S&S Carb Rebuild

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S&S Carb Rebuild

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S&S Carb Rebuild - 2/1/2006 6:45:08 PM

HDF Tech

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S&S Carb Rebuild..Super E & G
Demystifying Super G Maintenance

With a history of proven performance firmly behind S&S Cycle, it's no wonder so many V-twins out there are equipped with S&S carburetors to ensure the motor is fed the proper air/fuel mixture for optimum performance. As with everything else on a bike, periodic maintenance is required to keep its carb in top condition.

While you may observe a clean and shiny carburetor on the outside, there's a really good chance things are not so rosy looking on the inside. Sooner or later, it comes time remove the carb, disassemble it, and clean, inspect, and replace parts due to the accumulation of small particles of sediment resulting from contact with gasoline over time. These particles have a knack of getting themselves into passages and orifices designed to meter air and fuel precisely.

Once in there, these particles can cause poor motor performance. In addition, friction causes wear on numerous internal surfaces. Left unchecked, the combination of wear and contamination can spell bad news. But, there is a solution.

Follow along as we take you through the steps involved in rebuilding a Super G (as well as a Super E) with the parts included in S&S' Master Rebuild Kit. This service is not that difficult and should take someone with even modest mechanical skills around two to three hours. Although not shown in the photos, a good carb cleaner should be used each step of the way to be sure all the parts are clean prior to assembly.

With the fuel line disconnected, and the carb drained and removed from the intake manifold, we began by inspecting the aluminum plugs pressed into the body of the carb. They needed to be tight and show no signs of leakage. If leakage was evident, S&S could supply replacement plugs.

After removing the idle mixture screw (we counted how many turns it took to back it out and recorded that number for later use), it was time to inspect the fitment between the throttle plate and the carburetor's throat. If we saw light between the two when the plate was in the closed position, then we'd suspect the plate may be worn and needed replacement. This was also a good time to check for wear on the throttle shaft.

After cleaning off the tip of the idle mixture screw, we took a Sharpie and coated the tapered portion of it with ink. It was then reinserted until it bottomed out. We then removed it again and inspected it to see if there were any signs of any uneven wear. If there were, we would have had to replace it with the new piece included in the kit.

We pulled the enrichment plunger from the body by removing the plunger nut and spring. We then closely inspected the metal tip of the stock plunger and used a flashlight to get a good look at the mating seating surface to be sure it too was in good shape.

It was then time to remove the screws that secured the bowl assembly to the carb body. We refrained from removing the pump cap assembly at this point to avoid losing the ball checks and springs.

Before any damage was done to the float, the float pin screw was removed to gain access to, and remove, the float pin, needle, and float.

Since the float pin was beginning to wear, we replaced it with a new one.

Next, we removed the existing seat from the bottom of the bowl and replaced it with the new one in the k

< Message edited by TCSTD -- 2/1/2006 7:02:29 PM >