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HOW TO - under fifty bux

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HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 4:49:51 PM   
mudpuddle


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Gonna start a topic here for cheap simple how-tos,

not for catalog bought items, do it yourself.

Winter setting in for some.
Money short for some/me.

Like to see pictures and details on tools needed and technique.

Cheaper the better.

And comments from the peanut gallery -
requests for more info
ideas for improvement on a design
ideas for a potential project
challenges
etc

Index to mods follows pix below.

Start with one I did today.
Saw this done by HDFDyna brother 74c10sb.
http://www.hdforums.com/m_2537965/tm.htm
I believe he did it for tank clearance after a bar change.

For me, just wanted to tuck the signals up closer,
I like it, but I'm gonna look at it for a few daze.

I used a die grinder with a thin cutoff blade to notch
the receptacle nut, then finished with a chainsaw file.

Indexed position on the clutch side with a thin washer.
brake side, I used shim stock between knuckle bolt and the receptacle nut.

Cost - next to nuthin.

mud

Here is the stock front sigs, hangin down:


Here is the after mod result, tucked up:






Page 01
front sig tuck                        mud     post#1
                                               see above
risers                                   JRK5892     post# 4
                              http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2546661
black exhaust                       HogGlider     post# 5
                       http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2546673
front signal relocate              HOGRIDA_06     post# 7
                              http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=2546955


somehow the index got deleted.
I'll put it back a little at a time.


page 19
726 http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3043568 tank lift - dog
736 http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3063359 polishing - JRK5892
745 http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3070069 wire by dice - lee
750  http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3073202 deutsch connectors - mud
754 http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3076864 linkage trinkets - lee
758  http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3078965 tools - mud


page 20
763 http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3086533 paint - Bobber Rider
766  http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3093485 flop around - mud
773 http://www.hdforums.com/fb.asp?m=3116540 front fender - mud





< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 5/31/2008 8:40:26 AM >


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 5:10:12 PM   
MONDOMAN

 

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Mud,

   Great looking job on tucking the signal lights!

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 5:17:23 PM   
squeeech


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G'day Mud,

No responses after all ya trouble . here's one:  Turn ya stock mirrors 180 degrees.  On the stock FXD & DC the mirrors are the widest part, if ya turn 'em you gain about 1 and a half inchs on EACH side, which makes a real improvement for splittin' lanes, ( I'm in traffic every day).  It actually looks better too because they sit in tighter almost up against the master cyl, bit hard to read the "appear closer' warning, but i have memorised that message :)

cya when ya come down under Mud.

Graham.

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 5:29:58 PM   
JRK5892



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3 dollar homemade risers
ok... here is what you do:
first decide how all you want to go... pull the stock bolt that feeds up from the bottom of the tree and into the stock handlebar clamp... take that to home depot or the hardware store... get a 1 or 2 in longer HARDENED bolt that matches the same threads and demensions just longer... then pick up a box of fender washers that match the bolt (they should be around the size of a quarter or half dollar)... now take a walk over to plumbing and pick up a piece of chrome piping that matches the circumfrance of the washers (the piping that i used was the kind that is under sinks... thin and chrome, it does not bear weight it is just for looks).... last thing to get is a push chrome cap that fits the pipe.  ooh ya and some lock tite
Now how to do it:
pull your bars and pull your stock bar clamps off... find the exact center of the push caps and drill that out to match the circumfrance of the new bolts you will be using... measure out how high you want to raise your bars, then just count out the number of washers it will take to acomplish the lift. after you know the amount of washers it will take measure the stack of washers (goes without saying but make sure both of your stacks have the same amount of washers)
cut your plumbing pipe to match the height of the washers, BEFORE CUTTING, put some packing tape around the area to be cut, this will prevent the chrome from flaking, after both peices are cut file down the rough edges and put it all together (use just a touch of marine grease on the washers to prevent any squeeking... just a touch) mine squeeked a bit but my dads and brothers never made a peep... just tighen it all down and there you go! 3 dollar risers! Here is a crude picture to give you a idea

Fog lights on bob
i ran the power line off the main power on the headlight,then tapped in a seperate switch... i like being able to turn them on and off at will as when i am riding with a group they are BLINDING if you are in front of me... a buddy of mine hit a deer early this summer that was just standing in the middle of the road, he said he could not see it... i have done fog lights, and driving lights like I have on almost every bike i ride with... we love them... being able to see is key when you are out on the bike! this is where i got my driving lights from...
Driving lights: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=
016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260112319854&rd=1,1
Aluminum Billet style 35 watt Chrome lights with hardware, Auxiliary lights, Driving lights for Car, Buggy, Motorcycle, SOLD IN PAIRS! Brand New. UNBOXED. 2 Per Order.

