, but it works really nice for flushing the crud off, and it lets you see what your doing while your working.
thanx guys, think I'm gona try that on my fork lowers, triple trees and the little "hat" thing on top of the head light( any one know what that's called?)
I'll see how it looks then decide weather to powder coat or not.
_____________________________
~Jay
''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''
Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 8:58:22 AM
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Citoriplus
Posts: 5118
Joined: 9/21/2006
From: Rochester, NY
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You can also use a sponge, some water and a bit of Go-Jo hand cleaner. Or another brand of liquid soap that has grit in it (Lava?). I used it to strip the paint off an old tank and it left a really smooth brushed finish.
Just be sure to use some kind of protection on steel or any other iron like metal afterwards or it will start rusting in no time at all. If you like the look of bare aluminum, a light coating with a good brand of clear coat made for aluminum will usually do the trick. Just be sure its completely oil, water, and dust free first.
_____________________________
07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 9:42:29 AM
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SPECIAL ED
Posts: 1635
Joined: 6/13/2006
From: Templeton California
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quote:
ED, any time I said the tins were goin arrest me black,
it was in jest.
That's cool, now I remember you mentioned you like that "silver denim" I think that'll look real nice.I actually like the raw metal and think it would look cool polished out but I realize that's totally impractical I've seen a couple or three polished steel tanks rusting away.
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06 STREET BOB, WORLDS MOST EXPENSIVE RAT BIKE
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 1:25:29 PM
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mudpuddle
Posts: 4479
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From: the 50s & the 60s
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quote:
ORIGINAL: SPECIAL ED
quote:
ED, any time I said the tins were goin arrest me black,
it was in jest.
That's cool, now I remember you mentioned you like that "silver denim"
I think that'll look real nice.
I actually like the raw metal and think it would look cool polished out
but I realize that's totally impractical
I've seen a couple or three polished steel tanks rusting away.
Yeah I like that color ED.
Vivid Black would be really good,
but then I'd have to get rid of every single blemish.
And I ain't goin that far with it.
I would go with the oxidized patina quick.
If it was all metal, but there is some filler.
For now they're oxidizing and they may go
back on for another road test
before I find the time to squirt em.
Here's one for way under fifty.
I guess it was under fifteen.
Pretty self explanatory,
I bought a length of armored icemaker?? line.
It has a neoprene core liner.
mud
STOCK:
SOMETHIN HAPPENED:
WON"T HAPPEN AGAIN:
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 1:32:57 PM
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abcd9906
Posts: 224
Joined: 6/24/2007
From: Hutchinson, Kansas
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Good idea mud ... For that very same problem I went down to radio shack and got some flat speaker wire and used it. It was like a 9 dollar roll of flat wire and it worked perfect. I urethaned or siliconed the wire to underneath the fender.
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 2:12:35 PM
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Chipstah
Multiple Time Contributor
Posts: 1812
Joined: 12/15/2006
From: The Woods of NH
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quote:
ORIGINAL: XKROME
.... and the little "hat" thing on top of the head light( any one know what that's called?)
You mean a 'visor' like this n stainless (another cheap mod, usually find them at swap meets for under $5, or get automotive ones 2 for around $10 for all standard size headlights):
Also can get ones for tail lights ($1.99 from J&P):
Chip
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'07 Bobstah
Lowered w/Progressives
V&H SS wrapped
Tank Lift
Mustang Vintage Solo
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It's Not How Fast You Go, It's How You Go Fast!
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/8/2007 7:14:22 PM
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XKROME
Posts: 596
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Chipstah
quote:
ORIGINAL: XKROME
.... and the little "hat" thing on top of the head light( any one know what that's called?)
You mean a 'visor' like this n stainless (another cheap mod, usually find them at swap meets for under $5, or get automotive ones 2 for around $10 for all standard size headlights):
Chip
no, what I'm talking about covers the whole bucket. i had one on my sporty too but i think they discontinued it after 05.
i was also thinking of removing it but i have a feeling it covers wires coming out of top of head light guess I'll find out when i take it off to dull it.
_____________________________
~Jay
''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''
Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/9/2007 7:20:28 AM
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Dawg Rider
Posts: 577
Joined: 7/19/2007
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That is a real nice touch Dawg.
The contrast is very nice.
Did you smooth off the wrinkles,
or was it wrinkled to start??
mud
Thanks, Mud. That piece was already smooth, so nothing was needed in my case. I think that silver kind of ties the tank in to the engine, but I guess that look would probably not fit a good many bikes.
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