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Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/25/2008 9:32:17 AM   
ChiefGator


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Yesterday I noticed my exhaust note changing, so I stopped and saw that the bolt was working it's way out. That is strange because I have locking bolts in there. I take her the rest of the way home and tighten her up... I'll be damned if it is not stripped out, inside the head... @#%$&!!!

So, my questions are:

Will a heli-coil work? Would the dissimilar metals cause an issue with the heat and expansion rates of the steel coil and the aluminum head?

I am assuming that the vibration caused it to strip out, but WTF?
Did the locking bolt contribute to the stripping? Would I have been better off using a regular bolt and red locktite and keep an eye on it?

Pretty annoyed...... I have a long weekend planned with my wife as I am headed outta town next week for 2 weeks... I am sure I will have it fixed by then, but I hate that I just got her up and going and now this..... I guess that is why they are called troubleheads!



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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/25/2008 9:45:13 AM   
extech

 

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I've used heli-coil kits but eventually they'll strip out too. Look for something called a time-sert, it's like a threaded bung, you drill the stripped hole to size and thread the hole and install the sert. These work much better than the heli-coils do.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/25/2008 11:20:00 AM   
DeJavu


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If what you call a locking bolt is a triangular rather than round threaded end, yes it would be more likely to strip out(not as much contact on threads, soft aluminum heads). If you don't have one piece 2 into 1 pipes(won't fit over studs), consider using a threaded insert and a stud rather than a bolt. I don't recommend using red loctite on anything going into alum. If you ever have to remove it you will take a lot of alum with it. Blue Loctite is better for alum threads. I use nylock nuts on my Evo exh studs, you'd think they'd melt, but don't and retain well.
IMHO insert+stud+nylock nut, should be bulletproof.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/25/2008 11:22:32 AM   
Rodney


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 I've used those too it didn't work in my spark plug hole the aluminum was to old and fatigued and when I used the seating tool to crimp the nut zert in the head it destroyed what threads that were left in the head.
you can also drill and tap to 3/8 and install a stepped 3/8 to 5/16 and install the stud. I have had great success doing this. One thing I have found guys doing when installing bolts in holes that bottom out is using to long a bolt, this will pull the threads out of aluminum in a heart beat.


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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/25/2008 11:38:17 AM   
ChiefGator


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The locking bolt that I had was a regular round threaded bolt with a Half Moon washer that slid over the head of the both that prevents it from turning. It is held in place by a standard C clip.

I think I may have to go with the stud. I am gonna stop in and talk to my Indy to see what he says too.

Thanx for the advice guys.

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As a dreamer of dreams and a travelin'' man, I have chalked up many miles...

Read dozens of books about heroes and crooks, and I learned much from both of their styles...

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/26/2008 6:15:29 PM   
ChiefGator


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Back on the road!

Ended up not putting in a stud. The FLT has a really goofy angle on all the pipes and it looked like it would be a real pain in the pooper to get the pipes over the stud.

Went with a standard bolt and if it works out, I will tighten it. Way better than stripping out the head again.

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As a dreamer of dreams and a travelin'' man, I have chalked up many miles...

Read dozens of books about heroes and crooks, and I learned much from both of their styles...

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 3/27/2008 8:39:49 AM   
alwaysarider

 

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I checked my bolts last night - looked like a normal washer was used with it. Come to find out it was a split washer (locking) that had just flattened, probably from the heat and maybe it was a lower temp metal. I replaced it with a newer split washer, and we'll see how it goes.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/6/2008 7:36:00 AM   
southphillyed

 

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Some time ago,when I had a panhead....I ran an additional clamp off the front pipe to the frame.This did the trick but it required my having to fabricate the clamp and bracket going to the front down tube.......I would imagine you could do the same with your shovel!
That front pipe never came loose again!!LOL.......And I always use high temp(black) silicone seal on the business end of the pipe (going into the head)

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/7/2008 7:11:44 AM   
bc40ton

 

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Tell me more about the black silicone sealing the exhaust going into the head. Is it the same stuff as in the toothpaste type tubes in the auto store? With those cheesy thin gaskets I keep gettin I could use some extra sealing help. I wouldnt think the silicone would hold up to the 700 deg or so temps or does it? Thanks.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/7/2008 7:52:15 AM   
Rodney


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Heres some any good parts store should have it.
Thing is to let it fully cure before you run the engine. I've done this for years and have had great success with it for sealing the pipes. As mentioned some where else be sure the pipe is secure with mounts to the frame lower down on the pipes and they they are doing the job correctly. 

