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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/10/2007 10:44:21 PM   
Citoriplus



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quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
You are a brave man and a true survivor, I never got over those banana peels.
mud

Banana peels? Were those the same banana peels that were baked wrapped around Teaberry gum?

I know I lived through the 60's as a teenager, but a lot of my memories of the era are still a little fuzzy.

Frank


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/10/2007 10:52:44 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
You are a brave man and a true survivor, I never got over those banana peels.
mud

Banana peels? Were those the same banana peels that were baked wrapped around Teaberry gum?

I know I lived through the 60's as a teenager, but a lot of my memories of the era are still a little fuzzy.

Frank



Frank, I just looked at your profile.

I'm twelve daze older than you.

mud

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Post #: 122
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/10/2007 10:56:03 PM   
metal_mike


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quote:

ORIGINAL: XKROME

i think i'm going to do this on the forks between the triple trees after i put the gators on also. get rid of a little more shiny just blackened my Vance n Hines strait shots with BBQ paint and they took bad a$$, the OL sez "it looks like she's been juicing and put on 50 lbs o muscle," i'll get some pix tomorrow.


has any one ever dulled up their aluminum? I kinda like the brushed look and would be interested in a "how to"


 


the best way ive found is to use the green scotch-brite pads.. w/ wd-40.
be sure to go in one direction..and check your progress often...the wd-40 acts as a cutting oil so this will go quite quickly!


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Post #: 123
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/10/2007 11:27:21 PM   
Citoriplus



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quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Frank, I just looked at your profile.

I'm twelve daze older than you.

mud

With "DAZE" being the operative word.
And Happy Birthday, in advance, to both of us.




Bet you got ripped off with Birthday/Christmas presents when you were a kid too.

Frank


_____________________________

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U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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Post #: 124
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/10/2007 11:35:49 PM   
mudpuddle


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Here's one,
vent your crankcase into the atmosphere,
instead of runnin that muck back through the motor.



Below,
stock bolts, tap both (10-24??) then lock in set screw



Below,
set up fixture for drillpressing in proper location



Below,
drilled in this direction as well as opened up a little lengthwise



Below,
hose fittings
tapped for 1/8" pipe. the one on the left won't work



Below,
backside
catch can about 20 some odd dollars. hose and brass maybe 10 bux



Below,
DONE
one more view, probably about a half day rounding up parts and takin my time



mud

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Post #: 125
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/10/2007 11:38:36 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Frank, I just looked at your profile.

I'm twelve daze older than you.

mud

With "DAZE" being the operative word.
And Happy Birthday, in advance, to both of us.




Bet you got ripped off with Birthday/Christmas presents when you were a kid too.

Frank




Happy Birthday to us.

And hopefully many more birthdaze.

I don't know, gotta be careful what I wish for.

I take it back.

mud

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Post #: 126
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/11/2007 12:35:16 AM   
Hops



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What a great thread. Sorry I have nothing to contribute. Mainly posting so I can find this later.

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/11/2007 8:52:24 AM   
JRK5892



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thanks mud just added that to my to do list! i have been dien to see how you did that!

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Post #: 128
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/11/2007 10:18:32 AM   
Jetpat

 

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Maybe a bit noobish to some of you vets out there, but for a new guy like me I would add to check out the forum classifieds...especially the Want to Buy.  I put a WTB for a wrinkle black derby cover & horn cover last week.  Got a reply and picked up both pieces for $35!!  Install is a breeze (gotta buy some thread lock is all) and beats buying the HD after market stuff that has the lines on 'em.  I think this is essential stuff for the denim black Street Bob.  Next up, wrinkle black belt guard.  Slowly but surely.

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Post #: 129
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/11/2007 11:28:35 AM   
Citoriplus



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Mud,

Where did you get the "catch can" for that?
BTW its a neat trick, but why not use a breather filter like this one?

http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=524A2B92-12EE-496C-8074-2FE347BB72AF&search=breather+filter&store=Harley&page=4

I know that one is over the $50 limit, but it just an example.
I'm sure there are cheaper versions around.
Besides I can't stomach the idea of paying over $100 for rinky dink filter.

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FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

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Post #: 130
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/11/2007 8:17:34 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

Mud,

Where did you get the "catch can" for that?

BTW its a neat trick, but why not use a breather filter like this one?

***********************************************



Got it at the link below.

Great service, extra quick shipping.