- before i had these on i had a set from walmart... they worked just as good just where not chrome they were black... i went to the hardwear section and got a T bracket at the base of the T i bolted that to the headlight support bolt under the tree, i then counter sunk the bolts on either side of the T to hold the fog lights and also added some 3m outdoor tape to just add a bit more support they worked out great! but then my brother got the chrome driving lights and i decided to do the same... i pulled my trees and just drilled and tapped them right into the bottom of the trees... used some super glue at the base of the bolts and lock tight at the top (this will allow them to hold true and not move with the vibration but still allows you to break them loose if you have to) the superglue and locktite trick throws people off alot but i have been doing it for years on Cafe's that i built... anything that shakes and rattles alot needs more than just locktite.

edited out the stretcher


< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 5/31/2008 8:23:21 AM >


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 5:31:50 PM   
HogGlider



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How about something for the Black'd out Exhaust mod? I forget who originally posted it. I will try and sift through the board and find it if possible.

Basic run down was just to purchase some Flat Black Paint. The BBQ paint you could find at like Lowes/Home Depot seems to have worked the best. I spent about $18 I believe for 2 cans, masking tape, and sandpaper. I have logged about 7K miles since I painted my exhaust with only a minor scratch of the paint due to removal of Mid-control's. For those of you who want the black look for cheap, this is an easy one to do...and nobody can tell they weren't ceramic coated unless you tell them if done right.


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 6:00:09 PM   
SPECIAL ED


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This is a good topic but I think it should be more than a topic on the Dyna forum like maybe a whole new catagory in the forum, like low buck mods or something like that.I initially thought that my fender chop job would qualify but I forgot that I'm using a Harley tail light/brake light turn signal thingy that probably cost over 100 by itself.I have been thinking about a cheap turn signal relocation using commonly available hardware store components.


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 6:32:30 PM   
HOGRIDA_06



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Front turn signal relocation..............

1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2"..............

Drill hole in one end big enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt...............

Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt)..................

Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long.................

Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer.   

I don't have any pics. right now but I'll help anyone who's interested.
I'm not much of a button pusher so here's a crappy sketch.


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 7:03:35 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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Pretty basic and I am sure more than a few have done it but paintingthe battery band black (or whatever color you want).  I just scuffed it up with steel wool and hit it with a couple coats of black, and a couple coats of clear.  Did the same with hi-way peg brackets. 

Mounted my rear blinkers flush to the strut mount bar, I can't remember what size bolt I used length wise but it was around 1" or 3/4"

relocate the stock horn to clean it up a bit (I have not done it yet but it will happen soon, but I know mud and a few others have write ups on it)


I hope others have some cool stuff to add

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 7:37:30 PM   
74c10sb


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i wanted to improve on kuryakyns iso stirrups although i liked them it just seamed like my heels were always slipping off so i wanted something a little bigger and more in line with the pegs so what i did was take some scrap aluminum diamond plate trimmed to the size that i wanted four small button head allen bolts and nylock nuts (cant remeber size) washers placed under diamond plate for spacers so the aluminum wouldnt flex when i tighten them down and some 3m grip tape i think the total spent was around five bucks


Thumbnail Image



Thumbnail Image



Thumbnail Image



Thumbnail Image


Attachment (4)

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 8:30:19 PM   
XKROME


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wrapped my grips with leather and they feel and look great IMO and best of all they aren't KROME i just started from the out side bottom and went in and back. then tied the two ends together so its double thickness and makes them way more comfy.
 
 

< Message edited by XKROME -- 5/9/2008 5:16:12 PM >


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Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 8:34:47 PM   
XKROME


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Tool-Latteralis CD air cleaner cover


     

< Message edited by XKROME -- 2/8/2008 10:23:07 PM >


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~Jay

''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''

Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 8:49:07 PM   
SPECIAL ED


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From: Templeton California
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quote:

Front turn signal relocation..............


I'm definately interested.I'd appreciate some pics up close and from a couple different angles If you could.I was originally thinking of hanging some "L" brackets off the  triple clamp  pinch bolts or just some flat straight pieces of steel and mounting the signals to those, am I even close?


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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 8:50:39 PM   
XKROME


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relocate fronts to lower fork tree with existing hardware.


I noticed that the left side hardware on handlebar will bolt on with a little drilling so i got another one  for the right side and powder coated with the sigs. Found some small boots at Napa part #82833 and cut one in half. here's one assembled and one ready.


and installed





 


< Message edited by XKROME -- 5/9/2008 5:14:19 PM >


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~Jay

''You only live once but if you do it right once is enough''

Patriot Guard Rider
Silver 2005 FXD
1965 HD 250 Sprint "H" (Project)
Will be a small Bobber

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:06:12 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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Alright here are a coupl of pics of what I meant by the tucked rear signals, battery band paint job and hi-way peg mount paint job.  I hope this works

[IMG]http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a61/tlhastz/tuckedrearfenders005.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a61/tlhastz/tuckedrearfenders003.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a61/tlhastz/tuckedrearfenders002.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a61/tlhastz/tuckedrearfenders001.jpg[/IMG]

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:07:26 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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2nd try

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:08:23 PM   
VenturaChop

 

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do lower case img

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:08:56 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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well crap never mind then, I can't figure out how to post a picture. 

