I just spent an hour typing out a history of the FXDG and a little history on this particular bike, then added pics only to have it all disappear b/c of some problem the forum was having with my browser.
So, in case it happens again, here's the quick and dirty version.
FXDG = FX Disc Glide. Special EditionTwin Belt Wide Glide. 720 - 750 produced. First HD with aluminum disc rear wheel.
My bike
Fresh top-end, 10 over wisecos, Andrews A/B cam, CV carb from 1992 Evo. Fresh 4-speed. BDL enclosed primary belt drive to replace the original belt drive. Good freind took on overhaul of ENTIRE rest of the bike, b/c he's just cool like that. Doing it for the love of the bike, to preserve a peice of HD history.
Big thank you and Kudos to Rachel Carasso and Jack StubbsBuddy Stubbs HD in Arizona. They have an original, unrestored FXDG in therir museum at the dealership.
I called begging for pics of any special markings on the bike.Even though I live several states away and have never spent a dime there and probably never will, they were kind enough to takethese excellent shots and send them to me. Apparently this one did not have the rear fender medallion, but here are the rest. Some very cool stuff.
Another big thank you to newbie Noevo from Sweden. He has a FXDG and he was kind enough to take this pic of the elusive rear fender medallion and send it to me. Very cool.
If anyone knows where to find one like this, PLEASE let me know. I've tried Bil's, Old Dude, NOSparts, and my local HD shop did a nationwide search....nada. The part number is 99017-83.
I also need that points cover and airbreather from the previous post.
Looks Great!!
keep posting them images for us.[sm=smiley32.gif]
shovel4me4ever
03-20-2008, 10:14 PM
IT"S ALIVE!!
We ran the bike for the first time Tuesday, just for a few minutes, but, ooohhh man, what beautiful music. Few more details to finish, stator, regulator need repalced, finish clearing a few peices....
Will post finished product pics soon.
Rodney
03-21-2008, 06:29 AM
[sm=smiley31.gif][sm=smiley20.gif]
shovel4me4ever
03-25-2008, 09:35 AM
Awrite folks. There's some weird mojo, bad juju sh*t goin on with this bike. [:@]
Bike should have been finished last Saturday. As of the last post three peices needed final coats of clear and the bike was essentially done; the left tank, belt guard and dash cover. Well, my bud sprays them and the clear freaks. It runs like water and leaves white streaks. He tries to sand those out but they are down into the paint. So, we strip the parts back down to bare metal and start over. Paint goes on no problem. Then on Friday, he's carrying the tank across his garage to hang it to clear it and it slips out of his hand and bounces across the floor leaving three nice dents. So, after he calms down, he strips all the paint off again and bondos the small dents. Next day he sprays primer and it all dries except for where it covers one of the bondo spots?!?!?! When I last talked to him Saturday night, he was puting everything aside to forget about it and enjoy his Easter.
Don't know WTF is goin on. Neither of us are pro painters, but we're talking to some people to try to figure it out. Say some prayers formy bud and mybike. Prayers chase the bad mojo away. :D
Rodney
03-25-2008, 09:58 AM
Explain to me more about the painting issues you are having.
what kind and brand of paint and clear.
what type and model spray gun are you using
what air pressure at the gun are you spraying the clear
what temp reducer
what kind of hardener
are you mixing your paints primers and clears enough {I shake my paints a clear on a paint shaker for several minutes or stir stir and stir some more.
is the painting area AND the surface at least 65 degrees f. {most failures are due to this}
is your air supply clean.
are you giving sufficient flash time between coats.
I can't help you with your painter being clumsy
[sm=icon_guiness.gif]don't do this until after your painting is done then [sm=icon_cheers.gif]
shovel4me4ever
03-25-2008, 01:00 PM
Hey Rodney, thanks for the response. I'l have to get back to the guy's place to see what brand of paint we're using, but it's quality auto refinishing base coat/ clear coat paint. We have 60 and 70 degree reducers for the paint and clear. And, the paint, clear, hardener and reducer are a "refinishing system" all designed to work together. The guy is a fanatic about keeping his equipment clean, so I doubt that's the problem. Air supply clean. Mixing everything well.
As for the [sm=icon_guiness.gif], I wasn't there when it happened so.... :)
The parts had been painted and 4 coats of clear laid on a week before the incident happened (we work 7 on and 7 off and he's doin this on our days off) so flash time was not the issue.
We're pretty sure that the temperature was the culprit in the instance of the clear goin to hell on us. It started off in the 50s that morning and warmed up to about 72. What we didn't realize was that the parts were still cold even thought the air temp was over 70. Many other parts had already been completed by this point. The flucuations in temp are the only difference we can see from the parts that came out great.
This guy has rebuilt the entire bike and hasn't charged me a dime. He's doing it just b/c he wants the bike to be as nice as it can be and he knows I don't have the money or skills to do it all myself.He's still learning about painting,so there ain't nothin wrong with lettin keep tryin til he gets this stumblin block figured out.
