Ok, now click on the link and rotate your monitor 90 degrees to the clockwise. Now, I'm trying to update the wiring on my 79 Sportster. I've torn this bike down into every piece it could go in and I'm pretty far along in its re-assebmly.It's time to rewire it. I've drawn a roughdiagram (if it sucks it was not me) andI'm looking for some input. I have a concern about the ignition lead coming from the battery, but I think it'sOK other than that. I think that if there are many eyes on this draft, I can make a better-working second. If you guys are nice, I might even post some pics of the build!
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I'm not sure I'm comfortable with "we'll make it fit.".
To clear this "update" up alittle, I'm going to use an ato/atc style fuse block. it has one large pin (shown) feeding 6 fuse slots. The headlight is from a 2004 1200XL. The word "handlebar" appears under the indicator lights because I've mounted LED points into the handlebars. I also want tostreamline the rediculous starting circut. I plan to use the starter relay from a mid 70's Chrysler instead of the Ford-solenoid-looking thing that was on there. All other components are stock.
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I'm not sure I'm comfortable with "we'll make it fit.".
With just a quick glance at your diagram, I see a couple things I question.
1) You call out a fuse in the wire going from the "Batt +" to the ignition switch.
A circuit breaker will better suit your needs here than a fuse. If something causes the circuit to fail, a fuse will blow while a circuit breaker will reset itself.
2) Not real sure what you are doing here at the ignition switch......You seem to be showing a replacement switch of some kind, and I fail to see where your 'start button' is located. I assume the switch has a start position? Or perhaps since we are talking about a 1979 here, I may be back in the dark ages with my 1974 and earlier knowledge, and if so, pardon me............pg
Yeah, I put a different switch on it. The switch has the spring-loaded start position like a car.
I am a little concerned about the ability of the start switch to handle the load though. Will I be OK with the wire coming straight from the battery to the switch (through a breaker, of course)?
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I'm not sure I'm comfortable with "we'll make it fit.".
Yeah, I put a different switch on it. The switch has the spring-loaded start position like a car.
I am a little concerned about the ability of the start switch to handle the load though. Will I be OK with the wire coming straight from the battery to the switch (through a breaker, of course)?
The switch should be no problem. Some wiring set ups have the battery wire going to the regulator, then off the same regulator post (Batt +) to the switch. Same difference, just another way to run the wire.
The starter motor circuit is where the amperage lies, thus the reason for the heavy cable. The starter requires a lot of juice and this needs the large cable being between the battery and the starter. Just like a car (battery cables) are used to do the same thing.............pg
Thanks for the help. I just drew that while I was at work (I know, my job's awesome)the other day and wanted some feedback before I tried it. I'll give 'er a whirl and see what happens.
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I'm not sure I'm comfortable with "we'll make it fit.".
Wiring with Bob Ross