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:09:45 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:10:31 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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alright here we go

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:11:38 PM   
VenturaChop

 

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did you use lower case img/.???   looks bad ass man thats my next mod

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:12:15 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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alright there are the pics of the rear turn signals tucked in, painted battery band and painted hi way peg brackets on my bob. 

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:14:02 PM   
TheeBoy

 

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thanks ventura, keep me posted on the 16" rear wheel/tire combo

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:39:05 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: MONDOMAN

Mud,

  Great looking job on tucking the signal lights!


Thanx for the compliment MONDO.

Couple hours, takin my time and pix.

mud

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:39:40 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: squeeech

G'day Mud,

No responses after all ya trouble .

here's one:  Turn ya stock mirrors 180 degrees. 
On the stock FXD & DC the mirrors are the widest part,

if ya turn 'em you gain about 1 and a half inchs on EACH side,

which makes a real improvement for splittin' lanes, ( I'm in traffic every day). 

It actually looks better too because they sit in tighter almost up against the master cyl,
bit hard to read the "appear closer' warning, but i have memorised that message :)

cya when ya come down under Mud.

Graham.


Yeah, G'day Graham. Bout 70F here in Texas.

Thanx for the input. Sounds like a winner.

Got any pix of yours??

Looking forward to getting over there one a these daze.

mud

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Post #: 24
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:40:47 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: JRK5892

Harley beer pong table (not really a how to but still cool)


Thanks for the input here Joe.
Good ones all, no doubt.

Man, your posting looks like a sleazy eBay ad though.

Do you really need to emphasize with the humongous fonts??

Keep em comin.

mud

edited to add (012908) -
Thanx for downsizing the fonts Joe.

Fits in a lot better now.

mud

< Message edited by mudpuddle -- 1/29/2008 9:31:22 PM >

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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:41:40 PM   
mudpuddle


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Glider, that's a definite plus on the list.

Cain't get much more mileage outta 2canzapaint.

Big diff for those of us unchromers.

mud

quote:

ORIGINAL: HogGlider

How about something for the Black'd out Exhaust mod? I forget who originally posted it. I will try and sift through the board and find it if possible.

Basic run down was just to purchase some Flat Black Paint. The BBQ paint you could find at like Lowes/Home Depot seems to have worked the best. I spent about $18 I believe for 2 cans, masking tape, and sandpaper. I have logged about 7K miles since I painted my exhaust with only a minor scratch of the paint due to removal of Mid-control's. For those of you who want the black look for cheap, this is an easy one to do...and nobody can tell they weren't ceramic coated unless you tell them if done right.


(in reply to HogGlider)
Post #: 26
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:42:21 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: SPECIAL ED

***********************************
I initially thought that my fender chop job would qualify
but I forgot that I'm using a Harley tail light/brake light turn signal thingy
that probably cost over 100 by itself.

***********************************


ED, throw in your pix.

The light thingy is after the fact.

Bobbing off the tail end is a popular topic.

mud

(in reply to SPECIAL ED)
Post #: 27
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:43:09 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: HOGRIDA_06

Front turn signal relocation..............
1/8" stainless steel ruffly 3/4" by 1 1/2"..............
Drill hole in one end big enough for clearance of the triple tree clamp bolt...............
Drill hole in other end 3/8" (clearance for 5/16' bolt)..................
Cut a piece of 3/8" ID tubing about 3" long.................
Mount one end of the 1/8" stainless bar to the lower triple clamp bolt, then mount the signal to the other end using the tubing as a spacer.   
I don't have any pics. right now but I'll help anyone who's interested.
I'm not much of a button pusher so here's a crappy sketch.


Thanx RIDA.

Post up some pix, if you get a chance.

What is a ruffly??

mud

(in reply to HOGRIDA_06)
Post #: 28
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:43:50 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: TheeBoy

Pretty basic and I am sure more than a few have done it but paintingthe battery band black (or whatever color you want).  I just scuffed it up with steel wool and hit it with a couple coats of black, and a couple coats of clear.  Did the same with hi-way peg brackets. 
Mounted my rear blinkers flush to the strut mount bar, I can't remember what size bolt I used length wise but it was around 1" or 3/4"
relocate the stock horn to clean it up a bit (I have not done it yet but it will happen soon, but I know mud and a few others have write ups on it)


I hope others have some cool stuff to add


Three good ones TBoy. Thanx.

Basic is good.

mud

(in reply to TheeBoy)
Post #: 29
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux - 12/4/2007 9:44:30 PM   
mudpuddle


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quote:

ORIGINAL: 74c10sb

i wanted to improve on kuryakyns iso stirrups
although i liked them it just seamed like my heels were always slipping off
so i wanted something a little bigger and more in line with the pegs
so what i did was take some scrap aluminum diamond plate trimmed to the size
that i wanted four small button head allen bolts and nylock nuts (cant remeber size)
washers placed under diamond plate for spacers so the aluminum wouldnt flex
when i tighten them down
and some 3m grip tape
i think the total spent was around five bucks


Nice job c10.

Industrial style.

My favorite.

mud