Has anyone made a isolator kit from parts or know how to do it ? I have trouble keeping large amounts of money saved up to spend on my bike. So I was wanting to know about building the isolator for the lights on my trailer. I had a friend of mine give me a hitch to put on my 07 FLHTC. So that part is took care of. If I was to change to leds on my trailer would that still have the load to fry my wires. Thanks for any help MDodson

Buy one on ebay for $29 bucks and plug it in. Or go to the auto parts and get one. The best way in my opinion is powered.

If is was to splice in before the plug that goes to the taillights and unplg the lights on the bike . Would that not still be the same load on the system. I can't find a isolator for 29 dollars on ebay

Will this part here work. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220222498672&ssPageNam e=MERC_VI_RSCC_Pr12_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=2201 95016515&itemcount=12&refwidgetloc=active_view_ite m&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross _promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m184&_trkparms=algo%3D DR%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252B SI%26otn%3D12

According to the seller.......

"You are bidding on a Brand NewTow ReadyModulite Power Modulemade by Cequent. Part # 118146. Cequent is the parent company for Reese, Draw-Tite, and Hidden Hitch. Trailer light power modules virtually eliminates additional electrical draw on the vehicle's taillight circuits, ensures maximum trailer light brightness, powers the trailer's stop, turn, tail and running lights without overloading vehicle electrical systems and eliminates the need for heavy duty flashers."

Keystone....

Is that a Yes or a No?

The device will work, but I don't know if that
one will fit you bike or not. It is a simular
device to the one Kuryakn sells.

LEDs draw almost no current, so if you change over you will not need to worry about load. The down side it that they will probably cost more than the module.

I already have LEDs from a kit I bought from the trailer I have built before. Is that where the problems come from is the load that the lights put on the small wires they use building our bikes? This sitehas a lot ofgreat members to help me. Thanks MDodson

I used LEDs on my trailer without a isolater and the turn signals blink fine (not fast after I unplug the trailer) The lights are bright and work fine. Of course Im risking screwing something up if theres a short......

from what i see that is a lot like the one i purchased for 45$ but keep in mind that you still have to tie into your wiring somewhere,somehow. that is what makes the kayuraka? kit so nice it's a direct plug between that's right under your seat. other's you will have to splice, or use the line connectors that leave your wiring harness cut? not sure if cut is the right use, but you will have to break the wires protective cover to get in and make the connection.

I built an isolation device for my old Caravan when I used to pull my camper with it. Went to the U-Pull-It junkyard and got a handfull of relays. Needed 4 of them (LT/Stop, RT/Stop, Marker, Backup). Had some of the 4 colored wire left over from rewiring my utility trailer. Bought a length of 10ga power wire, a fuse holder, and some spade connectors.

Works really well, and I further modified it by putting a relay inline of the power feed so I could turn it off the feed if I didn't need it.

Look around for the best price on a Hoppy 46255 isolator, then get it. It's $59.95 right now on amazon.com, maybe you could find it cheaper somewhere else. I doubt you could homebrew one for less once you include the time and hassle.