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Garage floor - 2/9/2008 3:57:46 PM   
rabidd

 

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What do you think is the best way to go on a garage floor to make it look good and wear well with the best stain protection. Do you think a painted coating or the rubber tiles? What have you done. 
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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 4:35:29 PM   
als88



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i'd be interested too as my garage floor is all pitted from water and road salt. i am looking for some sort of epoxy finish to fill in the pits and chips that also has a color to it. like to make it look a bit better for my scoot. would also have to stand up to cold temps, salt, snow, water, etc...  anyone have any experience with these applications let both of us know. hey rabbid, sorry to hijack your thread, AL

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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 4:42:15 PM   
2005UltraNC


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Epoxy paint is great stuff.  I put it down without the flakes.  As for pits, suggest either filling in the pits with a concrete leveler or having someone grind it down.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 5:17:30 PM   
als88



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2005ultranc, yea i was doing a little research and grinding down, priming then epoxy coating seems like the way to go. thanks, AL

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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 7:46:07 PM   
rabidd

 

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When you say grind it down do you mean like with a hand grinder for steel? What about maybe having it resurfaced first then a coating applied. There are allot of different brands of epoxy coatings out on the market and price range as well. I have around 400 square feet to do and looked at the tiles and they are on the high end. I only want to do this once with out having to do touch up later if it starts pealing or oil eats into it.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 7:49:21 PM   
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Tiles don't have to be high end.  Commercial floor tiles can be scored for under a buck a square foot.  This is my buddy's garage.


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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 7:52:09 PM   
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Paint will also work.  This is one of the rooms that I did in my basement several years ago.  It is nothing more than latex paint sealed with poly.  I am not easy on it either.  We drag heavy stuff over it all the time and do alot of beating and banging on it.  It also sees some water in the wet season.  It has held up great. 




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RE: Garage floor - 2/9/2008 7:55:10 PM   
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If you're going to use tile, you still have to put a lot of prep work into the floor. Bad sub floor = bad tile job. It will come up in places. By the time you're done grinding, filling, prepping & cleaning, IMHO, epoxy is the way to go. One of my daughters did her own garage by herself & it turned out great.



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RE: Garage floor - 2/10/2008 8:57:57 AM   
dog155


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Epoxy is the most durable applied correctly.It is all in prepping the floor.Get in touch with floor people they can help you through it.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/10/2008 10:01:36 AM   
rabidd

 

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I found a company online called Ucoat it they have a kit with chemical resistant and a urethane top coat. What kind of floor tiles where used in the black and orange floor?

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RE: Garage floor - 2/10/2008 6:28:47 PM   
Mr. Clean

 

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When we moved into our new house I was originally planning to paint the garage floor.  However, during construction, some of the sub-contractors damaged the floor - lots of gouges and chunks that appeared to be chipped away.  The builder refused to replace the floor, but offered to grind the floor and paint it.  I saw another floor in the neighbohood that the builder ground down and was not at all happy with the result.  I eventually settled with the builder for a few hundered dollars and shopped around for porcelain ceramic tile.  I found some 12" X 12" floor tile that I believe was left over from a new car dealership showroom.  They are grey in color and have a slight texture to them, making them less slippery when wet.  I paid $1.00 per tile and had them professionlly installed.  The tile installer patched the gouges and chips in the floor before installing the tile.  He used a high quality adhesive and the job came out great.

My tile floor was done 2-1/2 years ago had has held up perfectly.  Porcelain tile has the color through and through.  It is very hard and is chip and crack resistant.  If is should ever get chipped, you will hardly be able to notice the chip.  As a precaution against possibly chipping the tile, I do put a piece of plywood or carpeting under jack stands when working on my car, but it is not necessary to do that when using my motorcycle jack which has steel wheels.

NOTE:
I accidentally attached the image twice and tried to delete one copy.  That is why you see the error below.


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< Message edited by Mr. Clean -- 2/10/2008 6:39:44 PM >

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RE: Garage floor - 2/10/2008 7:04:43 PM   
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Several years ago I epoxy coated mine. I used the Industrial two part gray from Rusto-eum (step up from the basic kit at the home stores) . The garage floor was 25 years old, stained greasy and a mess. I cleared it out and prepared it as recommended. I think I used mariatic acid and a power washer. It was a few hundred bucks for the material and a bit of work. I turned out great.
It looks very good. It stands up to the hot tires. I do some pretty heavy car repairs, floor jack and stands all the time. I've spilled everything you can imagine on it and it just wipes up. I highly recommend it. I have one or two spots about the size of a quarter that are worn though or otherwise bare again. After this many years, so what.
If I was to do it again.
  • I have an area of pitting that I should have filled first. I think the self leveling concrete patch would have worked. The issue here is that I used more epoxy paint in this area trying to "fill" the pits. Also the pits collect dirt. So this issue is mostly cosmetic.
  • Second I would have used the paint flakes to break up the solid gray. After I clean it up, I sound like my wife when I yell because someone just walked over my clean floor with dirty shoes. I think the paint flakes would hide some of the dirt rather than the solid gray. Again cosmetic. 
  • I've seen a clear coat the really makes it shine. I think that over the flakes would look grert. A little more money and time, but if your already into the project.. I know cosmetic.
  • Lastly I would have added more silica sand for non skid. Yep it can get slick. The only time I dropped my bike was in the garage. I rolled the bike back just enough to unlock the jiffy stand. When I leaned back onto the stand which was folding up, I realized the stand wasn't there. The bike was already way over and my foot was slowly sliding away. Yep slow mo drop to the floor.