High quality, Made in America.

catch can

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/partscarburetion.shtml

66-2110-6731 - $25.95

mud

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 1:49:55 PM   
JRK5892



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WRAPPING PIPES
- order wrap online, wet the wrap... wrap it around (i like to do my wrap with about half overlap as i go around) I would strongly recomend a GOOD quality wrap (mine turned white) and then shoot them black with some high temp heat paint
here are some pics of the process


Thumbnail Image



Thumbnail Image



Thumbnail Image



Thumbnail Image


Attachment (4)

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Joe Knapp

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Post #: 132
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 4:22:24 PM   
x2lee



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This is where all the do it yourselfers are so I would like a squeeze your brains on an idea. I saw a pic in the sporty section of an
airfilter that I liked a lot. I am running a forcewinder and the thing I like abvout this on is the spike cooming out of the front of the cone. I want to add a spike like that one to the front of my filter. I am sure theres not a spike out there with a self tapping screw in it and I dont think the k&n filter comes apart so I am just looking for some suggestions on a easy way to accomplish this... Thanks!

BTW I just lifted this shot off someones post so, Nice bike, hope you dont mind...



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Its all fun and games until the flying monkeys attack...

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Post #: 133
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 5:10:18 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: x2lee

********************************

the thing I like abvout this on is the spike cooming out of the front of the cone.

I want to add a spike like that one to the front of my filter.

I am sure theres not a spike out there with a self tapping screw in it

and I dont think the k&n filter comes apart so


I am just looking for some suggestions on a easy way to accomplish this... Thanks!

********************************


Thomas, you should be able to get to the backside
when the filter is removed from your sickle.

Or, if I'm wrong about that,
mount a spear on a chrome disc
then the disc mounted to the filter.

Gotta picture of your forcewinder??
You'll probably get better suggestions that way.

mud


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Post #: 134
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 5:27:04 PM   
DynaDan


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There's some great stuff in this thread.  Thanks to everyone who has posted.  Mud, Shoptroll, you guys do some great work and I enjoy your posts.  Keep sharing, it's giving me some good ideas and the confidence to start getting more creative with my bike.  

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Post #: 135
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 5:35:46 PM   
x2lee



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I added a link to some pics with the forcewinder in view, everytime I try to download a pic I get booted offsite, it also happens on the online image resizer I use.... damned PC...   BTW a washer with a spike may do the trick with some 3m tape... Its the best idea i have gotten so far for sure
http://www.hdforums.com/m_2542293/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#2542293



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Thomas

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Post #: 136
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 6:19:44 PM   
SPECIAL ED


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Joe you need to yank those heat shields off, your pipes look WAY better without them.If you don't like the white color just re spray them with a good quality high heat paint.I used Krylon high heat on mine seems to stay black pretty well.You can't put too many coats of high heat paint on that tape.The lighter color you see on the muffler part is actually Rustoleum High heat it's also an excellent choice I just used up the Krylon because I had it left over from another project.

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/12/2007 6:27:44 PM   
Citoriplus



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x2lee,
This may sound a bit odd, but bare with me a minute.

Go down to the nearest Home Depot or Lowes and check out the selection of door stops.
Not the spring kind the old fashioned solid ones with the rubber bumper on the end.
Most of them have a built in wood screw in the base but if your lucky you can find one that has a machine screw that you screw a double ended wood/macine screw into. If you can find one grab it, if not you can still use the wood screw version. Its just a little harder.

Take the stop home and get your trusty drill and put it in a vise. Chuck the stop into it by the screw end and you have a cheap lathe. Turn the drill on and lock it so it keeps running and use some files and a sanding block to reshape the length of the shaft and end to the desired shape.
Its going to take some time and patience, but the end product will be worth it. Cause you did it yourself.

Once its done you can use some polishing compound on some cloth backed by a piece of wood to smooth and shine things up.

Put several light layers of clear over it or paint it to match the bike and your done.

Mounting it should be easy. Take the filter off and you should be able to see in the back or carb end all the way to the front. Take the filter and mark the center of the end and drill a small hole. If you have the stop with the machine screw threads in it drill the hole to the screws size and just use a long screwdriver to put the right size screw and washer with some RED Lock-Tite on it, so the damn thing doesn't come loose and get sucked into the engine.

An important note here is that once you have drilled the hole, make sure that you get ANY and ALL of the shavings out of the inside of the filter.

If you have the kind with a wood screw put a little bit of JB Weld or Gorilla glue under the base and screw it into the hole. Let it sit overnight and you should be able to reinstall the filter in 24 hours.

Hope that works for you.

Ride Safe
Frank


_____________________________

07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

(in reply to x2lee)
Post #: 138
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 8:35:55 AM   
stagolee


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Nice mod, Hogrida06.

Any chance of getting a clearer picture of the finished front end?

Thanks.