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/11/2008 10:06:46 AM   
silvergoldsmith


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Did my heads exhaust bolts back in '85. I went to 5/16"x24 heli-coil and drilled the bolt heads for safty wire. They have never come loose since.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/11/2008 10:50:24 AM   
kin boyd

 

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bc40ton
I have a 1982 FLH, running a 93 Inch S&S. I get the best sealing results using Evo. wiremesh gaskets (The thin ones). Slide them over the header pipes and throw the ShovelHead gaskets in the trash.

kin. 

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/14/2008 10:53:46 PM   
ARBY


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A heili-coil won't last for long best bet is to have the holes welded, drilled and re-threaded. Oh, and despite what some might tell you, this CAN be done without removing the heads. You just have to be or know a good welder.

When you do get them fixed, DO NOT use bolts on your pipes. Use a stud and two locking nuts. Aluminum threads can not take the pressure from steel bolts being threaded in too many times. That's why they came loose in the first place.

Arby 

< Message edited by ARBY -- 4/15/2008 8:51:02 PM >


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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/24/2008 12:46:20 AM   
silvergoldsmith


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Heli_coils won't last, what do you call 20+ years? If you do them right they sure seem to last for me. I did both heads on the engine and have done them for others.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/24/2008 6:49:24 AM   
Rodney


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I have one {heli coil} in my front head {5/16} been there for years when that goes away it's time to over size to the 3/8 to 5/16 stud. I feel the secret is to, if at all possible use a stud in the hole and not over work the threads in the head.
I've had a welder try and weld the exhaust stud hole once {maybe he didn't know the trick} but it didn't work out as he said trying to weld a small hole its difficult to get a good weld down in the hole. He was right the weld was porous and would not hold a tread. He said the best fix was to cut that chuck out of the head and weld a completely new piece of aluminum in and drill and tap that. thats when we went with the 3/8 stud.
I know from experience one thing that destroys threads more that anything is to use too long a "bolt", it bottoms out in the hole and with aluminum you wouldn't realize your pulling the threads out of the hole until its to late.
Also using acorn nuts that bottom out on studs lock to the stud and then when removing the nut pulls the stud out. Dam I hate that. 

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/24/2008 9:22:15 AM   
FastHarley


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Pull it & put in a thread lock.  This goes by many different names but do a search and the subject has been discussed many times.  Lots of great info there.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 4/26/2008 6:42:40 AM   
72fl


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heli-coil works for me i also have lock bolts that don't work themselves out.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 5/2/2008 11:43:04 PM   
81shovelriderdavid

 

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Here is what I did after the heli coil pulled out. I dilled and re taped the hole it is working for now.  I also discovered that there is alot of vibration in the rear pipe about 7 inches down from the head. So I created a braket out of a combo of chevy and harley parts.  Clamped the middle of the pipe monted it to the exhust mount on the side of the trans.  That way if the head bolt dose disapear.  It has happened.  The exhaust will not move away from the head creatating a dying shovel.  Oh this is on an 81 FLT.  My next thing is new heads.  I have fought the temptation of just welding the things on and forgetting about it.  This may still be an option(last resort).  One other thing lock tite no matter what color did not stand up to the heat.  Neither did jb weld.  At least not on my bike.  I did use evo gaskets and they work very well.  It takes a little patients to get them installed but it is worth it.

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RE: Stripped Exhaust Threads - 5/3/2008 5:46:54 PM   
silvergoldsmith


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The primary cause of thread failure is over torgue. According to heli-coil these people are all called Tommy Over Torgue. Other causes-rust and corrosion or mismatched threads.

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