But, it was the best thing I ever did to my garage. Highly recommend it. It has held up beyond expectation.

Rick

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RE: Garage floor - 2/12/2008 5:27:14 AM   
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I epoxy coated mine with Rusto-eum from Home Depot or Lowes with the Flakes and it has stood Up to Brake Fluid, Gas and other chemical spills and Hot Tires with no Issues. I wash it down every couple of months, and while wet the floor is still not slippery so i am very Pleased

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RE: Garage floor - 2/12/2008 11:26:08 AM   
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I went with the rubber tiles....They work great, spills clean up easy, and no cold floor!  They come in all sorts of colors and styles!!  I was going the way of an epoxy floor, but it took too much time for prep and cure time!!  I didn't have the luxury of waiting!!  Just another option!


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RE: Garage floor - 2/12/2008 5:54:07 PM   
rabidd

 

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Man I guess there is a few options. Mr clean how do you keep from cracking porcelain tiles can you drive a car on them. The rubber tiles seem good but the cost is high. I will look for a good epoxy coating and do a good prep. I have till spring to start cant wait for some warm temps.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/12/2008 6:27:59 PM   
itileman


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Tiles won't crack or break if they're properly bedded on a flat surface. Tiling is the easy part, prep work is the key.
Quarry tile is also pretty common to use, especially in Europe. They're smaller tiles - 6x6 or 8x8 - and less likely to crack because they more easily accommodate some sub-surface imperfections. Crack suppression coatings/membranes are another item that add a lot to the cost of a tiled floor. Add epoxy grout instead of cementious grout and it's even more $$$.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/12/2008 10:53:26 PM   
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I put the rustoleum epoxy down on virgin concrete when I redid my garage 3 years ago. It still looks great. No lifting, staining from anything, or other issues. I've even done a burnout or two without damaging the epoxy. It's heated and I use my shopvac without the filter to vacuum up the snow that melts off the cars. I used the gray with dark blue & black chips/flakes. If I was gonna do it again, I'd use a different color though, maybe the brown. I'm forever dropping bolts, lock washers etc when wrenching out there. The hardware tends to blend into the gray of the floor. I've crawled around alot looking for those things.





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RE: Garage floor - 2/13/2008 4:21:21 AM   
Mr. Clean

 

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rabidd:
I chose 12" X 12" tiles rather than larger tiles.  Smaller tiles tend to crack less than larger tiles because they span a smaller area.  In fact, several tile companies recommended that I use 6" X 6" or 8" X 8" tiles as they would have less chance for cracking.  I did not find any smaller tiles that I liked at a price I was willing to pay.  The tiles I bought were closeout tiles at $1.00 each instead of the original price of $2.00 each.  My garage needed 650 tiles, so I saved quite a bit on the cost of the tile.

Based on the recommendations from two people I know who have had their garages tiled, I chose porcelain tile rather than ceramic tile.  Porcelain tile is much denser than conventional ceramic tile and therefore is much stonger and more chip resistant.  Most ceramic tiles have the finish color only on the top of the tiles which can easily chip.  However, porcelain tiles have the color through and through the tile. 

As I stated in my original post, the tiles were professionally installed.  The concrete floor was level with no high spots.  The problem was chips and gouges which would have showed if the floor was painted or epoxyed.  The installer patched a few of the worst gouges before applying the adhesive.  He used a high quality adhesive and was very careful to make sure to apply the adhesive so that the entire tile would be supported.  Full support means less chance for cracked tiles.

We drive our cars in and out of the garage several times every day as we never leave the cars parked in the driveway.  No cracked tiles so far in 2-1/2 years.  I have dropped wrenches on the floor - no chips so far.  I do use plywood or a piece of carpeting under jackstands when working on the cars to prevent the possiblity of the sharp edges on the bottom of the jackstands from chipping the tiles.  However I do not use carpeting under my floor jack or my motorcycle jack as they have steel wheels. If I had to do it over again, I would do it exactly the same way. 

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RE: Garage floor - 2/16/2008 7:25:58 AM   
Mike05


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check this link for some cool tile.  Many colors and a few different tile designs.

http://www.racedeck.com/

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RE: Garage floor - 2/16/2008 8:54:08 PM   
rabidd

 

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That race deck tile is nice wonder what the cost is per tile.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/18/2008 11:41:52 AM   
GTK

 

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Epoxy finish kits are the way to go

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RE: Garage floor - 2/20/2008 4:08:20 PM   
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I've done both and prefer the tiles. Here is a few pics of my garage just before it was finished.