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Post #: 139
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 8:51:12 AM   
Nightrider2


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DUCT TAPE HARD BAGS!! Ok, take 2 cardboard boxes of the appropriate size, now, you can make the loooooooong , loooooooow style, standard style, whatever style you want, apply the duct tape generously , THEN, paint them the color you like, along with flames, airbrush different things on them to "personalize" them to your bike. Price, probably about 6-8 dollars, the looks and comment's [not compliments] you will get , well, they will be PRICELESS

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Post #: 140
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 10:06:39 AM   
JRK5892



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ed i already have the new wrap and heat paint... it is in my winter mod pile... i am just going to do everything at once... my SEII mufflers are going in to be done in black chrome powder coat to tie it all in... no more ghetto heat shields!

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"PUT YOUR KNUCKLES TO THE WIND"

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Post #: 141
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 2:34:18 PM   
matkiwi


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Nightrider2

DUCT TAPE HARD BAGS!! Ok, take 2 cardboard boxes of the appropriate size, now, you can make the loooooooong , loooooooow style, standard style, whatever style you want, apply the duct tape generously , THEN, paint them the color you like, along with flames, airbrush different things on them to "personalize" them to your bike. Price, probably about 6-8 dollars, the looks and comment's [not compliments] you will get , well, they will be PRICELESS


These I gotta see !




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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 6:11:52 PM   
SPECIAL ED


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quote:

DUCT TAPE HARD BAGS


Come on you can't leave us hangin you gotta have pics.Actually sounds like something from my friends at  http://www.ratbike.org/ thier tech section has plenty of under $50 projects.


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 7:13:12 PM   
x2lee



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Thanks for the replies and ideas, this one below was really original. As Mud said I am able to get to the backside of the filter when its removed. I found this: \\; \\; \\; on ebay for \\;5 bucks. When it arrives im going to drill out the billet on the front of the filter and \\;from there it sounds like a simple 30 min mod.
I will be careful to make sure I get all the shavings out also. \\;Just drill, clean, locktite, and screw...
Thanks for the help.
quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

x2lee,
This may sound a bit odd, but bare with me a minute.

Go down to the nearest Home Depot or Lowes and check out the selection of door stops.
Not the spring kind the old fashioned solid ones with the rubber bumper on the end.
Most of them have a built in wood screw in the base but if your lucky you can find one that has a machine screw that you screw a double ended wood/macine screw into. If you can find one grab it, if not you can still use the \\;wood screw version. Its just a little harder.

Take the stop home and get your trusty drill and put it in a vise. Chuck the stop into it by the screw end and you have a cheap lathe. Turn the drill on and lock it so it keeps running and use some files and a sanding block to reshape the length of the shaft and end to the desired shape.
Its going to take some time and patience, but the end product will be worth it. Cause you did it yourself.

Once its done you can use some polishing compound on some cloth backed by a piece of wood to smooth and shine things up.

Put several light layers of clear over it or paint it to match the bike and your done.

Mounting it should be easy. Take the filter off and you should be able to see in the back or carb end all the way to the front. Take the filter and mark the center of the end and drill a small hole. If you have the stop with the machine screw threads in it drill the hole to the screws size and just use a long screwdriver to put the right size screw and washer with some RED Lock-Tite on it, so the damn thing doesn''t come loose and get sucked into the engine.

An important note here is \\;that once you have drilled the hole, make sure that you get ANY and ALL of the \\;shavings out of the inside of the filter.

If you have the kind with a wood screw put a little bit of JB Weld or Gorilla glue under the base and screw it into the hole. Let it sit overnight and you should be able to reinstall the filter \\;in 24 hours.

Hope that works for you.

Ride Safe
Frank



< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 6/20/2008 6:27:35 AM >


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Its all fun and games until the flying monkeys attack...

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Post #: 144
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 8:33:04 PM   
mudpuddle


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thomas, looks like you are on the right track.

I may consider a different head configuration for the screw.
Maybe not.
RED loctite, for sure.

mud



quote:

ORIGINAL: x2lee

Thanks for the replies and ideas, this one below was really original. As Mud said I am able to get to the backside of the filter when its removed. I found this: \\; \\; \\; on ebay for \\;5 bucks. When it arrives im going to drill out the billet on the front of the filter and \\;from there it sounds like a simple 30 min mod.
I will be careful to make sure I get all the shavings out also. \\;Just drill, clean, locktite, and screw...
Thanks for the help.
quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

x2lee,
This may sound a bit odd, but bare with me a minute.

