Harley Davidson Forum

Fork seals

  Printable Version
Harley Davidson >> Harley Davidson Motorcycles >> Classic >> Ironhead >> Fork seals Page: [1]
Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
Fork seals - 1/23/2008 6:41:17 AM   
Badger

 

Posts: 24
Joined: 6/4/2007
Status: offline
Starting some work on a 76 xlch soon, while it is still winter. Want to get everything done I can for spring so I can ride. One of the repairs I need to do is replace the fork seals. I have already picked up a fork seal kit from the dealer. I do have the factory repair manual. However, still looking for any advice, tips, tricks, tools, etc. that might help do it right.
Thanks.
Post #: 1
RE: Fork seals - 1/23/2008 12:13:56 PM   
pyro


Posts: 231
Joined: 11/15/2005
Status: offline
pyro's photo gallery
You may need to spin the allen screw (the one at the bottom of the tube that is revealed by taking the wheel off) really FAST (as in impact-driver-fast) in order to break it free from the damper, otherwise it will spin endlessly. Also, when I replace the fork seals on my '77, I found out that the top of the fork tubes are tapered a bit, (like a sharpened pencil w/o the led). They were "stuck", so once I loosened the clamping screws on the bottem tree, I loosened the top nut a few threads and then knocked the top nut with a rubber mallat to free it up.

Rich

_____________________________



(almost done) http://www.hdforums.com/albumphoto.asp?albumid=2253&asortType=1&apage=1



(in reply to Badger)
Post #: 2
RE: Fork seals - 1/23/2008 5:37:52 PM   
heavy.clutch

 

Posts: 28
Joined: 8/11/2007
Status: offline
heavy.clutch's photo gallery
quote:

ORIGINAL: pyro

You may need to spin the allen screw (the one at the bottom of the tube that is revealed by taking the wheel off) really FAST (as in impact-driver-fast) in order to break it free from the damper, otherwise it will spin endlessly.


With mine i loosened the bottom allen screw first before i took the cap off, it had enough tension from the spring to stop it from turning, maybe it wasnt tight enough i dont know give it a try any way.You may want to replace the wear rings on the damper while its out, and lightly oil the seal before installing it. Paul

(in reply to pyro)
Post #: 3
RE: Fork seals - 1/28/2008 8:22:24 AM   
Badger

 

Posts: 24
Joined: 6/4/2007
Status: offline
Thanks for the tips. I am sure they will be useful and make the job a little easier. I am planning to start the work possibly this weekend.

(in reply to heavy.clutch)
Post #: 4
RE: Fork seals - 2/8/2008 9:56:05 AM   
Badger

 

Posts: 24
Joined: 6/4/2007
Status: offline
Still have not had time to start this yet. Free time seems to be very scarce these days. Hopefully I will start it this weekend.
Anyway, I have been going over the work in my head. Trying to think it through before I start. The one thing that I have been wondering is, do I even have to take the upper fork tubes off the bike? Can I just remove the lowers, replace everything and reinstall with the uppers left in the fork clamps on the bike? Looking at the manual it looks like everything should come out of the bottom of the upper tube.

(in reply to Badger)
Post #: 5
RE: Fork seals - 2/8/2008 1:26:35 PM   
heavy.clutch

 

Posts: 28
Joined: 8/11/2007
Status: offline
heavy.clutch's photo gallery
The upper tubes can stay on.Its a very simple taske .i have Showa forks.The hardest part will be getting the old seal out.
Remove wheel,undo little drain screw out the side of forks,drain oil.
i then removed the screw holding the damper in, there will be a little bit of tension on the damper from the spring which may help to undo the screw , then dissasemble as per manual. I had my forks done in a couple of hours. Very easy.

(in reply to Badger)
Post #: 6
RE: Fork seals - 5/6/2008 6:18:40 AM   
Badger

 

Posts: 24
Joined: 6/4/2007
Status: offline
Well, I finally found some time to take care of the fork seals. You were all correct. The hardest part was pulling the old seals out.
One thing I would like to let others know is that when I pulled the forks apart I found that the allen bolts at the bottom of the fork tubes had been covered with what I believe is blue silicone Permatex. I assumed that who ever worked on the bike before I bought it, used it to help hold the bolts in place and reduce the chance that they could back out. Seemed like a good idea, so I put it back together the same way.
Again, thanks to all of you for the advise. Don't know what I was worried about. Now I have to start on all the other repairs, rocker box leak, carbon fouling, valve adjustments, timing, etc...
I will keep you all up to date on my progress.

(in reply to heavy.clutch)
Post #: 7
Login OR Register now to post a reply to this forum topic.
Page:   [1]

 
Harley Davidson Forums >> Harley Davidson Motorcycles >> Classic >> Ironhead
Jump to:



Featured Sponsors
Advertising Info

New Vendors
Warehouse Direc
Baker Drive Train
Haulen Ass
Pickard USA
Harley Goodies
Pickard USA
AMSOIL - Performance Oil Technology
Brain Bucket Magazine
HDForums.com Sponsors
AMSOIL - Performance Oil Technology

HDForums.com is not affiliated with or endorsed by Harley Davidson, Inc.