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RE: Garage floor - 2/20/2008 4:39:42 PM   
rabidd

 

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Boy Abnmarie that is one nice garage. Where did you purchase the tile? My neighbor just did his in brown epoxy looks OK but it didn't fill any of the cracks so they stand out. 

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RE: Garage floor - 2/21/2008 9:44:48 AM   
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We did the epoxy.....it looks great....but be careful...very slippery when it gets wet.....almost lost footing with my bike..........thank god I didn't.........

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RE: Garage floor - 2/21/2008 11:46:33 AM   
Abnmarine


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quote:

ORIGINAL: rabidd

Boy Abnmarie that is one nice garage. Where did you purchase the tile? My neighbor just did his in brown epoxy looks OK but it didn't fill any of the cracks so they stand out. 

The tiles came from Home Depot. The cabinets from Sears. Thanks. I had 3 unfinished walls a month ago and never imagined it to turn out as good as it did.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/21/2008 12:38:00 PM   
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I'm going through garage removation currently.  From insulation, ceiling (used 4x8 sheet foam foil backed), mositure resistant sheetrock. 

My garage floor is very old and has a dip in towards the back.  Had a cment guy come over to shoot a price of overlaying 3" of pour over it fro about $1200.  He then stated, whatever you do don;t paint cement because will eventually flake and chip.  The new thing now is acid staining.  Quoted me $300.  Pretty cool looking. Can virtually do unbelievable creative stuff with it if you are artsy enough.  So, that's what I'll be doing.  Going to apply the acid stain myself.

http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/garage_floor/

I'll post another link that someone did of the HD logo... unbelievable...

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RE: Garage floor - 2/21/2008 1:35:56 PM   
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RaceDeck is the way to go.  I'd NEVER use EPOXY!  Garage floors are typically thinner in the concrete part than the house  and will allow freezing temps (yes, even in SoCal!) to seperate the epoxy from the concrete, and you don't want to know what a big mess that is!

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RE: Garage floor - 2/21/2008 2:19:14 PM   
ronyd

 

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check out the HD logo in acid stain...
http://www.concretenetwork.com/photo-gallery/garage-floors_23/

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RE: Garage floor - 2/21/2008 5:13:50 PM   
als88



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after visiting a bunch of websites i have found out that the floor tiles like race deck are subject to expansion from direct sunlight which will cause them to curl and buckle, which will revert once they cool. also the seams are not water tight so when i park my car in the garage in the winter and all the snow and ice melt off and combine with the salt and seep through all the seams i'm sure that will cause it to lift when it refreezes when it's -10 or my tires will freeze to the tiles and i'll peel them up when i back out. option given on most web sites is to uninstall until spring then put back down. sounds like it's not meant for day to day usage year round. more like nice weather only, show cars and toys, no water, ice, salt etc.

epoxy when put down correctly will not lift when exposed to freezing cold, impervious to sun, salt, snow, ice, rain, mud, washing it down, hot tires will not lift or stick to it. all i can see is good prep, quality product, and some anti-slip will result in a great finish. only bad thing is not to apply in direct sunlight because concrete when hot gives off some sort of off gas that will result in epoxy bubbling and result in not adhereing to that area. and you only have to do it once. hopefully,lol.
all in all i think epoxy is better suited for my needs for bad weather, permanent, don't have to baby it. just my 2 cents. i plan on doing my garage later this year

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RE: Garage floor - 2/22/2008 5:46:44 PM   
OldNo7


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Has anyone tried PVA Wood Glue and Water mix ?.  Seals the floor great, prevents staining and keeps the dust down.  You can mix it in with new cement for the same results and it keeps any damp out.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/26/2008 1:16:48 PM   
Firetender

 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: als88

after visiting a bunch of websites i have found out that the floor tiles like race deck are subject to expansion from direct sunlight which will cause them to curl and buckle, which will revert once they cool. also the seams are not water tight so when i park my car in the garage in the winter and all the snow and ice melt off and combine with the salt and seep through all the seams i'm sure that will cause it to lift when it refreezes when it's -10 or my tires will freeze to the tiles and i'll peel them up when i back out. option given on most web sites is to uninstall until spring then put back down. sounds like it's not meant for day to day usage year round. more like nice weather only, show cars and toys, no water, ice, salt etc.

epoxy when put down correctly will not lift when exposed to freezing cold, impervious to sun, salt, snow, ice, rain, mud, washing it down, hot tires will not lift or stick to it. all i can see is good prep, quality product, and some anti-slip will result in a great finish. only bad thing is not to apply in direct sunlight because concrete when hot gives off some sort of off gas that will result in epoxy bubbling and result in not adhereing to that area. and you only have to do it once. hopefully,lol.
all in all i think epoxy is better suited for my needs for bad weather, permanent, don't have to baby it. just my 2 cents. i plan on doing my garage later this year


The epoxy floors I'm talking about that have lifted and made a huge mess were done by experienced professional contractors on $million+ homes in high-end gated communities in our north county area.  These users have switched to RaceDeck following cleanup.  Good luck with your application - I wouldn't touch epoxy with a ten-foot pole after seeing what can happen.

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RE: Garage floor - 2/26/2008 3:27:27 PM   
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