Go down to the nearest Home Depot or Lowes and check out the selection of door stops.
Not the spring kind the old fashioned solid ones with the rubber bumper on the end.
Most of them have a built in wood screw in the base but if your lucky you can find one that has a machine screw that you screw a double ended wood/macine screw into. If you can find one grab it, if not you can still use the \\;wood screw version. Its just a little harder.

Take the stop home and get your trusty drill and put it in a vise. Chuck the stop into it by the screw end and you have a cheap lathe. Turn the drill on and lock it so it keeps running and use some files and a sanding block to reshape the length of the shaft and end to the desired shape.
Its going to take some time and patience, but the end product will be worth it. Cause you did it yourself.

Once its done you can use some polishing compound on some cloth backed by a piece of wood to smooth and shine things up.

Put several light layers of clear over it or paint it to match the bike and your done.

Mounting it should be easy. Take the filter off and you should be able to see in the back or carb end all the way to the front. Take the filter and mark the center of the end and drill a small hole. If you have the stop with the machine screw threads in it drill the hole to the screws size and just use a long screwdriver to put the right size screw and washer with some RED Lock-Tite on it, so the damn thing doesn''t come loose and get sucked into the engine.

An important note here is \\;that once you have drilled the hole, make sure that you get ANY and ALL of the \\;shavings out of the inside of the filter.

If you have the kind with a wood screw put a little bit of JB Weld or Gorilla glue under the base and screw it into the hole. Let it sit overnight and you should be able to reinstall the filter \\;in 24 hours.

Hope that works for you.

Ride Safe
Frank




< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 6/20/2008 6:28:09 AM >

(in reply to x2lee)
Post #: 145
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/13/2007 11:37:18 PM   
Citoriplus



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From: Rochester, NY
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quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

thomas, looks like you are on the right track.

I may consider a different head configuration for the screw.
Maybe not.
RED loctite, for sure.

mud




I hadn't thought of something like that, and your right mud. that countersunk screw has to go.
Best bet would be to find an allen bolt that has the same thread size and use that with a washer the same size as or larger than the bottom part (fender washer?) of the spike to spread the loading.

I would have tried for one without the "pinched" bottom part. That one looks a little too much like some kind of sex toy for my taste.

I guess you can always cut it down to eliminate that part after drilling a small pilot hole that goes past the cut line. With the pilot hole you can easily drill it for any size bolt you want that's centered, the bigger the better, and run a tap into it.

_____________________________

07 FXSTC
U.S. Army Vietnam Vet
FOR THOSE WHO FOUGHT FOR IT - FREEDOM HAS A PRICE THE PROTECTED WILL NEVER KNOW.

(in reply to mudpuddle)
Post #: 146
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/14/2007 7:49:53 PM   
x2lee



Posts: 3283
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From: Appling GA
Status: offline
Now thats messed up! I could have lived with it for 10 years and never thought of that and now I cant install it because it will cross my mind everytime I look at it you are evil! 

Maybe if the screwhole is deep enough I can cut it off and make a wider hole and slide the whole narrow part in and put a washer on it from the inside. If not I will just buy a tap and cut it off like you said. As far as the screw I can just take a 3/8 bit and concave the inside of the filter so the screw sits flush.

I am installing an airdam/lower fork fairing this weekend since its gonna be cold and nasty here in GA, I am going to relocate my horn behind it and clean up my jugs like I saw posted in this thread, thats an awesome mod. My prob is on that is my enricher is located on the horn mount, i think I am just going to leave the mount and shave it off except for the enricher housing. I think it being black will just blend in and vanish...   thoughts?
quote:

ORIGINAL: Citoriplus

quote:

ORIGINAL: mudpuddle

thomas, looks like you are on the right track.

I may consider a different head configuration for the screw.
Maybe not.
RED loctite, for sure.

mud




I hadn't thought of something like that, and your right mud. that countersunk screw has to go.
Best bet would be to find an allen bolt that has the same thread size and use that with a washer the same size as or larger than the bottom part (fender washer?) of the spike to spread the loading.

I would have tried for one without the "pinched" bottom part. That one looks a little too much like some kind of sex toy for my taste.

I guess you can always cut it down to eliminate that part after drilling a small pilot hole that goes past the cut line. With the pilot hole you can easily drill it for any size bolt you want that's centered, the bigger the better, and run a tap into it.


_____________________________


Thomas

Its all fun and games until the flying monkeys attack...

(in reply to Citoriplus)
Post #: 147
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/14/2007 9:45:24 PM   
Citoriplus



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Sorry I popped you bubble. But I worked for nearly 20 years in the midtown 42nd street area of NYC before they cleaned it up. So I have seen a lot of things that are not found in your l