Rodney
03-25-2008, 01:49 PM
Its the style of gun I was asking about, the new clears are not designed to be hosed on I use ONLY HVLP guns low air pressure high volume some clears are more forgiving than others when applying.
you may be surprised if you took the surface temp of the parts before spraying I use one of those hand held pyrometers or Non-Contact Infrared Digital Thermometers before I paint if the conditions are questionable I am always surprised @ how wrong I am when I guess what the temp is of what I am painting.
In any of our Clears we use 4 coats are doomed to failure if not immediately down the road due to high film build the paint will chip easy and can give the color a yellow cast. Really bad if your matching a color to blend.
you guys will figure it out just keep at it. ;)
Rodney
03-25-2008, 02:06 PM
one other thing now that I read you post again:
it's the flash time betweens coats of clear {hopefully its being all sprayed in one session} the clear should just start to "string" when you touch an area not critical like apiece that has been masked.
when you pull your finger off the wet clear if it just slides the clear it to wet for another coat.
if it is dry to the touch you are setting your self up for trouble because you are now trapping solvents in the bottom coats if you do this on 4 coats of clear "Man" I don't know what would happen??
When urethane clear is ready for another coat as you touch and pull your finger away you should see the clear string and stick to your finger and the panel and see little hairs or strings of clear in between.
It takes more than a paint job or 2 to figure out all that it to do a paint job correctly. Even with ideal conditions and years of experience it can be a challenge at times.
one other other thing, for the most part the guys selling the product don't paint they just sell the stuff I have seen many times the paint someone buys and take the word of the salesman and has trouble has the wrong paint for the application and conditions the paint is being applied in.
and if you ask one painter how to paint you will more than likely get a different answer than the next one If they will even talk to you.
good luck
shovel4me4ever
03-26-2008, 10:15 AM
Rodney. Thank you for sharing all this valuable knowledge with us.
If I understand you correctly, with urethane clear, 4 coats is about max and all coats should be sprayed in one session with theclear being stringy/tacky between each coat? I will passall this infoon. Holy crap dude, we were going as long as a week between coats of clear.
We just got back to work yesterday so it will be at least a week from yesterday before we get to try anything again. I'll update when I have new info.
Again, dude, thank you for your help.
Rodney
03-26-2008, 04:21 PM
I don't see any advantage to spraying the clear as you are doing it. Hopefully you were wet sanding the clear between coats with 800 grit wet of finer.
the urethanes products I have used for years all recommend 2 coats for proper build thickness.
build thickness is Dependant on spray equipment, technique how the spray gun is adjusted air pressure ect. 3-5 mils are what I try to reach when spraying clear about the thickness of a dollar bill. maybe a little thicker that that but not much. this give a durable top coat that will last for years if taken care of.
you HAVE to have the proper build thickness for the chemicals to lock up correctly and the product to cure and dry.
You are also playing Russian roulette when re coating urethane this can create the paint to create a reaction and wrinkle but this generally only happens if:
1. you cut through the clear you are spraying over or
2. you are spraying more base coat over the fresh clear
I've enjoyed helping you since I have been sitting home with the Flu I really don't have anything else to do but watch TV and goof around on my laptop.
one other thing that is not taken seriously enough is washing the surface your painting with the proper solvents before painting to remove contaminants that will cause more failures.
it a pinch you can use windex before tacking off the surface.
shovel4me4ever
03-27-2008, 02:52 PM
Well, hate to say I'm glad you're home sick, but.............:)
Yes, he is sanding and cleaning VERY thoroughly between coats if it has sat for a while between coats. We had a discussion last night about how many coats was too many and will be using fewer coats when he resprays the clear on the parts.
The weahter down here has finally come around to early spring type temps. High 60's in the AM and high 70's/ low 80's in the PM with moderate humidity. We should have beter luck with that kind of weather and your advice.
Any ideas on why the primer wouldn't over just that one small spot of bondo? The tank was stripped to bare metal, very small amount ofbondo applied to 3 small dings and allowed to cure for couple hours, bondo sanded down, tank sanded and cleaned, primer sprayed on. Within 20 minutes the primer dried everywhere but one one of the bondoed areas. That spot was still tacky a coupole hours later!!
Thanks a bunch, and get well soon!!
Rodney
03-27-2008, 04:31 PM
what kind of primer are you using?
if you are using an etching primer that will do it! the acids will eat into the plastic and cause all sorts of strange things.
no h2o on the plastic ya also don't wash the plastic before primer blow dry and wipe with clean cloth. plastics are absorbent like a sponge and hold what ever may contaminate paints and primer, sometime days and even weeks later I'm sure you've seen bubbles in paint jobs not done correctly thats one cause.
clean with appropriate solvents for the area.
this is how I paint in a nut shell
have all plastic finished with 180 dry
bare metal 180 to 220 dry
etch primer on bare metal only {very important}
prime with appropriate primers for what your doing.
if fill prime let it dry and wet sand with 400 wet inspect for defects like poor body work pin holes ect.
after sanded clean tac and seal with primer intended for sealing. only a coat not any more than that just for coverage.
let flash off until you can tac it off then tac
spray base coat One COAT AT A TIME let flash between coats and tac between coats if needed.
After you get coverage you can let the base dry a few hours or over night and lightly sand with 800 wet and re coat with more base.
let the base flash
now clear 2 coats 3 if you really think its necessary and plan on cutting and buffing.
do the clear all in one session as I described earlier.
don't re coat the clear unless you absolutely need to you aren't gaining anything that I can see by sanding and adding more coats. Get the clear on correctly the first time and leave it alone to cure.
it takes 70 degrees + for the urethane to lock up chemically.
this is how I've painted for years with PPG global and other ppg products.
good equipment, lighting and exhaust fan to evacuate the spray area are important for a successful job.
also take care not to breath the paint fumes as they are harmful to your lungs they also absorb in to your body through your eyes and skin.
you should have better luck this time, live and learn :eek:
glad someone is benefiting from me being sick [X(]
shovel4me4ever
03-30-2008, 12:28 AM
HEy Rodney,
Sorry for the delay in replying but I'm at work this week and got busy. Thanks for the Schoolin in paint and body and the words of encouragement. I will pass all thison to SOBB. Will update Tuesday or Wednesday after we get to work on it more.
Rodney
03-30-2008, 12:46 PM
keep is posted and lets see some images of the bike painted and back together.
kiwidave2
04-20-2008, 07:27 AM
wow....fascinating restoration read. thanks for posting, and keep doing so!
If you are interested.......as I am also very keen on the 1983 FXDG.....I could send you scans of the late 1982 edition of H-D's The Enthusiast mag which had the only factory-written article about that bike, and also the1982 article in Iron Horse magazine **written** byWillie G in which he describes how thebike came into being.
Saw a mint example at Daytona Harley-Davidson at their old site in 1997...it washanging over the entrance door. Naturally
the guy behind the parts counter had no idea what model it was. It is prob still on display in their new superstore.
There is one FXDG in England and it was profiled in a UK Harley mag last year.
Hope you have better luck in coming weeks... and hey, I might also be able to give you a very off-the-wall parts source to try for that badge you so desperately want.
Dave
dave85fxef@yahoo.com
BensWillieG
04-28-2008, 05:59 PM
I have not seen any updated pics in a while from your refurbishing of the FXDG. It looks like you are doing a good job.
I just purchased an 83 FXFDG. My uncle bought it new in 83 but it has been out of the family for about 20 years. I bought it sight unseen from the family friend that owns it. I remember taking rides on the bike in 1987 with my dad. I have not seen it since 1988 when I was 10. I am picking it up in a couple of weeks. The pictures and details everybody is posting is getting me pumped up. Info is hard to find and pictures even more difficult. The bike is supposed to be original (except for the carb), and in great shape. It has 12,000 miles on it (I don't know if this is good or not). I am going to do my best to get it mint condition. Any help would be appreciated. I will start another post and get some pictures up when I pick the bike up.
BensWillieG
04-28-2008, 09:49 PM
Sorry, I meant 83 FXDG
shovel4me4ever
05-18-2008, 01:24 AM
Hey everyone,
Thanks for your interest and accept my apologies for my long absence. The bike is home and finished except for a few bugs to shake out. I've put about 100 miles on it. LOVE the BDL enclosed belt drive. Super smooth, great action, and zero drag. You can actually feel the fact that it's lighter and puts less inertia into the rotating assemblies. The Andrews A/B cam really woke the old girl up too. I've got the kick start sequence just about figured out. I can usually kick it to life within 3 kicks, even cold.
To explain my absence....the weird mojo thing just kept throwing so much at me (including finding out that the last batch of clear I bought was bad &having a strap pop in transport so that it fell and dented the right side tank). I finally just put the bike in the corner and left it alone for about five weeks. I didn't want to think about the thing. Anyway, I will post pics tomorrow, promise.
I am really happy with how it turned out. Another big thanks to SOBB for all his work. they say it's the details that make the difference and he missed none. Also, thanks again Rodney. We would never have gotten the paint finished without your input.
shovel4me4ever
05-19-2008, 01:08 AM
Here it is. Mostly finished except for a few touches. And, of course, it will need a new right side fuel tank. I'm cleaning up the pouches so I can hang those soon and still sorting some starter alignment and tune issues and other little things..... But these old bikes are never really done, are they?
That's a CV from an early 90's Evo behind the Screamin eagle air cleaner. As funds permit, I will try to fit a factory ham can and original carb or a ham can on a S&S.
Special thanks to my beautiful wife for #1 putting up with the "Evil Bitch" and#2 taking these great pics. This engine close up reminds me of something out of those coffee table picture books. I love that shot.
Looking damn good! I am just starting a resto on an FXDG I picked up over the winter. The owner thought it was just a regular FXWG and had stripped it down and replaced most of the original stuff with chrome and garbage, including all badging, back wheel, and a garage paint job. I didn't realize what I had just bought until I ran the VIN. With so few of theseout there I have to restore it. I've pretty much given up on finding the pouches. Probably going to have some dupes made. If you could post some pics of the pouches it would be appreciated. If anyone out there has any extra parts available I AM IN NEED and HAVE CA$H.